the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

cletus

.red. wrote: »

I didn't want to start a new thread and figured it was (kind of) maintanence related.
I got handed a set of pedals when I bought my bike second hand.
I'm now half thinking of keeping an eye out for a cheap pair of shoes to see how I go with them.
Are these pedals any good for someone who's never used clipless before?

They are similar to the first clipless pedals I used. I didn't get them because they were better for someone who hadn't used them before, but because they are MTB pedals (spd pedals), and I wanted to be able to walk relatively normally in the shoes.

Short answer, they'll be fine to start out in, just make sure you get spd shoes, not spd-sl shoes

Bluejohn1

If I was to buy a new wheelset (Aksium Disc CL 28" Wheel Set) and I wanted to make it as easy/quick as possible to switch between both sets. Is this everything I need to purchase to do so.

- Wheelset
- 105 cassette
- SM-RT30 Center-Lock Disc Rotor x 2
- Centerlock Adapter SM-RTAD05 x 2
- Additional thru axle x 2

I have a cube nuroad race 2019.

gaffmaster

Bluejohn1 wrote: »

If I was to buy a new wheelset (Aksium Disc CL 28" Wheel Set) and I wanted to make it as easy/quick as possible to switch between both sets. Is this everything I need to purchase to do so.

- Wheelset
- 105 cassette
- SM-RT30 Center-Lock Disc Rotor x 2
- Centerlock Adapter SM-RTAD05 x 2
- Additional thru axle x 2

I have a cube nuroad race 2019.

I'm open to correction but I don't think you'd need either of the following, since the wheels are already the Centre Lock standard.

- Centerlock Adapter SM-RTAD05 x 2
- Additional thru axle x 2

You don't need the additional thru axles because they stay on the bike - it's not like quick releases where it's very handy to have another set as they stay on the wheels at all times. Some things to be sure of:

Get the same diameter rotors as your current wheel set (usually 160mm for road bikes - but double check).

Check thru axle diameter - almost definitely 12mm road standard on both wheels.

You'll need tyres and tubes if the Mavic wheels don't come with them (sometimes they come as a set).

Bluejohn1

gaffmaster wrote: »

I'm open to correction but I don't think you'd need either of the following, since the wheels are already the Centre Lock standard.

- Centerlock Adapter SM-RTAD05 x 2
- Additional thru axle x 2

You don't need the additional thru axles because they stay on the bike - it's not like quick releases where it's very handy to have another set as they stay on the wheels at all times. Some things to be sure of:

Get the same diameter rotors as your current wheel set (usually 160mm for road bikes - but double check).

Check thru axle diameter - almost definitely 12mm road standard on both wheels.

You'll need tyres and tubes if the Mavic wheels don't come with them (sometimes they come as a set).

Forgot about the tubes! Have additional tyres and wanted to keep the trainer tyre on the old set of wheels for indoor use. Yeah the rotors are 160mm from having a quick look at the spec of the bike. Probably don't need the thru axles also.

Think you're right also about not needing the centerlock adapter. Took the wheel off and the rotors seem to come with the lockring.

One other question. I noticed the recommended max tyre size for the Aksium Disc CL is 32mm. the inner width fo the rim is 17mm. While the current wheelset on my cube is 21mm. Would I get away with marathon supremes which are 37-622 or even my g-ones which I think measure on the rim at 40mm once inflated.

Roberto_gas

cletus wrote: »

They just look like manufacturing marks to me, I'd say they're fine

Marks are fine i meant the cracks

Roberto_gas

Type 17 wrote: »

True, just the edge of the material that is glued/moulded into the tyre carcass to protect the carcass from excessive wear from the rim.

I was referring to the hair line cracks on tyres.

cletus

Roberto_gas wrote: »

Marks are fine i meant the cracks

You obviously have a better view of the tyres than me, but they don't look like cracks to me, they look like marks left from the manufacturing process.

If you deflate the tyre and put pressure on the tread so as to deform the sidewall, do the marks/cracks become wider? Can you take a picture of them like that?

gaffmaster

Tyres are probably the most consumable 'consumable' on a bike. The perishability of the tyre is dependant on so many factors including how you store the bike, the surfaces you ride on, the conditions etc, and the mileage.

Most bikes come with cheaper tyres and almost always, you won't get any sort of warranty with tyres since they're so prone to wear and tear.

If I were you, I would take this opportunity to upgrade the tyres to something that suits you and your riding conditions for the next six months or so. Hold on to the ones that came with your bike in case you suffer a bad puncture on your new ones (ripped sidewall or something). Nice tyres can transform the ride quality, too.

wheelo01

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

They're the same as the Fulcrum 6, theyre just OE spec wheel for factory bikes.

If they use the same bearings as the Fulcrum 5 (which they probably do as I believe its the 4 and lower that use cup/cone and all above use cartridge bearings) then the bearings in your wheels will be marked 61903 but they're not, they are actually 18307's with 61903's seals. Don't buy ridiculously expensive fulcrum bearings thinking they're proprietary as they're not, just buy 18307's.

Its very simple to change the front wheel bearings. Watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jsyYlj9cdcM

I walked into a couple of bike shops today, and they looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for 18307 bearings, and after much searching on the internet, one found them, but could take up to a week to get here.
1. is there an easier option, or is this the norm?
2. Would these be useful to have as spares? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32739268958.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b404c4dpQg6io

cletus wrote: »

I have disc brakes. I think they are working right. I can pull skids with them. Can you pull skids?

I had the need to do an emergency stop due to a goon in the traffic lane giving way, but the driver never looked to see if anything was in the Bus/cycle lane (me) - the good news is I stopped with a bit of a skid, the bad news is that the levers were almost touching the bars - is that the normal position, or do I need them adjusted?

Type 17

wheelo01 wrote: »

I walked into a couple of bike shops today, and they looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for 18307 bearings, and after much searching on the internet, one found them, but could take up to a week to get here.
1. is there an easier option, or is this the norm?
2. Would these be useful to have as spares? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32739268958.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b404c4dpQg6io

Call Reliance Bearing in west Dublin (or Cork or Limerick), and see if they have them in stock - if you're close to there, you can call out to them, or they'll send them to you for extra cost.

The Chinese bearings are cheap, but bike wheel bearings are a bit of a pain to change, so I'd be more inclined to pay for better quality ones, and have to change them less often. Ask Reliance about the different quality versions that they stock, with the emphasis on ones that keep moisture out best.

Cee-Jay-Cee

wheelo01 wrote: »

I walked into a couple of bike shops today, and they looked at me like I had three heads when I asked for 18307 bearings, and after much searching on the internet, one found them, but could take up to a week to get here.
1. is there an easier option, or is this the norm?
2. Would these be useful to have as spares? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32739268958.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b404c4dpQg6io

My LBS had them in stock, they referred to them as Trek bearings but they were Enduro bearings.

I have previously bought bearings from BearingKing.co.uk

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/products.php?search=18307

The only problem with bearings from AliExpress is that you could be waiting anywhere from. 4 to 12 weeks for them to arrive.

wheelo01

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

My LBS had them in stock, they referred to them as Trek bearings but they were Enduro bearings.

I have previously bought bearings from BearingKing.co.uk

https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/products.php?search=18307

The only problem with bearings from AliExpress is that you could be waiting anywhere from. 4 to 12 weeks for them to arrive.

Thanks again for your patience.
I have searched a crowd from Tullamore too, they have the 61903 listed, not the other 18307, however they seem reasonably priced in comparison, is there one of these that is more/less suitable?

https://www.bearingsonline.ie/index.php?route=product/search&search=61903#/sort=p.sort_order/order=ASC/limit=50

darconio

Hi All
would anybody be able to advise what kind of replacement BB I would need for this bike?

https://www.cube.eu/en/2017/hardtail/ltd/cube-ltd-pro-2x-blackline-2017/

In the specs it says Pressfit BB, but doesn't mention the model
I have a Shimano Deore XT M8000 Crankset if that helps.

Also would I need a removal tool like this to replace the old one?

Is there a corresponding BB that would fit the above bike/crankset but that can be screwed in rather than press-fit?

Thargor

I need something I can use as 20mm black bar end plugs while I wait for replacements to come on the slow boat from China, someone must have had this problem before? Give me a simple solution I havent thought of please, its driving me mad looking at the holes.

Type 17

Wine corks?

cletus

Thargor wrote: »

I need something I can use as 20mm black bar end plugs while I wait for replacements to come on the slow boat from China, someone must have had this problem before? Give me a simple solution I havent thought of please, its driving me mad looking at the holes.

I might have a spare push on plastic set here, if you want them

Thargor

cletus wrote: »

I might have a spare push on plastic set here, if you want them

Ah thanks for that but I wont put you to the trouble, I have 10 generics on the way just wondering about a stopgap, Ill have a look in all the junk drawers at work tomorrow and get something.

cletus

In that case, wine corks seem to be the DIY go to

Cee-Jay-Cee

wheelo01 wrote: »

Thanks again for your patience.
I have searched a crowd from Tullamore too, they have the 61903 listed, not the other 18307, however they seem reasonably priced in comparison, is there one of these that is more/less suitable?

https://www.bearingsonline.ie/index.php?route=product/search&search=61903#/sort=p.sort_order/order=ASC/limit=50

No they’re all 19mm ID which is too big.

LK bikes in Letterkenny have them for €9 each or get them from bearingKing in the UK. Plenty of them on eBay too.

http://www.lkbikes.com/

8valve

Thargor wrote: »

I need something I can use as 20mm black bar end plugs while I wait for replacements to come on the slow boat from China, someone must have had this problem before? Give me a simple solution I havent thought of please, its driving me mad looking at the holes.

Pared down wine corks for the l'eroica vibe.


Personally, I use spent shotgun cartridges*:P




*always check the cartridge is spent before tapping it into the handlebar end with a hammer:cool:

Flaccus

Recently went tubeless. LBS cranked the valve lock nuts as they said tire would leak air otherwise even though every video I've seen says to put them on finger tight. Sure enough they were right as I took one lock nut off tonight as they stripped the finish off it tightening it. Fancy lock nuts indeed. As soon as I loosened it a turn or two air starting gushing. Replaced with a nice new one finger tight, pumped back up and air is holding. Will see in morning.

My question is this. If the lock nut is stopping air leaking doesn't that mean there is an issue somewhere else. Perhaps tire not seated correctly around the base of the valve inside the rim or maybe a shoddy rim tape job where they didn't overlap. Or is the lock nut's purpose to seal the rim ? Is this a problem ? New rims so I'd have to get them to inspect and possibly redo the rim tape job if it is.

CramCycle

Have a Shimano 600 crankset on a friends bike but the BB is shot. I presume a regular square taper Shimano BB will do. I also presume it will be 68 x 113.

Type 17

CramCycle wrote: »

Have a Shimano 600 crankset on a friends bike but the BB is shot. I presume a regular square taper Shimano BB will do. I also presume it will be 68 x 113.

If the crankset works ok on the bike, and the shifting is good (other than issues because of the worn-out BB), then the same BB will be fine.

CramCycle

Type 17 wrote: »

If the crankset works ok on the bike, and the shifting is good (other than issues because of the worn-out BB), then the same BB will be fine.

The BB in it is an original Shimano 600 one, so I ain't coughing up the cash for that. I should have had a ruler but didn't so hopefully my punt on 113 will pay off. Now to figure out if I have the tools lying around to take the old one off

Type 17

If it's an old-style cup-and-cone one, then migrating to a cheaper cassette one is better (unless it's a super-original collector's bike). Once the measurements are the same, it will work fine, and will be more durable, but will weigh a few grams more.

CramCycle

Type 17 wrote: »

If it's an old-style cup-and-cone one, then migrating to a cheaper cassette one is better (unless it's a super-original collector's bike). Once the measurements are the same, it will work fine, and will be more durable, but will weigh a few grams more.

It belonged to his Dad who passed so as a bike it is worth more than anything to him, and he is using it every day as his preferred bike. Its a decent bike and his Dad competed on it years ago. I was more friends with his Dad than him so just want to make sure I do it right but got caught on the hop as I was passing so didn't take all the measurements I should have. He doesn't want to use a LBS as he wants to learn how to do everything himself, again as a point of pride. I'll get him to measure the BB width later, just to confirm but I think once it works it will be all he wants. Thanks for all the help.

JMcL

8valve wrote: »

Pared down wine corks for the l'eroica vibe.:

But that leads onto further decisions: Cork oneupmanship - do I get a pair of Tignanello corks and make sure the name is visible or will a pair from Rotgut Creek do fine ? Stained side inside the bar or facing out?

8valve

JMcL wrote: »

But that leads onto further decisions: Cork oneupmanship - do I get a pair of Tignanello corks and make sure the name is visible or will a pair from Rotgut Creek do fine ? Stained side inside the bar or facing out?

Stained side in, naturally....:D


As for choice of cork, anything from northern Italy should be perfectly acceptable;)


Unless the bike is French, then you've got a massive choice of regions.


Needing two plugs is an excellent excuse for drinking two bottles over the weekend........or both, tonight.......hic!:D

Thargor

Asked in Mountain Biking but Ill ask here aswell:

On mudguards of this type:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Mountain-Bike-Mudguard-MTB-Front-Rear-Wings-Bicycle-Fenders-Mud-Guards-Set/293694185978?hash=item446189a1fa:g:z6YAAOSwfOlfOi~Y

For the front ones, is friction all that holds it in place when you push the adapter piece in the middle up into the hole in the fork and tighten the hex nut to make it expand? Does that work or will it fall out the minute you go over some rough terrain? The instructions for these ones see to imply thats the case:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TAGVO-Mudguard-Parts-Universal-Mountain-Adjustable/dp/B08723BYDC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3OVRD34RI4AN0&dchild=1&keywords=mud+guards+for+mountain+bike+set&qid=1601664238&sprefix=mud%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-5

TychoCaine

Thargor wrote: »

Asked in Mountain Biking but Ill ask here aswell:

On mudguards of this type:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-Mountain-Bike-Mudguard-MTB-Front-Rear-Wings-Bicycle-Fenders-Mud-Guards-Set/293694185978?hash=item446189a1fa:g:z6YAAOSwfOlfOi~Y

For the front ones, is friction all that holds it in place when you push the adapter piece in the middle up into the hole in the fork and tighten the hex nut to make it expand? Does that work or will it fall out the minute you go over some rough terrain? The instructions for these ones see to imply thats the case:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TAGVO-Mudguard-Parts-Universal-Mountain-Adjustable/dp/B08723BYDC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3OVRD34RI4AN0&dchild=1&keywords=mud+guards+for+mountain+bike+set&qid=1601664238&sprefix=mud%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-5

If you clean the inside of the fork and tighten the hex nut enough it'll stay in place. It's the same principle as a quill stem.