Questions Regarding the Wiring of Alarm System

FatBeard

Hi guys, I have a few questions regarding my installation.

1. With the SPC 4320 and the Aritec 613, do I need when wiring two or three sensors in series on one zone to include a resistor in each sensor in addition to the end of line resistor. The Wiring diagram in the manual seems to suggest this but it's not 100% clear to me.
2. Is it necessary to wire a tamper loop. Again the manual seems to suggest here that the tamper loop is part of the standard wiring above above and that there is no separate loop for the tamper. I have looked at some of the pdf wiring diagrams on the forum but they are all related to the hkc. But maybe the wiring is similar for most alarm panels.
3. Can I wire the key pad directly to the control panel without using an expander. I assume I can but the manual only gives examples of where there is an expander in between the keypad and panel.
4. For both the electrical wiring to the panel, and the wiring to the keyboard, is it ok for the cable to be seen running along the wall or should the cable run be hidden behind the dry lining. I'm merely talking about the 4 inches between the electrical spur and the panel, and the 4 inches to the keypad also. While my system won't conform to ENXXXX guidelines, i'd like to have the quality of the install to meet them at least.
   
5. With the 613 sensor, does the sensor have to be facing out from the window or could i install it with the side of the sensor facing out from the window?
   
6. Continuing from the point above does the magnet have to be directly next to sensor. I'd like to make the sensor installation as neat as possible. The only way i can do this is by making sensor face sideways while the magnet faces outwards.

KoolKid

1) No, you can wire with single end of line resistor or no resistor at all .
2) Not needed for this level or grade of system. If you want separate tamper loop for each zone you would need to use fuel end of line across the whole zone.
3) Yes the keypad will connect directly to the panel via the connections shown.
4) For aesthetics alone I would prefer the cable hidden. There are regs now that suggest electrical cable can not be run surface without trunking. How this doesn't conflict with the use of extension leads is beyond me.
5) As long as the writing on the sensor head is horizontal its OK.
6) They dont have to touch but within a few mm and directly in line with the reed contact.

FatBeard

Thanks Koolkid,

on 1) Is wiring with one eol resistor the recommended method for this panel? I thought it was supposed to be DEOL? Would I be able to follow this wiring diagram if i wanted to do DEOL for two or three 613s (substituting another 613 for the contact in the diagram)?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=69212791&postcount=42

Document - ALTOR DUAL INERTIA PLUS CONTACT.pdf

on 6) This was what I was trying to describe earlier. I reckon it's not a valid configuration but said i'd ask. Note how the magnet is perpendicular to the sensor. I wanted to do it this way so that I would have enough room to put the sensor down the side of window beam.

KoolKid

FatBeard wrote: »

Thanks Koolkid,

on 1) Is wiring with one eol resistor the recommended method for this panel? I thought it was supposed to be DEOL? Would I be able to follow this wiring diagram if i wanted to do DEOL for two or three 613s (substituting another 613 for the contact in the diagram)?

http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=69212791&postcount=42

Document - ALTOR DUAL INERTIA PLUS CONTACT.pdf

on 6) This was what I was trying to describe earlier. I reckon it's not a valid configuration but said i'd ask. Note how the magnet is perpendicular to the sensor. I wanted to do it this way so that I would have enough room to put the sensor down the side of window beam.

There is no recommended version to use. The panel can be configured for any use of resistors.
That's not the ideal location for the magnet.
What type of frame is it going onto?
If it's a wooden frame you could drill a magnet into the wood.

FatBeard

On the wiring again, instead of a separate tamper loop, would you wire the standard loop through the tamper contacts or just not bother at all.

Also, on a slightly seperate question on wiring, looking at the manual for the airtech it seems that one would need to wire all four contacts (excluding the tamper) to form a loop through both the shock and contact in one housing?




The problem with windows and doors is that they are recessed into the frame. Here is a good example of the style of window/door i'm on about. http://www.superhome.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/timber-window-frame.jpg With this type of window i can't install the magnet with the same orientation as the sensor as the frame is not flush with the actual window or door.

FatBeard

I think I finally grasped it. I spent the last ten minutes looking at altors pdf. ( https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/231647/132480.pdf ) . I understood schematics already but it took me a while to relate them back to the pdf .The short between contacts 1 and 2 threw me but it's really only enabling both the shock and sensor with the wiring in contact 5 and 6. It's probably worth doing the tamper in the 613 with that kind of wiring?

Regarding the orientation of the magnet. Would something like this be ok? https://i.ytimg.com/vi/44WvvZVreLo/maxresdefault.jpg The 90 degree orientation would make it possible to install in my windows and doors? Sorry if this question is very basic.

FatBeard

For two of my zones i was hoping to wire three 613s in series using DEOL, but i think that Altors diagram above doesn't extend to three sensors as he's using a wiring trick to make it work with two. I don't see how to make it work with three? From what I gather, DEOL is officially to be for one sensor one zone.

So I think i'll default back to your SEOL suggestion ealier. Do you have a nice diagram for three shock/sensors using SEOL? If I have one i'd be less likely to make mistakes while wiring.

The only other question i have then is the sensor mounting position in my previous post.

thanks again.

KoolKid

Duel EOL can work for multiple sensors /contacts.
The only difference is that you are using one core of the cable to extend the parallel resistor across all contacts and sensors.

FatBeard

KoolKid wrote: »

Duel EOL can work for multiple sensors /contacts.
The only difference is that you are using one core of the cable to extend the parallel resistor across all contacts and sensors.

Thanks. I have 8 core so that wouldn't be a problem. Any wiring diagrams?

On the orientation, would this work? https://i.ytimg.com/vi/44WvvZVreLo/maxresdefault.jpg


Also is it screws to mount the magnets also?

FatBeard

I found the wiring diagram in a manual to a different sensor manufacturer. Also, I was able to confirm that the magnet can be put at a 90 degree orientation to the sensor. All questions sorted for the moment.

I may have more questions on the initial setup after i wire everything up.

thanks

FatBeard

I have got the system up and running. However i still have many zones left to wire.

Few issues:

Is there a method to turn off and power down the spc without setting off the external SABB. As soon as i turn off the power, it starts to siren.

I copied the instructions you gave here http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=90393662&postcount=2 for wiring up the SABB. While it works very well, i don't understand why C has to be connected to Aux-. Can you explain.

Also, I have an internal soundblaster to wire in still, can i still use int+ for it even though teh SABB is using it. Also, i assume the wiring is int + (red wire), int - (black wire) on sound.


Finally, the keypad says engineer enable at the moment and i can only login as engineer, even though i can login as a user through the browser. I have the lid off the panel, but the tamper is inibited. Would this be causing it?

thanks

KoolKid

FatBeard wrote: »

Is there a method to turn off and power down the spc without setting off the external SABB. As soon as i turn off the power, it starts to siren.

This is as it should be. If you intend to keep powering down the system it would be best to leave the external bell disconnected untill you are ready to power up permanently.The external bell would stop ringing after about 15 minutes after its disconnected.

FatBeard wrote: »

I copied the instructions you gave here http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=90393662&postcount=2 for wiring up the SABB. While it works very well, i don't understand why C has to be connected to Aux-. Can you explain.

Because you are using an output that is open close rather than just switching - or + . The negative is fed into the common so it can switch through the N/O contact when the strobe activates.

FatBeard wrote: »

Also, I have an internal soundblaster to wire in still, can i still use int+ for it even though teh SABB is using it. Also, i assume the wiring is int + (red wire), int - (black wire) on sound.

Yes its just the strobe on the SAB thats using the INT + . This can be shared.

FatBeard wrote: »

Finally, the keypad says engineer enable at the moment and i can only login as engineer, even though i can login as a user through the browser. I have the lid off the panel, but the tamper is inhibited. Would this be causing it?

thanks

The keypad is just telling you that engineer access is enabled.
Your user code should also work from the keypad.

FatBeard

Hi KoolKid,

I'm trying to setup PartSet on the panel. I figured out how to do it at area level, but not at system level. How can i set this up

KoolKid

How do you mean by area level?
You just exclude the zone for either Part A and/or Part B zone by zone in the zones menu.

FatBeard

KoolKid wrote: »

How do you mean by area level?
You just exclude the zone for either Part A and/or Part B zone by zone in the zones menu.

Let me explain a little better.

I'm trying to setup the partset a and b to be something similar to the demo site contained with in the app. Currently, with my setup the partset a and partset b are disabled buttons in between unset and fullset at the stop of the "summary" page in the app.

Now I was able to get these buttons enabled last night by disabling the area option under the system configuration. When I did this it opened an "edit" menu on the samesystem configuration screen where i could assign zones to different partsets.

When I enable the area option though again, the buttons become disabled in the app at a system level again, but I can then set up a partset A and B for each area. The demo site does seem to allow you to have fullset for the system and each area.

KoolKid

If you enable areas then you need to create more areas and assign zones to that area.
You would also need to assign areas to keypads, users, zones etc. You also have to state what area the keypads are physically located in.
Part Set may need to be assigned for additional areas.
Also bear in mind that if there are zones open that will prevent part set A or B then those buttons will be not available on the app or the browser.

FatBeard

Thanks KoolKid,

all sorted now. Thanks very much for your help.

freddy99

Does anyone know if you remove the flashing "Engineer Enable" message from the keypad SPK 420. Is it possible to just show time/date on the keypad without the cycling messages about zones and Engineer Enable while the system is not set?

fred funk }{

Turn off engineer enable from your user menu.

KoolKid

freddy99 wrote: »

Does anyone know if you remove the flashing "Engineer Enable" message from the keypad SPK 420. Is it possible to just show time/date on the keypad without the cycling messages about zones and Engineer Enable while the system is not set?

Is it cycling through anything else?
Areas, open zones, status etc can be all turned on or off from the engineer menu. If you have engineer access you can also clear that message by setting grade as unrestricted or engineer config.

freddy99

Thank you both. That has solved everything.

Regards, F