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Need to move alarm panel

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  • 20-01-2017 11:06am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭


    I need to move my HKC alarm panel. It's a wired (not wireless) panel. Will the alarm sound if I try doing anything with it? If I have the engineering code, can I disable the system whilst I carry out the work?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,734 ✭✭✭tnegun


    highdef wrote: »
    I need to move my HKC alarm panel. It's a wired (not wireless) panel. Will the alarm sound if I try doing anything with it? If I have the engineering code, can I disable the system whilst I carry out the work?

    Once entered the engineer code will prevent the alarm activating but the external bell will sound when disconnected from the panel.

    Edit.Actually do you mean the panel or keypad?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    Thanks for that....I had a feeling this might be the case alright. A bit annoying so will have to try do as much prep as possible beforehand. It's not moving far so hopefully will only have the bell sounding for a short time.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The outside bell will stop after around 20 minutes anyway so not a big deal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    OP is it the box around the size of a cereal box or the unit you put your code into that you want to move?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    kub wrote: »
    OP is it the box around the size of a cereal box or the unit you put your code into that you want to move?

    It's the small unit where I put the code into. I should've been more specific. I'm guessing it's a a CAT5 cable round the back.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    highdef wrote: »
    It's the small unit where I put the code into. I should've been more specific. I'm guessing it's a a CAT5 cable round the back.

    Well some kind of a low voltage type cable anyway, more than likely alarm cable.
    Well if you have the engineer code, you need not worry about the alarm going off, just be very careful with the cable, do not touch the cores together as you may blow a fuse in the control panel ( ie the cereal box ).

    Best of luck with it and you know where we are ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    Thank you very much...yeah, I know the engineering code.

    Fingers crossed, I have no issues. If you don't hear back, all went well.

    Thanks again, Boardsie's


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    Haven't got round to doing this work just yet due to other issues but will be soon.....simple question: How do I remove the keypad panel from the wall. I have a screenshot of the back of it attached. I can see the mounting holes, one vertically aligned and one horizontally but it doesn't really show how to mount/unmount it. Sorry if it's a silly question.....it's been mental the past couple of weeks in work and my brain is fried!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    To the right of the Rec/Yes button there is a flap that is hinged on the left side. Once you prise this open, there is a screw inside it.
    By releasing this screw the Keypad opens like a book, hinged from the left.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    kub wrote: »
    To the right of the Rec/Yes button there is a flap that is hinged on the left side. Once you prise this open, there is a screw inside it.
    By releasing this screw the Keypad opens like a book, hinged from the left.

    Thank you but I don't see the flap. I've two photos attached, one showing the keypad area where you say there should be a hinged flap but I can't see one (maybe I have described the wrong model).

    The other image is a photo of the bottom of the unit. There is a some sort of button and also a screw. Removing the screw does not seem to do anything nor does pressing the button and jiggling the unit about.....apologies for the VERY crude graphics!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    highdef wrote:
    Thank you but I don't see the flap. I've two photos attached, one showing the keypad area where you say there should be a hinged flap but I can't see one (maybe I have described the wrong model).

    highdef wrote:
    The other image is a photo of the bottom of the unit. There is a some sort of button and also a screw. Removing the screw does not seem to do anything nor does pressing the button and jiggling the unit about.....apologies for the VERY crude graphics!


    That is actually the Securewave range keypad, the one earlier was the Securewave one.

    On the bottom surface of that you might see a philips head screw in the centre, if it is there remove it.
    Then there is an oval shaped fixing, like a rugby ball. Push that up while pulling the end of the Keypad out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    kub wrote: »
    That is actually the Securewave range keypad, the one earlier was the Securewave one.

    On the bottom surface of that you might see a philips head screw in the centre, if it is there remove it.
    Then there is an oval shaped fixing, like a rugby ball. Push that up while pulling the end of the Keypad out.

    Sorted, thank you. Didn't do the move this evening. Bit late to start. Will do it by the weekend. One last question.... I had it in engineering mode when I removed the cover so the fault light came on and alarm did not sound, as expected. Will the alarm still not sound when I disconnect the 4 wires? If not, I can work at leisure any time of day or night with fear of annoying neighbours.

    Thanks again kub


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    highdef wrote: »
    Sorted, thank you. Didn't do the move this evening. Bit late to start. Will do it by the weekend. One last question.... I had it in engineering mode when I removed the cover so the fault light came on and alarm did not sound, as expected. Will the alarm still not sound when I disconnect the 4 wires? If not, I can work at leisure any time of day or night with fear of annoying neighbours.

    Thanks again kub

    You can work at leisure, it won't. Earlier on in the thread some thought it was the brains of the system that you were moving hence the threat of noise.

    Just be careful as those cables carry 12 volts, you don't want to blow the keypad fuse. Just work on 1 core at a time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,258 ✭✭✭highdef


    kub wrote: »
    You can work at leisure, it won't. Earlier on in the thread some thought it was the brains of the system that you were moving hence the threat of noise.

    Just be careful as those cables carry 12 volts, you don't want to blow the keypad fuse. Just work on 1 core at a time.
    indeed, as I disconnect each cable, I'll cover it immediately with insulating tape or something similar. then move onto the next cable. all should be good that way. absolutely no harm in highlighting the risks though!


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