Is this a con

bkearns

Hi there.

My patents have been having trouble with their house alarm. Two zones would cause false activations while they were out. They got a guy out to check the system. With a hand held "tester" in one hand he would tap each window sensor with the back of a screwdriver in the other. Note..his "tester device" was not connected to anything while this test was in progress. From this test he determined that 6/12 sensors had "failed" and needed to be replaced.? I want to ensure my parents are not being taken for a ride. Does the above sound like a legit way to test for faulty inertia sensor?

kub

Can you please describe what he was using to test those sensors?

shane b

I had my alarm upgraded just before chritmas and had to replace a number of sensors. The alarm guys used a similiar method. The reason i was given that it takes 4 shocks/taps to activate the alarm panel. One guy done the tapping and the other guy stayed at the panel to see if the it registered the activation. If after 4 taps there was no responce on the panel the sensor was faulty.

kub

The way in which the sensors were tested is the correct procedure, I am at it long enough to know that.

I am curious to know what was being used to test the sensors.
Having that many faulty sensors is not unheard of and I have an idea as well as to which model they are.

kub

shane b wrote:

I had my alarm upgraded just before chritmas and had to replace a number of sensors. The alarm guys used a similiar method. The reason i was given that it takes 4 shocks/taps to activate the alarm panel. One guy done the tapping and the other guy stayed at the panel to see if the it registered the activation. If after 4 taps there was no responce on the panel the sensor was faulty.

Not quite correct, a multimeter is connected to the cables serving that zone at the panel, the first guy stays there and compares the readings whilst the other guy taps the Inertia Shock Sensors.

listermint

kub wrote: »

Not quite correct, a multimeter is connected to the cables serving that zone at the panel, the first guy stays there and compares the readings whilst the other guy taps the Inertia Shock Sensors.

Or the zones are set off when he examines the panel. 2 lads not required..

kub

listermint wrote:

Or the zones are set off when he examines the panel. 2 lads not required..

Ah sure what would I know, I am only at it for the last 27 years.

Putt it there

Sensors can be tested two ways . 1) disconnect cables from panel and test resistance through multimeter directly connected to cables . 2) remove sensor cover and test directly onto cables coming out of barrel . Contact part must also be tested .

It would be interesting to know how old the "faulty" sensors were .

But as stated what would somebody in the business with 20+ years experience know

fred funk }{

listermint wrote: »

Or the zones are set off when he examines the panel. 2 lads not required..

Incorrect. 2 lads are very handy when testing. A general walk test will only tell you that the sensor is connected to the system and will not detect a faulty sensor (there are exceptions to this but not worth going into). The only way to properly test a zone is with an ohm meter.

listermint

kub wrote: »

Ah sure what would I know, I am only at it for the last 27 years.

Yeah OK, can't be done 2 lads always required..

kub

listermint wrote:

Yeah OK, can't be done 2 lads always required..

It actually can be done by 1 guy, it is like a trip to a gym though

kub

Putt it there wrote:

Sensors can be tested two ways . 1) disconnect cables from panel and test resistance through multimeter directly connected to cables . 2) remove sensor cover and test directly onto cables coming out of barrel . Contact part must also be tested .

Best always to go with your first option above.

iwillhtfu

kub wrote: »

Ah sure what would I know, I am only at it for the last 27 years.

Sure we've had politicians in office longer look how well some of those have done. 27 years doing it the wrong way doesn't make it right.

fred funk }{

listermint wrote: »

Yeah OK, can't be done 2 lads always required..

2 lads is a luxury. Most of the time it's done by one lad and a long piece of cable running from the panel.

kub

iwillhtfu wrote:

Sure we've had politicians in office longer look how well some of those have done. 27 years doing it the wrong way doesn't make it right.

Indeed, but self employment is a different story.

Do you want to keep going with this?

KoolKid

kub wrote: »

It actually can be done by 1 guy, it is like a trip to a gym though

fred funk }{ wrote: »

2 lads is a luxury. Most of the time it's done by one lad and a long piece of cable running from the panel.

An easier option is to close off the loop at the panel and remove the EOLs (if any) Then series in your meter somewhere along the zone that you can see or get to the meter much easier.

To the OP. If the meter was not connected to anything he may have been having them on. Unless he had one of these. And I havn't seen many lads with them.

kub

KoolKid wrote:

To the OP. If the meter was not connected to anything he may have been having them on. Unless he had one of these. And I havn't seen many lads with them.

That is exactly what I was wondering, are these still available?

KoolKid

They are, but expensive & have a very limited range.

fred funk }{

KoolKid wrote: »

An easier option is to close off the loop at the panel and remove the EOLs (if any) Then series in your meter somewhere along the zone that you can see or get to the meter much easier.

To the OP. If the meter was not connected to anything he may have been having them on. Unless he had one of these. And I havn't seen many lads with them.

Yeah but I like to have a look at the entire zone before opening anything up as you can sometimes disturb the faulty one whilst opening and disconnecting it and for the sake of opening the panel its worth it.

Is it just for handiness you do it that way?

fred funk }{

KoolKid wrote: »

They are, but expensive & have a very limited range.

Yeah I remember looking at them before. Think they're designed for electrical work more so than our stuff and the range was very short.

kub

Have any of you actually used them?

fred funk }{

kub wrote: »

Have any of you actually used them?

No, but if there was one that had a good range and had a fast refresh rate I'd buy it.

kub

fred funk }{ wrote:

No, but if there was one that had a good range and had a fast refresh rate I'd buy it.

I would as well, if you do, let me know please.

KoolKid

Ive searched for a long time
These are the next best thing
http://www.keysight.com/en/pc-1000004008%3Aepsg%3Apgr/handheld-digital-multimeter-clamp-and-calibrator-meters?nid=-34618.0&cc=IE&lc=eng
They have an add on IR to Bluetooth converter that connects to an app on your phone. Limited to bluetooth range still.

Putt it there

Lads its not that hard to find a faulty sensor - no need for rare expensive flukes ! Bita walking hurts no-one

KoolKid

Depends on the size of house the alarm is in.