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Japanese Knotweed

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  • 01-02-2017 2:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭


    Does anyone know if the dead growth of knotweed that is left standing at this time of year can regrow in spring if it is knocked over onto a roadway and getting driven on. Its then getting spread along the roadside. Or is it only when the stems are alive that it can be spread?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    Does anyone know if the dead growth of knotweed that is left standing at this time of year can regrow in spring if it is knocked over onto a roadway and getting driven on. Its then getting spread along the roadside. Or is it only when the stems are alive that it can be spread?

    Only when the stems are alive can it be spread afaik, in saying that some of those stems also have seeds attached so that would probably aid in the spread.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,858 ✭✭✭dball


    Don't touch it. There is nithing good that can come from digging cutting moving or spraying this time of year. Seek professional advice before you go near it. Especially this of year. Serious **** that KW


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    Only when the stems are alive can it be spread afaik, in saying that some of those stems also have seeds attached so that would probably aid in the spread.

    it is extremely unlikely that it will spread from seed, hasn't yet!


  • Registered Users Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    it is extremely unlikely that it will spread from seed, hasn't yet!

    I was thinkin' dat, myself!ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    invicta wrote: »
    I was thinkin' dat, myself!ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜

    Of course you were.

    Your previously deleted post:

    "What do you mean?

    Of course it spreads from seed,how the hell else has it taken over the place?"

    It spreads vegetatively, look it up!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭dathi


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    Of course you were.

    Your previously deleted post:

    "What do you mean?

    Of course it spreads from seed,how the hell else has it taken over the place?"

    It spreads vegetatively, look it up!

    all the knotweed in ireland are female plants only so they do not spread by seed they spread by cuttings


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    dathi wrote: »
    all the knotweed in ireland are female plants only so they do not spread by seed they spread by cuttings

    Yes I know, I was quoting another person who thinks its spread by seed that's the bit in quotes!


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭RD10


    is this the weed that grabs onto other plants and flowers in gardens and tries to suffocate their growth?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    RD10 wrote: »
    is this the weed that grabs onto other plants and flowers in gardens and tries to suffocate their growth?

    Nope, that's bind weed you are thinking of. It's simply adorable compared to knotweed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Its perfectly OK to cut the dried up a stems at this time of year. It might even be a good thing to do because if you are spraying them when they start to come up again it will be a lot easier. The dried stems can create a forest that make it very hard to spray.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    The co council have been spraying it here with a while. Could take 3 yrs before it dies off. A couple i know have planning permission withheld because the access to the site would be through a growth of this knotweed.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    The co council have been spraying it here with a while. Could take 3 yrs before it dies off. A couple i know have planning permission withheld because the access to the site would be through a growth of this knotweed.

    Sorry but LOL more like 10 years to get rid of it. 5 to get it down to next to nothing but it will say down for a year or more looking like its dead only to arise again. There would be little left after 5 years but still it will come back so you have to keep treating it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    I know someone in Marino with a communal lane at the back of their houses. They contacted the council about it months ago but no one has come to take a look at it let alone deal with it. It's currently blocking off use of the laneway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    my3cents wrote: »
    Sorry but LOL more like 10 years to get rid of it. 5 to get it down to next to nothing but it will say down for a year or more looking like its dead only to arise again. There would be little left after 5 years but still it will come back so you have to keep treating it.

    I would have thought not if it the glyphosate is correctly injected, much more efficient kill.


  • Registered Users Posts: 619 ✭✭✭vistafinder


    my3cents wrote: »
    Its perfectly OK to cut the dried up a stems at this time of year. It might even be a good thing to do because if you are spraying them when they start to come up again it will be a lot easier. The dried stems can create a forest that make it very hard to spray.

    Its not my land so I wont be spraying it. I will be doing some work a mile up the road and will be passing with trailers was just worried that I would be spreading it along a lovely natural roadway.

    Not much traffic on it but whatever is passing is spreading the dead stuff.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 130 ✭✭virino


    http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/conquer-invasive-japanese-knotweed-by-eating-it-zbcz1504


    Here's an alternative way to get rid of Japanese Knotweed - going by all the posts here there'll be no shortage of something to get us through a famine !


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Its not my land so I wont be spraying it. I will be doing some work a mile up the road and will be passing with trailers was just worried that I would be spreading it along a lovely natural roadway.

    Not much traffic on it but whatever is passing is spreading the dead stuff.

    Cheers

    Just beware that any ruts in the soil stand a good chance of spreading it. The tyre tread of vehicles is one way you can spread it. The standard quote is a piece of root the size of a fingernail is all it needs to start off a new plant.


  • Registered Users Posts: 723 ✭✭✭Hoof Hearted2


    virino wrote: »
    http://www.motherearthnews.com/real-food/conquer-invasive-japanese-knotweed-by-eating-it-zbcz1504


    Here's an alternative way to get rid of Japanese Knotweed - going by all the posts here there'll be no shortage of something to get us through a famine !

    Eating the young stems won't conquer Japanese knotweed. What a load of hippy horsesh1t nonsense.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,858 ✭✭✭dball


    I would have thought not if it the glyphosate is correctly injected, much more efficient kill.

    maybe so, but this is not the time of year to be injecting any of it, Professionals recommend injecting same time of year as spraying - late august or when the flowers show up on the stems - might be September .


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,203 ✭✭✭Jack the Stripper


    Who qualifies these professionals?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 118 ✭✭ithread


    Please don't underestimate this weed.

    We have had it in our garden since we moved in 4 years ago. Each year it does seem that we don't get as much but I don't think we will ever be rid of it. We have been told/read that the best time to spray is just before they die off for the winter. This is when they are taking in as much energy as possible before dying off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    ithread wrote: »
    Please don't underestimate this weed.

    We have had it in our garden since we moved in 4 years ago. Each year it does seem that we don't get as much but I don't think we will ever be rid of it. We have been told/read that the best time to spray is just before they die off for the winter. This is when they are taking in as much energy as possible before dying off.

    Cobblers, inject the stems now with a 2:1 mix and spray top and bottom of leaves with a 10:1 mix of roundup, that'll do the trick.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 karj28


    hi all

    we are in the process of buying property about 6 acres and we have noticed the entire boundary where this is a small stream is covered in this weed. There doesn't seem to be much near the old house which we hope to renovate. Is there any hope of getting on top of it, it is fairly extensive! Is it best to take it section by section or what? Also have people pulled out of contracts because of this, I didn't even notice it until a friend of mine spotted it yesterday!!!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    karj28 wrote: »
    hi all

    we are in the process of buying property about 6 acres and we have noticed the entire boundary where this is a small stream is covered in this weed. There doesn't seem to be much near the old house which we hope to renovate. Is there any hope of getting on top of it, it is fairly extensive! Is it best to take it section by section or what? Also have people pulled out of contracts because of this, I didn't even notice it until a friend of mine spotted it yesterday!!!

    The only time I'd be worried about it is if there was a patch of it where I wanted to create a garden. If you can put up with spraying the JK on the banks of the stream at least once a year for the next few years I would't be too worried about it.

    There are other considerations like you can't go cutting it or digging it out of the bank because bits will sail off downstream to infect other sites.

    I have it on the banks of a river and its a bit of a pain still. I got rid of 99% of it over 10 years ago with glyphosate in August but small bits still come back. Because I don't want to leave bare soil that could erode on the river bank I now very carefully spot weed with a homemade glyphosate jell.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 karj28


    Thanks for the advice! Is it possible to spray now and again in September, the fisheries website says to spray now and again in September. Some of it is shooting up around the site, tractors must have moved it, small stems, a lady that I rang today said the real small ones should be pulled up? But make sure I get all of it and burn them. Do you use roundup? and if so how much? Thanks again!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    karj28 wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice! Is it possible to spray now and again in September, the fisheries website says to spray now and again in September. Some of it is shooting up around the site, tractors must have moved it, small stems, a lady that I rang today said the real small ones should be pulled up? But make sure I get all of it and burn them. Do you use roundup? and if so how much? Thanks again!

    Don't dig then up! Inject or spray is best nothing to get rid off. Any bit you leave in the soil may come up in a years time and you have lost the chance to spray it this year.

    You can spray now but its really getting a bit late. The only reason I spray early is to control the height so the main "killer" dose can easily be administered in late August early September.

    Small clumps can be sprayed now as they probably don't have a massive root system so won't need the August early September for maximum effect.

    How established the clumps are is a major factor in how easy they go over. If big clumps have been disturbed then thats bad news. You could do a really perfect spray this year and find that bits that had been disturbed and redistributed around the site come up next year.

    If the number of stems isn't too big then injection is a solution https://www.amazon.co.uk/jk-injector-japanese-knotweed/dp/B00WTC7MDK/ it works really well but you may have just too many stems to get around to them all. Its also a bit expensive on glyphosate as you soon use it up at the higher 2:1 mix ratio.

    I can't give you a definitive answer for the spray rate. I've slowly increased the amount of glyphosate (base ingredient of roundup) I use and now put 200ml in 10l of water (50:1) and use as many 10l's as needed on the area to be sprayed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 karj28


    Thanks, I will spot spray the stray small ones so over the next few days, they are the ones I am most worried about as they are coming into the site. The river will be a constant battle Id say as it is very dense but we will do our best!! Thanks for the advice!

    Do the council helps with this at all? As I have noticed it is pretty widespread in the area.


  • Registered Users Posts: 67 ✭✭Plutonium Kun


    Spraying knotweed by a river is very bad practice. Or just spraying knotweed full stop. Its very resistant to direct spraying. There is plenty of research on this in the UK where local authorities have had long practice of trying to control it (it generally grows better in Britains warmer summers than here so its an even bigger problem)

    To control by a river the best way is unfortunately hard work. You cut regularly near the base with a strimmer or scythe several times a year over several years. Eventually it weakens and dies. If the ground is flat enough, you can run it over with a mower.

    For smaller strands, the best way is direct application of weedkiller to a broken stem. When I worked for a conservation group in the UK we would rig up a stout stick with a sponge soaked in roundup. In late summer or early August, when the plant starts re-absorbing nutrients from its stem for the winter, you would give a sharp crack to the stem - enough to damage it, not enough to break it. Apply a small amount of weedkiller to the 'wound' with the sponge. The plant would then absorb the weedkiller deep into the rhizomes. You might need one more run in the second year, but this system was very effective and used far less weedkiller than other methods.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Spraying knotweed by a river is very bad practice. Or just spraying knotweed full stop. Its very resistant to direct spraying. There is plenty of research on this in the UK where local authorities have had long practice of trying to control it (it generally grows better in Britains warmer summers than here so its an even bigger problem)

    To control by a river the best way is unfortunately hard work. You cut regularly near the base with a strimmer or scythe several times a year over several years. Eventually it weakens and dies. If the ground is flat enough, you can run it over with a mower.

    For smaller strands, the best way is direct application of weedkiller to a broken stem. When I worked for a conservation group in the UK we would rig up a stout stick with a sponge soaked in roundup. In late summer or early August, when the plant starts re-absorbing nutrients from its stem for the winter, you would give a sharp crack to the stem - enough to damage it, not enough to break it. Apply a small amount of weedkiller to the 'wound' with the sponge. The plant would then absorb the weedkiller deep into the rhizomes. You might need one more run in the second year, but this system was very effective and used far less weedkiller than other methods.

    @karj28 if you think these practices are worth following then my advice is don't buy anywhere with JK on it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,406 ✭✭✭dathi



    . You cut regularly near the base with a strimmer or scythe several times a year over several year If the ground is flat enough, you can run it over with a mower..

    what ever you do dont do this knot weed is spread by vegetative cuttings if you chop it up with a strimmer or lawnmower small pieces will stick to the casing of mower and fall off the next time you use the mower spreading it all over the place.


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