Hkc inertia with reed

Luckysasha

Can I just clarify the wiring of these please. Going left to right on the picture is my alarm zone wiring: Red wire from panel zone in to terminal 1 (reed) then looped to terminal 2 (sensor). From terminal 5 (sensor) black wire back to panel alarm zone.
The tamper circuit will be on a separate pair of wires.

iopener

If you are looking at the sensor, the left hand terminal we call no.1 , I would connect the red wire in there and the black wire into terminal 2. I would put a loop in between terminals 5+6 . Terminals 3+4 are for the tamper. You have series the inertia and reed switches.

KoolKid

The above is correct based on a single cable,

Luckysasha

Great stuff thanks. If adding a second sensor I presume I would repeat the process but connect the red of cable 2 to terminal 2 of the first sensor and connect the other end to terminal 1 of sensor 2 etc etc. I'm thinking the trick is to keep all the sensors / reeds in series with each other.
On a side note if I wanted to add an additional indoor sounder is it just a case of parelleling off the 12v positive and negative of the already installed sounder or do I need to pick up an output on the main panel.

KoolKid

If you were looping out it would be Reds to 1 & 6 & Blacks to 2 & 5.
If you were using Blue /Yellow for tampers you would join the 2 Blues together & Yellows to 3 & 4.

Luckysasha

KoolKid wrote: »

If you were looping out it would be Reds to 1 & 6 & Blacks to 2 & 5.
If you were using Blue /Yellow for tampers you would join the 2 Blues together & Yellows to 3 & 4.

That's on the first sensor. Then on the last sensor I would have red - 1, black - 2 and 5 & 6 looped out.

KoolKid

Luckysasha wrote: »

That's on the first sensor. Then on the last sensor I would have red - 1, black - 2 and 5 & 6 looped out.

Correct.!

Luckysasha

Thanks lad. I'm used to wiring stuff in parallel. Alarms always seem to get the better of me !!!!

piddlyd

Hi just wondering if you have one of these hkc combined inertia & reed switches & ignoring the tamper circuit, would a red into 1, & black out of 2 back to the zone on the panel work?
Or do i need to do anything with 5 & 6 to close the circuit(s) or do i just leave them open if this is the only sensor in the zone?

KoolKid

You would need to short out 5 & 6.

piddlyd

KoolKid wrote: »

You would need to short out 5 & 6.

Thanks @koolkid. I've red going into 1 & out of 6, black in to 2 & out of 5, and 3 & 4 looped out on sensor 1.
I've red into 1, black into 2, and both 3 &4, and 5& 6 on sensor 2 looped out. Going by the previous posts above this is right?
The Circuit is showing open. Cable continuity was ok before i installed the switches, back to the panel.
Do i need to use EOL's on sensor no. 2?
Physically does the magnetic part of the reed switch need to be located right beside the main inertia switch? There might be a 10mm gap on sensor 2 due to the door its on

KoolKid

What inertia's are you using? If there is an arrow on the sensor head this needs to be pointing up.
If there were no resistors before you shouldn't need them now.
Are the magnets aligned with the glass reed switch?
The 3 & 4 are irrelevant unless you are wiring in tampers. 3 & 4 will be shorted anyway when the sensor lid goes on.

piddlyd

KoolKid wrote: »

What inertia's are you using? If there is an arrow on the sensor head this needs to be pointing up.
If there were no resistors before you shouldn't need them now.
Are the magnets aligned with the glass reed switch?
The 3 & 4 are irrelevant unless you are wiring in tampers. 3 & 4 will be shorted anyway when the sensor lid goes on.

Thanks @Koolkid. It was the exact same type as at the top of this post...HKC wired inertia/reed combined switch. Problem solved....cable is goosed...had originally checked it and cores were ok...no continuity now though.

Next problem: The panel is a HKC SW10270 in a new house. Internal echo is wired correctly from the get go but 'int.bell fuse flt' is active.
Problem is: compared to the HKC SW8/12 panel there's no set of fuses on the front of the pcb to replace. Anybody come across this issue on a SW10270 panel? Is the fuse on the back of the pcb?

KoolKid

piddlyd wrote: »

Next problem: The panel is a HKC SW10270 in a new house. Internal echo is wired correctly from the get go but 'int.bell fuse flt' is active.
Problem is: compared to the HKC SW8/12 panel there's no set of fuses on the front of the pcb to replace. Anybody come across this issue on a SW10270 panel? Is the fuse on the back of the pcb?

Disconnect the internal bell & see does the fault clear. Either a problem with the internal siren or the cable I'd say.

piddlyd

KoolKid wrote: »

Disconnect the internal bell & see does the fault clear. Either a problem with the internal siren or the cable I'd say.

Cable is ok. Disconnected and re-made the connections & they're ok. It looks like the fuse is built in to the pcb & for some reason blew. Only way around it now seems to be to get an RF echo

KoolKid

With everything disconnected the fuse should reset.