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Beko Washing Machine not working?

  • 18-03-2017 8:21pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭


    OK looking for some ideas

    Have a Beko WMB 51021 W, bought just over 2 years ago but it spent about a year in storage so not used very much

    Was working perfect today then when I try to start another wash nothing happens. I press the wash button and it goes as if it is about to start

    Then after a few mins both the Ready and Wash light start flashing. Checked everything and looks ok. Any ideas?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    Try this for starters and let us know what (if anything) happens.
    Remove any clothes from the drum, Using a jug put about 5 litres of water in the drum through the open door. Close door, move control dial to Drain-Spin and press on. Does the water drain out and machine spin.?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,815 ✭✭✭antoinolachtnai




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    washman3 wrote: »
    Try this for starters and let us know what (if anything) happens.
    Remove any clothes from the drum, Using a jug put about 5 litres of water in the drum through the open door. Close door, move control dial to Drain-Spin and press on. Does the water drain out and machine spin.?


    Thanks, it takes the water out

    Also spins


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan



    All of that done

    I think the pump bringing in the water might be f**ked so going to drop into Beko offices and see what they think


  • Registered Users Posts: 317 ✭✭hatchman


    Turn off water to machine unscrew hose at back of machine there is a small filter there which could be blocked ? Just a thought


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    hatchman wrote: »
    Turn off water to machine unscrew hose at back of machine there is a small filter there which could be blocked ? Just a thought

    Thanks, I tried that. I talked to friend and he said because the water is going it is not the pump. At a bit of a loss

    Might need to just buy a new one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,377 ✭✭✭The Red Ace


    set it for drain only and press start, if it behaves the same as other programmes I would suspect a faulty door interlock but diagnosing is probably beyond diy. check to see if door has locked as it is the first thing it should do if the pcb is ok


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    set it for drain only and press start, if it behaves the same as other programmes I would suspect a faulty door interlock but diagnosing is probably beyond diy. check to see if door has locked as it is the first thing it should do if the pcb is ok

    The door is locked, once I set it to any wash setting it auto locks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Thanks, it takes the water out

    Also spins
    So water is pumping out = drain pump ok
    Spin is working = motor is ok,
    Door inter lock is also ok.
    You have removed the flexible (probably grey) water intake hose and checked the filter at where this is connected to the machine.
    When you have this hose disconnected did you gently open the water valve to see if water is coming through, as there is sometimes another mesh filter at the other end of this hose.
    If you are happy that water is making its way this far the problem points to the water intake valve.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    washman3 wrote: »
    So water is pumping out = drain pump ok
    Spin is working = motor is ok,
    Door inter lock is also ok.
    You have removed the flexible (probably grey) water intake hose and checked the filter at where this is connected to the machine.
    When you have this hose disconnected did you gently open the water valve to see if water is coming through, as there is sometimes another mesh filter at the other end of this hose.
    If you are happy that water is making its way this far the problem points to the water intake valve.

    Checked the pipe. Took it off and ran water thru it from tap. Working

    opened the valve and water squirted out

    Connected everything back up. Opened water and then started to slowly open the connect at washing machine, after a couple of twists water squirted out


    At this stage I have no fecking idea what could be wrong. Am I best just writing it off and buying new? Thanks


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    It would be a shame to scrap a machine that's had so little use. After your diagnostic work it could be a faulty water inlet valve not letting the water into the machine. The float level could be stuck and the machine thinks it's full already and won't allow anymore water to enter. The element could be blown and because the water isn't heating it won't progress to the wash phase.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    jca wrote: »
    It would be a shame to scrap a machine that's had so little use. After your diagnostic work it could be a faulty water inlet valve not letting the water into the machine. The float level could be stuck and the machine thinks it's full already and won't allow anymore water to enter. The element could be blown and because the water isn't heating it won't progress to the wash phase.

    I guess these are all jobs I should not undertake myself? I am fairly handy but know my limits.

    Or should I try giving it a bash?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Checked the pipe. Took it off and ran water thru it from tap. Working

    opened the valve and water squirted out

    Connected everything back up. Opened water and then started to slowly open the connect at washing machine, after a couple of twists water squirted out


    At this stage I have no fecking idea what could be wrong. Am I best just writing it off and buying new? Thanks

    OK, now you know water is getting to the machine but not making its way into the drum. Where the flexible pipe is connected at the back of the machine is the WATER INLET VALVE.
    If you remove the top cover you will see it clearly, white plastic with 2 little black/brown solenoids attached with 2 short black flexible rubber hoses that tale the water to the detergent drawer and then to the drum. When these solenoids get a signal from the PCB they open and allow water to pass through.
    In your case its simple, either the inlet valve is getting a signal but its not opening, ie needs replacing, OR its not getting a signal therefore the PCB is faulty.
    Since you don't appear to have a meter/tester to check to, all you can do is replace it and hope for the best. With a meter you could also test the Heater Element as there is an very slight chance that may be the problem too.

    IMPORTANT.... POWER OFF BEFORE REMOVING ANY COVERS AND PERFORMING ANY TESTS.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    washman3 wrote: »
    OK, now you know water is getting to the machine but not making its way into the drum. Where the flexible pipe is connected at the back of the machine is the WATER INLET VALVE.
    If you remove the top cover you will see it clearly, white plastic with 2 little black/brown solenoids attached with 2 short black flexible rubber hoses that tale the water to the detergent drawer and then to the drum. When these solenoids get a signal from the PCB they open and allow water to pass through.
    In your case its simple, either the inlet valve is getting a signal but its not opening, ie needs replacing, OR its not getting a signal therefore the PCB is faulty.
    Since you don't appear to have a meter/tester to check to, all you can do is replace it and hope for the best. With a meter you could also test the Heater Element as there is an very slight chance that may be the problem too.

    IMPORTANT.... POWER OFF BEFORE REMOVING ANY COVERS AND PERFORMING ANY TESTS.

    Any recommendations to source parts? A friend said ebay.....


  • Moderators, Regional North West Moderators Posts: 19,137 Mod ✭✭✭✭byte
    byte


    You could try Exsparetise or Quinnspares for appliance spares


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Any recommendations to source parts? A friend said ebay.....

    Check to see you need parts first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    Quinnspares... 057 9351729
    Have the make and model number at the ready along with your debit card details and part will arrive the following day.
    But you really DO need to pinpoint the part you need.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    I removed the top, pic of the connection which goes onto the water pipe inside

    Looks like it is burnt out


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    I removed the top, pic of the connection which goes onto the water pipe inside

    Looks like it is burnt out

    It looks like a hot and cold water machine. Try swapping them over and just using cold water only.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    I removed the top, pic of the connection which goes onto the water pipe inside

    Looks like it is burnt out

    Ya, burned out. Replacement WATER INLET VALVE NEEDED.
    you will also need a connector as its also burned, you will not get this from Quinnspares, try any washing machine repair guy/shop and they should sort you out. Snip off the old one from the wires and join the new one PROPERLY.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,646 ✭✭✭washman3


    jca wrote: »
    It looks like a hot and cold water machine. Try swapping them over and just using cold water only.

    No its not. Its a single inlet that supplies various amounts of water to the various compartments in the detergent drawer. You may find that it will wash, but not rinse or take in detergent.

    In short, NEVER EVER swap any wires on any appliance unless you are 100% sure what you are doing. You may find your house filled with toxic smoke at 3am, if it hasn't already poisoned you in your sleep.:(


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    washman3 wrote: »
    Ya, burned out. Replacement WATER INLET VALVE NEEDED.
    you will also need a connector as its also burned, you will not get this from Quinnspares, try any washing machine repair guy/shop and they should sort you out. Snip off the old one from the wires and join the new one PROPERLY.

    A step too far to be honest for myself. I bought the water inlet vavle. Installed it and water came in on one side. The other side which is burned nothing.

    So I went and bought a new one

    Need to see if parts shop will take it back now

    Or if anyone wants to buy and know how to fix....it is available


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    jca wrote: »
    It looks like a hot and cold water machine. Try swapping them over and just using cold water only.

    It is single supply machine


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    washman3 wrote: »
    No its not. Its a single inlet that supplies various amounts of water to the various compartments in the detergent drawer. You may find that it will wash, but not rinse or take in detergent.

    In short, NEVER EVER swap any wires on any appliance unless you are 100% sure what you are doing. You may find your house filled with toxic smoke at 3am, if it hasn't already poisoned you in your sleep.:(

    That would be my concern to be honest, would prefer my families safety over 200 odd quid. To start taking out wires and putting new ones on I find too risky. So off to shop


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    A step too far to be honest for myself. I bought the water inlet vavle. Installed it and water came in on one side. The other side which is burned nothing.

    So I went and bought a new one

    Need to see if parts shop will take it back now

    Or if anyone wants to buy and know how to fix....it is available

    You need to see if power is being sent to the valve from the circuit board when needed. If you can get a good connector plug and solder it to the harness and then insulate it properly you needn't worry about fire etc. Obviously if you feel it's too tricky for you (nothing wrong with that either) you'd be better off buying a new machine. Nordmende are doing good warranty deals on machines atm. I got a cheap and cheerful dishwasher for €285 with 3 years parts and labour warranty. It's a cracker of a dishwasher, most importantly the missus likes it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    jca wrote: »
    You need to see if power is being sent to the valve from the circuit board when needed. If you can get a good connector plug and solder it to the harness and then insulate it properly you needn't worry about fire etc. Obviously if you feel it's too tricky for you (nothing wrong with that either) you'd be better off buying a new machine. Nordmende are doing good warranty deals on machines atm. I got a cheap and cheerful dishwasher for €285 with 3 years parts and labour warranty. It's a cracker of a dishwasher, most importantly the missus likes it.

    Got Servis with 4 years parts and labour, 7kg so will help with extra rooms

    Trying to solder etc is just too risky for myself, I know my limits :-)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Shefwedfan wrote: »
    Got Servis with 4 years parts and labour, 7kg so will help with extra rooms

    Trying to solder etc is just too risky for myself, I know my limits :-)

    Good decision. Best of luck with it.


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