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Upstream nymphing

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  • 22-03-2017 11:31pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭


    Hey all

    Been on the fly for a good while, never really tried upstream nymphing much only with the dou method, would you say the upstream nymphing is more affective? What should my leader be? 9ft to the point and 3ft from the point to the dropper ? I have a good bit of goldhead pheasants and hears ears, what water should I be looking out for to use the upstream nymphing? Slack ish water etc, long line or short line? I've tried this a few times with little success maybe I'm throwing out a long line, and not keeping in contact with the line? Any advice lads be helpful.

    Cheers.


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 578 ✭✭✭whelzer


    What rivers do you fish?


  • Registered Users Posts: 668 ✭✭✭blackpearl


    Fished it a good bit years back upstream, short cast 12 o clock around to 3 let nymphs drift to you and below ,found the best set up check nymph weighted dark olive size 12,6" above 6" dropper size 14 or16 olive goldhead nymph or same in goldhead pheasant tail the use of a indicator is very important what ever depth you are fishing have the indicator the same distance from the water watch for any movement strike ,you would be supprised at the number of good trout you would catch a foot or so from your feet,you have fished the fly yourself you will know the places to fish side of pools ,above and below rocks ect hope this helps you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    blackpearl wrote: »
    Fished it a good bit years back upstream, short cast 12 o clock around to 3 let nymphs drift to you and below ,found the best set up check nymph weighted dark olive size 12,6" above 6" dropper size 14 or16 olive goldhead nymph or same in goldhead pheasant tail the use of a indicator is very important what ever depth you are fishing have the indicator the same distance from the water watch for any movement strike ,you would be supprised at the number of good trout you would catch a foot or so from your feet,you have fished the fly yourself you will know the places to fish side of pools ,above and below rocks ect hope this helps you.
    Cheers blackbear

    Just wondering the rivers I fish aren't that big from 6 feet to 25ft wide how would I go about and normally I fish small streams, would I have to change tactics slightly compared to a bigger river like the suir, gonna give it a go this week and see how I get on!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    There's loads of videos on YouTube that will help. Search the seams and fast water at the head of pools. Klink and dink is good but my fav is czeck nymphing styles. Your heaviest nymph needs to be in touch with the bottom or you'll catch nothing. Be prepared to loose flies, think of them as ammunition, disposable. Good luck


  • Registered Users Posts: 668 ✭✭✭blackpearl


    On the bigger rivers like suir and boyne ,when i fished the boyne the first time i was scraching my head but soon nailed it, fish in sections just break it up like it was a small river fish a100 yard of river get out back to start, move out a few yards and up the river just be carefull this time of year in the big rivers, got a nasty fall a few years back and was swept down a bit, lucky for me i got back to my feet just before i came to a deep pool, use a wading stick it will help big time and as the last post said you need plenty of flys when using weight nymphs,best of luck you will catch loads of small trout and salmon parr but you will be suprised at the size of some of the big trout you will catch,let us know how you get on ,i have moved to the big lakes this last number of years all dry fly fishing but when its not happing its won boring place to be ,in rivers theirs allways some thing happing around the next bend.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    blackpearl wrote: »
    On the bigger rivers like suir and boyne ,when i fished the boyne the first time i was scraching my head but soon nailed it, fish in sections just break it up like it was a small river fish a100 yard of river get out back to start, move out a few yards and up the river just be carefull this time of year in the big rivers, got a nasty fall a few years back and was swept down a bit, lucky for me i got back to my feet just before i came to a deep pool, use a wading stick it will help big time and as the last post said you need plenty of flys when using weight nymphs,best of luck you will catch loads of small trout and salmon parr but you will be suprised at the size of some of the big trout you will catch,let us know how you get on ,i have moved to the big lakes this last number of years all dry fly fishing but when its not happing its won boring place to be ,in rivers theirs allways some thing happing around the next bend.

    Will do I mostly do dry flys on the rivers some action, went out for a look at the river to high at the moment should be perfect for next week! Will post update on how it goes. Cheers for the advice.

    Audloon just wondering do you ever use normal nymphs like hears ears doing upstream or just czech nymphs?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    Hares ear and pheasant tail would be perfect. Heavy ones so tungsten bead head, 2 beads if necessary to get you down.
    I might be emphasising the weight a bit much as I fish big rivers where I'm living but as long as you remember you need the nymphs to be touching the bottom you should be good.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Auldloon wrote: »
    Hares ear and pheasant tail would be perfect. Heavy ones so tungsten bead head, 2 beads if necessary to get you down.
    I might be emphasising the weight a bit much as I fish big rivers where I'm living but as long as you remember you need the nymphs to be touching the bottom you should be good.

    Cheers for the advice

    I tie my own flies I'm using a 3.5mm gold bead would adding two of these be a good idea do you think, don't have any tungsten beads will have to get,

    Cheers for the advice!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,241 ✭✭✭Auldloon


    Cheers for the advice

    I tie my own flies I'm using a 3.5mm gold bead would adding two of these be a good idea do you think, don't have any tungsten beads will have to get,

    Cheers for the advice!


    Try a few sure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Do any of ye fish mayfly nymphs. I always reckoned that trout must consume large numbers of mayfly nymphs before they hatch,as there is no need to break the surface for the hatched flies.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 32,688 ✭✭✭✭ytpe2r5bxkn0c1


    Do any of ye fish mayfly nymphs. I always reckoned that trout must consume large numbers of mayfly nymphs before they hatch,as there is no need to break the surface for the hatched flies.

    That's what the Hare's Ear nymph was designed as. The gold ribbed in particular.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.

    Just change the size for different species. Size 12 to 20.

    I find fishing the "klink and dink" a lot easier and more effective than upstream nymphing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 32,688 ✭✭✭✭ytpe2r5bxkn0c1


    As in all upwinged flies or just the mayfly.

    The Hare's Ear? Specifically designed as Mayfly nymph.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    What size hook for mayfly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Bogwoppit wrote: »
    Just change the size for different species. Size 12 to 20.

    I find fishing the "klink and dink" a lot easier and more effective than upstream nymphing.

    What is klink and dink.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    What is klink and dink.

    You put a klinkhammer dry fly at the end of your tippet. You tie 12 to 24 inches of tippet to the bend of the hook and tie a weighted nymph to that.
    You cast upstream and let it drift back, the dry acts as an indicator if something takes the nymph.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Bogwoppit wrote: »
    You put a klinkhammer dry fly at the end of your tippet. You tie 12 to 24 inches of tippet to the bend of the hook and tie a weighted nymph to that.
    You cast upstream and let it drift back, the dry acts as an indicator if something takes the nymph.

    Could you tie a dry fly to the dropper and use the end fly as a nymph.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    This is what I do for klink and dink

    I have a dropper very short one at that then, I have a klink on it.
    About 20 inches of line I have that tied to a goldhead nymph
    I tried tying it on the bend of the hook but found trout weren't going for the dry fly.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    Its the same as fishing a team of wets except the one on the point is dry - just tie droppers! Less indication but you'l still see it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    When you say the point fly do you mean the fly at the end of the leader or the fly closest to the fly line.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Point fly is the fly at the end of the bottom, the klink would be the top dropper. Or the fly nearest to the fly line.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    Would the point fly be inclined to sink the dry fly. Let's say you had a dry mayfly and a mayfly emerger/nymph on the point,would it not draw the dry fly down.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Would the point fly be inclined to sink the dry fly. Let's say you had a dry mayfly and a mayfly emerger/nymph on the point,would it not draw the dry fly down.

    No but the dry fly needs to be able to hold it up I used size 12 klinks with no problem, I'd say a mayfly would be able to hold it. Put gink and your sorted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I generally use a dry fly one size bigger than the nymph e.g. Size 16 klinkhammer and size 18 bead head nymph hanging 18 inches/ 2 feet below.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    No but the dry fly needs to be able to hold it up I used size 12 klinks with no problem, I'd say a mayfly would be able to hold it. Put gink and your sorted.

    And the emerging mayfly.Or the mayfly nymph. Do you gink these. Do you give the nymph life as in drawing the line a little or let it do its owe thing.Trout love to pick off the mayfly as they hang from the surface.


  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    No the nymph you dont gink just the dry fly so that it will stay up, what I would do for example say a size 12 mayfly and a size 14/12 mayfly nymph, short ish casts and when it's near to you draw it up slowly like the nymph is emerging if you get me. I wouldn't cast out to far with this type of fishing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,994 ✭✭✭minktrapper


    When I am fishing for trout during the mayfly hatch I approach them from down stream.Then they all stop rising to the natural flies even before I start casting. I presume it is because they see me. How do I prevent this from happening.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭ardinn


    When I am fishing for trout during the mayfly hatch I approach them from down stream.Then they all stop rising to the natural flies even before I start casting. I presume it is because they see me. How do I prevent this from happening.

    Dont let them see you!!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 730 ✭✭✭thefisherbuy


    Try and wade very carefully don't get too close I'd be more than two rod lengths away as they will spook, your casting has to be very good no splashes as they will spook.


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