Tesla Model S

ELM327

So i guess if I want to move next year I need to order in Q1.

eamondunphy

slave1 wrote: »

Your range is in line with expectations, you have a late 2016 production car

That's a great chart, thanks for that!

jhegarty

eamondunphy wrote: »

That's a great chart, thanks for that!

Charts for all models here : https://teslike.com/

Gumbo

2020.36.11 out for the older folk

slave1

Got that a few weeks back, nothing for us "classic" folk, just bug fixes

unkel

Same here, got it sometime last week I think. It's mainly for Model 3 / FSD I think.

Gumbo

I was last to receive this time

BigAl81

ELM327 wrote:

So i guess if I want to move next year I need to order in Q1.

When am I setting my calender reminder for Have my eye on an S next year!!

BobbyBingo

Gumbo wrote: »

2020.36.11 out for the older folk

I'm on 2020.36.16 on my S since some time last week.

I see that 2020.40.4 has been rolling out this week in sizeable enough numbers too.

unkel

BigAl81 wrote: »

When am I setting my calender reminder for Have my eye on an S next year!!

Second hand: buy now and in the UK!!! Window of opportunity is closing quickly.

New: buy in the new year in Ireland. Relax and see what happens. Tesla is not going to increase the price of a Model S

ELM327

unkel wrote: »

Second hand: buy now and in the UK!!! Window of opportunity is closing quickly.

New: buy in the new year in Ireland. Relax and see what happens. Tesla is not going to increase the price of a Model S

Agree.
The stuff with Brexit is not going to reduce the price of second hand cars, same with the return of full VAT and less VRT reductions.
Used S prices are going to do an "ioniq" over the next few months beginning Q1 2021 and maintain .


If buying new, the window is Q1 2021 to benefit from reduced VAT and VRT, about a 6k saving on an X

unkel

ELM327 wrote: »

Used S prices are going to do an "ioniq" over the next few months beginning Q1 2021 and maintain

You mean the Model S second hand will depreciate but slower than most other comparable cars? If so, agreed. That's my expectation too. Lots of demand / interest in them and supply (from overseas) will completely dry up. But of course the car is getting older, most early cars will be out of warranty (soon) and there are now more and more mid to long range younger cars available from other makes. So it will depreciate, but keep its value relatively well.

slave1

Sadly the big saving opportunites are all but gone, since coming out of lockdown Tesla CPO have hiked their prices and the used Tesla market (rightly) followed accordingly.
I'm happy with my Leaf and Model S, both at super value and both will serve us for many years to come.

My next step is self charging, large PV array being fitted next week, hopefully 18 410w panels, I know it's a gloomy time of year but I am very interested in how much true green driving I can manage...

markpb

slave1 wrote: »

My next step is self charging, large PV array being fitted next week, hopefully 18 410w panels, I know it's a gloomy time of year but I am very interested in how much true green driving I can manage...

We have a 3.1kWp system and I could count on one slightly disfigured hand the number of days we were able to charge the car from excess PV during the day. And even then it was never more than a few kW at a time. I have three young children so most of our consumption goes on hot water for either the washing machine or bath.

An 18 panel system should produce quite a bit of power, especially if we have another summer like April/May this year.

unkel

slave1 wrote: »

I am very interested in how much true green driving I can manage...

You can manage very green driving by charging at night from the grid. On average this is from 50% wind. Maximum 75% and both of these figures are growing quickly. You can automatically charge your car with excess PV using a Zappi or other smart car charge point, but the extra cost of one over a dumb charge point means it will take many years before you actually save a cent doing this.

markpb wrote: »

We have a 3.1kWp system and I could count on one slightly disfigured hand the number of days we were able to charge the car from excess PV during the day. And even then it was never more than a few kW at a time. I have three young children so most of our consumption goes on hot water for either the washing machine or bath.

Heating water with PV is very inefficient and is only worth 5c per kWh (charging a car with PV is worth 8c where all direct use of eletricity is worth 16c)

And young children use very little hot water compared to teenagers. Particularly female ones

garo

markpb wrote: »

We have a 3.1kWp system and I could count on one slightly disfigured hand the number of days we were able to charge the car from excess PV during the day. And even then it was never more than a few kW at a time. I have three young children so most of our consumption goes on hot water for either the washing machine or bath.

An 18 panel system should produce quite a bit of power, especially if we have another summer like April/May this year.

Assume you have an eddi and give it priority? As Unkel says if you have a decent gas or oil boiler don’t throw away your electricity heating water.

Huge difference between a 3.1kW and 7.3kW system that slave1 is installing. The excess after self-use will be significant. Even with my 4.8kWh system and teenagers of the female persuasion I was often exporting 10kWh a day.

garo

Anyone here done a cabin filter change. I'm seeing a good bit of condensation in the rear window and read somewhere that a cabin filter change might fix it. Also the air flow at lower settings is unimpressive. Fortunately I have a pre-facelift so the filter is much easier to get at. Also best place to get a new one?

Gumbo

garo wrote: »

Anyone here done a cabin filter change. I'm seeing a good bit of condensation in the rear window and read somewhere that a cabin filter change might fix it. Also the air flow at lower settings is unimpressive. Fortunately I have a pre-facelift so the filter is much easier to get at. Also best place to get a new one?

Got mine done as part of the major service in July but it was done by Tesla. It’s pretty straight forward to do so I’ll be doing my own next time round.

If you don’t know when it was last done, it’s worth doing anyway to aid the smells etc coming through the AC system.

I’d try buy the filter from Tesla though. I’m
Not aware of any motor factors that stock or can get them.

slave1

garo wrote: »

Anyone here done a cabin filter change. I'm seeing a good bit of condensation in the rear window and read somewhere that a cabin filter change might fix it. Also the air flow at lower settings is unimpressive. Fortunately I have a pre-facelift so the filter is much easier to get at. Also best place to get a new one?

It’s easy peasy replacement, I got my filter from Amazon Warehouse...

garo

Cheers. I checked the Tesla shop but they only have M3 filters in stock. Slave1 did you get Tesla branded ones or aftermarket? I can see a bunch of Chinese made ones on regular Amazon.

slave1

Aftermarket, looked identical to the blacked filter it replaced, I posted a picture on my Model S thread...

garo

So the filter on my car was replaced Jan of this year so probably doesn't need replacing. I ordered two from Amazon anyway for later.


I have a question about VRT appeal. The Long Range Plus is on sale for 80,990 before any taxes. Revenue valued the OMSP of my car at a lot more than that: 110k by my calculations before depreciation. Is OMSP before or after VRT? Does it make sense to charge VRT on a price that already includes VRT? In any case, even after including VRT, the OMSP for a 100D is 15k less than the OMSP for my 70. Is this a winnable argument or should I try a different tack?

spyderski

garo wrote: »

I have a question about VRT appeal. The Long Range Plus is on sale for 80,990 before any taxes. Revenue valued the OMSP of my car at a lot more than that: 110k by my calculations before depreciation. Is OMSP before or after VRT? Does it make sense to charge VRT on a price that already includes VRT? In any case, even after including VRT, the OMSP for a 100D is 15k less than the OMSP for my 70. Is this a winnable argument or should I try a different tack?

It’s one of the many injustices of VRT - not only is the OMSP based in the price including VRT, it also includes VAT. So VRT basically 3 taxes rolled into one!

garo

Right! So anyone else had trouble putting their Irish license plates on? I got a bog standard set of plastics fitted at the local motorfactor. Took the rear plate out - thin metal thing - managed to break off a tiny bit off the top right edge of the holder. Then went to slide the plates in and they won't fit.


Found this thread on TMC:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/replace-number-plates.131596/page-2

I'd had standard thickness plates made up before I found this thread but then found my way here when I was having the same difficulty everyone else reports.

The front plate fitted just about and without risking any tabs on the mount. Just had to be careful.

The back "All-Wheel Drive" holder just needed a slight adjustment. It is easier to do if you unscrew it (two screws revealed when the old plate is removed) but can be done in-situ. With no plate in the holder, you can see there are a series of very thin plastic vertical struts that push the plate outwards. I just used wirecutters to remove the short ones next to the tabs. I couldn't see any real risk as it still left the long plastic struts if I'd found I needed to get a thin plate afterall.

Both plates now fit perfectly in the standard Tesla holders.

I know I could just use double-sided tape for the back but honestly couldn't be arsed cleaning off all the tape residue behind the number plate holders. Yes they are both screwed on and taped on.


Anyone else had a similar experience?

Gumbo

garo wrote: »

Right! So anyone else had trouble putting their Irish license plates on? I got a bog standard set of plastics fitted at the local motorfactor. Took the rear plate out - thin metal thing - managed to break off a tiny bit off the top right edge of the holder. Then went to slide the plates in and they won't fit.


Found this thread on TMC:
https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/replace-number-plates.131596/page-2


I know I could just use double-sided tape for the back but honestly couldn't be arsed cleaning off all the tape residue behind the number plate holders. Yes they are both screwed on and taped on.


Anyone else had a similar experience?

I removed the Tesla black plastic mount. You need to take the nose one off to get at the rear fixings.

I then used my standard black plate holders.
I’d love to remove it and try the vinyl sticker approach as the front is messy looking with the plate in my opinion.

garo

Yeah the front is messy as it looks like there are two "holders". One plastic bit that goes over the cone and presents a flat surface and then the actual holder stickered/screwed to the first. But I can live with the mess for the short term while I decide on a long-term solution. The problem is I now have the old rear plate off and couldn't slide the new one in because it is too thick.



The Tesla mounts truly are sh*te. The little black clips on the top and bottom are a PITA. No easy way to slide plates in or out if you are trying to be careful and not end up accidentally scratching the paint.

Gumbo

garo wrote: »

Yeah the front is messy as it looks like there are two "holders". One plastic bit that goes over the cone and presents a flat surface and then the actual holder stickered/screwed to the first. But I can live with the mess for the short term while I decide on a long-term solution. The problem is I now have the old rear plate off and couldn't slide the new one in because it is too thick.



The Tesla mounts truly are sh*te. The little black clips on the top and bottom are a PITA. No easy way to slide plates in or out if you are trying to be careful and not end up accidentally scratching the paint.

That’s why I use my own plain black holders. The bottom clips out and you can change a plate (should you wish to) in 10 seconds. You know, just in case your plate text is not exactly nct legal.

unkel

Have a loaner 181 S75 at the moment. How do I know if that has AP2 or AP2.5? System seems to work better than AP1, but far from perfect. It doesn't seem to recognise cars overtaking you on the motorway until they have already gone past. The start / stop without doing anything is a very nice feature though.

jhegarty

unkel wrote: »

Have a loaner 181 S75 at the moment. How do I know if that has AP2 or AP2.5? System seems to work better than AP1, but far from perfect. It doesn't seem to recognise cars overtaking you on the motorway until they have already gone past. The start / stop without doing anything is a very nice feature though.

2.5 added dashcam and sentry mode. So see if you have that.

ELM327

unkel wrote: »

Have a loaner 181 S75 at the moment. How do I know if that has AP2 or AP2.5? System seems to work better than AP1, but far from perfect. It doesn't seem to recognise cars overtaking you on the motorway until they have already gone past. The start / stop without doing anything is a very nice feature though.

You can press the "Additional Information" on the screen after pressing the T button. This will give the precise spec.

I'd wager 181 would have a AP2.5, but that's based on registration date not build date.