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Timing marks on a 2.0 Ford Zetec engine

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  • 03-04-2017 2:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭


    I'm trying to diagnose a no-start condition on a Focus ST170 with aftermarket ECU. I have fuel, air, spark and compression, so that only leaves timing as far as I can see. Popped into my local motor factors and got a Sealey timing light with adjustment.

    My cam sprockets are marked for TDC, but the crankshaft pulley doesn't see to be. I establish _+ 5* from TDC by putting A Long Thing in cyl 1 and rotating the crank by hand until the Long Thing was at max height.

    There are 3 very small white lines on the block inboard of the crank pulley, and I have to assume this is the timing marks. However, there's nothing on the crank pulley that lines up with them at 20* BTDC, TDC or anywhere even close, see photo. The second photo shows two imperfections on the outer lip of the pulley, but they look like damage rather than timing marks.

    I don't need timing to be exact, I can tweak the ignition advance timing in software, so I'm going to add my own, with something like tippex. I'm pretty new to this, having learned most of what I know on Sunday, so I don't actually know where my tippex mark should be drawn on the crank pulley... I'm guessing it should line up with the intended spark point at 'normal' timing, let's call that 20 degree BTDC, but I don't know which of those marks is meant to be that. Any ideas? If there were 2, I'd guess they were 20* and 0. But the 3rd? Ideas?
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭case_sensitive



    Thanks, but unfortunately that's not a Blacktop; Zetec describes a whole family of engines from Pumas though Mondeos.
    My crank pulley is much higher on the block/sump is much lower.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    This is likely timed with timing pins in back of the block.


  • Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭case_sensitive


    This is likely timed with timing pins in back of the block.

    There are certainly locking holes, I've ordered the cam and crank locking set, should arrive today. Thing is that I want to check/set the spark dynamically, for which I need to establish 20 degrees before tdc. I suppose I could lock the crank, then use a protractor to find 20* BTDC, and mark block and pulley with tippex, but i was hoping for something more scientific.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Spark is pcm controlled on that car if its zetec so what do you plan on doing if its not sparking where you think it should ??
    Have you read faults or checked live data for cam and crank signals there is a hell of a lot of other things to check.
    If you have a spark thats good enough.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭case_sensitive


    Spark is pcm controlled on that car if its zetec so what do you plan on doing if its not sparking where you think it should ??
    Have you read faults or checked live data for cam and crank signals there is a hell of a lot of other things to check.
    If you have a spark thats good enough.

    Yep, the car (well, engine and gearbox) is now being driven by an ME221 aftermarket ECU, so whatever the Ford PCM was doing (and it was working happily a month ago) it isn't doing it anymore. ME221 software shows crank and cam IRQs on each rotation. I have spark (so ECU is detecting crank rotation),



    and injectors are fueling (tested with some test tubes over the injectors while cranking).



    I have air going into the system, both at idle and part throttle.
    I have bought a new compression gauge, old one is busted, but non-scientific finger-over-the-tube while down the cylinder on cranking shows plenty of resistance, so I have some compression. Plus, there's no way it lost all compression in the last month.



    So all that's left (seems to be) timing. I'm prepared to draw my own timing marks, I just need to know where.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Ah that explains a lot :-) have you a vin for the car the engine came out of if you have ill see if i can get any info for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 554 ✭✭✭crosshair1


    Youll be close enough with a rod in the cylinder to find tdc, mark crank pulley & timing cover at this point, put a second mark on the cover 1" counter clockwise from tdc - this would be approx 20btdc
    This will be good enough to get it started if its going to.


  • Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭case_sensitive


    crosshair1 wrote: »
    Youll be close enough with a rod in the cylinder to find tdc, mark crank pulley & timing cover at this point, put a second mark on the cover 1" counter clockwise from tdc - this would be approx 20btdc
    This will be good enough to get it started if its going to.

    Yep, this is what I'm realising, it doesn't seem to be any more technical than: find TDC with A Long Thing, mark both block and crank pulley wherever is convenient, draw out 10 and then 20 degrees with a protractor and do little marks in tippex!

    I wasn't expecting to get much for this build in Easons, but hey, it's all learning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 852 ✭✭✭case_sensitive


    Ah that explains a lot :-) have you a vin for the car the engine came out of if you have ill see if i can get any info for you.


    Thanks, I made sure to get the VIN and manufacturers plate when I cut up the donor, so they're definitely in a little box in the garage (for the IVA man).

    I had Ireland's only Focus ST170 cabrio for about an hour, but maddeningly, that photo got lost in The Great Flickr Purge of 2014.


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