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Boundary wall/extension

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    So after a quick visit to a place near the airport, I have decided to stick with the french doors and have two panel windows to the sides. I am lowering the roof and losing the top windows. If it's necessary, I can add another roof window, but I doubt that will be needed.

    I walked into the place and said I was interested in looking at porch doors for a kitchen extension. As someone who previously worked in a related industry, my first question was to ask what the client had in mind. The first question I was asked, was what my budget was. It's not an approach I like, because the sales person then sells to, or above your budget. I said 3-5k would be the budget and that I was interested in the large double door types, but I was shown french doors with side panels and was told they were 8k. I politely excused myself after a couple of minutes. If the sales person can't get on the page with you from the start, it's a good idea to move on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    goz83 wrote: »
    So after a quick visit to a place near the airport, I have decided to stick with the french doors and have two panel windows to the sides. I am lowering the roof and losing the top windows. If it's necessary, I can add another roof window, but I doubt that will be needed. .

    Fairco enough.
    Not clear if you intend to put opes at the top of the two side panels.
    If you do maybe have them open in and that will allow two things.
    1. The French doors to open full back, (almost to the wall), assuming they are fitted far enough out on the wall.
    2. Insect screens to be fitted to outside of the opes.

    Two ideas from two mistakes I made in 1998

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    Fairco enough.
    Not clear if you intend to put opes at the top of the two side panels.
    If you do maybe have them open in and that will allow two things.
    1. The French doors to open full back, (almost to the wall), assuming they are fitted far enough out on the wall.
    2. Insect screens to be fitted to outside of the opes.

    Two ideas from two mistakes I made in 1998

    :p

    Yeah, I plan to have openings alright. I just hadn't decided what way I want them to open, top, bottom, half, or the whole thing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    So here's the rework. I left the gutters out of the drawing, as this will be left to the builder.

    The side windows...the OH has asked that the whole window can open. Maybe tomorrow I will get on about a quote.

    reworked.jpg


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Tilt and turn option for the side windows.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,888 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    kceire wrote: »
    Tilt and turn option for the side windows.
    +1 bearing in mind the issues with blinds/curtains, birthday streamers!

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    kceire wrote: »
    Tilt and turn option for the side windows.

    Yes, that's what she wants


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    https://www.donedeal.ie/view/15084386
    Aluminium Bifolding Doors


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    So the foundations are in place. I now have to decide on insulation. The internal footprint to fill is 5x5m and it is an average 350mm depth (sloping from 300mm to 400mm). I calculate that at cubic metres. I think 2 cubic metres of that will be the concrete screed. Any opinions on type of insulation and how much of?

    Considering geocell foam glass


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    goz83 wrote: »
    So the foundations are in place. I now have to decide on insulation. The internal footprint to fill is 5x5m and it is an average 350mm depth (sloping from 300mm to 400mm). I calculate that at cubic metres. I think 2 cubic metres of that will be the concrete screed. Any opinions on type of insulation and how much of?

    Considering geocell foam glass

    I put 120mm Xtratherm PIR into mine yesterday.
    150mm of concrete slab
    Heavy gauge membrane or radon barrier
    50mm blinding
    SR21 Complinant stone full underneath with radon sump and outlet, so your 3-400mm Void will fill up quickly.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    kceire wrote: »
    I put 120mm Xtratherm PIR into mine yesterday.
    150mm of concrete slab
    Heavy gauge membrane or radon barrier
    50mm blinding
    SR21 Complinant stone full underneath with radon sump and outlet, so your 3-400mm Boise will fill up quickly.

    You installed radon sump - What size is the extension?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    I was thinking of throwing 3 Tonnes of hardcore in to level it. Then 3 cubic metres the geocell stuff, which seems to have really good properties to reduce heat loss. It compacts at 3:1. I suppose the rest would be concrete on top, as I don't think I would need more insulation......but will work out the sums in my head tomorrow


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    BryanF wrote: »
    You installed radon sump - What size is the extension?

    4.5x5.2 (external)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    Going to go ahead with 120mm xtratherm thin-r. The Geocell stuff looked promising but after being compacted...not so much.

    So we have maybe 2 tonnes of rubble to compact and then another 2 Tonnes of hardcore will go on top. 10 sheets of insulation for the floor and cold bridging. Finally 120mm (or 3m3) will form the concrete screed and complete the slab. That should be done early next week. Man Flu has slowed things down a bit. :rolleyes:


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Don't forget your 25mm perimeter strips


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    kceire wrote: »
    Don't forget your 25mm perimeter strips

    Is it ok to use the 120mm as perimeter strips?

    If not, I will order 1 less 120 sheet


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    goz83 wrote: »
    Is it ok to use the 120mm as perimeter strips?

    If not, I will order 1 less 120 sheet

    120mm is too thick imo.
    How are you insulating the walls?

    If you use 120, you will have an area under the floors that is insulation only so can compress and cause cracks on tiles etc

    I haven't come across anything more than 25mm in my lifetime.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    kceire wrote: »
    120mm is too thick imo.
    How are you insulating the walls?

    If you use 120, you will have an area under the floors that is insulation only so can compress and cause cracks on tiles etc

    I haven't come across anything more than 25mm in my lifetime.

    That was a brain fart. I knew it as I hit submit, but was rushing out the door. 25mm it will be for the sides.

    Not sure what thickness is planned for wall insulation yet.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    goz83 wrote: »
    That was a brain fart. I knew it as I hit submit, but was rushing out the door. 25mm it will be for the sides.

    Not sure what thickness is planned for wall insulation yet.

    Think about cables, wires, sockets etc
    Most people stick on 100mm plasterboard then the sparks tears chunks out of it.

    Me personally, I am 99% sure I will have the following wall section :

    External dash
    215mm sold block on flat (already laid to wall plate level)
    Sand/cement render internally
    75mm PIR mushroom fixed to wall.
    50x50 battens fixed through to wall.
    Then plasterboard fixed to the battens.

    The battens create a service void and the thermal layer remains unaltered.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    The solids are laid flat up to the existing floor level. The drainage pipes and a pipe for the gas will run into position before the slab is laid. The walls are to be cavity block and I had thought to create a void between the brick and insulation. Makes it easier to run cables too.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    Just thought I would update this. The work is ongoing. Between builder holidays, sickness and weather, it's been slow. Budget has been reigned in too and I've had to make a couple of smart choices and a couple of difficult ones. The joys of building eh?

    So, the walls are up and some steel for the windows and doors. The wood work of the roof is done with 18mm OSB3 laid and the roof window upstands are in position. The fibre glass kit arrived on Wednesday and we have had nothing but unpredictable and wet weather! So the roof has been covered in plastic and hopefully tomorrow is the day we can lay the roof. The wiring is in place for lights and sockets too.

    The big change has been the kitchen design. We are not opening the wall and inserting steel. The disruption and expense are a stretch too far at this time. It would mean taking out the existing kitchen and getting someone in to move the gas boiler. We would then need a new kitchen because the room dynamic would be changed (which was the original plan tbf). The planned under the stairs WC will not be getting a shower, because that space was going to extend into the existing kitchen to fit the shower. Instead, the existing kitchen will remain in place with some modifications and additions, connecting the existing kitchen to some additional counter top space in the extension. I haven't sat down to figure it out just yet.

    Fingers crossed the weather is good tomorrow and we can press ahead with the roof and finally get the roof windows on. I expect to order the windows and doors tomorrow or soon after. There seems to be some question about the fact that I want tilt and turn windows that are approx 1700mm tall (a problem with one supplier) and 1125mm wide (a problem with a different supplier, who also recommended toughened glass).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    2018 update.

    At a snails pace, the work goes on. The project is much further along now.

    photobucket stopped hosting images, so here is the external plan I drew up.
    [IMG]https://image.ibb.co/d9HdOb/extension_draft.jpg" alt="extension_draft" border="15">[/IMG]

    And here is the back yard before work began. Pic was taken from the house. You can see the shed, most of which was knocked down.
    Pic taken 28th April 2017
    4281.jpg

    Ground was broke May 1st. Access was an issue, so this was all done manually. The rubble and soil was barrowed through the side entrance, along with almost all materials coming to site.
    Brother is a diggin'
    5011.jpg


    Almost there with the digging!
    5021.jpg
    The boundary wall was left alone for as long as possible to keep the neighbour happy. So we still had another 6 linear metres to dig out.

    9th May some bricks arrive. Most are barrowed out the back that day.
    5092.jpg

    And a few days later, some concrete.
    5093.jpg
    It was poured, worked and left to dry for a few days.


    May 11th and some more work is done on the foundations.
    5111.jpg


    Demolishing the wall was good fun. This was done on the 16th.
    5161.jpg

    And gone.
    5162.jpg

    Within a couple of days, the rest of the boundary foundations were dug and poured. A temporary fence was erected between the gardens.
    IMG_2660.jpg

    More later


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    7 June
    The hardcore getting laid. Sand would go on soon after. The grey water pipe can be seen running through the foundation.
    IMG_2668.jpg

    8 June
    Down goes the insulation. A nice easy job for once.
    IMG_2670.jpg

    Damp proof membrane and steel is laid. The steel would be raised up and tied before concrete was laid.
    IMG_2671.jpg

    9 June
    The concrete arrived and is barrowed out to the site. I supervised the pour and two of the lads barrowed it to the FIL, who worked the concrete. My sums were spot on…with only 2 barrows left over.
    IMG_2672.jpg

    Polishing the slab.
    IMG_2674.jpg

    5 July
    The frame to support the windows and French doors is up.
    IMG_2772.jpg

    8 July
    The roof beams went up about a week before. The OSB boards getting cut and fit into position.
    IMG_2776.jpg

    The upstands and fillets getting screwed into position.
    IMG_2778.jpg

    The rain had been pouring. Plastic sheeting covers the roof. The washing was kept dry though.
    IMG_2799.jpg

    24 July
    The big day. The fibre glass roof got installed. I went for a thick matt suitable for walking on. The process took a few hours. I was mixing resin and the others installed. After it dried, it was sanded down and any patches were redone. It is a messy job and the protective gear is a must.
    IMG_2823.jpg

    25 July
    The top coat went on. This was easy work compared to the previous day. It dried just in time for the rain that day.
    IMG_2825.jpg

    27 July
    The windows were installed. These were a pig to get onto the roof and left me wishing I had ordered smaller ones. Access was restricted, because the shed remained standing…which we needed for storage. We erected scaffolding and worked the windows up through the openings. Once there, the rest was easy.
    IMG_2827.jpg

    The old shed was gutted.
    History: I remember when the thing was getting built nearly 30 years ago. It was used as my base when I was a kid. A karate and dance studio. Band practice, drinking, smoking and ahem….cuddling. It later became a home for my Gran and later my sister and her partner. The graffiti is from before it was domesticated. My late brother was a Jean Claude Van Damme fan.
    IMG_2946.jpg

    20 Oct
    A view of the side entrance. The floor needs to be raised a couple of feet.
    IMG_3083.jpg

    The Father in Law started to build the pond. This was not in the agreement, but I was mighty delighted he took it on. This image shows the completed block work and the bottom drain. The return jet can be seen in the right of the image.
    IMG_3084.jpg


    Unfortunately, I have no images handy of the rest of the work, but I will endeavour to update these over the weekend.

    The inside has been insulated and the lights are in place. The windows and doors are in place too. The outside has been raised to just below the door level. The shed was knocked (mostly) and we now have a smaller shed for storage. The pond and extension have been rendered. I have been several months waiting for a few dry days to fibreglass the pond.

    The yard is now paved and the old side entrance is kitted out with lots of shelving for more storage. I have the kitchen waiting for installation and the floor too.

    The old back window and French doors are still in place and will be taken out soon (hopefully).

    When it’s all done, I will put together a small website with much more detail and costs.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    About bleeding time :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    kceire wrote: »
    About bleeding time :p

    Someone requested the update....i would have waited until it was finished....sometime after I get my model 3 :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,378 ✭✭✭✭jimmycrackcorm


    Thanks for the update, great to see the photos up, appreciate the effort. I'm curious about your decision to go for the flat roof - was this based on cost and do you think that it will need significant maintenance down the line (20 years).
    Also what do you think the cost will come to overall?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Model 3, third wife?


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    That's not a warm roof, and it doesn't look as though you retained an air cavity.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    That's not a warm roof, and it doesn't look as though you retained an air cavity.

    +1

    Cavity blocks & dry-lining, not great either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    Thanks for the update, great to see the photos up, appreciate the effort. I'm curious about your decision to go for the flat roof - was this based on cost and do you think that it will need significant maintenance down the line (20 years).
    Also what do you think the cost will come to overall?

    I went with the flat roof in the end because I just preferred it. It was costing less too which turned out to be a big plus. I wanted a flat ceiling too and it just made more sense in my head. I also liked the idea of being able to use the flat roof to put a couple of plant boxes up there to grow some strawberries.

    The GRP roofs are supposed to last a very long time...20+ years. This of course depends on the install. I went for a thick fibreglass matting which is suitable for walking on. It won't get much walking on at all, so I expect it will last many, many years before any maintenance is needed.

    The overall cost (including labour) to date has been ~27k (13 labour and 14 materials), but I will update when all is done. I am lucky enough that it is family doing the work, so I will fairly separate materials and labour at the end. Most of the cost will be materials. The overall cost will be under 30k I suspect....so pretty good.
    Water John wrote: »
    Model 3, third wife?

    kceire would know it is an electric car. We frequent the ev forum.
    sydthebeat wrote: »
    That's not a warm roof, and it doesn't look as though you retained an air cavity.

    So from what I can remember, the FIL ran some timber across the joists on the inside of the build and ran the wiring for the lights over those. The insulation boards were screwed up to the ceiling and plastic plug things were used for the walls. After that was done, there was a concern with the down-lighters and he decided to erect a sub ceiling a couple of inches below the original one and he covered the cost of that himself.

    I can't speak much about warm roofs or dry lining, but I can say that even though the extension is still essentially separate from the main house, it is not a cold place at all. It doesn't yet have any heating, but it's well insulated. I've spent hours out there doing a few light jobs and haven't wanted more than a t-shirt to keep me comfortable. The FIL has constructed a few buildings in his time and aside from his pace and refusal to eat anything other than cheese sandwiches for lunch, I have no complaints. :P


    So, I just took a few more pics there.

    Jan 2018
    Standing at the existing french doors, this is the current view. I got the big windows I wanted and they are tilt and turn.
    IMG_3359.jpg


    A view from the centre left. You can see the level of the ground has been brought up. The pond level is about a foot lower than the new ground level.
    IMG_3354.jpg


    The slabs are reclaimed sandstone and they are exactly what I wanted. Got them for €15 per metre from a done deal ad. I got over 20m for €300. They are proper thick stock and are very heavy. I have yet to clean and seal them.
    The shed was set back a few feet, so about 35% of the original footprint is there. The pond capping was concrete poured and the internal render is waterproof...but I will be fibre-glassing it.
    IMG_3355.jpg


    Gutters, fascia and render is up. Will paint render but maybe in the future will do something else. The cat likes it :)
    IMG_3356.jpg


    This view is standing at the door of the side entrance looking toward the shed. You can see the original ground level and how much it was raised. I didn't want to have a step going from the french doors into the back yard. The boundary walls are still 6+ feet above ground level. The hose is there because the pond is filling up with the rain and I siphon it out, hoping to get a few dry days so I can do the lining.
    IMG_3357.jpg


    A view into the side entrance. I had my Brother put these shelves up. Great for holding some tools and most of the stuff we had in the shed. When the cement mixer and bikes are not there, it's not so cluttered looking and I can actually find my tools!!! Something I was never able to do in the cluttered shed.
    IMG_3358.jpg


    That's all for now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,797 ✭✭✭scwazrh


    kceire wrote: »
    Under 5k means you have to forget about bi-fold (like your pic). Alu-clad is probably out too. PVC or aluminum is possible (nothing wrong with either imo).

    I done this recently

    6FBB149C-3E95-4AA6-B3A2-1417530B2855.jpg

    678D6A8E-7E93-4AD5-B2C2-EB87EA4004D3.jpg

    Alluminium but close to 10k worth.

    Would you be good enough to answer a couple of questions on that roof as its something I can't get a straight answer on from our architect.
    Is there any steel used in the roof ?
    Is there any support for the ridge board above the doors?
    With no collar ties , what did the roofers do to stop spread of the roof?


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,351 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    scwazrh wrote: »
    Would you be good enough to answer a couple of questions on that roof as its something I can't get a straight answer on from our architect.
    Is there any steel used in the roof ?
    Is there any support for the ridge board above the doors?
    With no collar ties , what did the roofers do to stop spread of the roof?

    5k worth of steel gone into that extension.
    No ridge beam required. We used steel box sections as wall plates which were connected to the columns at the new doors and the existing house.

    Basically the roof loading is onto the steel wall plates and the walls are just filling in the space.

    Your engineer should be advising you here, not your architect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,035 ✭✭✭goz83


    So there have been a few changes since January. In the pictures I previously posted, you can see clutter in the extension. That is mostly the used kitchen I picked up from done deal for €300 :D. Was in perfect nick and was a great match for the existing kitchen, plus I got way more than I needed. This was installed in Feb. The laminate floor and skirting went in during March and I fixed up some of the lighting connections, because the switches were not in sequence for the 3 sets and 2 of the lights were on the wrong sets (OCD :D).

    Over the Easter, myself and my son painted the walls, ceiling and skirting. I went off and picked up and installed the coving myself. Was pretty impressed with the result. It is a light weight stuff from woodies (super cove) and the mitre block made it easy enough to do the corners. 60 quid for 24m plus adhesive at 12 quid.

    The counter tops were different in the new kitchen addition and these were to be joined, connecting the 2 rooms. So the options were:
    a) get a new counter top for the lot.
    b) tile them counter tops.
    c) experimental resin counter top.

    I didn't want to waste the existing tops, so I ruled out (a). I hadn't the balls to try (c) so I went with (b) and picked up 600x600 polished porcelain on special at €10 per yard and tiled the counter top myself. The FIL had oak available which I used to face the edges. I even found time to rewrap the cat scratch post with fresh rope :)

    Some pics I just took.

    Entering from the hallway. I still need to skim/paint the viewing window, but thats a small job. See cat scratcher bottom right.
    IMG_3510.jpg

    Standing at entrance to new room. The old french doors are insstalled on the shed....which needs rendering, along with the pond.
    IMG_3514.jpg

    The clutter in the corner is where the washing machine and dryer will be going.
    IMG_3515.jpg

    A closer look at my handy work.
    IMG_3516.jpg

    The cats don't mind the yard being a mess.
    IMG_3518.jpg

    So, once the washing mach and dryer are put in, with a side panel and maybe a door to enclose them, the extension....soon to known as the dining room (maybe) will be finished.

    In the main kitchen area, I want to build a computer desk and coat cabinet against the wall you can see in the second last picture where the radiator and clothes horse is. I noticed the main kitchen area looks very dark in a couple of the pictures. While it is of course darker than the extended room, it's not as dark as it looks in the pics. The first pic is a more accurate reflection of the light, but even that looks darker than in reality.

    For the yard, the shed and pond need to be skimmed. The pond needs to be fibre-glassed and window installed. I need to build the bio filter and finish pondering about the lights I plan to make for it.

    edited to add: Cost hasn't gone up much either. Materials are not much over 15k. It's at 15250 by my calcs and no extra labour charges (which are part time and some of it DIY), so we are at around 28k


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