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>600cc as a first bike, plus opinions needed - NEWB

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭Trigger76


    Cheers man, plenty of Bandits about for sure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,068 ✭✭✭Nesta99


    CaptainR wrote: »
    Just about pre 2000 bikes, They nearly all had carbs so there's gummed up carbs to deal with.

    Damn carbs!! Even motorcycles have struggle with them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,001 ✭✭✭Peanut2011


    I've started on the Bandit 600. Never regretted it.

    I had to restrict it to be legal at the time but still found it great. For starter bike I would always suggest the bike with no fairings. As novice you will make silly mistakes, last thing you want is the cost of replacing fairings.

    They won't be as nice for motorway riding but until you build up experience that would be my suggestion from my experience.

    Also, I can tell you that hight wise, Bandit will be fine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭gonko


    Peanut2011 wrote: »
    I've started on the Bandit 600. Never regretted it.

    I had to restrict it to be legal at the time but still found it great. For starter bike I would always suggest the bike with no fairings. As novice you will make silly mistakes, last thing you want is the cost of replacing fairings.

    They won't be as nice for motorway riding but until you build up experience that would be my suggestion from my experience.

    Also, I can tell you that hight wise, Bandit will be fine.

    Is it a given that a bike will be dropped starting off? Are there any fittings I can get to stop the damage. I heard of crash bobbins (or something like that)?
    Also, would I be better to buy up the North or the UK and VRT it here. From a value/spend POV. I got my lid up North yesterday. Still need to pick up other bits, and hope ot have the IBT booked and done this month.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,030 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    gonko wrote: »
    Is it a given that a bike will be dropped starting off? Are there any fittings I can get to stop the damage. I heard of crash bobbins (or something like that)?
    Also, would I be better to buy up the North or the UK and VRT it here. From a value/spend POV. I got my lid up North yesterday. Still need to pick up other bits, and hope ot have the IBT booked and done this month.

    Yes fit crash bobbins or bars. You can get crank case protection also. If not fitted buy some ASAP.

    More selection in the UK but you won't be able to ride home so will have to be bought blind and transported here for you. UK dealers are usually upfront with the bikes but even the best get stung.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    Not a given, I didn't drop it nor did many others. But there are 2 types of riders, those who have fallen and those who are going to fall. I wish I had bobbins for my first timpiste on my second bike.


  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭Trigger76


    zubair wrote: »
    timpiste
    :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 849 ✭✭✭Blanchy90


    Trigger76 wrote: »
    Thanks lads appreciate the replies. The forum is great, very friendly have to say, things seem to have changed a lot around bikes in the last 15 years or so.



    Cheers Blanchy for the info looks like your spot on there, if I do end up with one, whilst not a huge deal I guess, my preference would be to test on a bike I have 8-10 months under me.

    Thanks again appreciate all the info and experience people have shared on all the newb threads.


    I talked to my instructor yesterday and he said the the SV650 is fine for the A licence, we checked the list on the rsa website and it says its fine too. I mush have looked at an old list before that said it wasnt suitable


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,252 ✭✭✭COH


    Blanchy90 wrote: »
    I talked to my instructor yesterday and he said the the SV650 is fine for the A licence, we checked the list on the rsa website and it says its fine too. I mush have looked at an old list before that said it wasnt suitable

    Did my test for the A licence on an SV - 100% fine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,749 ✭✭✭Beta Ray Bill


    OP

    The bike to buy is Suzuki SV650S (faired model)

    I've avoid the fazer (Or any other in-line) engine for the moment until you figure out what's what.

    The SV650S doesn't have huge HP but it has great torque and engine breaking.
    It's quite comfortable and parts are cheap (in the event you drop it)

    This is the bike I learned on.
    IMO V2's are the easiest type of engine to learn on.

    I liked the V2's so much I went on to 1190 RC8R after the SV.

    G.


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  • Site Banned Posts: 1,765 ✭✭✭Pugzilla




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,445 ✭✭✭run_Forrest_run


    grahambo wrote: »
    OP


    I've avoid the fazer (Or any other in-line) engine for the moment until you figure out what's what.

    I don't mean to go wildly off topic but why do you say that? Is it about power delivery/handling? BTW I'm not even a bike owner (yet) but I love discussions like this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,882 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

    I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey


    I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

    if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it


    it is important to be on a forgiving bike as your first one but at the same time one that won't teach you to be whacking open the throttle whenever you feel like it

    so that could be what graham is getting at


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,749 ✭✭✭Beta Ray Bill


    Pugzilla wrote: »

    Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
    I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
    They are immensely powerful.
    I don't mean to go wildly off topic but why do you say that? Is it about power delivery/handling? BTW I'm not even a bike owner (yet) but I love discussions like this.

    Power delivery and torque

    On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
    This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

    In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
    You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,936 ✭✭✭stewygriffin


    grahambo wrote: »
    Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
    I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
    They are immensely powerful.



    Power delivery and torque

    On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
    This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

    In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
    You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.



    Have you tried her in full on "slick" mode yet?


    Turns a fast bike into an animal of a bike.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,030 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

    I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey


    I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

    if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it


    it is important to be on a forgiving bike as your first one but at the same time one that won't teach you to be whacking open the throttle whenever you feel like it

    so that could be what graham is getting at

    Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

    A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,749 ✭✭✭Beta Ray Bill


    Have you tried her in full on "slick" mode yet?


    Turns a fast bike into an animal of a bike.;)

    Dealer told me NOT to put it in slick unless I had a slick tyre on it.

    I've tried user mode. Launch control is mental! (Hold the f**k on!)
    Del2005 wrote: »
    Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

    A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.

    True at lot of the 2014 and up bikes have some some degree of Traction control.
    However they are generally the guts of €15,000 for a 2/3 year old 1000cc super bike. not the kind of money you'd want to spend on learning to drive.

    Traction control might get you out of a hairy situation, then again it might not. I've had a few slides on the S1000RR even in rain mode, when it's been very wet.
    You need the experience gained on a smaller more controllable bike to know what to do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,127 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Yesterday in the wet I spun up my pilot road 4 rear (a good wet tyre..) by rolling on a little too much while coming out of a bend

    I probably left a little line on the road and continued on with my journey

    I'm on an sv650 that has a very predictable powerband

    if I'd done the same thing on a 1000* i4 I could have given myself a little highside and maybe or maybe not have saved it

    I think those too-much-throttle-out-of-corner situations (where you're at least prepared for some acceleration and are looking in the right direction) are less of an issue than the properly accidental throttle applications happening under duress in traffic or due to total lack of coordination due to being a **** noob.

    There have been a couple of times on my 700 where I've just had a brain fart and wanged the throttle a bit for no reason whatsoever.

    I'm hoping that just goes away in time. :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,882 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    Del2005 wrote: »
    Most modern 1000cc 4cyl bikes have traction control and different power settings. So on an S1000RR you wouldn't have spun the rear.

    A big bike is easy to ride at low speeds and any bike can go fast enough to get you in trouble. A friend had an original R1 and that would easily do 50km/h in top gear and it could also scare you, but without training and experience you can scare yourself on a moped.
    ah so what you're saying is I need to get an s1000rr... I agree :D
    Lumen wrote: »
    I think those too-much-throttle-out-of-corner situations (where you're at least prepared for some acceleration and are looking in the right direction) are less of an issue than the properly accidental throttle applications happening under duress in traffic or due to total lack of coordination due to being a **** noob.

    There have been a couple of times on my 700 where I've just had a brain fart and wanged the throttle a bit for no reason whatsoever.

    I'm hoping that just goes away in time. :rolleyes:

    remind me never to queue up in front of you at the lights! :pac:


  • Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭ Laylah Embarrassed Grocer


    grahambo wrote: »
    Do not buy a 1000cc bike as your first bike. You will die. :pac::eek:
    I own one of these, cracking bike but would not recommend a person learn on one of these.
    They are immensely powerful.



    Power delivery and torque

    On V2/V4 it's smooth to about 2/3 of the way up and there's lots of torque
    This means ya don't need to worry to much about gears. Power delivery is very predictable.

    In lines have lots of BHP, but not as much torque, you need to be in the right gear at the right time. and the power is kind of "all at once".
    You need to keep the revs up, especially on a 600cc engine.

    Don't agree on the 600cc revs, il start off by saying I hate , absolutely hate driving in the rain. I've come off before years ago in the rain.

    The absolute last thing I would be doing on my gsxr in the rain is keeping it high revs, it's perfectly commutable in the rain at 4-5k revs everywhere in any gear from 1-4.

    It scares the **** changing gear at 10k revs in the dry let alone 16k, I see no need to go above 5 in the rain.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,749 ✭✭✭Beta Ray Bill


    Don't agree on the 600cc revs, il start off by saying I hate , absolutely hate driving in the rain. I've come off before years ago in the rain.

    The absolute last thing I would be doing on my gsxr in the rain is keeping it high revs, it's perfectly commutable in the rain at 4-5k revs everywhere in any gear from 1-4.

    It scares the **** changing gear at 10k revs in the dry let alone 16k, I see no need to go above 5 in the rain.

    Interesting

    I felt on my R6 that there was no power at the bottom, It was all mid-top to top end. If you went up a gear to early you'd lose power. V2's are a lot more forgiving.


  • Site Banned Posts: 1,765 ✭✭✭Pugzilla


    A 1000cc V-twin is less forgiving than an equivalent inline 4.

    V twins have loads of torque down low, power comes in much earlier in the rev range. Accidental application of the throttle on a big twin can get you into trouble very quickly compared to a four cylinder.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,452 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Pugzilla wrote: »
    A 1000cc V-twin is less forgiving than an equivalent inline 4.

    V twins have loads of torque down low, power comes in much earlier in the rev range. Accidental application of the throttle on a big twin can get you into trouble very quickly compared to a four cylinder.

    I can vouch for that.
    A lad I know that has an R6 sat on my Mille one day as I was talking to another few lads.

    Next I hear it starting.
    Then he puts it into gear, winds the throttle like he would on his R6.
    Bike shoots off and nearly spits him off,he then grabs a handful of the front brake and he nearly goes over the handle bars.
    All this in a split second!

    He gets off the bike and says to me 'take that thing away from me before I get killed!'

    He hasn't gone near it since,he just says that's some bike lad!!:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,936 ✭✭✭stewygriffin


    As the late Terry Wogan once said................................


    "Slow and steady wins the race".


  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭gonko


    So I completed the IBT today on a Kawasaki ZR-7 (750cc) and over the past two days have been learning all things two wheels. I never thought that two days ago I would be able to go on the road in traffic, on dual carriage-ways etc. I shocked myself.

    Now I am still needing work on certain areas etc. I felt somewhat comfortable on the bike, if a little detached at times. It felt somewhat predictable after a while. One thing that stood out what the response of the throttle :eek: . I had to relly concentrate to keep everything under control. But it was fun and we even ended up on some twisties for a while (even hit some chippings in the road!!!!).

    Now I have been scouring DD and cannot find a bike that seems good at the right price. I am looking at Fazer 600's, ER6-F's (fairly overpriced) and some SV 650's (mixed bag of nice ones, crap ones and overpriced ones maybe).

    Any other bike suggestions. I like sporty looking bikes or ones with sharpish lines with fairings ideally.


  • Registered Users Posts: 183 ✭✭micknail


    gonko wrote: »
    Now I have been scouring DD and cannot find a bike that seems good at the right price. I am looking at Fazer 600's, ER6-F's (fairly overpriced) and some SV 650's (mixed bag of nice ones, crap ones and overpriced ones maybe).

    Any other bike suggestions. I like sporty looking bikes or ones with sharpish lines with fairings ideally.

    I'm in the same position as you gonko, very small bike market here compared to UK.
    I would like a Honda cbr650f or Yam Xj6 div f.
    Autotrader.co.uk is probably the answer!


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