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HKC alarm install

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  • 08-06-2017 5:17am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭


    Hi,

    I'm installing my house alarm and would like some advice on zone identification and wiring of devices.

    Currently I have 9 zone identified:

    Zone 1: Main entrance
    Devices: 1 magnetic contact and 1 pir in hallway

    Zone 2: 2 windows
    Devices: 2 inertia with contacts

    Zone 3: 2 windows
    Devices: 2 inertia with contacts

    Zone 4: 2 small windows, 1 large window with 2 openings
    Devices: 2 inertia with contact, 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contact

    Zone 5: French double doors
    Devices: 1 inertia with contact

    Zone 6: 2 large windows with 2 openings and 1 set of French doors
    Devices: 2 inertia, 4 magnetic contacts, 1 inertia with contact

    Zone 7: 1 large window with 2 openings
    Devices: 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contacts

    Zone 8: Back door
    Devices: 1 inertia with contact

    Zone 9: 1 large window with 2 openings
    Devices: 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contacts

    Does this look like a reasonable zone layout?

    Also on the wiring side, is it ok to wire inertia and magnetic contacts in series or is it better to use different zones even though devices are in same room?

    The panel I bought is the HKC 1070 hybrid panel.


    Thanks in advance.


«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    That looks fairly well split up. If cabling allows it would be nice to split up the sensors and contacts. This would require an expander to give you more zones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,092 ✭✭✭db


    Your Zone 1 has a magnetic contact and a PIR. Would it not be better to split these so you can set the alarm just on the perimeter while you are in the house?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I read that as being separate zones, sorry.
    PiRs should always have their zone either way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    KoolKid wrote: »
    That looks fairly well split up. If cabling allows it would be nice to split up the sensors and contacts. This would require an expander to give you more zones.


    8 core cable is used throughout. Does that mean say zone 6 which is a sunroom would have 2 separate zones, one for inertia's and the other for window/door contacts?


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    db wrote: »
    Your Zone 1 has a magnetic contact and a PIR. Would it not be better to split these so you can set the alarm just on the perimeter while you are in the house?


    Good idea, thanks. The house is prewired for perimeter alarm installation. No pir's were wired for. Is it a good idea to add in some pir's or can I leave them out altogether?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Yes you could split that zone using the 8 core cable.
    You should definitely have at least one PiR on any system.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Good idea, thanks. The house is prewired for perimeter alarm installation. No pir's were wired for. Is it a good idea to add in some pir's or can I leave them out altogether?

    You can leave them out but they are recommended to be used as a back up to any system.
    If its a 10/70 you would have the option to add wire free devices, wire free PIR in your case if its not wired.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    Zone 5 and zone 7 are both in the kitchen/dining area. Would it be a bad idea to have just 1 zone and using the last 2 zones to split the magnetic contacts onto. This would eliminate the need for the expander unit.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I would leave them as is.Splitting the zones up by room rather than sensor/contact. There is not a lot on either zone so it won't make fault finding much harder.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Zone 5 and zone 7 are both in the kitchen/dining area. Would it be a bad idea to have just 1 zone and using the last 2 zones to split the magnetic contacts onto. This would eliminate the need for the expander unit.

    You could also use point I'd sensors as opposed to global sensors. You could have 10 points on zones 5,6, That's 20 sensors that can be identified by each device on separate points. Also if you did do that you could come off the upstairs loop and add a point I'd motion for the landing. Much cheaper than adding a wire free motion.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    altor wrote: »
    You could also use point I'd sensors as opposed to global sensors. You could have 10 points on zones 5,6, That's 20 sensors that can be identified by each device on separate points. Also if you did do that you could come off the upstairs loop and add a point I'd motion for the landing. Much cheaper than adding a wire free motion.

    You can't beat HKC for flexibility :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    So I start


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    So I started installing the devices and initial wiring yesterday. Very slow and tedious work so far.

    A lot of the cables to the windows are cut so short that I have to connect cable to even reach the first device.

    Do you need to put 2 resistors in the magnetic contacts if it is the only device on the zone?

    Also can someone put up a drawing for an inertia and 2 magnetic contacts in series to see if I'm on track. Currently I'm using 3 cores black red and blue. Blue is looped through the n/c on the magnetic contacts with black and red joined on spare terminals in each. I'm a little unsure about the inertias as I'm finding loads of different wiring configurations.

    Thanks


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    So I started installing the devices and initial wiring yesterday. Very slow and tedious work so far.

    A lot of the cables to the windows are cut so short that I have to connect cable to even reach the first device.

    Do you need to put 2 resistors in the magnetic contacts if it is the only device on the zone?



    If its the only device yes. One in series & one parallel across the contact.
    See disgram below

    419624.jpg


    Also can someone put up a drawing for an inertia and 2 magnetic contacts in series to see if I'm on track. Currently I'm using 3 cores black red and blue. Blue is looped through the n/c on the magnetic contacts with black and red joined on spare terminals in each. I'm a little unsure about the inertias as I'm finding loads of different wiring configurations.

    Thanks

    419623.jpg

    From the panel wire blues in series through all the tampers.
    Wire the reds in series through contacts & sensors & wire black to extend the second resistor back to the panel into the same terminal as the red.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    The magnetic contacts I'm using only has a reed switch, no tamper contacts. Will this matter when using the resistors?

    Can I join the red and black at first device rather than at panel as shown in your diagram?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    The magnetic contacts I'm using only has a reed switch, no tamper contacts. Will this matter when using the resistors?

    No, just connect all the tampers together.
    Can I join the red and black at first device rather than at panel as shown in your diagram?

    Yes you can, just be sure all alarm contacts are within the 4k7 parallel resistor.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    Are devices with a single device like a magnetic contact configured to dual eol or single eol on keypad? All zones are wired with 2 resistors on last device.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    If there are 2 resistors the zone hardware should be configured for Duel EOL.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    Where does the tamper for the internal sounder go in panel?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    Into AUX tamper or in series with the external bell tamper is best.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Where does the tamper for the internal sounder go in panel?

    Can be put into a zone tamper or in series with the tamper return off the external bell.


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    Just powered up the system this evening. I seem to have one fault with the external bell tamper. I broke the yellow cable going to the external bell in the panel and put the tamper from the internal bell in series. Anyone come across this before? Also is there anyway to disable the internal/external bell before I try removing the panel cover?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Just powered up the system this evening. I seem to have one fault with the external bell tamper. I broke the yellow cable going to the external bell in the panel and put the tamper from the internal bell in series. Anyone come across this before? Also is there anyway to disable the internal/external bell before I try removing the panel cover?

    What type bell have you installed?
    Have you only one resistor 4k7 installed in the bell?


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    altor wrote: »
    What type bell have you installed?
    Have you only one resistor 4k7 installed in the bell?

    Thanks for quick reply. It's the hkc external sounder with strobe. It had a resistor in the bell box and the panel had one across the TR and BHC connections.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Thanks for quick reply. It's the hkc external sounder with strobe. It had a resistor in the bell box and the panel had one across the TR and BHC connections.

    You should have one in the bell only.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 24,789 Mod ✭✭✭✭KoolKid


    I'd say it was closed off with the one in the panel because the external bell tamper was giving trouble


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    altor wrote: »
    You should have one in the bell only.

    Ok thanks I'll take it out in the morning. One more thing, the engineer code 4567 does not seem to be working. The user code 1111 is working ok.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Ok thanks I'll take it out in the morning. One more thing, the engineer code 4567 does not seem to be working. The user code 1111 is working ok.

    Strange, was it a new panel?
    04567 authorized by 1111


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    KoolKid wrote: »
    I'd say it was closed off with the one in the panel because the external bell tamper was giving trouble

    It's a brand new system I'm installing.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    It's a brand new system I'm installing.

    The new system should have a resistor in place.


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