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Home heating automation

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,077 ✭✭✭hunter164


    Lads, I’m in the market for a wifi enabled 2 channel time clock.

    I’m not interested in smart stats etc. I have underfloor heating installed and set to how I like it and the upstairs is set too.

    All I’m looking for is the capability to turn on my heating remotely through the time clock and I can’t seem to find just that on the internet searches, might just be my bad searching.


    But any recommendations are welcome, thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    SonOff dual channel wifi switch, use app, alexa, Google etc.

    https://sonoff.tech/uncategorized/dualr2/



  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭limktime


    Does anyone here know if a wired tado setup can be controlled from a tado wireless thermostat?

    Basically, I've got the tado Wired Smart Thermostat Starter Kit (with an additonal wired thermostat for a second zone). What I want to know is, if I get a wireless thermostat and place it in a room, can it link to one of the wired thermostats to trigger the heating depending on the temp in that room rather than going by the temp on the wired thermostat?

    I've looked around a good bit online and can't seem to find the answer. Hopefully someone here will know. Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Insofar as you can trigger the wired stat to call the general zone heating by linked TRVs in other rooms, and it is possible to have a wireless sensor stat designated as the temperature measuring device for the TRV to give more accurate readings, I don't see any great reason why such a stat can not be used as standalone to call the boiler via the wired stat. Once the sensor stat has been configured to use the wired stat as its 'zone controller', then it should call the boiler on it's behalf. I couldn't say though if the sensor stat absolutely has to have a TRV slaved to it, and it acting as the TRV temperature measuring device.

    On the nitty gritty of the configuration of the wired stat, I think, iirc, that it was possible to make this stat solely a relay for the boiler in the stats own configuration by stat push buttons,, but that's another discussion.

    Your query arose years ago, before contactless sensor wall stats went on the market. The original wired stat could be configured as wireless, but always needed the ext kit to function. A solution adopted by a few users documented here or on AV forums Tado thread, I can't remember, was to use TRV'S unmounted, simply sat on a shelf as a sensor, thus instructing the main wired stat to fire. Someone even fabricated a nice mounting for them, as if they were attached to a TRV valve. They would initially require this on a real valve when powered up, in order to calibrate the pin and OK the stat to the system. They could then be unscrewed and placed wherever you wanted an additional source to fire the boiler.

    I was thinking of buying a sensor stat for this purpose myself, as the master bed TRV was evicted years ago by you-know-who after only a few weeks, due to motor noise. The room now has no way to call the boiler based on its own temperature and in certain weather and wind can lag behind the centrally located wired stat's room temperature, though I've flow balanced with emphasis on the master bedroom and its ensuite's three rads, of which only the largest has the rejected TRV. I can't reinstate the TRV, or even use it on a shelf as it will still whirr. Might be worth a punt to see if the sensor stat can work as a standalone.



  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭limktime


    Thanks for the detailed reply. That's interesting, I hadn't heard of the unmounted TRV's but I did come across the wireless sensor in conjunction with a TRV. I thought about picking up some tado TRVs but they're too pricey for the amount that I would need and for what I'd get from them.

    My problem is that the wired stats are placed in the upstairs and downstairs halls rather than the rooms we're mainly spending time in. I might pick up a wireless sensor and see how it goes.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Do. I'll do the same. Might be black Friday deals.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Or, you can always buy the extension kit receiver on its own, disconnect the wired stat, configure it as a wireless stat paired to the ext. kit, and move the stat to a more suitable location. You can even have it on the little portable stand. The ext. kit would be wired directly to the zone valve in place of the now disused wires from the formerly wired stat.

    https://ie.shop.tado.com/products/wireless-receiver



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    You'd also have an extra relay on the ext. kit for HW timing on the app if your HW is not direct from boiler.



  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭limktime


    I like the extension kit idea but from what I remember the wired stat didn't have power running to it. It had 2 wires. I didn't want to replace the existing programmer so that's why I went with the Wired starter kit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    The stats are battery operated, wired or wireless. When wired, the stat just closes the contacts of a relay which is connected to those two wires which are Live, (from the exiting controller if still in situ), and a Switched Live return to the zone valve. By adding the extension kit and locating it next to the zone valve, you power it from the live and neutral which is present for your zone valves. You connect the ext kit CH rela to connect SL to operate the zone valve. The two wires to the wired stat location are redundant, and can be cut and taped up. The stat itself is now wirelessly connected to the zone valve via the ext kit, and the stat can be positioned optimally, or placed in a stand and sited at various locations in the zone that best suits the needs at the time. This would mean you don't need an additional stat just to trigger the poorly located fixed one, as the ext kit makes it portable.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭limktime


    Ah ok, got it now. I read it as the ext kit should be placed where the wired stat was.

    I queried tado about my original question "if I get a wireless thermostat and place it in a room, can it link to one of the wired thermostats to trigger the heating depending on the temp in that room rather than going by the temp on the wired thermostat?".

    Their response:

    "Unfortunately, only your Wired Thermostats can control the temperature in your zones. You can only put a Wireless Temperature Sensor in order to measure the temperature more accurately in the rooms of your choice."



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Which tells you nothing really. Does it then link to and operate the wired stat to fire the boiler? Sensor stats only seem to be advertised remote temperature sensors for TRVs. Having two stats which call the same zone is an oddity anyway. When the stat in one area reaches target and switches off the boiler, the other stat which may be below target switches it back on, overheating the the room where the first stat is located. By having just one stat for a zone, and making it wireless and portable, means you can prioritise its location. The proper solution for differential temperatures in a multi room zone controlled by a single stat is to balance the flow to the rads using the valves, the main one or the lockshield one at the other end. so that they all get the optimum heat flow they need during a call for heat from the stat. Manual TRVs on the rads in rooms away from their zone stat go a long way to achieving this.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Good Black Friday value in Screwfix for selected smart thermostat systems.

    Hive mini kit, CH and HW, €99.95

    4 pack Tado TRV basic . €200

    NEST V3 stat €189

    Lots of other stuff.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Have tried to set up the first of my Tado TRVs. Keep getting an E4 callibration error. Replacing Compac TRVs and im sure I have the right adopter. Pin in middle is moving freely, no matter what I do keep getting the same error.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Do you mean Comap TRVs? I've not found a TRV branded Compac. According to the Tado Compatibility guide here, https://cdn.brandfolder.io/607DGEMS/at/wngg83j9q93x6s7qn93hzs7/0130_B_SRT_Compatibility_Guide_EN.pdf

    Comap TRVs fit a standard M30 by 1.5 mm TRV valve body, same as most TRVs, so no adapter is necessary, the Tado should screw straight to the valve once you remove the Comap TRV head. Post a pic of the valve after you've removed the Comap head. A standard M30 × 1.5mm TRV valve typically looks like this.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Its a Compac TRV alright. Looks something like that image alright but it the Tado TRV will not fit directly onto it. Very small difference, maybe its the one listed on the next Pg, M28 thread. Although looking at that guide I have not used any of the pin extenders in the adaptor so that must be the issue hopefully, I wonder what size pin extender I need?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Just suck it and see. One of them will be right.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Sorted. Note to self-read the damn instructions before starting...



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Thought I had the Tados sorted but something not right. I have a fairly simple set up. 4 rads down stairs and 4 rads upstairs. Want to have two zones so that I can turn rads off upstairs when not in use. When I turn the upstairs rads off on the app they still are hot even though app and reading on TRV says off.. app tells me TRVs are calibrated and fitted correctly so don't know where my error is.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    It sounds like the pin is not closing the valve. If you push the pin manually, it should come to firm stop before it disappears into the adapter casing, with a stroke of about 2.5mm. If you can push this pin down below the adapter pin hole top surface, then its likely that the valve is still open when the pin is flush with this surface. I don't know how many pins you have, but a longer one seems in order to ensure the Tado can 'bottom out' on the down stroke, which is when it has fully compressed the valve pin to close it. I assume that the valves seals were in good order and could be fully closed off with the manual TRV heads.

    I presume you are tightening the base of the Tado firmly to the also firmly fitted adapter, and only then twist fitting the top part of the Tado so that power on and calibration is activated with full engagement of the motorised plunger in the TRV with the valve/adapter pin.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    I also assume you've checked the activation of each valve from the app, by watching and listening for it to open and close when you turn it on and off. It's easy to get the assignment mixed up so you're turning off a different valve than the one you're observing, but unlikely you'd have 4 mixed up.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Ye, it has to be too do with the adaptor pins alright. Will mess around and see which pin length suits best.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,772 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Has anyone ever had a Wiser Drayton TRV just die? We've had them about 18 months and one started acting up recently - sounding like it was opening/closing, but valve was staying open. Tried recalibrating and it went through the motions but didn't help. Next up was a change of batteries - it wasn't on the low indicator (half way down), but I thought it was worth a try. Changed the batteries and no action from it at all now. No lights, no movement etc. Have tried putting back in the same batteries again, but same thing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    Three year warranty on the manufacturer's site, Schneider Electric.

    https://shop.se.com/uk/en/radiator-thermostat-wiser-pack-of-3-wv704r0k0902.html

    They have big offices here in Maynooth business park, usually after first year of warranty your extended warranty is with the manufacturer, but contact the retailer first.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,639 ✭✭✭Glebee


    Thanks Deezell, I found that guide alright. Have swapped out the 15mm pin I had installed with 18.5mm as specified so hopefully that works.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,772 ✭✭✭Bawnmore


    Sweet - I had actually given up and was just here to rant and see if anyone else was seeing the same thing, but that's actually great news. I'll get on to Amazon on see what they say and then Schneider if no joy there. Thanks deezell!



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 BAABAA96


    Hi All,


    I'm a newbie here to trying to upgrade my house. I'm one of the lucky ones that was able to buy a house in the chaotic housing market. The house is pretty old and I'm trying to modernise it. Pretty sure it's leaking heat left, right and centre but trying to start with regaining some control over the home heating (I also have attic insulation lined up, as that's recommended as the cheapest upgrade with best effect). We have a gas boiler system in the house that I don't think is too lold so I don't think that needs replacement for a few years yet.


    Got a quote on getting a TADO system installed for the house of €1900 (I assume net of VAT, and before the grant of €700). Can anyone help with whether this is a good price or whether they would recommend the system as an upgrade? I'm not handy in any way so wouldn't be confident enough to do installation of this myself! The boiler is a Glow worm and there's 7 radiators in the house if that helps anyones response.


    Any help appreciated!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,711 ✭✭✭deezell


    How is your heating currently controlled. Do you have a wall thermostat. Do you have two? Is there any kind of timer controller.

    Does that quote include TRVs on the radiators? The Tado wireless starter kit is currently only €120 in Screwfix for the Black edition. This will give you 2 zones, CH and HW in all but the crummiest installations without any additional plumbing. Installing this actually qualifies for the grant. It might take less than half a day for a competent electrician, or a trained mo, installer to fit. If this is what you are getting for €1900, you are being robbed. Please tell me there are TRVs being installed, zone valves, something to justify almost 2 grand.

    Post edited by deezell on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7 DonZee


    Deezell, sorry, I never got around to posting that picture of the boiler underneath. I've added it at the end together with another one showing more detail about the wiring currently in place (think it got cut off an previous pics).

    Amazon is having a Black Friday deal on the Drayton Multizone kit (2 channels) with 2 smart TRVs for £156. Problem I have right now is finding an installer including the one that cleaned up my wiring. I've been ringing around but nobody has time and most just want to sell EPH. You don't do house calls do you 😁?

    Pics as requested




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