Home heating automation

mickdw

I want to run some cables for climote before I close up some new walls.
There is no wiring at climote position currently and it is to connect to an old super q burner with timer on front panel.
Everything is fully open at the minute so I can get cables from burner to climote position. Consumer unit to climote position if needed.
What should I stick in before closing up the walls?
Electrician is coming back to finish up with switches and sockets etc in a couple of weeks but he never answers his phone.

deezell

ctlsleh wrote: »

What do recommend for the cylinder stat, I don’t have any wiring at mine, there was never a thermostat.......I have 2xNests....they are wired up,downstairs at the boiler.....?

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/schuller-clamp-on-pipe-thermostat-2310334.html

deezell

mickdw wrote: »

I want to run some cables for climote before I close up some new walls.
There is no wiring at climote position currently and it is to connect to an old super q burner with timer on front panel.
Everything is fully open at the minute so I can get cables from burner to climote position. Consumer unit to climote position if needed.
What should I stick in before closing up the walls?
Electrician is coming back to finish up with switches and sockets etc in a couple of weeks but he never answers his phone.

Show him this. Mains pair, at least one wire each to living room stat, HW stat and optional bed zone stat. Good practice is to bring a pair gor esch back to the zone valve location, a pair from each stat as well. Is there a stat built into the climote? Then just a stat if the bed zone is used, and a stat on the cylinder which is likely beside the zone valve. You may in fact need no more than a wire back to fire the boiler for heating if you have just one zone and the cylinder is gravity fed. You won't have seperate control of HW though.

skerry

Nests down to €229 on littlewoods for black Friday, not sure how good a deal that is.

https://www.littlewoodsireland.ie/nest-learning-thermostat-3rd-generation/1600228981.prd

bk

Nest is down to £160 on amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-3rd-Generation/dp/B016PW3JSG/ref=gbps_tit_m-8_743f_8d880d23?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=70cc2865-9b7e-46cb-9c01-b5215c83743f&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=161428031&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=3RW7BE4BG6H0S03348ZQ

deezell

ctlsleh wrote: »

What do recommend for the cylinder stat, I don’t have any wiring at mine, there was never a thermostat.......I have 2xNests....they are wired up,downstairs at the boiler.....?

If your boiker is downstairs and cylinder is upstairs, standard 2 story arrangement, it is v common for the cylinder to be gravity fed. When the boiler is on the cylinder will heat. One arrangement is to have the boiler on its own timer, coming on and off and heating the HW. Theres a HW/CH switch which turns on the pump for heating. The hall stat then controls this pump. This is as crude as it gets. You can have zone valves for up/down but the HW might still be simple gravity while the boiler is on. This is fine as both valves closed means only HW is on. A cylinder stat would help to prevent overheating, but HW temp is limits to the boiler temperature. Usually at this point a 3 zone timer is installed to fire the boiler for each zone. If the HW doesn't have a valve it will always heat when either zone us on, and the HW timer on the controller can be used to heat it Independently, a cylinder stat will control the HW temperature while it's heating this way. For fully independent HW heating the cylinder stat should open a valve for the cylinder. If your cylinder is well insulated it doesn't need a timer, it will stay topped up on demand. You won't save much by turning it on and off a few times a day, unless you have a really old uninsulated cylinder

judeboy101

hey all,
bit of advice. have a combi boiler, house is one zone. thermostat on wall upstairs, no hotwater cylinder. timer for heating only allows two times to be set so pretty useless. im half decent at diy so wiring wont daunt me. which one nest/hive etc would suit my scenario?

thanks

bk

judeboy101 wrote: »

hey all,
bit of advice. have a combi boiler, house is one zone. thermostat on wall upstairs, no hotwater cylinder. timer for heating only allows two times to be set so pretty useless. im half decent at diy so wiring wont daunt me. which one nest/hive etc would suit my scenario?

thanks

Nest/Hive would work, but I'd recommend Netatmo (or Tado).

I've the same setup as you with a Netatmo thermostat. Super easy to install, it is most likely just a drop in replacement for your existing thermostat.

Advantage of Netatmo/Tado is that you could get Smart TRV's later to create each room as it's own zone. Nest/Hive don't have these.

irelandrover

judeboy101 wrote: »

hey all,
bit of advice. have a combi boiler, house is one zone. thermostat on wall upstairs, no hotwater cylinder. timer for heating only allows two times to be set so pretty useless. im half decent at diy so wiring wont daunt me. which one nest/hive etc would suit my scenario?

thanks

I have the same setup and ordered the Tado. Reason being is I want to put a TRV into the nursery to control that room seperately. Another alternative was Netatmo but I prefer the look of the Tado thermostat.

frankthetank83

Nest is just €130 with free installation if your an elec Ireland customer. Didn't have to sign up to contract as I'm already with them.

https://shop.electricireland.ie/products/install-detail/nest-thermostat

JazzyJ

Hey,

I'm looking for advice too - leaning towards getting a Tado system. Currently have OFCH, with just a single zone for the central heating and hot water cylinder. This is currently controlled by a Honeywell CM927/BDR91. The immersion on the cylinder has a mechanical timer on it (timing part has broken in the last few weeks it never turns itself off when on timed mode).

What would be the best upgrades that I could put in? I'm thinking:

• Replace the CM927 with a Tado with extension kit for the central heating.
• Smart TRVs on radiators
• Another Tado extension kit for the immersion (I think this possible, but I'm not sure)

Would there be any better setup than the above for the type of system that I have?

frankthetank83

JazzyJ wrote: »

Hey,

I'm looking for advice too - leaning towards getting a Tado system. Currently have OFCH, with just a single zone for the central heating and hot water cylinder. This is currently controlled by a Honeywell CM927/BDR91. The immersion on the cylinder has a mechanical timer on it (timing part has broken in the last few weeks it never turns itself off when on timed mode).

What would be the best upgrades that I could put in? I'm thinking:

• Replace the CM927 with a Tado with extension kit for the central heating.
• Smart TRVs on radiators
• Another Tado extension kit for the immersion (I think this possible, but I'm not sure)

Would there be any better setup than the above for the type of system that I have?

I know Honeywell Evohome does the wireless TRVs and hot water control (through boiler, not immersion). My relative has it and its really good i believe. Not sure of price but I've know a good few home services companies do it and you can get SEAI grant for it too.
http://churchfieldhomeservices.ie/honeywell-evohome-heating-controls
https://shop.electricireland.ie/products
https://www.ie.screwfix.com/honeywell-evohome-wi-fi-connected-thermostat-pack.html

judeboy101

bk wrote: »

Nest/Hive would work, but I'd recommend Netatmo (or Tado).

I've the same setup as you with a Netatmo thermostat. Super easy to install, it is most likely just a drop in replacement for your existing thermostat.

Advantage of Netatmo/Tado is that you could get Smart TRV's later to create each room as it's own zone. Nest/Hive don't have these.

so i just wire up the netamo inplace of thermostat ( yokey with dial for temp) set my timer (myson type) to always on, and basically use the netamo as an on off switch that i can program for multiple times or for wheneever i want, plus be able to link it to my alexa ?

bk

judeboy101 wrote: »

so i just wire up the netamo inplace of thermostat ( yokey with dial for temp) set my timer (myson type) to always on, and basically use the netamo as an on off switch that i can program for multiple times or for wheneever i want, plus be able to link it to my alexa ?

Yes, you could do it that way. Alternatively you could replace the timer with the Netatmo Bridge and this allows you to have the Netatmo wireless in any room you want (within wireless range).

deezell

JazzyJ wrote: »

Hey,

I'm looking for advice too - leaning towards getting a Tado system. Currently have OFCH, with just a single zone for the central heating and hot water cylinder. This is currently controlled by a Honeywell CM927/BDR91. The immersion on the cylinder has a mechanical timer on it (timing part has broken in the last few weeks it never turns itself off when on timed mode).

What would be the best upgrades that I could put in? I'm thinking:

• Replace the CM927 with a Tado with extension kit for the central heating.
• Smart TRVs on radiators
• Another Tado extension kit for the immersion (I think this possible, but I'm not sure)

Would there be any better setup than the above for the type of system that I have?

I'm assuming HW cylinder is heated when the boiler fires for the central heating. You have no facility to heat HW without turning on the radiators, other than using the immersion. Your current stat is wireless, so there's no cables to its location. If you're happy enough to leave things this way the a tado with ext box or nest will be ideal. both will work wirelessly back to their control box, and both control boxes have separate relays for HW and heating, so you could in the first instance just use the main relay contacts to fire the boiler and heat the house generally, the second pair either to power the immersion (current rating permitting), or to operate a zone valve which will allow the HW to be heated separately without the radiators, (which will also require their own zone valve). Its possible your cylinder is heated by gravity from the boiler, and the radiators by switching a pump. There are a no. of ways to connect such a system once you have two timed relays, the HW contacts could be used as a means of firing the boiler in general which would heat water, and the thermostat controlled contacts used to turn on the pump if heating is needed. Without zone valves you can't have two timers calling the boiler simply by cross connecting their live outputs from the timers, as the HW call would just feed back to the heating call and power on its pump. Zone valves have additional relays in them to isolate the call for the boiler from the stat or timer signals.
The nest can't interface with TRVs, but there is nothing wrong with having dumb or smart TRVs in the rooms away from where the stat is located. With tado the TRVs can call the boiler via the stat/extension box when they drop below set temperature. You can have a system composed entirely of tado TRVs and an extension box, no main stat needed.
As for your immersion timing, why not use the redundant Honeywell timer to operate it. Id assume you only use it when the oil boiler has not been on, but if you change your setup to heat HW without the central heating, oil is a far less expensive source of hot water.

judeboy101

bk wrote: »

Yes, you could do it that way. Alternatively you could replace the timer with the Netatmo Bridge and this allows you to have the Netatmo wireless in any room you want (within wireless range).

Ok, two things.

1.Will thermostat upstairs not compete with netamo?

2. And for bridge do u mean relay that comes with thermostat? Would i have to hardwire it to bb ?

bk

judeboy101 wrote: »

Ok, two things.

1.Will thermostat upstairs not compete with netamo?

With this setup, you would just disconnect the old thermostat and just use the Netatmo instead.

So currently you probably have something like:
Thermostat -> Timer -> Boiler

You will now have:
Netatmo (wireless) -> Relay (replaces timer) -> Boiler

judeboy101 wrote: »

2. And for bridge do u mean relay that comes with thermostat? Would i have to hardwire it to bb ?

Sorry, yes, they call it a relay. The relay connects to your BB using wifi.

KD11

Nest Thermostat is at £154.99 now on amazon if anyones interested. At its lowest price now. Cant imagine it getting any lower on friday.

ctlsleh

deezell wrote: »

ctlsleh wrote: »

What do recommend for the cylinder stat, I don’t have any wiring at mine, there was never a thermostat.......I have 2xNests....they are wired up,downstairs at the boiler.....?

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/schuller-clamp-on-pipe-thermostat-2310334.html

Thanks and how do you wire that back to the nest? I never had a thermostat in my hot press which is upstairs and my nest and boiler are downstairs.....?

I tried a remote wireless danfoss thermostat but the relay at the boiler end burned out as it was always on (calling for heat).
Any suggestions welcome.....

ctlsleh

deezell wrote: »

ctlsleh wrote: »

What do recommend for the cylinder stat, I don’t have any wiring at mine, there was never a thermostat.......I have 2xNests....they are wired up,downstairs at the boiler.....?

If your boiker is downstairs and cylinder is upstairs, standard 2 story arrangement, it is v common for the cylinder to be gravity fed. When the boiler is on the cylinder will heat. One arrangement is to have the boiler on its own timer, coming on and off and heating the HW. Theres a HW/CH switch which turns on the pump for heating. The hall stat then controls this pump. This is as crude as it gets. You can have zone valves for up/down but the HW might still be simple gravity while the boiler is on. This is fine as both valves closed means only HW is on. A cylinder stat would help to prevent overheating, but HW temp is limits to the boiler temperature. Usually at this point a 3 zone timer is installed to fire the boiler for each zone. If the HW doesn't have a valve it will always heat when either zone us on, and the HW timer on the controller can be used to heat it Independently, a cylinder stat will control the HW temperature while it's heating this way. For fully independent HW heating the cylinder stat should open a valve for the cylinder. If your cylinder is well insulated it doesn't need a timer, it will stay topped up on demand. You won't save much by turning it on and off a few times a day, unless you have a really old uninsulated cylinder

I have 3 zones, upstairs, downstairs and hot water, each have their own motorised value on the boiler. I have 2 nests.
I tried a Danfoss Wireless thermostat set up where I put the receiver unit in line with the nest call for heat so that when the cylinder temp reached the set point, the receiver opened the relay between the nest and the value, thereby turning off the hot water feed to the cylinder.
However as I don’t hear the cylinder that often, the thermostat was always calling for heat and the relay at the receiver was always closed, I think it just burned out so I’m trying to come up with an alternative idea.......
Thanks for all the feedback

Aph2016

£149.99 Amazon UK

deezell

ctlsleh wrote: »

I have 3 zones, upstairs, downstairs and hot water, each have their own motorised value on the boiler. I have 2 nests.
I tried a Danfoss Wireless thermostat set up where I put the receiver unit in line with the nest call for heat so that when the cylinder temp reached the set point, the receiver opened the relay between the nest and the value, thereby turning off the hot water feed to the cylinder.
However as I don’t hear the cylinder that often, the thermostat was always calling for heat and the relay at the receiver was always open. I think it just burned out so I’m trying to come up with an alternative idea.......
Thanks for all the feedback

When you say you don't heat the cylinder that often, you mean you have it on an occasional time slot? So the closed cylinder thermostat/ relay gets no response from the boiler until the next timer slot and may not be heating long enough to reach the thermostats set temperature. The relay would indeed be powered constantly as a result. Using a wired stat means running cables. My only suggestion would be that if you get a replacement receiver unit, you power it from the occasional timed voltage, presumably from one of the nests. When the timer calls, the receiver will first pair with the wireless cylinder stat, which in turn will open the relay, which then opens the valve and calls the boiler. If the timer turns off before the stat reaches temperature, power is removed from the relay and hence the valve. The relay should last a bit longer this way, but ideally you would just have the HW on most of the time with the stat just topping it up, and the relay mostly open. If you don't have a deep insulated cylinder this can be inefficient, which is why most use timer Top up of HW

ctlsleh

deezell wrote: »

When you say you don't heat the cylinder that often, you mean you have it on an occasional time slot? So the closed cylinder thermostat/ relay gets no response from the boiler until the next timer slot and may not be heating long enough to reach the thermostats set temperature. The relay would indeed be powered constantly as a result. Using a wired stat means running cables. My only suggestion would be that if you get a replacement receiver unit, you power it from the occasional timed voltage, presumably from one of the nests. When the timer calls, the receiver will first pair with the wireless cylinder stat, which in turn will open the relay, which then opens the valve and calls the boiler. If the timer turns off before the stat reaches temperature, power is removed from the relay and hence the valve. The relay should last a bit longer this way, but ideally you would just have the HW on most of the time with the stat just topping it up, and the relay mostly open. If you don't have a deep insulated cylinder this can be inefficient, which is why most use timer Top up of HW

You got it........basically I set the upper temp limit on the cylinder at 64degrees, so the thermostat is always calling for heat, the receiver is in line with the nest call for heat on the boiler, so unless the nest is actually calling for heat itself through the timer or manually, then the boiler isn’t activated.......I’m using the danfoss CET2000 and RX1-S

But your idea is really clever, I’ll use the nest to also power the receiver so when the nest turns calls for heat on the hot water, the receiver gets power and pulls the relay, smart idea, ........many thanks

dball

anyone buying a Tado - sit tight.
I got this email this evening from them

Have a white Christmas
with tado° instead
20% off all Starter Kits.
Starts December 11th.*
Get ready
save from December 11th to 31st

ixoy

We've got a 2-zone set up and separately heat up the hot water. Currently, we have a CTC Digital 3 Channel programmer and we just turn the heating on in 1/2/3 hour blocks and rarely program it.

The thermostat for the living room area is in the hall where currently, for various reasons, there's no radiator - so therefore it's *always* going to be significantly colder. Would that mean Nest thermostat right now would be a little pointless as, even with the air circulating, the hall will never really warm up? Should we hold off until the radiators are back in action? (The second zone, the bed rooms, is not as big as a concern but we could use it there I guess). I know the thermostat should be at the coldest point but this is a bit different.

The bigger one we'd like though is to simply be able to remotely trigger the heating - if it's cold I can warm up the house on my way home. Perhaps a more basic product then add in the Nest later if they're all compatible? Or just use the Nest anyway and benefit from it later?

The reason I'm focusing on Nest is I've bought into the GHome eco-system and want it all wrapped up together neatly, which Nest appears to do.

deezell

dball wrote: »

anyone buying a Tado - sit tight.
I got this email this evening from them

Have a white Christmas
with tado° instead
20% off all Starter Kits.
Starts December 11th.*
Get ready
save from December 11th to 31st

From Tado UK that would be £39.80 off £199, £159.20, plus parcel motel €3.95.
But right this minute it's dropped to £149 on Amazon prime, thats for V3 also, it's free delivery also and that includes ROI so no PM.

ctlsleh

ixoy wrote: »

We've got a 2-zone set up and separately heat up the hot water. Currently, we have a CTC Digital 3 Channel programmer and we just turn the heating on in 1/2/3 hour blocks and rarely program it.

The thermostat for the living room area is in the hall where currently, for various reasons, there's no radiator - so therefore it's *always* going to be significantly colder. Would that mean Nest thermostat right now would be a little pointless as, even with the air circulating, the hall will never really warm up? Should we hold off until the radiators are back in action? (The second zone, the bed rooms, is not as big as a concern but we could use it there I guess). I know the thermostat should be at the coldest point but this is a bit different.

The bigger one we'd like though is to simply be able to remotely trigger the heating - if it's cold I can warm up the house on my way home. Perhaps a more basic product then add in the Nest later if they're all compatible? Or just use the Nest anyway and benefit from it later?

The reason I'm focusing on Nest is I've bought into the GHome eco-system and want it all wrapped up together neatly, which Nest appears to do.

It’s not mandatory to replace the existing thermostat with the nest, you can just disconnect the thermostat and put the nest wherever you want, assuming you have WiFi in your house

deezell

ixoy wrote: »

We've got a 2-zone set up and separately heat up the hot water....
......The thermostat for the living room area is in the hall where currently, for various reasons, there's no radiator - so therefore it's *always* going to be significantly colder.....
....Should we hold off until the radiators are back in action? .....
The reason I'm focusing on Nest is I've bought into the GHome eco-system and want it all wrapped up together neatly, which Nest appears to do.

Just connect the Nest wirelessly to its heatlink box and sit it in the Living room, powered by it's little mains adapter. Later, ( radiator restored) if you wish you can wall mount it where the old stat was and reuse the old stat wires to power and connect the nest back to the heatlink box.

Tom123

Is this a good price on the evohome starter kit?
https://theevohomeshop.co.uk/honeywell-evohome-connected-value-packs/75-honeywell-evohome-wi-fi-connected-value-pack-a.html

punisher5112

Is the nest 3rd gen at £149 good???