Home heating automation

iba

Hi Guys,

Not sure if this should be in here on in its own thread so apologies if advance.

The issue is I'm having problems with Alexa turning on and off Google Nest. I've searched google for answers but didn't get them.

Previously I said to Alexa "Turn on Heat", "Turn off heat" and the Nest did as instructed when I spoke to my Echo Show but when I said the same commands to my Echo Dot, second and third generation, it replied "Nest does not support that". So I started playing around with the name of the Nest in the Nest app and the Alexa app. Now it wont turn on or off the heating at all although it will increase or decrease the temperature when commanded (after I turn it on manually).

So guys please, what do you call the Nest in the Nest app and what do you call it in the Alexa app? What do you say to Alexa to turn Nest on and off?

Thanks

limnam

maxamillius wrote: »

Is that on Amazon?

Yeah in around prime day or shortly after it.

Fujitsu10

deezell wrote: »

The newer wireless receiver box, the 'extension kit', has two volt free SPDT relays, one each for HW and CH, the older version had a mode switch, which configured the terminals to either one volt free SPDT relay output for CH only, or two SPST hardwired to Com Live outputs, for CH and HW. The newer one has a wiring terminal block on the unit, the older one wired to a standard type heating control wall backplate, allowing easy clip off removal of the unit. I'd recommend the first, easier to wire and test, more options with the NC contacts for priority wiring if required. Though you only have a single zone valve, its still possible to simulate S plan independent zone heating, if your Zone valve has an SPDT relay, with COM, NO and NC contacts. I'll sketch up a diagram later, the very same system arose just a few posts back.
For non sparky readers, SPDT means a relay or switch with Single Pole Double Throw, i.e, a COM contact and two outputs, Normally Closed NC and Normally Open NO. SPST is just a 2 terminal switch.

Fujitsu10 wrote: »

Hi again Deezell, thank you for your help. I really do appreciate it. What your suggesting regarding the two switches makes sense. I will need to investigate this a little further. I really like the idea of replacing the mechanical TRV heads to gain control of each room. This allows for many controlling options without the need to rework the pipework. I have found 2 versions of the Starter kit with HW control, there appears to be a more expensive unit with "easier installation", do you know what the difference is between them?
Also I see that Amazon supply them, I'm a little cautious about buying from Amazon UK at the moment with the new Brexit rules. I also found them on Apple!
I will be doing a self install on this, I am a qualified electrician, so hopefully it should be straight forward enough!
Thanks again, and I would appreciate hearing your thoughts on which exact model I should be looking for. Perhaps there is a bundle which includes the TRV heads?
Happy New Year

I got an opportunity to have a closer look at the setup of the heating system as it is presently configured. I'm not living in this house at present. The writing on the time clock states "Hot water" and the double switch next to it says "Heating". I have located a motorised valve in the hot press on the 1st floor which controls the water to a manifold which feeds the upstairs radiators. When both switches are turned off if I switch the timer to manual the boiler fires up. I think (but can't be certain) that there is another motorised valve downstairs near the heating pump, as I could hear a valve moving when I turned off the switch.
I am thinking now that the system has 3 zones, 1 Hot Water, 2 Downstairs, 3 Upstairs. Does this seem correct? If so will a Tado system still be suitable?

CrazyFather1

limnam wrote: »

Yeah in around prime day or shortly after it.

Nov 26th - 30th.

At one time the 4 of them went to 90 pounds.

It is strange they don't sell them cheap as I expect the money is made on the license fee

limnam

CrazyFather1 wrote: »

Nov 26th - 30th.

At one time the 4 of them went to 90 pounds.

It is strange they don't sell them cheap as I expect the money is made on the license fee

Yah, 90 is a great price for 4, they're a great bit of kit and very reliable. In my experience anyway!

Clareman

iba wrote: »

Hi Guys,

Not sure if this should be in here on in its own thread so apologies if advance.

The issue is I'm having problems with Alexa turning on and off Google Nest. I've searched google for answers but didn't get them.

Previously I said to Alexa "Turn on Heat", "Turn off heat" and the Nest did as instructed when I spoke to my Echo Show but when I said the same commands to my Echo Dot, second and third generation, it replied "Nest does not support that". So I started playing around with the name of the Nest in the Nest app and the Alexa app. Now it wont turn on or off the heating at all although it will increase or decrease the temperature when commanded (after I turn it on manually).

So guys please, what do you call the Nest in the Nest app and what do you call it in the Alexa app? What do you say to Alexa to turn Nest on and off?

Thanks

Not sure but I've noticed for my Netamo and Google setup I need to tell Google to set the temperature rather than turn on the heat, commands like "set temperature to 22" works

deezell

Fujitsu10 wrote: »

I got an opportunity to have a closer look at the setup of the heating system as it is presently configured. I'm not living in this house at present. The writing on the time clock states "Hot water" and the double switch next to it says "Heating". I have located a motorised valve in the hot press on the 1st floor which controls the water to a manifold which feeds the upstairs radiators. When both switches are turned off if I switch the timer to manual the boiler fires up. I think (but can't be certain) that there is another motorised valve downstairs near the heating pump, as I could hear a valve moving when I turned off the switch.
I am thinking now that the system has 3 zones, 1 Hot Water, 2 Downstairs, 3 Upstairs. Does this seem correct? If so will a Tado system still be suitable?

Tado additional stats can control extra CH zone valves, but only one can be wireless. If you're going full TRV, you would just need one stat relay to open both zone valves and fire the boiler.
Do the current zone valves switches require the timer to be on in order to heat, or does the boiker fire as soon as you throw a switch?

championc

Just a quick update regarding my Tado setup. I believe that I am down about 60m3 of gas this period (Nov and Dec) compared to the last few years (340 vs 400). Unfortunately I have no data regarding average temperatures for November and December, but I have felt that we were definitely using less on the basis of the extra control that the Tado system gives.

Let's face it, even morso this year, people will have higher usage having heating on all day, when working from home. We have 3 in our household, so I dread to think what my usage could have been (I reckon about 500m3).

The Tado App itself reported a 1.9% saving, but that would only be savings based on open window detection and Geofencing.

I'll be looking forward somewhat to my next bill at the end of February, when that covers the worst of the cold months, and as we continue to WFH

Fujitsu10

deezell wrote: »

Tado additional stats can control extra CH zone valves, but only one can be wireless. If you're going full TRV, you would just need one stat relay to open both zone valves and fire the boiler.
Do the current zone valves switches require the timer to be on in order to heat, or does the boiker fire as soon as you throw a switch?

I'm 99% sure the zone switches don't fire the boiler, it seems only the timer does this. I suspect the live side of the switches is coming from the timer output. I might be able to hard wire another stat from upstairs..... I'm initially planning to start with 4 TRV's, if this works out well, I can change the rest in time. In the meantime I can open both zone valves off the wireless stat. I have ordered the Tado system and the 4 TRV's, I'll let you know how it works out.
Thanks for your help.

maxamillius

championc wrote: »

Just a quick update regarding my Tado setup. I believe that I am down about 60m3 of gas this period (Nov and Dec) compared to the last few years (340 vs 400). Unfortunately I have no data regarding average temperatures for November and December, but I have felt that we were definitely using less on the basis of the extra control that the Tado system gives.

Let's face it, even morso this year, people will have higher usage having heating on all day, when working from home. We have 3 in our household, so I dread to think what my usage could have been (I reckon about 500m3).

The Tado App itself reported a 1.9% saving, but that would only be savings based on open window detection and Geofencing.

I'll be looking forward somewhat to my next bill at the end of February, when that covers the worst of the cold months, and as we continue to WFH

Good to hear, I’m actually expecting my oil usage to go up... up until now we used to just whack the heating on when we get up around 0630 turn it off after an hour or so, then turn it on again mid morning and so on. So basically the house would cool right down and then we would have to heat it right back up again.

I’m waiting on my Tado to arrive but I do expect to see an increase due to the heating being on more than usual

iba

Clareman wrote: »

Not sure but I've noticed for my Netamo and Google setup I need to tell Google to set the temperature rather than turn on the heat, commands like "set temperature to 22" works

Thanks for the suggestion. Tried it, didn't work.

championc

maxamillius wrote: »

Good to hear, I’m actually expecting my oil usage to go up... up until now we used to just whack the heating on when we get up around 0630 turn it off after an hour or so, then turn it on again mid morning and so on. So basically the house would cool right down and then we would have to heat it right back up again.

I’m waiting on my Tado to arrive but I do expect to see an increase due to the heating being on more than usual

It's all about room management. We don't heat the hall until evenings, don't heat the sitting room until afternoon, don't heat the dining room or kitchen in the evenings. My daughter works from her room so hers is on almost all day.

The other main gain is the control of temperature, the way it brings rooms up to arrive at the temperature required, rather than closing off the valve at the temperature required and continuing to climb after that. So rooms are kept at a very level temp constantly.

So spend time in setting up your room schedules - some rooms will work with Mon - Sun while others might be better suited to Mon - Fri, Sat, Sun

ongarite

championc wrote: »

Just a quick update regarding my Tado setup. I believe that I am down about 60m3 of gas this period (Nov and Dec) compared to the last few years (340 vs 400). Unfortunately I have no data regarding average temperatures for November and December, but I have felt that we were definitely using less on the basis of the extra control that the Tado system gives.

Let's face it, even morso this year, people will have higher usage having heating on all day, when working from home. We have 3 in our household, so I dread to think what my usage could have been (I reckon about 500m3).

The Tado App itself reported a 1.9% saving, but that would only be savings based on open window detection and Geofencing.

I'll be looking forward somewhat to my next bill at the end of February, when that covers the worst of the cold months, and as we continue to WFH

You have Tado TRV on each radiator to get level of control you want?
Do you have extension kit wired up as relay or as OpenTherm to get fine level of control.

championc

ongarite wrote: »

You have Tado TRV on each radiator to get level of control you want?
Do you have extension kit wired up as relay or as OpenTherm to get fine level of control.

Yes, TRV on each rad and the wireless room stat and TRV's all talking to the Extension Kit. Indeed, the control per room is exactly as I hoped.

So even if rads are not balanced in a house, the closing of TRV's will force others to heat up. This would, in my opinion, put TRV based solutions well ahead of Nest type solutions, which can, at best, only turn off sections of a house separated by zone valves.

Many homes have upstairs separated from downstairs but with all TRV's in place, just leave them permanently open and the TRV's become multiple zone valves, turning each room into it's own zone

paulgrogan.eu

Hey guys,

Hoping someone might be able to advise on the best route forward here, or, if this is the wrong place for this question, feel free to delete / move.

I've Tado installed and love it. I have Smart TRV's on all my rads however I have noticed recently that when some of the rads are heating up, there is a hissing or whooshing sound that sounds like a kettle boiling.

Perhaps someone might be able to cast some light on why this might be happening and how I might be able to resolve this, as it can be quite noisy and night.

Cheers

deezell

paulgrogan.eu wrote: »

Hey guys,

Hoping someone might be able to advise on the best route forward here, or, if this is the wrong place for this question, feel free to delete / move.

I've Tado installed and love it. I have Smart TRV's on all my rads however I have noticed recently that when some of the rads are heating up, there is a hissing or whooshing sound that sounds like a kettle boiling.

Perhaps someone might be able to cast some light on why this might be happening and how I might be able to resolve this, as it can be quite noisy and night.

Cheers

1. Is your boiler cycling with a jacket full of very hot water, rather than turning off when there's no demand. A single TRV opening will take the full flow from the circulation pump, if the water is very hot, the sudden drop in pressure on the rad side of the TRV valve could cause spontaneous boiling.
Bleed your rads
Try lowering circulation pump speed, if the pump has speed/pressure control.
Check that boiler is not cycling, and check boiler temperature setting.

paulgrogan.eu

deezell wrote: »

1. Is your boiler cycling with a jacket full of very hot water, rather than turning off when there's no demand. A single TRV opening will take the full flow from the circulation pump, if the water is very hot, the sudden drop in pressure on the rad side of the TRV valve could cause spontaneous boiling.
Bleed your rads
Try lowering circulation pump speed, if the pump has speed/pressure control.
Check that boiler is not cycling, and check boiler temperature setting.

Thanks Deezel, so responses in order.


1. That I'm not 100% sure. To the best of my knowledge the boiler turns off when Tado cries enough. The circulation pump is attached to my Firebird oil boiler, so it's all within 1 unit outside.


2. The boiling / hissing sound is at the TRV end valve body as opposed to the other adjusting end.


3. Rads bled, have opened the bleed valves a few times recently and just get straight water, no bubbles.


4. Can check the pump no prob.


5. How do I check about the boiler cycling? I know where to check the other one alright and from memory it's at 60/70.

deezell

paulgrogan.eu wrote: »

Thanks Deezel, so responses in order.


1. That I'm not 100% sure. To the best of my knowledge the boiler turns off when Tado cries enough. The circulation pump is attached to my Firebird oil boiler, so it's all within 1 unit outside.


2. The boiling / hissing sound is at the TRV end valve body as opposed to the other adjusting end.


3. Rads bled, have opened the bleed valves a few times recently and just get straight water, no bubbles.


4. Can check the pump no prob.


5. How do I check about the boiler cycling? I know where to check the other one alright and from memory it's at 60/70.

Cycling is when the boiler keeps running and only cuts when its internal stat reaches temperature. On some installations the main stat only controls the pump, not the boiler, so the boiler is not switched off by the stat.
Its possible that particular TRV is not opening fully, maybe the pin is sticking, or the trv head needs to be removed from the zone and reinstalled and the calibration cycle run again. Is it just this one rad/TRV thats hissing?

chris_ie

Looking to get a smart system installed. Initially planned to go the Nest route, but the lack of TRVs made me rethink. I’ve pretty much decided on the Tado setup now.

Will be a tad expensive :
20 rads in the house
Kitchen / Sunroom x 2 rads
Utility room x 1
Sitting room x 1
Bedrooms x 4
En-suites x 2
Office room x 1
Walk in wardrobe x 1
Main Bathrooms x 2
Hallways x 3
Other rooms x 3

Now I wouldn’t be putting smart valves on all these radiators! I know a few should always be open.

Do people usually leave them off the en-suite/bathrooms?

We have two switches (plain wall switch like light switches) beside our current oil timer/programmer (separate), one for upstairs and one for downstairs. These switch on/off two Myson valves in the hot press.

As far as I remember, having these two off, heats water only.

We also have a stove with a back boiler.

I’ve read the posts on here with regards to the Tado, can these valves which are currently controlled by the wall switches, be wired into the Tado ‘brain’? So that if none of the smart valves upstairs are open, the upstairs valve will be closed?

Any tips on a recommended setup would be great.

deezell

With your current system, a timer is used to fire the boiler, which only heats HW until one or both of the zone valves are turned on. There are no wall stats to control the temperature or cut the boiler during a timed cycle with CH1 and/or CH2 selected. When neither are selected, the boiler just fires according to its timer, heating HW. I assume there is no HW cylinder stat to cut the boiler when it is sufficiently hot, rather the boiler will just keep going until its timer ends or until its internal temperature stat cuts it.
When the stove is lit, what happens to its output? Does it also just heat HW, and does it require manual intervention of the CH1 and CH2 switches to send it's output to the rads. Does it have it's own pump switched by a pipe thermostat, or do you have to intervene manually when it starts to gurgle and boil by throwing a switch somewhere

It would be relatively easy to install a Tado system with multiple TRVs and a single master stat to replace the function of the timer, and the two zone switches. The tado wireless kit with HW has a two relay receiver which will fire the boiler for HW only, or will also open the zone valves when the the Tado stat schedule and temperature setting call for heat, or one of the TRVs triggers the receiver and opens the zone valves and the triggering TRV's own rad valve. HW heating will be active for any HW only or CH timed event, as this circuit is open to the boiler at all times. The boiler stove is cross connected in some way to the pipework, probably just teed into the flow and return. It will have to remain connected this way at least to the HW cylinder, so that the stove can sink heat somewhere. Its possible your HW cylinder has a second coil for heat transfer from the stove, seperate to the coil from the oil boiler circuit. Ideally the stove pipe stat should open one/both of the zone valves and pump its heat to open radiators on the circuit, and to TRV rads whose valves happen to be open.
I suspect that the zone valves themselves do not use their relays, if present, to fire the boiler, but just open when the switches are thrown. You can retain this general zone switching by installing a second zone Tado wired wall stat to control say the upstairs valve, but you would require wiring from the valve relays to then fire the boiler to maintain zone valve independence, as you now would have two CH zone timers. Again, if all rads have smart TRVs, a single zone will suffice, and the wiring to fire the boiler can be simpler, running directly from the Tado receiver to the boiler.
Wiring for a two zone CH plus HW system with zone valves can get tricky, especially if you have to consider a stove boiler input to the system, and require the valves to open and circulation pump to run automatically when the stove temperature reaches a set level. Smart TRVs might all be closed at this point, so some radiators should be open to absorb the stove heat. It would be better if at least one radiator was on an open gravity circuit directly to the stove, and not behind the valve, but this is not always possible, and the HW cylinder becomes the only heat sink in the event of a power failure to pumps and valves while the stove is burning. If you have any more information on how your stove fits in to your system, does it have a pump stat etc, its own pump and so on. It may even be plumbed in with a proper blender tank or manifold.
The new Tado wireless extension kit receiver with a pair of volt free double throw relays lends itself well to automating a gravity HW and valved CH system. The NC teminal of the CH relay can be used to connect the zone to open for stove pipe stat live, without the oil boiler being activated, allowing stove heat to sink to non TRV radiators, and to open TRV radiators if the Tado CH timer is active. I can give you more wiring detail if I have more information on how your stove fits in.

chris_ie

deezell wrote: »

With your current system, a timer is used to fire the boiler, which only heats HW until one or both of the zone valves are turned on. There are no wall stats to control the temperature or cut the boiler during a timed cycle with CH1 and/or CH2 selected. When neither are selected, the boiler just fires according to its timer, heating HW. I assume there is no HW cylinder stat to cut the boiler when it is sufficiently hot, rather the boiler will just keep going until its timer ends or until its internal temperature stat cuts it.
When the stove is lit, what happens to its output? Does it also just heat HW, and does it require manual intervention of the CH1 and CH2 switches to send it's output to the rads. Does it have it's own pump switched by a pipe thermostat, or do you have to intervene manually when it starts to gurgle and boil by throwing a switch somewhere

It would be relatively easy to install a Tado system with multiple TRVs and a single master stat to replace the function of the timer, and the two zone switches. The tado wireless kit with HW has a two relay receiver which will fire the boiler for HW only, or will also open the zone valves when the the Tado stat schedule and temperature setting call for heat, or one of the TRVs triggers the receiver and opens the zone valves and the triggering TRV's own rad valve. HW heating will be active for any HW only or CH timed event, as this circuit is open to the boiler at all times. The boiler stove is cross connected in some way to the pipework, probably just teed into the flow and return. It will have to remain connected this way at least to the HW cylinder, so that the stove can sink heat somewhere. Its possible your HW cylinder has a second coil for heat transfer from the stove, seperate to the coil from the oil boiler circuit. Ideally the stove pipe stat should open one/both of the zone valves and pump its heat to open radiators on the circuit, and to TRV rads whose valves happen to be open.
I suspect that the zone valves themselves do not use their relays, if present, to fire the boiler, but just open when the switches are thrown. You can retain this general zone switching by installing a second zone Tado wired wall stat to control say the upstairs valve, but you would require wiring from the valve relays to then fire the boiler to maintain zone valve independence, as you now would have two CH zone timers. Again, if all rads have smart TRVs, a single zone will suffice, and the wiring to fire the boiler can be simpler, running directly from the Tado receiver to the boiler.
Wiring for a two zone CH plus HW system with zone valves can get tricky, especially if you have to consider a stove boiler input to the system, and require the valves to open and circulation pump to run automatically when the stove temperature reaches a set level. Smart TRVs might all be closed at this point, so some radiators should be open to absorb the stove heat. It would be better if at least one radiator was on an open gravity circuit directly to the stove, and not behind the valve, but this is not always possible, and the HW cylinder becomes the only heat sink in the event of a power failure to pumps and valves while the stove is burning. If you have any more information on how your stove fits in to your system, does it have a pump stat etc, its own pump and so on. It may even be plumbed in with a proper blender tank or manifold.
The new Tado wireless extension kit receiver with a pair of volt free double throw relays lends itself well to automating a gravity HW and valved CH system. The NC teminal of the CH relay can be used to connect the zone to open for stove pipe stat live, without the oil boiler being activated, allowing stove heat to sink to non TRV radiators, and to open TRV radiators if the Tado CH timer is active. I can give you more wiring detail if I have more information on how your stove fits in.

Thats a post and half! Fanatastic information, which I've been looking for for quite a while now , cheers deezell.

When our stove is running it heats downstairs whether the switch for downstairs is on or not. It heats upstairs slightly but can't manage to heat it due to the size and number of radiators.

I dont think there is any stat on the HW tank. The only stat we have is the stat on the pipe coming from the back boiler. This switches on the pump once the temperature hits the target.

As well as the 2 Myson valves there is a Grundfos Selectric pump which I think is the pump for the back boiler?

Creamy Goodness

Has anyone got any thoughts on the Heatmiser NeoHub system? I have an Air-to-water heat pump system (Samsung/Joule) with two zones and analogue stats. Looking to upgrade and HomeKit support is a must.

CrazyFather1

deezell wrote: »

Drayton is wireless, you would have to supply the Drayton receiver relay (HubR) with power, and insert it into the path of the stat live to the CH valve, then connect the old stat wires together (or turn it up full). Bit more wiring work. How is your HW controlled?

Sorry I missed this, I have a CTC EZIPROG 2-247

deezell

CrazyFather1 wrote: »

Sorry I missed this, I have a CTC EZIPROG 2-247

1. Retain eziprog for HW, install wired Tado stat in place if the manual one, turn eziprog CH to always on.
2. Get a Tado wireless starter kit with HW control. Replace the eziprog with Tado wireless ext kit receiver, install Tado stat wirelessly on the wall wherever you want, turn old stat up full, or remove and link the 2 wires inside.
3. Exactly as 2. but with a Drayton Wiser Kit 2, CH plus HW.

deezell

"Following a Bathroom renovation, the client could not get his Towel Radiator to heat....."
Tap to watch...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EaGnOhYqC3EIgnAIYGL547z4YWwjBYOp/view?usp=drivesdk

championc

chris_ie wrote: »

When our stove is running it heats downstairs whether the switch for downstairs is on or not. It heats upstairs slightly but can't manage to heat it due to the size and number of radiators

I think that's simply a case of balancing your radiators. Adjustment is made using the lockshield valve, so you'll need a screwdriver to remove the cap and then a pliers or small spanner to adjust them

I did mine by turning the heating on and whatever rads heated up first, I closed the valve by a quarter turn, and kept repeating the exercise until all rads started to heat at the same time.

You could start by closing ALL downstairs rads valves by a quarter turn (on the basis that downstairs is more or less already balanced.

It's a case of closing the hottest or opening up the coldest

Mind you, @deezell would be the expert and would maybe have a simpler or more precise method. All I know is that all my rads, if calling for heat, all begin to heat at the same time

deezell

chris_ie wrote: »

Thats a post and half! Fanatastic information, which I've been looking for for quite a while now , cheers deezell.

When our stove is running it heats downstairs whether the switch for downstairs is on or not. It heats upstairs slightly but can't manage to heat it due to the size and number of radiators.

I dont think there is any stat on the HW tank. The only stat we have is the stat on the pipe coming from the back boiler. This switches on the pump once the temperature hits the target.

As well as the 2 Myson valves there is a Grundfos Selectric pump which I think is the pump for the back boiler?

A little odd alright. If the ch is divided into 2 zones by valves, it seems odd that the back boiler can heat them both without opening the valves, Unless the stove flow is tapped into one of the CH circuits directly, possibly both, but that would provide a path to both zones if either CH valve was opened. From the stove perspective, your sysyem sounds like the usual bodge. From the oil boiler perspective, you could proceed with a smart controller and two stats to take over the function of the single boiler timer and the zone valve switches.

Bawnmore

We have a plumber coming out to price a boiler later this week and I want to make sure we get the groundwork done for an automated system if it's worthwhile doing now, but not sure where to start.

We're as good as starting from scratch, so just looking to know what we should be looking to put in place rather than any specific suggestions for products. Right now, we have an oil stove that (badly) heats the radiators and (also badly) heats the water in the cylinder. Water can be heated from the immersion either via a timer. We're replacing this with a condenser boiler and removing the stove altogether. The house is small (about 1000sq/ft) and there's a radiator in each room - 8 in total. The radiators have the standard on/off valves on them currently, no manual TRV's even.

It'd be nice to be able to control the heat in each room, but might be overkill given the size of the house (or not, I'm not really sure to be honest). I'm also not sure how much benefit we'd get from zoning multiple areas (outside of zoning heat vs. water) but open to suggestion here too. Is there a "typical" setup that's recommended?

John mac

if it were me i would stick a tvr on each rad and have a way of having hot water only ,
that way if you get a tado , drayton , or other system you can control each room ,
and just have hot water in the summer without using the immersion .
"S" plan

chris_ie

championc wrote: »

I think that's simply a case of balancing your radiators. Adjustment is made using the lockshield valve, so you'll need a screwdriver to remove the cap and then a pliers or small spanner to adjust them

I did mine by turning the heating on and whatever rads heated up first, I closed the valve by a quarter turn, and kept repeating the exercise until all rads started to heat at the same time.

You could start by closing ALL downstairs rads valves by a quarter turn (on the basis that downstairs is more or less already balanced.

It's a case of closing the hottest or opening up the coldest

Mind you, @deezell would be the expert and would maybe have a simpler or more precise method. All I know is that all my rads, if calling for heat, all begin to heat at the same time

Only notice this with the back boiler. Never checked on how quickly other radiators heat up though. Would there not be a risk of all radiators in the house getting slightly warm instead of at least the downstairs getting sufficiently warm from the back boiler if rebalancing? (Never read much on rebalancing as you can probably tell ) Is it something best left to a plumber?

Sidenote, bought a FLIR One Pro LT and jesus theres more gaps in my insulation than I thought! Good and a bad thing... I have my wifes head wrecked these days chatting about insulation, cold spots, window seals, smart TRVs, etc.