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3 punctures in 5 week period. Poor quality tyres?

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  • 06-07-2017 10:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭


    I recently purchased a new bicycle which has a set of slick tyres. I was advised that they had a puncture resistance of 7 out of 10. Not knowing much about bikes, I assumed this was good. However, I've since had 3 punctures (2 front wheel, 1 back) in a space of 5 weeks. Each time it has been a piece of glass that has pierced the wheel. They've now left reasonably large holes as a result (which is also a concern!).

    With my old bike, my last puncture was 6 months before that. These had threads, and I'm wondering if that's the reason why they're apparently more resistant.

    When I went in to repair my tyres in the shop where I purchased the bike, they said I could buy some gator skin tyres. To me this sounds like they've sold me duds and are now trying to upsell.

    What do you think? Am I stuck with shoddy tyres, or could it really be just bad luck?


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    What brand & model are the tyres?

    Some bikes come with lower end tyres to keep the overall cost of the bike down.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,942 ✭✭✭Danbo!


    I hate replying to these threads - as I’ll tell you I haven’t had a puncture in 18 months and jinx it, but anyway...

    Could be brand of tyre, if it’s just a cheap aul rubber tyre. Gatorskins are what I use and find them pretty bulletproof. Figuratively.

    I’d also check tyres are properly inflated. Softer tyres will puncture easily. If you’re new to road wheels and you’ve got them up at 110psi it may initially feel like cycling on dinner plates, but you’ll have better luck and you’ll go faster.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Danbo! wrote: »
    I hate replying to these threads - as I’ll tell you I haven’t had a puncture in 18 months and jinx it, but anyway...

    Could be brand of tyre, if it’s just a cheap aul rubber tyre. Gatorskins are what I use and find them pretty bulletproof. Figuratively.

    I’d also check tyres are properly inflated. Softer tyres will puncture easily. If you’re new to road wheels and you’ve got them up at 110psi it may initially feel like cycling on dinner plates, but you’ll have better luck and you’ll go faster.

    Make sure the spare tubes are ready for tomorrow ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,930 ✭✭✭Jimoslimos


    Danbo! wrote: »
    Could be brand of tyre, if it’s just a cheap aul rubber tyre. Gatorskins are what I use and find them pretty bulletproof. Figuratively.

    I’d also check tyres are properly inflated. Softer tyres will puncture easily. If you’re new to road wheels and you’ve got them up at 110psi it may initially feel like cycling on dinner plates, but you’ll have better luck and you’ll go faster.
    I had awful problems with Gatorskins and punctures after only 2000 km, including three punctures during a sportive. Wear indicators were perfectly visible as well. Plus they always felt a bit sketchy braking in the wet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    VonLuck wrote: »
    ....I was advised that they had a puncture resistance of 7 out of 10. Not knowing much about bikes, I assumed this was good....
    What pressure were you running the tyres at? You say you don't know much about bikes - I suspect you weren't checking tyre pressure on a regular basis with a track pump?

    Think of it this way, if I said you house had a security level of 7 out of 10, but you didn't bother locking the doors/windows or putting on the alarm, that 7 out of 10 is meaningless.

    Gatorskins are fairly puncture resistant but have their drawbacks - slippery when wet.

    There's always a bit of give and take with tyres - those that are fast and roll well tend to be more puncture prone, those that are puncture resistant tend to be heavy, sluggish and have less grip.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 545 ✭✭✭lissard


    If you are running a reasonable pressure, you should be able to avoid puncturing regularly. In my case 90-100 psi. I check the pressure before I go out if time allows. Regular punctures at this pressure normally means worn out tyres. Other thing worth doing is periodically letting the air out of the tyres and inspecting the tyre for embedded shards of glass. Just squeeze the tyre, you'd be surprised how much crap you will find. Since wearing of the tyres that came with my bike (Giant own brand tyres) I've been running continental gp4000s. I replace them about once a year (5000k).


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    So I've gotten another puncture. I had pumped up my tyres earlier this week to around 100 psi. Guess it didn't help!

    I find it funny that you say about Gatorskin tyres that you got punctures "only after 2000km". I've had 4 punctures (2 each tyre) after only 600km!

    The tyres that are on my current bike are 700x25C SR-4 (Giant). Any opinions on this particular type?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,942 ✭✭✭Danbo!


    VonLuck wrote: »
    So I've gotten another puncture. I had pumped up my tyres earlier this week to around 100 psi. Guess it didn't help!

    I find it funny that you say about Gatorskin tyres that you got punctures "only after 2000km". I've had 4 punctures (2 each tyre) after only 600km!

    The tyres that are on my current bike are 700x25C SR-4 (Giant). Any opinions on this particular type?

    My gatorskins are almost up for replacement, closing in on 10,000km now :o

    The yokes that came with the bike are probably just ok, no experience with them myself. I do find though that if I leave the bike unused for longer than a weekend the tyre pressure drops considerably faster than with frequent use. Unsure why, I only use it for commuting so an hour a day five days a week.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,691 ✭✭✭Taxuser1


    I'd say change your route to wherever you're heading to because there's too much grit including glass. Not being smart but are you cycling right into the side of the road and through roads with a build up of road grit? Or through Temple Bar? Your probability in puncturing is really high.

    Also, are you replacing tubes yourself? Are the puncturing around the valve?


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    VonLuck wrote: »
    So I've gotten another puncture. I had pumped up my tyres earlier this week to around 100 psi. Guess it didn't help!

    I find it funny that you say about Gatorskin tyres that you got punctures "only after 2000km". I've had 4 punctures (2 each tyre) after only 600km!

    The tyres that are on my current bike are 700x25C SR-4 (Giant). Any opinions on this particular type?

    100psi might be a bit low, what do the tyres say on them? I'd usually do 120psi +.

    As for that tyre, I just bought a new Giant, and the shop said that the Giant tyres are muck, they included alternatives with the bike. So I'd be changing your tyres to something more resilient.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 39 Searchers


    Your tyres are probably ok, and it is important to keep your tyres well inflated with a good track pump as other posters have suggested - at least once a week.

    Also important to closely check your tyres after each puncture to ensure there is not a shard of glass still stuck in the tyre.

    That said, It is worth investing in a good set of tyres that suits your type of cycling, and there is loads of good advice on Boards and elsewhere on good tyres. I have had excellent service from Continental gps 2000 tyres (shop around for best prices) and also with gatorskins (though there are varying experiences reported from others). Less good experience with a number of other brands...

    Don't let a run of punctures put you off!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 Searchers


    As for that tyre, I just bought a new Giant, and the shop said that the Giant tyres are muck.

    Hadn't seen above when I posted, so wasn't contradicting!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭Mercian Pro


    The shed is festooned with cheap tyres (including Giant PR-3's) that came with bikes or wheels. All of them punchured soon after I got them and were replaced with Conti GP 4000's or GP 4 Seasons. Recently I have started using Vittoria Rubino Pro's and, so far, find them to be as good as the Conti's for grip, puncture resistance and wear but quite a bit cheaper.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    The shed is festooned with cheap tyres (including Giant PR-3's) that came with bikes or wheels. All of them punchured soon after I got them and were replaced with Conti GP 4000's or GP 4 Seasons. Recently I have started using Vittoria Rubino Pro's and, so far, find them to be as good as the Conti's for grip, puncture resistance and wear but quite a bit cheaper.

    I used GP4000II's for a long time, and still highly rate them. Changed to the Vittoria Rubino Pro's and found them to be good in the beginning but I only managed 5,000 or 6,000kms to the GP4000's 10,000 before punctures started to happen more often than I'd like. I know that is still pretty good mileage for any tires, but the conti's manage to last a lot longer.

    I also ran Schwalbe Ultra-marathons for over a year and 10,000kms. Not a single puncture in that time. They are a heavy tyre, but for my commuter bike they were worth it.

    The shop gave me Schwalbe Durano Double Defense with my new bike, I haven't been riding them long but they feel good so far.

    I run all my tyres at 120-125psi.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Taxuser1 wrote: »
    I'd say change your route to wherever you're heading to because there's too much grit including glass. Not being smart but are you cycling right into the side of the road and through roads with a build up of road grit? Or through Temple Bar? Your probability in puncturing is really high.

    Also, are you replacing tubes yourself? Are the puncturing around the valve?

    To be honest, I get them repaired in the local bicycle shop. The punctures usually happen on the way into work and I can't exactly repair it myself in the office as I don't have the time.

    It is definitely glass that is the issue, but I've been going the same route for years now and never had problems like this before. My old tyres were a bit wider (700x35c) and had treads. That may have given it some extra resistance.

    I'm tempted to purchase the Gatorskin tyres, because I can't afford to be going on like this. I could have nearly purchased two new tyres for the cost of fixing the punctures at this point!


  • Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭Star hurl


    Same as above try and get conti gp or 4 seasons 25 mm pump them to 105 psi and you should be puncture free for a long time . Probably jinxed myself but nearly 3 years puncture free .


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,339 ✭✭✭✭jimmycrackcorm


    I switched to Tannus tyres and punctures are a distant memory now, plus not having to carry tubes, tools , cartridges, pump etc is nice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Is there any hard and fast way of judging a tyre's puncture resistance, or does it come down to recommendations?

    Finding it difficult to choose between all the brands suggested here!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,339 ✭✭✭✭jimmycrackcorm


    VonLuck wrote: »
    Is there any hard and fast way of judging a tyre's puncture resistance, or does it come down to recommendations?

    Finding it difficult to choose between all the brands suggested here!

    Well the Tannus are 100% puncture proof ....


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 Searchers




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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    How do the Continental Grand Prix 4000 tyres cope with broken glass? I know the Gatorskin's are supposed to be almost puncture proof, but I've read they are unreliable in wet weather which is a concern.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    VonLuck wrote: »
    ...but I've read they are unreliable in wet weather which is a concern.
    They are not unreliable as such, you just have to ease off a bit more on bends/roundabouts etc. when wet (especially when using the 'Hard Shell' version of Gatorskins).

    GP4000's are very popular and lovely to ride on but their weak point are the sidewalls - paper thin.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,569 ✭✭✭mugsymugsy


    Without being rude. Go for one of these mentioned make sure they are pumped to right pressure. Avoid the gutters / edges where glass is and take it handy in the wet.

    For what is worth I had gatorskins and apart from a nail they were bullet proof. Sure the wet on the drains / man holes made it interesting on the commute.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,283 ✭✭✭youtheman


    I put sealant into my tubes after I saw an article on YouTube.  So far so good.  They claim it was repair up to a 3 mm hole (not a tear or snake bite though).  The YouTube clip shows a fellow driving over multiple tacks and broken glass and all the punctures sealed themselves.  I also note that when I check my tyre pressure it's always 100%, so I don't check my tyre pressure that often now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,194 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    SR-4? The ****tiest crap I've ever come across. They wear like no tomorrow, no grip in wet or dry, no puncture resistance at all. When I got my bike I thought they were the real deal then I got real and proper tyres. They are only good for doing donuts on the turbo.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 joatumas


    Most important question here is the reason for the punctures, and where the leak is in the tube.

    If it's because of a pothole, you will typically see two small holes produced when the rim compresses the tube against the tyre: pump the tyre to a higher pressure and avoid potholes ;)

    Glass, needles, etc...: change tyres and get a "Puncture proof" set. Use either Gatorskins / 4 Seasons. They are not bullet proof but they will save many punctures.

    If the puncture is on the inner side of the tube: change the rim tape.

    Many frequent punctures in relatively new and puncture proof tyres: carefully inspect the rubber for glass inserts


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Someone suggested the Panaracer RibMo as an alternative to GatorSkins. Are these a good, or even better, alternative?

    I've also been recommended to go for a wider tyre, maybe a 700x28c. Would there be a noticeable difference, puncture resistance and performance wise? Bear in mind I'm not a racer, just a commuter!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 joatumas


    For a commuter I would definitively for the widest you can fit in your frame/forks. It will be much more confortable because of the drop in the tyre presure.

    Regarding punctures, for pinch flats (i.e. when hitting a pothole) you "just" need to ride at the recommended tyre pressure.
    That pressure will be significantly lower in wider tyres for the same pinch-flat resistance.
    For other types of punctures (glass...) I'd say there's no difference.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    VonLuck wrote: »
    Someone suggested the Panaracer RibMo as an alternative to GatorSkins. Are these a good, or even better, alternative?...
    Ribmo's have very good puncture resistance but they are a bitch to get back on at the side of the road (especially on a dark, cold and wet night as I experienced on one occasion).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,231 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Ribmo's have very good puncture resistance but they are a bitch to get back on at the side of the road (especially on a dark, cold and wet night as I experienced on one occasion).

    Well that scenario wouldn't be an issue for me. Only a short commute and if I did get a puncture I would just walk the rest of the way and repair at home or in the bike shop.

    How does it compare to Gatorskin? Similar level of puncture resistance?


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