Is my chain worn

aidanki

IMG_0776.JPGGood evening,

I was examining my chain today with a view to cleaning it, so thought I would give it a measure regarding wear. See photo attached.

If Im not mistaken Im quite a bit over the 1.05cm per link which is the recommended before people change the chain

What do people think, is it time for me to change it

I cleaned the chain in the spring time btw and I have been using chain lube on it, the sky branded red stuff.

And yes Ill give everything a good wash along the way.

Cee-Jay-Cee

If it's stretched then change it, your only damaging your chain rings and cassette by continuing to use it.

BTW I can't see any photo attached.

Wishbone Ash

€4 will get you a chain wear checker on CRC - much easier than messing around with tapes and rulers:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-chain-wear-indicator/rp-prod10219

aidanki wrote: »

....And yes Ill give everything a good wash along the way.

Sweet Jesus - I presume you only cycle at night with the chain looking like that!

magicbastarder

aidanki wrote: »

I cleaned the chain in the spring time btw

good god.

tikkamark

I can't see the chain with crap caked to it!!

rtmie

Is that wheel rim damaged in second photo, directly above the 2 cm mark on the tape

Brian?

aidanki wrote: »

IMG_0776.JPGGood evening,

I was examining my chain today with a view to cleaning it, so thought I would give it a measure regarding wear. See photo attached.

If Im not mistaken Im quite a bit over the 1.05cm per link which is the recommended before people change the chain

What do people think, is it time for me to change it

I cleaned the chain in the spring time btw and I have been using chain lube on it, the sky branded red stuff.

And yes Ill give everything a good wash along the way.

Replace that chain immediately.

When you buy your new chain, solemnly promise that you'll maintain and clean it as a chain should be. You'll keep it shiny and dirt free. You'll apply small amounts of lube once cleaned and degreased. You'll treat your new chain like a new chain should be treated.

While you're at it. Remove your cassette and clean it. I guarantee it's absolutely manky. Clean the jockey wheels on your rear derailleur. Use a degreaser and a tooth brush.

Also, I wish my wife was as dirty as your chain.

Alek

Ah c'mon, bikes are for riding not cleaning.

Although I would give the OP's chain some clean with a rag, all I do to my bike chains is lube and wipe with old t-shirt every week or so. Keeping chains clean is a waste of life

magicbastarder

@OP - at the very least, get an old rag and run the chain through it. a few times.

07Lapierre

New Chain and while you're at it, a new cassette and possibly new chainring(s)

Keeping your bike clean is not just to keep it looking good, it prolongs the life of the drivetrain. (which saves you money)

Alek

Keeping your bike clean is not just to keep it looking good, it prolongs the life of the drivetrain.

I'm curious: What is the mileage you get from a chain? How often do you replace cassettes?

New Chain and while you're at it, a new cassette and possibly new chainring(s)

You can't tell if he needs new drivetrain without measuring the chain elongation or at least looking closely at the sprockets.

magicbastarder

yep, clean the chain first before deciding if it's hockeyed.

07Lapierre

Alek wrote: »

I'm curious: What is the mileage you get from a chain? How often do you replace cassettes?



You can't tell if he needs new drivetrain without measuring the chain elongation or at least looking closely at the sprockets.

No idea what milage i get out of a chain, But what i can say is I replace the chains a lot more often than cassettes. (I've only bought two cassettes in seven years and I do 12,000klm per year)

I don't know if the op needs a new cassette....but an educated guess says a new cassette and chain (A new Chainring is a "worse case scenario")

Alek

No idea what milage i get out of a chain, But what i can say is I replace the chains a lot more often than cassettes.

See, I do slightly less (10-11k km/year) and I am yet to replace a cassette. I do replace chains when they reach 1% stretch though (every 3-4000km)

And while I used to clean chains in degreaser before I am just not ar*ed to do it anymore, as there has been no noticeable effect on their performance whether I do it or not.

Eamonnator

I have discovered, since I got a chain checker, that I have had to replace chains and cassettes a lot less often than beforehand.
I reckon, I replace the chain 4 or 5 times, before I have to change the cassette.
I don't consider chainrings as consumables, I change them so seldom.
In the interest of full disclosure, I clean my chain after almost every use. I rub a rag over the chain and relube. And I interchange cassettes, depending on use of bike.
I do about 15,000kms per year, all recreational, in all weathers.
If you keep chains and cassettes clean and lubed, and replaced at correct intervals, they last much much longer. And the chainrings last almost indefinitely.

07Lapierre

Alek wrote: »

See, I do slightly less (10-11k km/year) and I am yet to replace a cassette. I do replace chains when they reach 1% stretch though (every 3-4000km)

And while I used to clean chains in degreaser before I am just not ar*ed to do it anymore, as there has been no noticeable effect on their performance whether I do it or not.

Fair play to you! A new chain every 3-4000klm? wow that's much more frequent than me. I use a chain wear indicator and replace the chain when needed.

Alek

Maybe that's the difference with cleaning, but hey, its only 12e every 4-5 months or so

tomasrojo

My bakfiets, in the Dutch manner, has a chain case. It's incredible how little chain wear you get. I've only oiled the chain twice in a year/~7500km, and even then I only oiled it because I'd taken off the case to check the chain (each link was still 1"; no appreciable wear) and thought I might as well take the opportunity

Anyway, not an option on a derailleur bike, but a chain case really makes an enormous difference. A mudflap on the front mudguard makes a big difference too.

Alek

This proves that chain "stretch" is only due to dust/sand particles slowly milling the pins and rollers, not a real stretch. I don't believe thought that even meticulous cleaning can help with getting rid of them, once they find the way inside

tomasrojo

Alek wrote: »

This proves that chain "stretch" is only due to dust/sand particles slowly milling the pins and rollers, not a real stretch.

That's my understanding. The dirt thrown up by the front wheel (other sources are much less important) gets mixed up with the oil on the chain and forms an abrasive paste.

Cleaning definitely helps, but keeping the dirt off in the first place is very effective.

07Lapierre

tomasrojo wrote: »

That's my understanding. The dirt thrown up by the front wheel (other sources are much less important) gets mixed up with the oil on the chain and forms an abrasive paste.

Cleaning definitely helps, but keeping the dirt off in the first place is very effective.

The photo of the OP's chain clearly shows way too much oil/gunk on the chain!

I use a very light spray oil. I spray the oil onto a sponge and i then run the chain thru the sponge for ONE revolution only. You can't even see the oil on the chain.

tomasrojo

In older books I think chain cases are sometimes called "oil baths" because they did used to have a well of oil that the chain passed through. Apparently this design led to chains that lasted nearly forever. It must have been too much bother because nobody uses this design any more. You need a casing that doesn't leak, for a start.

Alek

I use a very light spray oil. I spray the oil onto a sponge and i then run the chain thru the sponge for ONE revolution only. You can't even see the oil on the chain.

Interesting, I believe that its the internal surface of the roller (which runs on the pin) that has to be lubricated, not external one that contacts the cog. This way you surely can't get much oil inside!

This is why motorcycle chains have rubber o-rings on the rollers, to keep the oil in and prevent grit from entering.

07Lapierre

Alek wrote: »

Interesting, I believe that its the internal surface of the roller (which runs on the pin) that has to be lubricated, not external one that contacts the cog. This way you surely can't get much oil inside!

This is why motorcycle chains have rubber o-rings on the rollers, to keep the oil in and prevent grit from entering.

Thats correct. Once i apply the oil...I spin the pedals a few times, this works the oil into the rollers. I then leave it to sit for a while, then spin the pedals one last time and then wipe off any excess oil. I hate a dirty chain/cassette! Not having any excess oil on the chain helps prevent it getting dirty in the first place.

07Lapierre

tomasrojo wrote: »

My bakfiets, in the Dutch manner, has a chain case. It's incredible how little chain wear you get. I've only oiled the chain twice in a year/~7500km, and even then I only oiled it because I'd taken off the case to check the chain (each link was still 1"; no appreciable wear) and thought I might as well take the opportunity

Anyway, not an option on a derailleur bike, but a chain case really makes an enormous difference. A mudflap on the front mudguard makes a big difference too.

That fact that it's a single speed is also important as there's no "Sideways" movement, which also adds to the chains lifespan.

C3PO

07Lapierre wrote: »

That fact that it's a single speed is also important as there's no "Sideways" movement, which also adds to the chains lifespan.

Funny I seem to go through chains very quickly on my single speed commuter ... sort of assumed it was because they can get more torque put through them than a chain on a geared bike?

Wishbone Ash

C3PO wrote: »

Funny I seem to go through chains very quickly on my single speed commuter ... sort of assumed it was because they can get more torque put through them than a chain on a geared bike?

Same here - only get about 3,000kms on the single speed/fixie even though the chain is much heavier than on my road bikes. I'm told it's because I have an even number of teeth on the chain ring and rear cog.

07Lapierre

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Same here - only get about 3,000kms on the single speed/fixie even though the chain is much heavier than on my road bikes. I'm told it's because I have an even number of teeth on the chain ring and rear cog.

You have to replace the chain every 3,000k ?? that seems very low? :eek:

C3PO

07Lapierre wrote: »

You have to replace the chain every 3,000k ?? that seems very low? :eek:

Yep ... I'm about the same!

The problem with single speed chains (in my experience) is that they get horribly noisy when they start to stretch!

Wishbone Ash

07Lapierre wrote: »

You have to replace the chain every 3,000k ?? that seems very low? :eek:

Single speed chains are fairly cheap so it's not really a problem. (The lack of a front mudguard doesn't help either).

Wishbone Ash

C3PO wrote: »

....The problem with single speed chains (in my experience) is that they get horribly noisy when they start to stretch!

Yes - in a clickity/clackity way which is embarrassing when passing another cyclist!