New bike but overweight

C3PO

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I'm going to be the bad one here, cycling is not going to help you lose huge amounts of weight and the person telling you that once you start cycling the weight will weight will fall off you is not being helpful. Weight loss is through 90% diet and 10% exercise. Cycling will help you keep weight off once you sort your diet out but if you think you will suddenly start losing kilos by cycling alone with no change in diet then you are going to be very disappointed.

Hmmm .... I started cycling at 107kgs and got as low as 79kgs when training hard last year! Seem to have settled at about 82-83kgs. While I would agree with Cee-Jay-Cee that you also have to address your diet, I think the important thing is to start the regular exercise - once you do that then your mindset will change and you will adapt your eating habits. If I was to suggest one thing to go along with your exercise regime it would be to cut out sugar .... certainly for me that was what really got my weight loss moving!

veganrun

Well I bought the Triban 500 today, my first road bike. Just went out for a spin on it there and it seemed ok. I definitely lean further forward than on my hybrid but not uncomfortably so, but then I only did about 2-3 miles. I'm about 106kgs and could feel it when leaning forward as my gut was getting in the way. Need to get rid of that.

Nice to have different hand position options but too soon to tell how they will be on a long spin. I know on my hybrid I start getting sore palms and wrists after about 30-40 mins.

Kent Brockman

My friend lost a stone in about 6 weeks from cycling. He didn't change his diet. He was overweight and still could do with losing another stone or 2 :P

Homer1798

Here's something to consider, when you buy a road bike your choice of tyre width can be somewhat limited. If you are not going to race you could consider a cyclocross bike which will give you the benefit of being able to fit wider tyres and therefore run them at lower pressure, the knock on effect is that a tyre with lower pressure will give you some "suspension", making the bike feel more comfortable (compered to a 23mm wide tyre inflated to 120 psi), and the larger volume of the wider tyre will also help prevent pinch flats. As you get fitter/lighter you can fit narrower tyres if you wish for the extra rush of speed, most cyclocross bikes are now also coming equiped with disc brakes which will offer better braking in wet conditions. Cyclocross bikes tend to be made sturdier towards road bikes to help with the rigors of offroad riding, and I haven't seen one with a weight limit (though there could be). Another added advantage is if you are self consious you can venture to less populated riding destinations like canal banks and tracks.

TGD

No point in getting a 'racing' bike if you are not going racing. Perhaps you mean it just looks like a racing bike. If so, make sure the shop is selling you something suitable - relaxed frame, low gears, wide-ish tyres, etc (i.e. Not for racing - it won't look any different to the untrained eye but would make a big difference in comfort) .
As pointed out, make sure the wheels and frame is within spec for your weight.
Check that your knees are not touching your belly when on the 'drops' (low part of handlebars).

TGD

Homer1798 wrote: »

Here's something to consider, when you buy a road bike your choice of tyre width can be somewhat limited. If you are not going to race you could consider a cyclocross bike which will give you the benefit of being able to fit wider tyres and therefore run them at lower pressure, the knock on effect is that a tyre with lower pressure will give you some "suspension", making the bike feel more comfortable (compered to a 23mm wide tyre inflated to 120 psi), and the larger volume of the wider tyre will also help prevent pinch flats. As you get fitter/lighter you can fit narrower tyres if you wish for the extra rush of speed, most cyclocross bikes are now also coming equiped with disc brakes which will offer better braking in wet conditions. Cyclocross bikes tend to be made sturdier towards road bikes to help with the rigors of offroad riding, and I haven't seen one with a weight limit (though there could be). Another added advantage is if you are self consious you can venture to less populated riding destinations like canal banks and tracks.

All this is sound but I'd suggest a gravel-type bike rather than cyclocross. The front angle of a cyclocross is steep enough for the sharp turns, making them a little twitchy. Gravel bikes are a bit more relaxed (poster, these still look like racing bikes)

Chuchote

I'm old and pudgy, and what I notice is that my weight, sadly, stays the same more or less all the time, but when I'm cycling for an hour and a half every day my clothes fit me better, because the fat turns into muscle.

All this discussion of what kind of bike to get is pure porn. If you get hooked, one bike won't be enough

And as I'm sure you've been told a million times, get a good lock (eg one of the mini Kryptonites plus the accompanying cable lock) and lock your bike to a proper stand through the seat tube (the part of the frame that goes from the saddle's post down to the pedals), with the cable winding through the wheels; or else through the part of the back wheel that is next to that seat post (plus cable through wheels), so the wheel has to be cut to get the bike. This takes away a lot of the value of the bike for thieves, so makes it more likely they'll choose the badly-locked bike next to it :mad::rolleyes:

beauf

The only place I would be concerned about weight on a bike (other than super expensive racing bikes, and/or Carbon bikes) is folding bikes. Many of which have a specific weight (loading) limit.

On my folder I try to take the smoothest route even if it means dismounting or taking a longer route. Put less stress on the frame.

smacl

Chuchote wrote: »

I'm old and pudgy, and what I notice is that my weight, sadly, stays the same more or less all the time, but when I'm cycling for an hour and a half every day my clothes fit me better, because the fat turns into muscle.

Pretty much the same here. My weight hasn't changed much in the last couple of years of cycling, and being off the bike five weeks now with an injury it hasn't gone up any either. Prior to cycling I was into competitive martial arts and had to make weight for an event which was all about diet. Since moving over to cycling and not competing I'm up about 13kg over 10 years (currently 88kg, used to compete <75kg). At a guess, some of this is age and a slower metabolism, but most of it is diet and not really caring about my weight. While it would be nice to drop 5kg to make the hills a bit easier, it is no biggie and I enjoy my cycling lots either way. There's a lot to be said for just going out there and enjoying it and not caring too much about anything or anyone else.

Budawanny

chatter1316 wrote: »

I have just purchased a new racing bike. I have never had one but always wanted one. Always had mountain bikes.
I am about to pick it up shortly but am having second thoughts because of my weight issues.
Are racer bikes suited to larger people. Am i just over reacting.

Don't for a second consider letting your weight issues stop you buying a road bike.
The bikes can take anything and you see every shape and size of person whaling it around Wicklow mountains. In the brotherhood of the bike nobody gives a sh*t what weight , size, colour or creed you are. And remember if it hurts it means your doing it right, but you will feel great afterwards !

veganrun

Go for it OP. I've had similar doubts.

Had my first 10 mile ride on the Triban today. Went reasonably well. I had a padded seat cover but not sure it helped much! But I wasn't in that much discomfort really. It was nice having different options for placing my hands. I didn't really get pins and needles although they'd still get a bit sore but it was easy to adjust.

Could definitely feel the difference in my arms and back leaning further forward!

Jimoslimos

veganrun wrote: »

Go for it OP. I've had similar doubts.

Had my first 10 mile ride on the Triban today. Went reasonably well. I had a padded seat cover but not sure it helped much! But I wasn't in that much discomfort really. It was nice having different options for placing my hands. I didn't really get pins and needles although they'd still get a bit sore but it was easy to adjust.

Could definitely feel the difference in my arms and back leaning further forward!

Ditch the padded seat cover. It might seem counter-intuitive but it'll be way more comfortable in the long run.

Deep Thought

Kent Brockman wrote: »

My friend lost a stone in about 6 weeks from cycling. He didn't change his diet. He was overweight and still could do with losing another stone or 2 :P

Do I know you? are you my friend? sounds like me !!

BTW, When I am out, My right hand seems to get sore a lot.

Left is ok, just the right

veganrun

Yeah will try without the padded seat cover. Might try the padded shorts though.

secman

Deep Thought wrote: »

Do I know you? are you my friend? sounds like me !!

BTW, When I am out, My right hand seems to get sore a lot.

Left is ok, just the right

Try peddling with your left hand...... gets coat and leaves the room ..

Couldn't resist

veganrun

So I've had the road bike less than a week and have a flat rear tyre already. The tyres are puncture protect tyres and I've only been out maybe 3 times on it and each time I've been on my normal route and not over bad ground.

I pumped the pressure to about 90psi and the tyres said the max was 116 so I don't think I over inflated them.

I pumped the tyre up last night and it seemed grand for a few hours but now this morning the tyre is flat again.

Is my weight the issue here or have I just been unlucky?

C3PO

It is generally suggested that heavier people should inflate tyres to the maximum shown on the sidewall ie. 115psi in your case. I always do! This gives better protection against "pinch" flats.
What make/model are your tyres? For commuting I use Schwalbe Durano Plus's and have found them completely bulletproof. Found a gash an inch long in a well worn one last week and still working fine! Also worth regularly checking your tyres for tiny bits of embedded glass - they can slowly work their way through the tyre.

Bigus

90 is too low min 110 psi or you'll get pinch flats , and don't go fixing tubes , buy 5 new ones for stock .

smacl

Bigus wrote: »

90 is too low min 110 psi or you'll get pinch flats , and don't go fixing tubes , buy 5 new ones for stock .

Depends on the width of the tyre. I usually run 75/65 on my 32c tyres when on the road on my CX bike, 55/45 if I'm using the wider snow tyres / off-road tyres. On 25c Durano plus on the road bike, I'd go 100/90 and never had a pinch flat.

C3PO

smacl wrote: »

Depends on the width of the tyre. I usually run 75/65 on my 32c tyres when on the road on my CX bike, 55/45 if I'm using the wider snow tyres / off-road tyres. On 25c Durano plus on the road bike, I'd go 100/90 and never had a pinch flat.

What do you weigh smacl?

veganrun

My tyres are 700 X 28 Btwin (Decathlon brand) puncture protect. I don't know how good they are but that's what's on the bike. I bought some spare tubes last weekend so will fix it this weekend. Don't know if it's worth ditching the Btwin puncture protect tyres and getting some Scwalbe ones or something.

My hybrid has 700 X 35 Michelin Protek and have been rock solid since I bought it back in March.

C3PO

Here's the Schwalbe pressure recommendation: https://www.schwalbe.com/gb/luftdruck.html (8 bar = 116psi)

Veganrun - I would definitely invest in some decent tyres if you can afford it. There is nothing surer to put you off cycling than fixing a puncture in the cold and rain!

veganrun

Yeah will look at it.

Stupid question but would bigger tyres be more suitable? The bike came with 25c tyres but I got them to put 28's on it before I picked it up. I actually wanted 32's or 35's but the guy in the shop didn't seem to think the bike would take them. I'm not sure I believe him.

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-road-bike-red-id_8377759.html

ford2600

C3PO wrote: »

Here's the Schwalbe pressure recommendation: https://www.schwalbe.com/gb/luftdruck.html (8 bar = 116psi)

Veganrun - I would definitely invest in some decent tyres if you can afford it. There is nothing surer to put you off cycling than fixing a puncture in the cold and rain!

I've gone way under those pressure recommendations without issue. I'm 85kgs and have run gp4000 at 4.5-5.0 for nearly 2 years now.

About a month ago was on a very greasy surface and left out some air, was down below 3bar for last 30km on pretty poor surface country lanes without a problem(not a recommendation BTW! !)

For comfort wide rims, circa 20mm internal v 14mm internal, are a game changer in terms of risk of pinch flats.

Recently had an old Aksium on front of bike for one spin; it didn't get a second spin!

@Veganrun if you don't want punctures Durano or duranoplus are good. Check your tube, a snakebite mark or its absence will confirm whether it was a pinch flat or not. Also run the widest tyres your bike can take.

veganrun

I'm not sure how to check what the widest tyre is that it will take. I posted the link to the spec above incase it's obvious to you seasoned pro's . The guy in Decathlon seemed very reluctant to put anything else on it but I got them to put 28's on the bike. I can see a gap of about and inch between the top of the front tyre and the bottom on the stem (upside down U fork thing) and about half an inch either side of the tyre wall and the brake mechanism.

Is there much difference between Scwalbe marathon plus and Durano/Duranoplus?

C3PO

veganrun wrote: »

I'm not sure how to check what the widest tyre is that it will take. I posted the link to the spec above incase it's obvious to you seasoned pro's . The guy in Decathlon seemed very reluctant to put anything else on it but I got them to put 28's on the bike. I can see a gap of about and inch between the top of the front tyre and the bottom on the stem (upside down U fork thing) and about half an inch either side of the tyre wall and the brake mechanism.

Is there much difference between Scwalbe marathon plus and Durano/Duranoplus?

I wouldn't go any wider than 28's on a road bike. Marathon Plus are even more puncture proof than Durano Plus but are heavier and roll more slowly. Probably overkill on a road bike but up to yourself!

smacl

C3PO wrote: »

What do you weigh smacl?

88kg currently, CX bike is another ~10k with bottles etc onboard. No issues with flats outside of the very occasional thorn and one sidewall tear.

smacl

C3PO wrote: »

I wouldn't go any wider than 28's on a road bike. Marathon Plus are even more puncture proof than Durano Plus but are heavier and roll more slowly. Probably overkill on a road bike but up to yourself!

I found Durano plus to be pretty bullet proof over the years I used them, on Marathon Supremes currently which are way lighter than other Marathons but overpriced. Had Marathon plus on a rental last year and wouldn't fancy using them on a regular basis.

py

Just north of 100Kg and I run my 25c Gatorskins at 110PSI, any less and I'll tend to get pinch flats. Can run them as high as 120PSI some times. I top them up 1-2 times a week.

neris

I'm 98kg 1 bike with 25mm tyres run at 120psi and other bike has 28mm I run at 90psi. At my weight it's more diffucult on both bikes to move properly if the tyres aren't near either pressure