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Can you cycle upright?

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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭eeeee


    plodder wrote: »
    Unfortunately (for me), I think age (and not just having a mortgage) has something to do with it. Unless you maintain these fine motor skills from a young age, they are harder to re-acquire when older.

    I only tried it this year and don't remember any hands free cycling as a kid! Maybe I did, I don't remember.

    Seen one of the guys on track* cycling hands free, on his new bike, and he's in his 70's. He won a medal at the weekend in the 60+ category at the masters. Serious life goals with that guy!

    *hands free cycling on track is verboten


  • Registered Users Posts: 16,786 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    I have always found it easy on the work hybrid but only last few months have I tried it on the road bike. it took a little while but I can now do the nessecary free handed, gillet, food and take pictures.
    It's almost child like buzz cycling free handed at times.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,310 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    Equivalent to a motorist driving with his hands off the wheel and feet up in the air away from the brakes!!

    :-)


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,599 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    I only recently relearned the skill of cycling while sitting upright. Perhaps there's a level of psychology involved, but I don't think it's simply just a case of sitting up, there is an element of balancing skill which cycling with hands on the bars doesn't give. But when I started practicing, it came quickly enough. I'm certainly not at the level I could change a jacket while moving though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    nee wrote: »
    ...Seen one of the guys on track* cycling hands free, on his new bike, and he's in his 70's. He won a medal at the weekend in the 60+ category at the masters....
    Beasty kept that very quiet!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭2 Wheels Good


    Good core strength also helps with balance. Also, make sure your saddle is level.


  • Registered Users Posts: 718 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    I always found this next to impossible. Changed to shorter cranks recently, and suddenly I can do it (just about). I think the longer cranks were throwing my balance off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    ive a leg length discrepancy but this year i practice on every spin and have gradually got more confident in putting on/off gilet, etc. even yday i had an itch on my head so i got the helmet off and on without stopping.
    the key is to get straight up in one quick movement... and put weight on back of the saddle. the saddle does need to be level (or nearly)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    I do recall sitting up in a paceline peeling an orange back in 2015. This was in the middle of a 1000km audax and losing the paceline was not an option!...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭thekooman


    gaffmaster wrote: »
    I always found this next to impossible. Changed to shorter cranks recently, and suddenly I can do it (just about). I think the longer cranks were throwing my balance off.

    so basically your saddle was too high? :P


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,123 ✭✭✭daragh_


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    I do recall sitting up in a paceline peeling an orange back in 2015. This was in the middle of a 1000km audax and losing the paceline was not an option!...

    Skillz!

    I can't do it. On a long list of bike related things I fail at. Off Camber turns, proper bunny hops, CX remounts, sprinting.... it goes on and on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,444 ✭✭✭TheBlaaMan


    Unless the headset is set up pretty 'loose' you should be able to do it easily enough - its a confidence thing. Some bike geometry's make it easier than other to be fair.

    Pick a very slight incline and a gear that ensures you are having to put a bit of pressure on the pedals to keep going at a reasonable rate - there's no point in thinking that you going to do it much below 15kmph - sit up , as upright as you can, keeping a light grip on the top of the bars and then finally just with the tips of your fingers before you let go. The further you lean back, the better. Keep pedalling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    I think it might be easier to learn this while free wheeling down a very gentle incline, like 1-2 %. This is how I learnt this as a teenager. Once you've that mastered, it's just a small step to introduce pedalling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 140 ✭✭guanciale


    I can do it on my CX bike for much longer than one of my roadbikea. On that bike thenhead tube is pretty short - not sure if thats the reason but it feels less stable than the CX bike.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 492 ✭✭Gerrup Outta Dat!


    No. I even wobble a bit when I try to look behind me, which is why I got a rear-view mirror. Practice makes perfect, I suppose.


  • Registered Users Posts: 358 ✭✭Rambling Man


    No. I've awful bike handling skills. I know this and stay safe by trying nothing fancy and always giving myself time and space to make adjustmemts, drink, switch to the drops etc. And my sponsors understand that I can't straighten the jersey when I win a stage.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,599 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    guanciale wrote: »
    I can do it on my CX bike for much longer than one of my roadbikea. On that bike thenhead tube is pretty short - not sure if thats the reason but it feels less stable than the CX bike.
    Iirc, it's too do with the trail - the more trail, i.e. the further the front axle sits in front of the line you'd draw down through the head tube, the more stable the bike will feel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,769 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    That's it, I think. The longer the distance between the line of the fork and the point of contact on the road (essentially the point of application and the fulcrum), the greater the leverage, so the stronger the self-correcting effect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 718 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    thekooman wrote: »
    so basically your saddle was too high? :P

    Hehe. No because I raised the saddle to accommodate for the extra 5mm of difference and fully benefit from the extra hip aperture (probably not the right word for this).


  • Registered Users Posts: 718 ✭✭✭gaffmaster


    Iirc, it's too do with the trail - the more trail, i.e. the further the front axle sits in front of the line you'd draw down through the head tube, the more stable the bike will feel.

    Interesting!

    I've seen this referred to as 'rake' before:
    edit: Slightly different. It's the rake that creates the trail.

    1000px-Bicycle_dimensions.svg.png


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,769 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    I deleted a post of mine, because I got too confused.

    However, this has a good diagram of how a straight fork compares to a curved fork, an angled fork, or a fork with a welded offset:
    https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/270348/why-do-modern-bicycles-have-curved-front-wheel-forks


  • Registered Users Posts: 31,084 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    gaffmaster wrote: »
    Interesting!

    I've seen this referred to as 'rake' before:
    edit: Slightly different. It's the rake that creates the trail
    Almost, the rake reduces the trail. It's the head tube angle that creates the trail.


  • Registered Users Posts: 147 ✭✭gnarbarian


    It can be done, just practice! I could do it as a kid... I have mild cerebral palsy which messes with my balance and coordination... I re-learned the no hands trick on a mtb only 3 weeks ago!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,688 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    Easier of course with a longer stem. Maybe that's the OP's challenge - no-hands with a short(ish) stem?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,769 ✭✭✭cython


    MojoMaker wrote: »
    Easier of course with a longer stem. Maybe that's the OP's challenge - no-hands with a short(ish) stem?

    Stem length should only really be a factor when it comes to lifting off, or dropping back onto the handlebars though. While it may change the balance of the weight of the handlebars as well, that's a passive component in the system when you -have your hands off the bars. If you are pedalling, the movement of your legs would have more of an effect than that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,995 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    cython wrote: »
    Stem length should only really be a factor when it comes to lifting off, or dropping back onto the handlebars though. While it may change the balance of the weight of the handlebars as well, that's a passive component in the system when you -have your hands off the bars. If you are pedalling, the movement of your legs would have more of an effect than that.
    A bike with a long stem tends to less 'twitchy' than one with a short stem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,769 ✭✭✭cython


    A bike with a long stem tends to less 'twitchy' than one with a short stem.

    By virtue of the changed position of your hands relative to the axis of steering, and a short stem increasing the resultant angular displacement of the wheel for a given horizontal/linear(-ish) displacement of the bars - once you take your hands off the bars, that becomes largely irrelevant.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,332 ✭✭✭secman


    cython wrote: »
    By virtue of the changed position of your hands relative to the axis of steering, and a short stem increasing the resultant angular displacement of the wheel for a given horizontal/linear(-ish) displacement of the bars - once you take your hands off the bars, that becomes largely irrelevant.

    Way too much science........ It's like riding a bike you never forget once you've learned :)


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