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Regs re: FCUs and sockets/trailing sockets/sinks

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  • 25-09-2017 8:42am
    #1
    tooManyChoices
    Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭


    Can anyone tell me what the regs are re: sockets, FCU protection and their distance to water sources.

    I'm in the middle of having an extension built which includes a small kitchenette in an alcove.

    There's sockets on the wall on one side, above and below counter height, with the one below on a trailing socket going into a cabinet (for a fridge). There's an FCU switch which covers all sockets on this wall. The wall is 650mm from a sink/tap .

    I can see having the fridge on the FCU switch being an absolute nuisance and a lot of food getting spoiled.

    Can anyone tell me what the rules are before I talk to the electrician about this?
    Is it allowed to simply take the lower switch off the FCU?
    If I do this will I have to change it from a trailing lead to a wall-mounted socket?

    cheers


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    #2
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 18,007 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    You might get better response in the Electrical forum? Do you want me to move this?


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    #3
    tooManyChoices
    Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭tooManyChoices


    DOCARCH wrote: »
    You might get better response in the Electrical forum? Do you want me to move this?

    Sounds good, thank you.


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    #4
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 18,007 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    Just popping this into Electrical. OP may get better response here.


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    #5
    tooManyChoices
    Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭tooManyChoices


    Any ideas on this?

    I'd really like to avoid asking the electrician to do something illegal/have electrics not up to scratch.


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    #6
    Dardania
    Registered Users Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭Dardania


    tooManyChoices wrote: »
    Can anyone tell me what the regs are re: sockets, FCU protection and their distance to water sources.

    I'm in the middle of having an extension built which includes a small kitchenette in an alcove.

    There's sockets on the wall on one side, above and below counter height, with the one below on a trailing socket going into a cabinet (for a fridge). There's an FCU switch which covers all sockets on this wall. The wall is 650mm from a sink/tap .

    I can see having the fridge on the FCU switch being an absolute nuisance and a lot of food getting spoiled.

    Can anyone tell me what the rules are before I talk to the electrician about this?
    Is it allowed to simply take the lower switch off the FCU?
    If I do this will I have to change it from a trailing lead to a wall-mounted socket?

    cheers
    First of all, I don't think you need the switch to be fused (the F of FCU) - there is a fuse in the plug top, and the point of the switch is provide isolation, not over-current/fault-current protection.

    Secondly: the point of these switches is to enable accessible switching to inaccessible sockets e.g. your dishwasher, your microwave maybe, your fridge - these types of appliances that typically cover their sockets or the sockets of which aren't easily accessed. So the most prudent approach would be to only have the inaccessible sockets on the switch, and every other socket be supplied directly without an intermediate switch.

    This trailing lead - how is it done - is it simply a socket which isn't attached to a wall?


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    #7
    tooManyChoices
    Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭tooManyChoices


    Dardania wrote: »
    First of all, I don't think you need the switch to be fused (the F of FCU) - there is a fuse in the plug top, and the point of the switch is provide isolation, not over-current/fault-current protection.

    Secondly: the point of these switches is to enable accessible switching to inaccessible sockets e.g. your dishwasher, your microwave maybe, your fridge - these types of appliances that typically cover their sockets or the sockets of which aren't easily accessed. So the most prudent approach would be to only have the inaccessible sockets on the switch, and every other socket be supplied directly without an intermediate switch.

    Interesting. So these are all convenience features rather than safety requirements?


    Dardania wrote: »
    This trailing lead - how is it done - is it simply a socket which isn't attached to a wall?
    Yup, a 1m wire sticking out of the wall that goes into a normal (would be) wall-mounted surface box/socket.


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    #8
    Dardania
    Registered Users Posts: 3,612 ✭✭✭Dardania


    tooManyChoices wrote: »
    Dardania wrote: »
    First of all, I don't think you need the switch to be fused (the F of FCU) - there is a fuse in the plug top, and the point of the switch is provide isolation, not over-current/fault-current protection.

    Secondly: the point of these switches is to enable accessible switching to inaccessible sockets e.g. your dishwasher, your microwave maybe, your fridge - these types of appliances that typically cover their sockets or the sockets of which aren't easily accessed. So the most prudent approach would be to only have the inaccessible sockets on the switch, and every other socket be supplied directly without an intermediate switch.

    Interesting. So these are all convenience features rather than safety requirements?


    Dardania wrote: »
    This trailing lead - how is it done - is it simply a socket which isn't attached to a wall?
    Yup, a 1m wire sticking out of the wall that goes into a normal (would be) wall-mounted surface box/socket.
    a convenient way to achieve safety. How it was explained to me when the regulations introduced it was in case the compressor on your fridge goes on fire or the washing machine refuses to stop refilling, you would be able to isolate the power without dragging the appliance out.

    RE your trailing socket - my memory is fuzzy as to whether this is permitted - perhaps 2011 can recall? I have a vague recollection of sockets needing to be affixed to a firm surface...so you may need to check into that point. But that is aside from your main thread point - the fact it's a trailing socket has no bearing on whether or not it should be remotely isolatable - if you can't access the socket without opening cupoards, moving appliances etc. it needs to be remotely switched.


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    #9
    tooManyChoices
    Closed Accounts Posts: 98 ✭✭tooManyChoices


    Dardania wrote: »
    a convenient way to achieve safety. How it was explained to me when the regulations introduced it was in case the compressor on your fridge goes on fire or the washing machine refuses to stop refilling, you would be able to isolate the power without dragging the appliance out.

    Fair enough, sounds like it's staying as is.
    Dardania wrote: »
    RE your trailing socket - my memory is fuzzy as to whether this is permitted - perhaps 2011 can recall? I have a vague recollection of sockets needing to be affixed to a firm surface...so you may need to check into that point. But that is aside from your main thread point - the fact it's a trailing socket has no bearing on whether or not it should be remotely isolatable - if you can't access the socket without opening cupboards, moving appliances etc. it needs to be remotely switched.
    hmm, that's funny. It's not something I asked for nor was expecting for but the electrician seemed to think it was a great idea and it was already done when I noticed so I didn't see the use in arguing.

    Thanks for all the info


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