Is this 3 beeps (repeating) or 6 beeps?

mrcheez

Can I get the same chipset in a different mobo, or do I need to buy an ASRock mobo to avoid the windows reinstall?

mrcheez

I can only seem to find this on Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asrock-B85M-PRO4-Motherboard-Graphics/dp/B00KL9HCAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508767339&sr=8-3&keywords=ASRock+B85+Pro4

I assume that's the same as the one I got from Hardware Versand... so installing this I shouldn't need a reinstall of Windows right?

Cordell

savemejebus wrote: »

just checking as you said you needed this quickly for work, but you know that you will more than likely need to reinstall your OS with a new motherboard, right?

You don't need if you take the necessary precautions: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change

I changed the motherboard and CPU and I've kept my installation with no issues (apart from some cleaning of leftover drivers that was not really needed, but I like it so).

mrcheez

Cordell wrote: »

You don't need if you take the necessary precautions: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/20530/windows-10-reactivating-after-hardware-change

I changed the motherboard and CPU and I've kept my installation with no issues (apart from some cleaning of leftover drivers that was not really needed, but I like it so).

It's Windows 7 so same deal?

Cordell

I can't say for sure, but it should be the same. In my case I have a retail W10 licence (that is, not OEM) linked to my Microsoft account, so reactivation was instant.
For 7 you may need to pull the activation key (see the link) or contact customer support.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-to-recovery-the-windows-7-product-key/713e40f8-b736-4e6b-b7c8-c2eb70e950a9?auth=1

mrcheez

Cordell wrote: »

I can't say for sure, but it should be the same. In my case I have a retail W10 licence (that is, not OEM) linked to my Microsoft account, so reactivation was instant.
For 7 you may need to pull the activation key (see the link) or contact customer support.
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/how-to-recovery-the-windows-7-product-key/713e40f8-b736-4e6b-b7c8-c2eb70e950a9?auth=1

I'll just order the identical mobo, less chance of any issues.

I have a backup laptop I can use in the meantime.

Cordell

Even with an identical motherboard it's very likely that Windows will have to be reactivated, but it should not be a problem. Either use the old activation key (retrieve it using a tool if you don't have it) or call customer support.

But it will boot, and complain about activation - so you will know it the hardware problem was solved. And that makes me think about the advice above, you won't be able to retrieve the key if your computer does not start...

mrcheez

mrcheez wrote: »

I can only seem to find this on Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Asrock-B85M-PRO4-Motherboard-Graphics/dp/B00KL9HCAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1508767339&sr=8-3&keywords=ASRock+B85+Pro4

I assume that's the same as the one I got from Hardware Versand... so installing this I shouldn't need a reinstall of Windows right?

actually I think that's a micro ATX motherboard

this is the one I have a B85, not B85M

https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-B85-CrossFireX-Motherboard-PRO4/dp/B00D3IKLLO

mrcheez

So, yeah looks like I'll need to get a new type mobo after all as the full ATX version isn't available (only the US).

Lucky I remembered about the micro atx stuff... all this PC building malarky has to come back to me

Lu Tze

mrcheez wrote: »

So, yeah looks like I'll need to get a new type mobo after all as the full ATX version isn't available (only the US).

Lucky I remembered about the micro atx stuff... all this PC building malarky has to come back to me

What's the alternative though? Would you still be under warranty if shop bought?

Unless you need all the PCI express slots, you could still go with the m-atx version. It will likely be very similar, and more likely to boot your current install than another manufacturer/chipset.

mrcheez

Lu Tze wrote: »

What's the alternative though? Would you still be under warranty if shop bought?

Not sure what your point is... I was merely complaining that I have to remember all this PC building crap that I normally would expect to have to do once every 6+ years or so. Kind of ridiculous for a motherboard to die after 3 years.

Yes shop bought is preferable as I have little interest in re-building a machine again, but now that I've gone down the path and wasted a week testing various things out and *possibly* changing the motherboard might solve it, I might as well continue this way.

Lu Tze wrote: »

Unless you need all the PCI express slots, you could still go with the m-atx version. It will likely be very similar, and more likely to boot your current install than another manufacturer/chipset.

Nope I need all the expansion slots and 4 DDR3 slots... basically I want exactly the same as I have so I don't need to go around re-learning all this **** again

.

TerrorFirmer

In fairness these days re-installing Win10 from USB takes literally 20 minutes. I do it often enough, it's really not an issue at all. Just get whatever board is cheapest and re-install using the Win10 creation tool on USB.

mrcheez

TerrorFirmer wrote: »

In fairness these days re-installing Win10 from USB takes literally 20 minutes. I do it often enough, it's really not an issue at all. Just get whatever board is cheapest and re-install using the Win10 creation tool on USB.

Does that keep all software and custom settings I've got on my Windows 7 install or I have to install it all again? Additionally I don't have access to some of the MS software keys I was gifted before.

Bit more than 20 minutes I reckon to get back to the same state my machine was in.

Anyway I can rant all I like, but it's not going to help matters much, so I just have grin and bear it. grrrr

mrcheez

Cordell wrote: »

Even with an identical motherboard it's very likely that Windows will have to be reactivated, but it should not be a problem. Either use the old activation key (retrieve it using a tool if you don't have it) or call customer support.

But it will boot, and complain about activation - so you will know it the hardware problem was solved. And that makes me think about the advice above, you won't be able to retrieve the key if your computer does not start...

I've just returned from abroad and getting around to doing this now.

I've managed to source an exact version of the motherboard I have which is faulty.

So, apart from re-activating Windows 7, are there likely to be no other issues and no need to reinstall windows/drivers considering the mobo is the same?

I'll make sure to put everything in the same sockets as previous etc.

Cordell

No, it should be easy, just reactivate Windows if needed. But I guess there's only one way to find out for sure

mrcheez

Cordell wrote: »

No, it should be easy, just reactivate Windows if needed. But I guess there's only one way to find out for sure

And more chances of conflicts if I get a different motherboard right?

Cordell

Could be, I don't really know about win 7. With 10 I've had no issues changing the motherboard and CPU from AMD to Intel.
So just try and see what happens, you won't break anything anyway.

mrcheez

I have to wait over a month for the identical replacement motherboard to arrive from China or I can get a different one delivered next week from Amazon.

I'll do a little bit more research into Win7 issues if replacing motherboard, before ordering.

Basically I don't want to have to reinstall anything as i don't have the keys.

mrcheez

OK, so my replacement board arrived there last week and I installed it today.

Whaddya know it works, and Windows loads none-the-wiser as the motherboard is exactly the same as the original model!
So now at least I can get access to all my old data once again! Cost me flipping €80 though to get the same model


Now I did encounter a strange issue... I tried booting with my 2 external HDDs plugged into 2 x USB3 slots.

This then triggered the familiar beeps once again, although this time I got the following error:

The following channel memory did not pass the CPU memory test.
Please remove the memory the plug in again.

Channel A

When I unplugged the 2 external HDDs from USB3 it boots fine.

Do you think the external HDDs broke my old motherboard?!?

mrcheez

Any ideas?

Is my psu underpowered as i'm running it off a multi adaptor plug perhaps and this might cause problems running usb3 devices?

Perhaps i should upgrade mobo to latest firmware first.

Wcool

Probably not the cause but I have seen similar issues related to this:

Did you replace the CMOS battery on your motherboard? If it doesn't hold a charge for a long time you can encounter weird behaviour like losing disks.

As you have replaced the motherboard, it probably isn't.

mrcheez

Wcool wrote: »

Probably not the cause but I have seen similar issues related to this:

Did you replace the CMOS battery on your motherboard? If it doesn't hold a charge for a long time you can encounter weird behaviour like losing disks.

As you have replaced the motherboard, it probably isn't.

It seems to be ok now, albeit I haven't bothered plugging the USB drives back in since.

So the Channel A memory thing isn't anything to do with bad RAM?

mrcheez

So now I've got a new problem. After using the machine with no problems all day, I did a Windows Update and it rebooted itself.

Now the machine cuts off when it gets to the OS selection screen (I have Windows 7 and Windows 10 installed).

Clearly something OTHER than the motherboard is at fault here.


Are there any good diagnostic tools I can use that can test out all the different hardware?

mrcheez

OK, so this is becoming a little disconcerting now.

The new motherboard appears to be fine, but on occasion after an hour or so, the system reboots itself and then blue-screens when trying to go into safe mode.

I didn't get a chance to grab a photo of the bluescreen before it completely turned off.

Any suggestions what it might be? Bad video card / power source?

challengemaster

It's either CPU or RAM. Nothing would point towards power supply or graphics card.

That BSOD will give you some idea what's at fault. You need to stop windows rebooting before you can get a picture of it.

https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/help-troubleshoot-the-blue-screen-of-death-by-preventing-automatic-reboot/

mrcheez

challengemaster wrote: »

It's either CPU or RAM. Nothing would point towards power supply or graphics card.

That BSOD will give you some idea what's at fault. You need to stop windows rebooting before you can get a picture of it.

https://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/help-troubleshoot-the-blue-screen-of-death-by-preventing-automatic-reboot/

I notice that the screen starts to "draw" more slowly before it bluescreens, e.g. the OS selection screen, you see the text at the top of the page appear before the text at the bottom as it scans down slowly.

I wonder if it's something simple like not enough thermal paste on the CPU ?


I'll try to grab a shot of the bsod before it cuts out again and upload it here

Cordell

You can try to reapply the cooler and thermal paste, make sure you clean and not top up the old one.
If it's stable in BIOS you can read the temperature in there, it has to be somehow a medium temperature, higher that normal idle but not too hot.
Also, double check that the clocks and timings and voltages are properly configured for the CPU and RAM. Try a memory test CD or USB stick: http://www.memtest.org/#downiso

Then you can try to remove all non-essential components, unplug all USB devices that you don't need, and see if it boots and it's stable - you can use some CPU/GPU stressing tools like prime95/furmark/OCCT, they will also stress the PSU, but beware, they can also push a weak component over the edge!

You have a hard to diagnose issue, so have patience. Try no to try more than one thing at a time, so you will know what was it that eventually fixed it.

mrcheez

Cordell wrote: »

You can try to reapply the cooler and thermal paste, make sure you clean and not top up the old one.
If it's stable in BIOS you can read the temperature in there, it has to be somehow a medium temperature, higher that normal idle but not too hot.
Also, double check that the clocks and timings and voltages are properly configured for the CPU and RAM. Try a memory test CD or USB stick: http://www.memtest.org/#downiso

Then you can try to remove all non-essential components, unplug all USB devices that you don't need, and see if it boots and it's stable - you can use some CPU/GPU stressing tools like prime95/furmark/OCCT, they will also stress the PSU, but beware, they can also push a weak component over the edge!

You have a hard to diagnose issue, so have patience. Try no to try more than one thing at a time, so you will know what was it that eventually fixed it.

Is there any software I can get that benchmarks everything to test RAM / CPU etc?

Cordell

I don't know any software that do all and do it well. You need just 2: memtest bootable tool, and OCCT that does CPU and GPU.
But, for the moment, try memtest and see if it passes. Before that, double check CPU cooling and BIOS settings.

challengemaster

I'm not trying to have a dig at you here OP, but this is like dealing with a hypochondriac trying to figure out what the actual problem is and what you've done to remedy it.

mrcheez wrote: »

Reckon I try reseating it? Do I need to purchase some thermal paste if I do this?

mrcheez wrote: »

So suggestion here is get new CPU or new motherboard or reseat the CPU?

mrcheez wrote: »

I have the 3 ram modules now so I guess I need something with 4 ram slots.

Also should I also just buy a new CPU/heatsink and kill two birds with one stone?

mrcheez wrote: »

also is there any chance the PSU could be at fault and not supplying enough power?

mrcheez wrote: »

Is my psu underpowered as i'm running it off a multi adaptor plug perhaps and this might cause problems running usb3 devices?

mrcheez wrote: »

Any suggestions what it might be? Bad video card / power source?

mrcheez wrote: »

I wonder if it's something simple like not enough thermal paste on the CPU ?

You're mentioning things without any logical reasoning behind it and jumping all over the place.

Why do you even suspect thermal paste? Have you looked at your CPU temps? What do they look like.

If something's a problem, there's evidence of it being a problem. Meanwhile you're playing pin the tail on the donkey in a haystack.