Where to Start on new Garden

Howzit17

I'm new(never done any) to Gardening , so appreciate all the help I can get
A field ,under 1/2 acre was recently sectioned off for my new garden, .Apparently it used to be a mini  orchard.
https://imgur.com/BOVnq7z (this image was taken June)
The 1st thing I know I want is get some trees along the roadway for privacy.Any suggestions?
It looks like there is some good wind coming from the south ,see below
https://imgur.com/gtFp2MC
But have a North facing Hill pertecting me,see below
https://imgur.com/aTOQM2G
The sea (west)is straight down between those trees, I want to take down this fence and enjoy the view, but thinking it was put there as a wind break ,perhaps I should have a sunken garden for more pertection,see below
https://imgur.com/aoCfRPj (this image was taken Dec)
As you can see I need to get rid of the rushes, nettles, and has some jap knotweed which I will try to tackle Aug/Sept.Should I just dig up the rushes? How about the nettles?
I want to take down this fence and enjoy the view, but thinking it was put there as a wind break.
Suggestions for any layout or shrubs that might go better in certain areas.
Thanks

lottpaul

Just a few comments to begin -- you have rushes growing because your soil is damp and/or poor. You can easily dig them up and control them in that way, but they will return if the conditions suit them.
Nettles are usually found on more fertile soil though, or perhaps a previous garden/ compost heap. Again they are easy enough to control.
Having the 2 would suggest you have a mix of soils and that will dictate what you can successfully plant where.
For what will grow a good idea is always to drive around the area and see what others are growing in their gardens and learn from their experience, or visit a local garden centre. There are lots of wind and salt resistant plants out there. I'd suggest shrubs rather than trees -- you'll get quicker results, they don't drop their lower branches as trees tend to do, are easier to maintain and the wind won't affect them as much as they grow. If you are in a fairly windy spot you will need all the shelter you can get but a sunken garden on damp/wet soil wouldn't be a great idea or easy to create.
Are you certain you have knotweed? If so my main priority would be to a) prevent any possible spreading - section it off and don't even walk near it in case you pick up small pieces on your shoes etc - and then b) to kill it off over the next few years -- it will take that long to be certain it's gone. Don't attempt to dig it out or to plant anything near it.

Howzit17

Thanks for responding.
Some things to think about.
Yes, pretty certain that I have some knotweed.
I didn't think of sectioning it off, have builders here working on house at moment and have all their vans,equipment parked there at the moment.
In addition to that the previous owner burned some old stuff from house in that spot,before turning it over to me, burning few bits of the knotweed in the process, disaster, I know.
They did dig a drain around the outside of the fence, so hopefully that will help with the damp soil.but I'll still put the sunken garden idea to rest.
I think they used to have fruit trees in that section mayb 20/30+ years ago, but has since been a grazing area for sheep.
I would like a kind of wild cottage type garden, no lines,just lots wild flower,long grasses,shrubs.,etc but dont know where to start.
There is plenty of fuchsia/honeysuckle and some others i don't know the name of in the area, which I quite like.perhaps could be something to consider along the fence by the road for privacy.
Would be nice to have some evergreens for a wee bit of life in the winter.
There is a kind of marshland/bird reserve just beyond the trees, between the field and the ocean, so it would be nice to have some plants/shrubs/trees to draw up the wildlife throughout the seasons.
Thanks again,
Appreciate your thoughts

Howzit17

Good news, got access to lots of seaweed washed from winter storms.How can I put all this good stuff to good use over the winter?

lottpaul

The seaweed is good for veg beds -- you can either leave it in a compost heap and wait for it to decompose before use (it can be very, very smelly) or you can just spread it now in a layer over the area you're going to plant.
Grasses like poorer soil so you should be able to grow a good selection - there are lots of differing colours, heights etc -- its really just a matter of personal choice but I'd avoid any sort of pampa grass -- their leaves are just too sharp and they dont make great neighbours. It's an idea to draw out an actual plan of the garden and get an idea of where you're going to put what.
Evergreens will give you better cover than fuchsia etc. Anything with greyish/furry leaves will tolerate wind and salt better than others and you can find some with flowers and berries to add interest. We've used olearias, eleagnus and cotoneasters but there are lots to choose from. There are lots of plant finders online e.g. the RHS but be aware that they will categorise plants according to conditions in e.g. the south of England where its colder in winter, hotter in summer and far less wet and windy.
You might need to see whether your soil is acidic or alkaline before you buy some things e.g. skimmea, rhodos etc that would prefer acidic soil.

Howzit17

Excellent.Thank you.
Is there any use in digging the seaweed into the soil? Let say digging a little deeper then covering with soil then putting a tree in?
Olearias are nice, any particular type I should look for? I like the cotoneasters too, would they do well growing over the fence?
Thanks again

lottpaul

Olearias vary a lot in size so be careful when choosing. They generally have small white flowers (some have pink and blue) and not much else. They are really just for screening/shelter. Some of the lower growing ones might be best for you -- and always pick smaller/younger plants for a windy area. They will settle in quickly and establish better roots than a bigger plant which would need to be staked etc. The temptation is to go for bigger plants but the smaller ones will quickly catch up and do just as well.
You can certainly dig the seaweed in - dig a channel, put in the seaweed and just fill the trench in over it. I find it's a lot of work when its still fresh. You might be as well letting it rot a bit first but its very much up to yourself.
Most cotoneasters are happy in any situation -- the creeping/horizontalis version does exactly what it says and won't give you any height but its good for wildlife - bees/wasps love the flowers and birds enjoy the berries.

macraignil

If you are still interested in trees by the coast I have seen field maple grow in very exposed conditions but don't plant it where it would block your view or you haven't space for a big tree. Fuchsias generally grow well by the sea but some varieties are more vigorous than others. Ideally you should check with your neighbors to see if they could give you a few off-shoots of a locally successful variety. Olearia is a good suggestion and if you want a lower growing shrub I have seen Hebe variety veronica doing well in exposed sites. My aunt has an exposed cottage type garden and has red hot poker flowers, cordylines, and acantus to add good colour and interest to her garden. She also has a healthy if wind blown apple tree in the lower sheltered part of the garden and a nice climbing rose near the front gate. I'd also suggest myrtle as something worth considering as I have seen this doing well by the cost previously but the website says they need a sheltered position so you might need to get some other things growing first. I'd suggest only clearing ground when you know what your going to plant there as weeds will just regrow on the ground if you haven't got new planting etc. organised.

Howzit17

Cheers all.
Great got the birds and the bees sorted with the cotoneasters , I remember growing up we had an umbrella style tree growing in our back yard and it was always covered with robins, finch.etc in the winter, looked like a cotoneasters but was a small tree.
I was planning on a few maples alright, love there colors, thinking along the fence by the road, won’t block my view.Which would do better Japanese maple or Canadian?
In between the 2 trees already growing is where my view of Ocean is…https://imgur.com/BOVnq7z, and thats where I prob need some wind block, but then no views .Perhaps something thick that don’t grow too high.
I should also add that this garden will remain unattended for periods, so looking for low maintenance shrubs/plants.Like the red hot poker flowers ,acanthus and myrtle is beautiful.I love the rhododendron but they don’t like wet soil, perhaps along the edge of field by the fence?
I will have some time now over Dec to get to some planting done, is this a good time to get them in? Most of these will still be available at good shrubbery this time of year?
In areas were I’ve cleared can I cover with seaweed to prevent weeds?
Thanks

lottpaul

Maples are lovely but they don't really like sites that are too windy or too sunny (usually not a problem in this country) as both conditions will scorch the young leaves. When you get a bit of shelter you could consider them. In the meantime you could grow them in pots and move them to a sheltered spot in the winter/early spring.
Viburnums are pretty hardy - especially Tinus -- it doesn't grow too tall (2-3m) but does spread out a bit. It takes hard cutting back very well and will recover quickly though. Dogwoods and willow love damp conditions but willow may grow too tall. Both are deciduous and for best colour you need to cut the dogwood back hard in early spring. Looks good though and if you leave some unpruned you get lovely white berries in winter - until the birds get at them.
Mountain Ash is another great plant for berries and will grow almost anywhere - there are a few cultivated varieties in addition to the usual "wild" one but I prefer the original.
Myrtle is nice but it is very dark and impenetrable so I wouldn't plant a clump or row of them. One would be enough and as it grows you can remove the lower branches to reveal the beautiful bark. There's a variegated version called "Glanleam" which is smaller and lighter but will go back to green if you don't pinch out any shoots that are reverting.
You can plant most things now but if its a windy spot its best to leave evergreens until mid/late spring when they won't get as much of a shaking but you run the risk of them drying out if there's a dry spell -- May/June can be drier than you think so don't be afraid to water them constantly. It's a bit of a gamble -- wind vs drought -- and you're more likely to have wind.
I'd only spread seaweed on an area you plan to cultivate or plant in -- otherwise you'll be left with a slushy bare mess that won't look too good. Weeds are always going to be with you so don't get too focussed on them. Planting will eventually crowd some of them out.
One of the best tools we bought for a similar garden was a good, heavy lawn mower. It's amazing how a wild area can be transformed by a quick mow - and weeds dont like it too much either. Just 2 cautions -- you cant cut back your daffodils until June or so -- and if you want a wild meadow look you need to cut at specific times only. Otherwise, it's whenever you get the chance - and collect the grass -- you can dump or compost it.

Malayalam

Good advice in general. Just a few tips from me. I faced a blank acidic acre over a decade ago and my first job was to draw a plan - actual goofy pictures, which I still have and it is surprising how closely it mirrors what I have now even though the whole adventure feels haphazard and i don't remember consulting my pictures too often.

I do not go in for neat gardens, mine is a wild woodland, with some flower, shrubbery and veg areas. When I planted trees into soil that looks like your own, I did not dig down - I took off a circle of sod and then planted each small tree in a mound. Digging down can result in water logged roots, but some might contradict this advice. Anyways not one of several hundred trees failed for me, using this method and after a decade I now have a tall forest.

For boundaries I advise thorn, plant as small slips, close together. Interplant with Rosa Rugosa for some extra loveliness. I used fast growing basket willows where I wanted shelter and privacy first and fastest. They really do have an elegant bamboo appearance to them and can be coppiced later if you don't want them tall.

I tended to build upwards for vegetable or flower beds, as again digging down into that rushy clay soil is not only backbreaking but water-logging - so raised beds, with wooden or stone sides worked best. Get in touch with neighbours who might like to have somewhere to leave their cow dung (compost for a year) , I used mushroom compost sometimes which you can buy by the load, although you should leave it about 6 months to a year if it is still hot. Getting in a load of top soil (if good) might be the base for polytunnel soils.
If ever I used sea weed, I washed it first to avoid too much salt and composted it in the general compost area. In fact building a lovely compost area should be one of your earliest jobs - I used wattle fencing but there are lots of styles - as compost is the lifeblood of every plan you will concieve going forward. Get a nice book on composting. You will marvel over the beauty of composting in years to come!!

And - - I still look out every day and think ''Where to start?''

Lumen

I can't offer much botanical advice but I note you haven't really said what you want the garden for.

Is it to look at from your house, or spend time pottering in, or to hold garden parties on our legendary warm summer evenings? :pac:

The nicest gardens I've been in, even informal ones, have a journey in them. A focal point, even something as mundane as a shed or a pond or a pile of old logs.

Many things in a garden can be changed in situ, except for soil level around trees, so if you have any ambitions for re-grading parts of the garden then get that done first before the trees go in.

In doing my own garden revamp from the boundaries inwards. Fencing, hedging, shelter belt, fruit & nut trees and then on to specimen shrubs, ornamental grasses, paths, beds, then annuals.

Try and incorporate a utility area for compost piles, supplies, tools etc, and think about vehicle access (even for something quad-sized) in case you need landscapers with heavy equipment (e.g. towed/tracked woodchippers) in the future.

Oh, and don't plant things too close to the boundaries! When my fencing went I lost some mature trees and shrubs that were planted inches from the old fence line. 3ft/1m for hedging, more for trees.

lottpaul

Malayalam wrote: »

For boundaries I advise thorn, plant as small slips, close together. Interplant with Rosa Rugosa for some extra loveliness. I used fast growing basket willows where I wanted shelter and privacy first and fastest. They really do have an elegant bamboo appearance to them and can be coppiced later if you don't want them tall.
.........................................
And - - I still look out every day and think ''Where to start?''

Agree with the rosa rugosa -- especially if you want a sheep proof barrier, and the flowers, scent and hips are a real bonus.

And 100% on the last part -- your garden is a living creation that will evolve as you do - and will provide pleasure, exercise and a few sore muscles.

Don't be afraid to experiment - if it doesn't work, try something different.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

Cheers all.
Great got the birds and the bees sorted with the cotoneasters , I remember growing up we had an umbrella style tree growing in our back yard and it was always covered with robins, finch.etc in the winter, looked like a cotoneasters but was a small tree.
I was planning on a few maples alright, love there colors, thinking along the fence by the road, won’t block my view.Which would do better Japanese maple or Canadian?
In between the 2 trees already growing is where my view of Ocean is…https://imgur.com/BOVnq7z, and thats where I prob need some wind block, but then no views .Perhaps something thick that don’t grow too high.
I should also add that this garden will remain unattended for periods, so looking for low maintenance shrubs/plants.Like the red hot poker flowers ,acanthus and myrtle is beautiful.I love the rhododendron but they don’t like wet soil, perhaps along the edge of field by the fence?
I will have some time now over Dec to get to some planting done, is this a good time to get them in? Most of these will still be available at good shrubbery this time of year?
In areas were I’ve cleared can I cover with seaweed to prevent weeds?
Thanks

I think the japanese acers are generally smaller and more ornamental and its the sycamore maple that I have seen growing well by the coast, but not sure what exact species it is. There is one maple I know of growing out of rock right next to the sea on Inis Mor in the Aran islands and the same sycamore maple is found in a number of places around the island. It's definitely not a japanese maple. It's probably the one called common sycamore on this tree list and described as "very wind hardy".

It is a good time of year for planting as many plants will be some way dormant and there is less chance of things drying out before they get established with short days and low temperatures. Make sure however not to leave roots exposed to frost as this is said to be dangerous for plants. Make sure the ground around new planted shrubs and trees is well compressed to avoid frost getting at the roots but the fact your by the coast might make this less of a problem.

Howzit17

Rosa Rugosa...love it.
Thanks a lot guys .
I will get started on my composting now,me ma has lots horses and the dung is pilled higher from stables over winter,between that n the seaweed.
Would it be alright to prune some things that are already in these days,such as the trees or a skimpy thin hedge on other side of house(not in photos)? Or best closer to spring ?

lottpaul

Another plant to consider is Mahonia -- was reminded yesterday by the scent as I passed one in the garden -- and the birds love the fruit.
Pruning just to tidy things up is fine but as a general rule its better to cut things back just after flowering -- unless of course it's a fruiting tree/shrub in which case you'd lose all of the berries or fruit. In such cases prune lightly in late autumn, except for plums which can only be cut in summer when the sap is flowing.

Lumen

Howzit17 wrote: »

Would it be alright to prune some things that are already in these days, such as the trees or a skimpy thin hedge on other side of house(not in photos)? Or best closer to spring ?

I found this link useful regarding timing of pruning.

http://www.ukgardening.co.uk/pruning-garden-plants.php

There's also the RHS:

https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=954

The "pruning groups" are listed on the plant pages for avoidance of doubt, e.g.

Crataegus monogyna
common hawthorn
https://www.rhs.org.uk/Plants/4775/Crataegus-monogyna/Details
...
Pruning group 1

Howzit17

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2  Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

It's a bit dry for planting at the moment and it would not be an ideal time to be getting new plants established in the garden as they will struggle to find water when their roots have been disturbed by the move.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

It would not be the best time of year for planting since the disrupted roots of the new introductions will struggle to find water in the dry conditions.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

It's a bit dry for planting at the moment and new introductions would struggle to cope with the dry soil and lack of rain.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

It's a bit dry for planting at the moment and new introductions would struggle to cope with the dry soil and lack of rain.

lottpaul

Late August and September are the best times to treat JK. The idea is that the plant draws the weedkiller down into its roots as it begins to die back in the autumn.
Plant deciduous shrubs/trees from late September to early November. Evergreens (in exposed areas) are best planted in February or March when the worst of the winter gales have hopefully passed.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

It's a bit dry for planting at the moment and new introductions would struggle to cope with the dry soil and lack of rain.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2 Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

A bit dry usually in August for planting as the roots will not be settled and would struggle with the long days and lower levels of rainfall.

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

I'm going to attack the JK with a syrange and round up mid August when I'm back.Would this be a good time to get some hedge or shrubs in also? Thinking some of that Rosa Rugosa with Olearia Macrodonita and Escallonia Macrantha and maybe get 1 or 2  Carpe Myrtle trees in aswell

A bit dry usually in August for planting as the roots in new planting will not be settled and would struggle with the long days and lower levels of rainfall.
Please excuse the repetition as the posts I typed were not showing when I tried to add them.

Howzit17

Thanks all.
Is there nothing I can do mid to end of Aug to get started on this garden? My next chance won’t be until December

macraignil

Howzit17 wrote: »

Thanks all.
Is there nothing I can do mid to end of Aug to get started on this garden? My next chance won’t be until December

Dry weather is good for clearing ground of weeds as they are slower to get rooted again and more likely to die when there is less rain.