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Replace APT timer with Nest

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  • 03-12-2017 8:21pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    I'm replacing a broken APT timer with Nest Heatlink.

    The boiler is an Ideal Logic S24IE

    I would be grateful for confirmation on what wires go where.

    In the APT timer there are five wires, two blue, two brown and one black.

    As you no doubt know, the connection options are:

    N, L, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, OT1, OT2, T1 and T2.

    Pics attached.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭17larsson


    Stick the two browns into a connector and out of the other side of the connector bring two new brown cables (1.5sq or 0.75sq). One of these go into 'L' on the heat link and the other goes into '2'.

    Put the two blues into a connector and out of the other side of the connector put a new blue cable and bring it into 'N' on the heat link.

    The black cable can go straight into '3' on the heat link.

    Make sure the fuse is out before you do any of this (or even just turn off the main fuse at your board), also check that the fuse is 5 amps.

    It would be better to get an electrician though if you are worried about any of that. Make sure all connections are tight


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    17larsson wrote: »
    Stick the two browns into a connector and out of the other side of the connector bring two new brown cables (1.5sq or 0.75sq). One of these go into 'L' on the heat link and the other goes into '2'.

    Put the two blues into a connector and out of the other side of the connector put a new blue cable and bring it into 'N' on the heat link.

    The black cable can go straight into '3' on the heat link.

    Make sure the fuse is out before you do any of this (or even just turn off the main fuse at your board), also check that the fuse is 5 amps.

    It would be better to get an electrician though if you are worried about any of that. Make sure all connections are tight


    Thanks very much for your clear and concise reply.

    I have this cable from a while back when I installed extra sockets around the house but can't remember the gauge but I believe it is right, I would be grateful if you might confirm please. I will of course cut them shorter.

    I checked the fuse, it is a 3A Fuse so I believe that I replace that with a 5 Fuse.

    Regards


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    Well I have the Heatlink setup and working.

    Not sure how to tidy up this mess underneath though - would have been better if the wires could be brought in from the back rather than underneath.

    Any ideas anyone please?

    Can't get it to pair with the thermostat though - but I guess that's for a different forum - UPDATE: got it to pair by turning the Heatlink off and on again.

    But I think I made a mistake, I told it my system is a Combi boiler whereas I think my system is actually a System boiler and I can't find a setting to change to System boiler.

    Trying to get it to work with Alexa now - added the skill but its not turning it on or off. Tried:

    Turn on Nest, Turn on Thermostat, Turn on Nest Thermostat, Turn on Thermostat Nest, Turn on Kitchen Nest, Turn on Nest kitchen, Turn on Kitchen Thermostat, Turn on Thermostat Kitchen - what am I missing?


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,551 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    You don’t turn the nest on or off ,it’s always on. You set the heat you want “Alexa set the temperature to 20 degrees “


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    ted1 wrote: »
    You don’t turn the nest on or off ,it’s always on. You set the heat you want “Alexa set the temperature to 20 degrees “

    Thanks for that.

    So if you don't want any temperature/any heat on do you say 'Alexa set the temperature to zero degrees'?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 23,551 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    iba wrote: »
    ted1 wrote: »
    You don’t turn the nest on or off ,it’s always on. You set the heat you want “Alexa set the temperature to 20 degrees “

    Thanks for that.

    So if you don't want any temperature/any heat on do you say 'Alexa set the temperature to zero degrees'?
    Nest uses the gps and sensors on your phone to see if you are home , if you are not it’ll keep the heating off

    There is frost protection which kicks in at 5 degrees to keep the pipes from bursting.

    If you want it off just set the temperature low to 14 degreees or so.

    Don’t think of it as a conventional timer, it learns how long it takes to heat the house to the desired temperature, once it reaches thst it will then maintain it.

    The sechedules you set are what you want throughout the day , I have it around 19 in the evenings and then 15 when sleeping.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    ted1 wrote: »
    Nest uses the gps and sensors on your phone to see if you are home , if you are not it’ll keep the heating off

    There is frost protection which kicks in at 5 degrees to keep the pipes from bursting.

    If you want it off just set the temperature low to 14 degreees or so.

    Don’t think of it as a conventional timer, it learns how long it takes to heat the house to the desired temperature, once it reaches thst it will then maintain it.

    The sechedules you set are what you want throughout the day , I have it around 19 in the evenings and then 15 when sleeping.

    Thank you for your detailed reply; I have a bit of learning to do (as well as the Nest) :)

    I haven't set any schedules yet - will have to look at that.

    Ted, by any chance do you know how to change the Boiler Type because I think I set mine to the wrong type of boiler - I set it to Combi boiler whereas I actually think I have a System boiler.

    And if you ever got a chance, I'd love to see a picture of your heatlink as I can't figure out how to fix the mess underneath mine - big gaping hole.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,551 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    The installer set mine up so not sure about boiler set up.

    With regards the hole, if you get a light switch surround it may fit and cover the surround. Sinething like this : https://www.ie.screwfix.com/lap-1-gang-front-plate-with-double-module-aperture-white.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsK7RBRDzARIsAM2pTZ_nkLwDzMHCtdg3Jq-scN2O3Yg01ybikPe0X5-JrIZqkRbCKgKeq2EaAtyZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    ted1 wrote: »
    The installer set mine up so not sure about boiler set up.

    With regards the hole, if you get a light switch surround it may fit and cover the surround. Sinething like this : https://www.ie.screwfix.com/lap-1-gang-front-plate-with-double-module-aperture-white.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsK7RBRDzARIsAM2pTZ_nkLwDzMHCtdg3Jq-scN2O3Yg01ybikPe0X5-JrIZqkRbCKgKeq2EaAtyZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Thanks, that's a clever idea. I actually have a few of them lying around that I got in Roches Stores years ago.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭iba


    Wondering if I can trace wires from my socket to power the thermostat?

    If so, do I just bring one live and one neutral?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 467 ✭✭17larsson


    No, definitely don't do that or you'll spending another €250 to replace your fried Nest.
    It is extra low voltage so can work off the usb ports on that socket in the picture. What I would do there is fish the cable down behind the slab, if that's possible, and have it coming out just above the socket so that it plugs into the port


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