Cheaper to replace clutch and timing belt together?

rust101

Hi All,

I recently purchased a Audi A4 Avant 2.0 TDI (2007). The timing belt is now due so I was going to change that out ASAP. However the car has 145,000 miles and it has never had a clutch change. I think im noticing it slipping a little lately, i.e. performing a hill start or the first drive on a frosty morning in first gear the car usually idles if I dont give it excessive rev's. So anyway, this would lead me to believe a clutch change is required.

My question is seeing as the timing belt is so hard to get out and requires a lot of work, would it be cheaper to combine the 2 jobs? Basically saving on labour costs only?

And if so what money would we be talking, I've heard around 400-500 for a timing belt and then 850-1000 for a clutch?

Thanks

rex-x

There would be no real saving or advantage to getting the two done together, they are on opposites sides of the engine. The car is also not of huge value so if I was you id wait for clutch troubles before paying out for one. Clutch slip will generally show itself as slipping in 4th 5th 6th gear going up a hill at high load, not while taking off

rust101

rex-x wrote: »

There would be no real saving or advantage to getting the two done together, they are on opposites sides of the engine. The car is also not of huge value so if I was you id wait for clutch troubles before paying out for one. Clutch slip will generally show itself as slipping in 4th 5th 6th gear going up a hill at high load, not while taking off

Ok thanks for the reply. Honestly this could be just a new driving style required by me after changing car. With regard to clutch slippages in general, in say 4th or 5th gear going up a hill, would you notice a drop off in power or what would the indicating signs of a slippage be?

Caliden

Put the handbrake on and put it in second gear. Slowly let up the clutch. The car should conk if the clutch is grand. If the revs will climb while letting out the clutch it means its slipping.

rex-x

Caliden wrote: »

Put the handbrake on and put it in second gear. Slowly let up the clutch. The car should conk if the clutch is grand. If the revs will climb while letting out the clutch it means its slipping.

That's really not a very good test of the clutch for a few reasons to be honest.

Caliden

rex-x wrote: »

That's really not a very good test of the clutch for a few reasons to be honest.

Care to explain why?

biko

I find it an ok test and also use the motorway test.
You drive along in 70kph and suddenly floor it, if revs shoots up with no noticeable change in speed then it could be the clutch slipping.

Bigus

rex-x wrote: »

There would be no real saving or advantage to getting the two done together, they are on opposites sides of the engine. The car is also not of huge value so if I was you id wait for clutch troubles before paying out for one. Clutch slip will generally show itself as slipping in 4th 5th 6th gear going up a hill at high load, not while taking off

While you're technically correct , an independent mechanic will give a substantial discount for doing 2 meaty jobs together.

Complete Clutch parts prices have dropped significantly lately so shop around for parts.

rex-x

Caliden wrote: »

Care to explain why?

Typically the clutch will begin slipping only at maximum torque and continue like this for quite a while, 4th, 5th gear up a hill and pedal to the floor maximum torque will be applied.
If you start in second gear with handbrake up only a fraction of the engines torque will be applied before the engine stalls so it will only reveal a totally dead clutch not a slipping one.

rex-x

Bigus wrote: »

While you're technically correct , an independent mechanic will give a substantial discount for doing 2 meaty jobs together.

Complete Clutch parts prices have dropped significantly lately so shop around for parts.

Some may, we wouldn't offer a discount on these two jobs combined but that's not to say everyone wouldn't, but it certainly won't be significant imo

166man

At 145k miles (assuming its genuine) the car is likely on its second clutch so I'd say its worth asking your mechanic.

To my knowledge on the TDI the cambelt and clutch are on opposite sides so won't see any real saving in getting both done at once.

mickdw

166man wrote: »

At 145k miles (assuming its genuine) the car is likely on its second clutch so I'd say its worth asking your mechanic.

To my knowledge on the TDI the cambelt and clutch are on opposite sides so won't see any real saving in getting both done at once.

I'm on 132k miles from new, Petrol Audi. Original clutch and no issues yet so it's far from guaranteed to be second clutch.

166man

mickdw wrote: »

I'm on 132k miles from new, Petrol Audi. Original clutch and no issues yet so it's far from guaranteed to be second clutch.

Key part of your post being ''petrol''. Diesels are known to be heavier on clutches than petrols.

I also said likely, not guaranteed.

Truckermal

166man wrote: »

Key part of your post being ''petrol''. Diesels are known to be heavier on clutches than petrols.

I also said likely, not guaranteed.

Our last TDI had original clutch at 250k kms! This current TDI and the clutch was goosed at 50k kms!

166man

Truckermal wrote: »

Our last TDI had original clutch at 250k kms! This current TDI and the clutch was goosed at 50k kms!

They're both equally impressive figures!

rust101

As an Update, went for Audi Cork to change cambelt and waterpump for a decent 489 euro. Independent mechanics were quoting between 450-550 for the same job. Audi also give a 2 year warranty. With regard to clutch, Im sure its the original and I believe to be ok at the moment, from what ive been hearing its all about how the car is driven so fingers crossed Ill get a lifetime out of the current clutch.

Alanstrainor

rust101 wrote: »

As an Update, went for Audi Cork to change cambelt and waterpump for a decent 489 euro. Independent mechanics were quoting between 450-550 for the same job. Audi also give a 2 year warranty. With regard to clutch, Im sure its the original and I believe to be ok at the moment, from what ive been hearing its all about how the car is driven so fingers crossed Ill get a lifetime out of the current clutch.

Good result. Best of luck with it.

9935452

Truckermal wrote: »

Our last TDI had original clutch at 250k kms! This current TDI and the clutch was goosed at 50k kms!

ive a 09 A4 2.0tdi with 177k miles (283k KMs) and its on the original clutch and flywheel