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What cable??

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  • 27-12-2017 5:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭


    Hi all.
    I recently built a workshop at home and now the time has come to get it wired for lights and sockets. I have the 6sq twin and earth to get power from the house to the shed. But that's all my uncle told me to get. He's a retired electrician and said he'd wire it if I got the bits and pieces needed. He's away on holiday presently so here I am asking the good folks of boards.
    What size cable do I need to wire from the the new consumer unit to the sockets and lights.
    I intend to fit 3 double 13amp sockets, 3 16amp sockets and two batten lights overhead. Maybe a floodlight over the door of the shed also.
    Also what consumer unit do I need?? I asked him this before and can't remember what he said, I didn't understand it anyway.

    Thanks all


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 641 ✭✭✭kilianmanning


    TheFarrier wrote: »
    Hi all.
    I recently built a workshop at home and now the time has come to get it wired for lights and sockets. I have the 6sq twin and earth to get power from the house to the shed. But that's all my uncle told me to get. He's a retired electrician and said he'd wire it if I got the bits and pieces needed. He's away on holiday presently so here I am asking the good folks of boards.
    What size cable do I need to wire from the the new consumer unit to the sockets and lights.
    I intend to fit 3 double 13amp sockets, 3 16amp sockets and two batten lights overhead. Maybe a floodlight over the door of the shed also.
    Also what consumer unit do I need?? I asked him this before and can't remember what he said, I didn't understand it anyway.

    Thanks all

    1 row ip rated board should be fine, 1.5mm2 for lights & 2.5 for the sockets. Both nymj.


  • Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    Great stuff thanks


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Entertainment Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 22,584 CMod ✭✭✭✭Steve


    As well as the CU, you will need an isolator or NZ fuse, 20A RCD for the sockets and an 10A MCB for the lights.

    87WqT77.jpg

    Also, is it attached to the house or will the supply cable go outdoors?

    If so, T+E is not suitable, you'll need SWA or NYMJ.


  • Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    Steve wrote: »
    As well as the CU, you will need an isolator or NZ fuse, 20A RCD for the sockets and an 10A MCB for the lights.

    87WqT77.jpg

    Also, is it attached to the house or will the supply cable go outdoors?

    If so, T+E is not suitable, you'll need SWA or NYMJ.


    Existing Power is going from the house to the milking parlour. My workshop is at the end of a line of stable coming off the end of the parlour. Im only bringing power from the parlour through the stables to the workshop So will be indoors all the way.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,595 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    TheFarrier wrote: »
    Existing Power is going from the house to the milking parlour. My workshop is at the end of a line of stable coming off the end of the parlour. Im only bringing power from the parlour through the stables to the workshop So will be indoors all the way.

    So depending on the eventual combined cable run volt drop may be excessive if a 6 mm sq. cable is used. The volt drop in each section of cable all depend on the resistance of that section of cable and the current flowing through it. Each individual volt drop will combine to give an overall volt drop. Obviously the volt drop in your workshop will increase as loads are switched on in the milking parlour.

    NYMJ is often used for this type of application, but it should be remembered that it provides very little mechanical protection and is not UV resistant. If concerned that it may get damaged you could consider installing it in round PVC conduit.

    The IP rated board shown above looks ideal. It is best to gland all cables into the base.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    2011 wrote: »
    So depending on the eventual combined cable run volt drop may be excessive if a 6 mm sq. cable is used. The volt drop in each section of cable all depend on the resistance of that section of cable and the current flowing through it. Each individual volt drop will combine to give an overall volt drop. Obviously the volt drop in your workshop will increase as loads are switched on in the milking parlour.

    NYMJ is often used for this type of application, but it should be remembered that it provides very little mechanical protection and is not UV resistant. If concerned that it may get damaged you could consider installing it in round PVC conduit.

    The IP rated board shown above looks ideal. It is best to gland all cables into the base.


    The parlour isn't used anymore, the milking machine was removed years ago. The power supply to that was only used to run lights in the stables since.

    Thanks for your post, very informative I will look into the round plastic conduit.


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