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Smart Lights vs Smart Switches

2

Comments

  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Nelbert wrote: »
    If it’s a rewire you should be getting neutral at the switches and get deepest back boxes you can. Will afford you the freedom of choice.

    Let me just highlight and reiterate this part. The above is the most important advice, everything else can be swapped and changed later as long as you get this right.

    insular1, fibaro modules can go behind any switch your wife likes, talking to a SmartThings hub. Though momentary light switches might make more sense for this application.

    Also check out LightwaveRF gen 2 light switches.

    If you want you could also add Hue bulbs (you need the hue hub too) to add multicolour support and white ambiance support, but that is something you can always add later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭insular1


    This is great. Thanks all! I'm just diving into this IOT properly now at realising it's not as straight forward as I thought. Recommend any good threads/articles that would educate me on the really basic stuff so I can make better choices regarding hubs etc? I'm working my way through the stickies at the moment but if you think of any other essential reading for a complete novice I'd appreciate it!

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭itzme


    insular1 wrote: »
    This is great. Thanks all! I'm just diving into this IOT properly now at realising it's not as straight forward as I thought. Recommend any good threads/articles that would educate me on the really basic stuff so I can make better choices regarding hubs etc? I'm working my way through the stickies at the moment but if you think of any other essential reading for a complete novice I'd appreciate it!

    Thanks again.
    Not sure of many intro decks on the topic, planning to start my own journey through IOT here soon. The big things to think about for me are all about thinking beyond the buzz and hype

    Big Thing #1: Security V convenience
    IOT promises everything to just work and be so convenient. For example, it is convenient to be able to switch the alarm on and off with your voice. It is incredibly insecure to be able to switch the alarm off with your voice. If something goes wrong her it could be serious. 

    Big Thing #2:Ecosystem V API
    Every company and it's dog is trying to setup it's own IOT ecosystem and selling you on the benefits of integration. This is a double edged sword. As an example, say you have a good z-wave/wifi hub and you buy gear from Company A only to later find out that you are tied to Company A's cloud services. What happens if the internet is down? or worse what happens if Company A stops their cloud service? This to me is the biggest risk tech companies fold regularly, be careful tying yourself to a new company offering to do everything.

    Big Thing #3: Automation V distraction
    IOT promises to automate your life away, what it doesn't say is the hours of planning and effort it takes to do this. The hours of figuring out how to integrate alexa/google home with smartthings .... It also gives you great use cases that on the surface that seem fantastic. My favourite is the new smart doorbells that always show a video of a delivery to your door and you getting a call to let you know. With Amazon Key you go even further but note that on sale Amazon key did not integrate with alarms!

    Big Thing #4: Cost of true convenience
    These things take someones time, the only way you can build a secure, integrated, automated distraction free system is if you spend time. Either your time or a knowledgable installer. If you're looking at doing this yourself (which I am doing and am enjoying so don't get me wrong no doom and gloom here) expect it to be a long journey. 

    Some examples: 
    Deliveries to your door. Personally I would not want them to leave the package outside (as is often shown in the videos). Ok so I would want them to leave it inside the door. Easy, put a camera inside the door so that I can unlock the door remotely, tell them to leave it inside and monitor them. Sweet! Now think through the complexity of that. Smart doorbell, smart lock, smart alarm, smart camera needed. They all need to integrate and you need to switch between the doorbell cam and the internal cam after you unlock the door. So you're back to Big Thing 1 and 2. 
    Internal motion detection cameras. I have motion detection cameras at my parents home point at front/back doors. They are a dream for notifying me when there is motion and at the doors when they are at home or away from home. Except now I have a new problem, was that notification I just received at 4pm a problem or normal? Was someone expected at that time? I'd better quickly check the video to be safe. Back to Big Thing #3

    A fun example:
    I put a sensor on my door, a presence sensor on my phone, a presence sensor on my other halves keys and now if someone opens the front door when we are away the internal lights go red and the sound system plays a custom sound. (Practically I get notified :) )

    So my advice is take your time, start small and don't believe advertisers hype. This tech is very new, tease out what your use cases are and tease out explicitly what your use cases aren't, look up in google "cool things you can do with X". Where possible test out the tech, find people who have it go and try it out go to stores. Then throw them up what you're thinking here or other places for people to offer advice and experience, I've found this board to be my best resource for reading so far.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭insular1


    Ok so following the advice of the poster above I think I'm gonna start simple. Really I only need/want automated lighting in a few areas so how does this sound as a starting point:

    1. These lightwave smart dimmers for the kitchen where we have multiple spots that don't need individual control. (Have a chrome finish to keep wife happy) https://lightwaverf.com/lighting/11533783316

    2. Phillips hue for the feature lighting in the hall and sitting room.

    Does this sound reasonable? Will these two systems work together using IFTTT
    or similar? Will they work with Google home if a get it at a later date?

    Thanks for all the advice so far. Learning lots today!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    insular1 wrote: »
    Ok so following the advice of the poster above I think I'm gonna start simple. Really I only need/want automated lighting in a few areas so how does this sound as a starting point:

    1. These lightwave smart dimmers for the kitchen where we have multiple spots that don't need individual control. (Have a chrome finish to keep wife happy) https://lightwaverf.com/lighting/11533783316

    2. Phillips hue for the feature lighting in the hall and sitting room.

    Does this sound reasonable? Will these two systems work together using IFTTT
    or similar? Will they work with Google home if a get it at a later date?

    Thanks for all the advice so far. Learning lots today!


    If it was me, I would use hue for lamps to create mood lighting , and not much else. Everything else I would use wired or wireless smart switches.

    Hue will work with home, I believe lightwave will as well, and to be honest whatever system you choose, a premium requisite should be compatibility with google home and alexa


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 250 ✭✭insular1


    It does seem easier to upgrade to hue at a later date if I felt I wanted it so maybe I'd be better investing in smart switches while I have the electritian on site. How do you think the lightwave dimmer linked above compared to the fibaro dimmer module? Do the both do basically the same thing? Fibaro seems cheaper from what I can see.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    insular1 wrote: »
    It does seem easier to upgrade to hue at a later date if I felt I wanted it so maybe I'd be better investing in smart switches while I have the electritian on site. How do you think the lightwave dimmer linked above compared to the fibaro dimmer module? Do the both do basically the same thing? Fibaro seems cheaper from what I can see.

    Can't say on the comparison, I've not used either, I've a different system. If your serious about doing it, perhaps buy one of each and show to your electrician so you plan out circuits, back boxes etc ?

    The fibaro is a bit more flexible I think though


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Well a few things about the above linked LightwaveRF dimmer:

    - It is gen 1, that means it has only one way comms. You can sent it a command on/off, but it can't tell you what state it currently is in.

    Fibaro support 2 way comms. As in it can tell you if the light is actually on or off.

    LightwaveRF have newer Gen 2 switches that support two way comms, but they are more expensive, this is the Gen 2 dimmer, but as you see it isn't Chrome:

    https://lightwaverf.com/lighting/11481667540

    - You will also need the LightwaveRF Hub, they have different hubs for gen 1 and gen 2 and the gen 2 one is pretty expensive.

    BTW There is a very good post on the SmartThings forum about the different smart lighting options compatible with it. It is specifically about SmartThings support, but gives a good info:

    https://community.smartthings.com/t/vfaq-lighting-control-options-for-uk-smartthings/26252?source_topic_id=55822

    Unfortunately smart switches in the UK/Ireland market aren't simple and are one of the more complicated topics.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Again the most important thing is deep back boxes and neutral at each light switch. You can then always change in the future without too much difficulty.


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  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 11,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭lordgoat


    bk wrote: »
    Again the most important thing is deep back boxes and neutral at each light switch. You can then always change in the future without too much difficulty.


    Having replaced a lot of sockets in my house just with regular ones that have an on/off switch deep wall boxes are my best friend! I can't imagine re-wiring them again for anything else. Kango required.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    Had a look behind them light switch in our kitchen, and there's neutral wires there! So smart switches should be possible (will have to double check the living room and other rooms).

    I like the look of the Sonoff switches, but they don't seem to do dimming - which we already have in most rooms, so any smart upgrade would need too.
    The price of the Lightwaverf gen2 stuff is still putting me off.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Don't assume make sure to double check all switches. I found in my home that some switches had Neutral while others didn't. Just seemed to depend on the wiring layout.

    Check out the Fibario dimmer models as an option with smartthings hub or similar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭itzme


    bk wrote: »
    Don't assume make sure to double check all switches. I found in my home that some switches had Neutral while others didn't. Just seemed to depend on the wiring layout.

    Check out the Fibario dimmer models as an option with smartthings hub or similar.
    Perfect timing for a question, I'm assuming neutrals are needed in all switches (light switches, dimmers and plug sockets) if going down this route? Literally talking to the electrician about this today.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    itzme wrote: »
    Perfect timing for a question, I'm assuming neutrals are needed in all switches (light switches, dimmers and plug sockets) if going down this route? Literally talking to the electrician about this today.

    Yes on light switches and dimmers. Plug sockets will have neutral anyway. But good idea to get deep wall boxes there too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭itzme


    By the way these guys have just launched pre-orders (so anything from they are nearly ready to they are running out of funding) 
    https://getden.co.uk/

    I really like the fact that the switches are physical so switching something on/off changes the physical state of the switch. One big problems and one concern though, putting something physical like that in means they will break due to use. They seem to be cloud based rather the local API based. So switching on/off needs to send a signal up to and back from their cloud servers.


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    itzme wrote: »
    By the way these guys have just launched pre-orders (so anything from they are nearly ready to they are running out of funding) 
    https://getden.co.uk/

    Nice, seems to be a more reasonably priced alternative to LightwaveRF.

    Say it doesn't need Neutral and has an extender for shallow back boxes. So looks like they have properly thought about the needs to the UK/Irish market.

    Uses Zigbee, so while they claim their hub is required, I'm sure someone will figure out how to get it working with SmartThings, etc.
    itzme wrote: »
    They seem to be cloud based rather the local API based. So switching on/off needs to send a signal up to and back from their cloud servers.

    Seems to be Zigbee from switch to their hub. So it should be possible to set it up so the app continues to work even if your broadband is down, same as how Hue works. At least it should do if wee designed, fingers crossed.

    I assume the physical switch will always work no matter what.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 338 ✭✭itzme


    ybk wrote: »
    itzme wrote: »
    By the way these guys have just launched pre-orders (so anything from they are nearly ready to they are running out of funding) 
    https://getden.co.uk/

    Nice, seems to be a more reasonably priced alternative to LightwaveRF.

    Say it doesn't need Neutral and has an extender for shallow back boxes. So looks like they have properly thought about the needs to the UK/Irish market.

    Uses Zigbee, so while they claim their hub is required, I'm sure someone will figure out how to get it working with SmartThings, etc.
    itzme wrote: »
    They seem to be cloud based rather the local API based. So switching on/off needs to send a signal up to and back from their cloud servers.

    Seems to be Zigbee from switch to their hub. So it should be possible to set it up so the app continues to work even if your broadband is down, same as how Hue works. At least it should do if wee designed, fingers crossed.

    I assume the physical switch will always work no matter what.
    That is one of those circular security ones, if they have encrypted their communication between devices and hub it could be tricky to get it working locally outside their service. If they haven't encrypted well for me that is pretty risky (Does anyone remember the hell these little things used to cause: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000B19R0?tag=spiblog-20)
    Yeah the physical would be independent of the network which is one of the real beauties of this approach. 
    I've sent them a mail asking some of these questions and will add back responses I get here.


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    itzme wrote: »
    That is one of those circular security ones, if they have encrypted their communication between devices and hub it could be tricky to get it working locally outside their service. If they haven't encrypted well for me that is pretty risky (Does anyone remember the hell these little things used to cause: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000B19R0%3Ftag%3Dspiblog-20)
    Yeah the physical would be independent of the network which is one of the real beauties of this approach. 
    I've sent them a mail asking some of these questions and will add back responses I get here.

    Not really, pretty straight forward.

    Encryption between the devices and hub over zigbee. And separately have the iOS/Andriod app talk directly to the hub over wifi, again encrypt that link.

    Even if your broadband is down, as long as your wifi still works, most of the app should work too.

    That is how Hue works. Knock your broadband off (wifi still up) and the app still works, you can turn on/off lights, change colours, etc. All you lose is the more advanced features, remote access, Goggle Home, IFTTT, etc.

    That is the advantage of having a hub. Stupid to have a hub and not do this (looking at you Energenie MiHome!), hell even TP_Link plugs manage to do that and they are wifi only.

    Having said that, with the news of Hue gaining support for switches, my interest wanes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    bk wrote: »
    Check out the Fibario dimmer models as an option with smartthings hub or similar.

    Yeah, I think they're the best option - price is a bit cheaper than LightwaveRF (on Amazon), and the ST hub is cheaper and more flexible. Is Amazon the best place to get them (both hub abd Fibario), or just keep an eye out for deals where ever?


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 23,275 Mod ✭✭✭✭bk


    Yeah, I think they're the best option - price is a bit cheaper than LightwaveRF (on Amazon), and the ST hub is cheaper and more flexible. Is Amazon the best place to get them (both hub abd Fibario), or just keep an eye out for deals where ever?

    Obviously keep an eye out everywhere, but generally speaking Amazon is hard to beat.

    Though the SmartThings hub is currently £50 on Amazon, which is the cheapest I've ever seen it.

    https://www.vesternet.com is also a very good place to keep an eye out for Fibario gear, plus great advice.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    itzme wrote:
    Perfect timing for a question, I'm assuming neutrals are needed in all switches (light switches, dimmers and plug sockets) if going down this route? Literally talking to the electrician about this today.


    Lightwaverf does not need a neutral.

    Either does Fibaro but it works out better with it.

    SONOFF switches need a neutral as they switch the power on and off.

    I don't know much about lightwaverf gen 2 but the initial switches broke my heart.

    Sockets are great though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    Bought a Fibaro module. Any suggestions on a good momentary switch to use? Nothing fancy - just plain white.
    Bought some from Scewfix, but 1-way is not the same as momentary.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Bought a Fibaro module. Any suggestions on a good momentary switch to use? Nothing fancy - just plain white.
    Bought some from Scewfix, but 1-way is not the same as momentary.

    Head into kellihers electrical or other such outlet and try a few to see would be my suggestion.

    Avoid clipsal ones, they are very hard to press, you nearly need to lean your body into it when pushing.

    I have nice brushed steel ones, can't remember the make at the moment, but lively switches


  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 11,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭lordgoat


    Schneider everywhere for me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,027 ✭✭✭eddiem74


    Bought a Fibaro module. Any suggestions on a good momentary switch to use? Nothing fancy - just plain white.
    Bought some from Scewfix, but 1-way is not the same as momentary.

    I have used the following from Varilight which allows you to build your own switch combinations.

    https://www.varilight.co.uk/ranges/powergrid-range.php

    https://www.varilight.co.uk/configurator/product.php?code=G102SRC


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Hi all,

    I have read through the thread, A bit confused by it all.

    I am buying a new build house and the 1st fix is already done, so standard switches are being lined up for the second fix - That's not going to change unfortunately.

    As far as I know - each switch does not have a neutral at the moment.

    I have two plans in mind.

    1. Put Philips hue everywhere and use the dimmer switches combined with 3d printed wall plates ==> https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Twin-Light-Switch-Cover-Plate-White-for-Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Switch-3D-printed/142735621455?hash=item213bb4bd4f:g:VswAAOSwWY5ajxPh

    This is the simplest solution and if I ever sell the place, I can take the philips hue setup with me entirely.

    Option 2 is:

    - After handover of the house, get the electrician to retro fit neutral to all of the switches (He seems to think this should be possible - by cutting a few floorboards)
    - Install Sonoff switches - or other suggestions welcome. I was advised to research broadlink, but I'm not sure about them..

    I was thinking of trying out a prototype with the electrician by buying a 3 gang Sonoff : https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B8MGYYG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A26QA7NDH2SGKH&psc=1

    and a Sonoff WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Module

    https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Sonoff-Wireless-Modified-Low-cost-Compatible/dp/B06WWNBD3Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523795631&sr=8-4&keywords=sonoff+switch+module

    My question is, do I need a wireless switch module for every Sonoff Switch, or worse again for every gang within that switch (ie a 3 gang switch would require 3 sonoff wireless modules ? )

    It's a pity Sonoff can't do dimming.

    My ultimate goal is to be able to turn on/off all of the house lights via Google Home. I would like to avoid a situation where a hard power off of a switch is possible so Google is unable to control the light.

    The philips hue option allows this, but the Sonoffs look much nicer on the wall.

    Thanks in advance :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I have read through the thread, A bit confused by it all.

    I am buying a new build house and the 1st fix is already done, so standard switches are being lined up for the second fix - That's not going to change unfortunately.

    As far as I know - each switch does not have a neutral at the moment.

    I have two plans in mind.

    1. Put Philips hue everywhere and use the dimmer switches combined with 3d printed wall plates ==> https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Twin-Light-Switch-Cover-Plate-White-for-Philips-Hue-Dimmer-Switch-3D-printed/142735621455?hash=item213bb4bd4f:g:VswAAOSwWY5ajxPh

    This is the simplest solution and if I ever sell the place, I can take the philips hue setup with me entirely.

    Option 2 is:

    - After handover of the house, get the electrician to retro fit neutral to all of the switches (He seems to think this should be possible - by cutting a few floorboards)
    - Install Sonoff switches - or other suggestions welcome. I was advised to research broadlink, but I'm not sure about them..

    I was thinking of trying out a prototype with the electrician by buying a 3 gang Sonoff : https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B8MGYYG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A26QA7NDH2SGKH&psc=1

    and a Sonoff WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Module

    https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Sonoff-Wireless-Modified-Low-cost-Compatible/dp/B06WWNBD3Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523795631&sr=8-4&keywords=sonoff+switch+module

    My question is, do I need a wireless switch module for every Sonoff Switch, or worse again for every gang within that switch (ie a 3 gang switch would require 3 sonoff wireless modules ? )

    It's a pity Sonoff can't do dimming.

    My ultimate goal is to be able to turn on/off all of the house lights via Google Home. I would like to avoid a situation where a hard power off of a switch is possible so Google is unable to control the light.

    The philips hue option allows this, but the Sonoffs look much nicer on the wall.

    Thanks in advance :)

    Technically and practically I think a solution that does not use hue as your room switched lights is a better option, because:-

    A) Messing with wall switches, even the 3d printed solution you gave (which is a good solution for hue I think) is not ideal. My aim would be to have the house operating and looking as near to normal as possible.
    B) cost. Price out the cost of all the 3d printed wall plates, all the hue bulbs you need and see how it looks.

    With hue, you do get the nice light tones etc, bit you could look at doing something like that using hue lights in lamps for lighting effect.


    If you are talking about getting an electrician to wire neutrals to the wall switch, then you have more options, not just sonoff, but you could look at fibaro in line modules which fit behind the lightswitch as well. Doing it this way, you have the option of using whatever type of lightswitch style you want, and you are less restricted as well, always able to go for different manufacturer in line modules etc.

    That depends a bit on how much room you have behind your light switch and how many circuits for each switch etc as well.

    If you are getting your electrician to wire a neutral to each wall switch, then it might be worth considering getting him to run a cat 5 to the wall switch as well, bit that's a whole.other discussion for another thread I think.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Technically and practically I think a solution that does not use hue as your room switched lights is a better option, because:-

    A) Messing with wall switches, even the 3d printed solution you gave (which is a good solution for hue I think) is not ideal. My aim would be to have the house operating and looking as near to normal as possible.
    B) cost. Price out the cost of all the 3d printed wall plates, all the hue bulbs you need and see how it looks.

    With hue, you do get the nice light tones etc, bit you could look at doing something like that using hue lights in lamps for lighting effect.


    If you are talking about getting an electrician to wire neutrals to the wall switch, then you have more options, not just sonoff, but you could look at fibaro in line modules which fit behind the lightswitch as well. Doing it this way, you have the option of using whatever type of lightswitch style you want, and you are less restricted as well, always able to go for different manufacturer in line modules etc.

    That depends a bit on how much room you have behind your light switch and how many circuits for each switch etc as well.

    If you are getting your electrician to wire a neutral to each wall switch, then it might be worth considering getting him to run a cat 5 to the wall switch as well, bit that's a whole.other discussion for another thread I think.
    I'm just wondering would you not be worried that sonoff dissappear and there cloud service goes away with it, rendering the switches useless unless you set up your own home cloud? (I can only imagine the conversation I'd have with herself trying to explain that..)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    I'm just wondering would you not be worried that sonoff dissappear and there cloud service goes away with it, rendering the switches useless unless you set up your own home cloud? (I can only imagine the conversation I'd have with herself trying to explain that..)


    Hi,

    I don't have any sonoff gear, but yes, I think one if the most important things is that your system should continue to work if you lose your broadband or wifi, and thats a drawback with sonoff wall switches. Partly why I was suggesting looking at some of the inline modules that fit behind the wall switch, these can work as normal if you lose all connectivity.

    I don't have a wireless system, mine is a hardwired system that will work as normal if you unlug or disconnect all the smarts.

    It is also done in a way that even the manufacturer goes bust, the system can be easily replaced as the wiring schematic is common across a number of smart home manufacturer's use (although that would be something I hope never to have to do).

    End of the day, in an ideal scenario, the system should

    A) be discreet, ie, not noticably different to look at and use to a bog standard dumb house.
    B) Be capable of running as normal in the event of loss of connectivity and not dependent on a single point of failure which renders the system unusable. There should be no scenario where no matter what happens I simply can't turn a light on or off at the wall switch.
    C) should be replaceable, ie, if I need to go for another vendor or technology, it should not require a house rewire.


    Again, my system is a hardwired one, and systems like that need to be planned prior to first fix stage, but I have think in line modules like fibaro etc will or could deliver near enough functionality.

    PS:- I have hue as well, but just for lamps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Take a look at these as an example, I think the module shown gives you two circuits

    https://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-plus-aeotec-dual-nano-switch-with-power-metering

    Works 100% using existing wall switch, and will work manually as a normal light switch even with smarts gone


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    OK - Thanks for that. I need to do a bit more research on the hardwire solutions available .
    I spoke to my electrician and he can install neutral to each of the light sockets for a reasonable figure, by lifting some floorboards and fishing the cable down.
    I should definitely get the neutral wired now for future proofing?
    I need to make a call on this today apparently :ermm:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    OK - Thanks for that. I need to do a bit more research on the hardwire solutions available .
    I spoke to my electrician and he can install neutral to each of the light sockets for a reasonable figure, by lifting some floorboards and fishing the cable down.
    I should definitely get the neutral wired now for future proofing?
    I need to make a call on this today apparently :ermm:

    Well, definately put the neutral in, then I would buy a sonoff and an inline module like i sent you, and play with them even show them to your electrician. Once you have a neutral, the only.challenge (if any) with the inline modules is how many you can fit into a switch backbox, but its possible they could be fitted elsewhere near the switch either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Thanks for the quick reply - I will speak to the foreman to see if he'll allow me to get the neutral in - The electrician is on for it and so am I. It's just whether the foreman allows us to lift a few floorboards to wire down the neutral.
    Thanks - i may have more questions soon :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    Thanks for the quick reply - I will speak to the foreman to see if he'll allow me to get the neutral in - The electrician is on for it and so am I. It's just whether the foreman allows us to lift a few floorboards to wire down the neutral.
    Thanks - i may have more questions soon :)


    No bother, just note, I havnt used any of those particular in line modules, but I used to have very similar ones before using older x10 automation system, the principle is the same, just a different protocol.

    Worth talking to vesternet as well re a controller, there are options here as well, but I would prob look to connect them to a smart things hub to give you google home or Alexa control


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Just had a browse on verternet.com - so many options out there for home automation!
    So with a neutral to the light switches - I can retrofit whatever smart light switch I choose.
    That's my short term goal today anyway - I just want the option of upgrading to proper smart switches down the line without tearing down the house :P
    I could be asking you questions all day I'd say :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 52 ✭✭rkdub


    eddiem74 wrote: »
    I have used the following from Varilight which allows you to build your own switch combinations.

    https://www.varilight.co.uk/ranges/powergrid-range.php

    https://www.varilight.co.uk/configurator/product.php?code=G102SRC

    Any recommendations on where to source online or locally (galway\dub) Schneider or varilight?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭donspeekinglesh


    I ordered the Varilight from socketstore.co.uk via parcel motel. Has taken a week and I should have it tomorrow.

    Shipping to Ireland is crazy, but NI is free.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Hi all, bit of an update on the house build. Neutral wire is into all of my wall switches now.
    I have a problem with three of the switches however for the downstairs and upstairs hall.
    The switch just at the bottom of the stairs is 2 gang 2 way (lights upstairs and the toilet right beside the stairs)
    Electrician says he can change this to:
    1 gang 1 way for the toilet
    1 gang 2 way for the upstairs light
    Then upstairs there are two switches in the hall, both 1 gang 2 way.
    Are there any smart switches out there that can do 1 gang two way?
    For all of the other switches I was going to install these:
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/LYASI-Tempered-Touch-Screen-Switches-Protection/dp/B0769GG1VK/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525960973&sr=8-18-spons&keywords=2+gang+2+way+smart+light+switch&psc=1 ;
    Which the electrician thinks should be compatible for all of the other switches in the house.
    Thanks in advance


  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 11,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭lordgoat


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    Hi all, bit of an update on the house build. Neutral wire is into all of my wall switches now.
    I have a problem with three of the switches however for the downstairs and upstairs hall.
    The switch just at the bottom of the stairs is 2 gang 2 way (lights upstairs and the toilet right beside the stairs)
    Electrician says he can change this to:
    1 gang 1 way for the toilet
    1 gang 2 way for the upstairs light
    Then upstairs there are two switches in the hall, both 1 gang 2 way.
    Are there any smart switches out there that can do 1 gang two way?
    For all of the other switches I was going to install these:
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/LYASI-Tempered-Touch-Screen-Switches-Protection/dp/B0769GG1VK/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525960973&sr=8-18-spons&keywords=2+gang+2+way+smart+light+switch&psc=1 
    Which the electrician thinks should be compatible for all of the other switches in the house.
    Thanks in advance

    Others will be able to advise you better but those switches only work with 2.4Ghz wifi so if you ever switched to a 5GHz only router these wouldn't work.

    Also do these only work when your wifi is on? They are a nice looking switch.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Hi,
    Yes these work without wifi - which is why I like them.
    I'll have Google wifi dotted around the house which has both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz.
    I'm not sure what I require exists at the moment :/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,557 ✭✭✭wexfordman2


    Nedved85 wrote: »
    Hi,
    Yes these work without wifi - which is why I like them.
    I'll have Google wifi dotted around the house which has both 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz.
    I'm not sure what I require exists at the moment :/

    Hi,

    I would check and see if they are 1 way or 2 way, i.e:-

    1 WAY
    A) You send a command to turn them on or off, and the command is just sent with no acknowledgemnt of success/completion of the action
    B) You turn the light on/off manually, they do not update the hub that they are now on/off

    2 WAY
    A) You send a command to turn them on/off, and the command is sent, actioned and the status of the light is updated to your system/hub
    B) You turn the light on/off manually and they update the light status to your system/hub.


    With a mixture of different techs, such as your other devices, and these wifi, can you integrate them easily into a single hub.

    And more of a long term thing, that might not be relevent, wifi evolves, so if/when your devices become legacy wifi, you will need to ensure a backwards compatible router is kept. Again, this is less of an issue I think, but worth keeping in mind.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Current plan is that the Lyasi Light swicthes I linked will be installed in the majority of the rooms in the house. These are 1 or 2 gang 1 way.
    Its a pity I can't use them at the downstairs/upstairs hall. These definitely require a minimum of 1 gang 2 way.
    I wonder would a broadlink TC2 light switch do the job?
    I would probably just get all broadlink switches if this was the case and setup the rm pro hub.
    The main thing I want is that whatever switch I put in - it works manually at the switch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭snowstreams


    If you have a neutral in your switches, which seems to be the case in my new enough house, which switches are the best options then?

    I am planning on putting in the 15-18 euro tradfri lights that have ambience built into them, but Id like to have wall switches too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,770 ✭✭✭Nedved85


    Hi,

    Just an update on my own place, I put in Broadlink TC2 Smart Switches with a Broadlink RM Pro hub, and Broadlink alarm system (to control the motion/door sensors).

    It is fantastic and reasonably cheap to get up and running - neutrals not required also.

    I have Broadlink door sensors/motion sensors scattered throughout the house and they pretty much automate everything.

    E.g: Arrive to the front of the house on a dark, wet, miserable evening, trying to put the key in the door quickly - Motion sensor outside turns on the front light automatically.

    It takes a bit of setting up to get going, so you'd want a small bit of patience and tech know how, but it's highly worth it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 752 ✭✭✭TheBigGreen


    GE's new smart switches

    C Smart by GE

    Really liking these GE smart switches.


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  • Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 11,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭lordgoat


    GE's new smart switches

    C Smart by GE

    Really liking these GE smart switches.

    Finally some switches, looking forward to seeing the Schneider ones


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,891 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    lordgoat wrote: »
    Finally some switches, looking forward to seeing the Schneider ones

    I’d say you could be waiting for UK standard ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,592 ✭✭✭✭Dont be at yourself


    My order of sonof touch smart switches arrived today. Will install them over the house this weekend and let you know how it goes!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,040 ✭✭✭paulbok


    ted1 wrote: »
    I’d say you could be waiting for UK standard ones.

    Yeah, there are loads of hard wired smart switches available in the US for some time, but none offer a UK standard version.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,592 ✭✭✭✭Dont be at yourself


    My order of sonof touch smart switches arrived today. Will install them over the house this weekend and let you know how it goes!

    Installed a few today but hit a snag with my Eir modem, which apparently struggles with multiple devices using 2.4g wifi. Will pick up a Google WiFi tomorrow and install the rest.

    Have a two way switch controlling the landing light currently, so will have to think about the best solution for that.


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