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Polished concrete flooring in domestic dwelling?
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07-01-2018 10:55am#1We will have under floor heating on the ground floor of our new house and was thinking of polished concrete instead of tiles throughout the ground floor. Anyone done this and either love or regret it?0
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Seem it a lot on those programmes like grand designs. That's all..0
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It's extremely common now. Have you the screed poured yet? If you don't I suggest looking at a product called Cemfloor. It's got very good conductivity and can be polished as it's cement based.
Budget €80/m2 for the grinding and polishing. It's very good for kitchens as it's very good at hiding dirt from traffic0 -
Best not pour concrete floor until you’ve Engaged polishing contractor0
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Not poured yet. It's because I'm considering this we are delaying. Will check out that floor as I want it to work well with daily wear and tear without having to clean constantly (and that it's warm too of course)0
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Concrete floors are not ergonomic.0
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No, ergonomic. They're really hard on your body. As are tiles.newtoboards wrote: »Are they inefficient or just the aesthetics that are the issue?
I know this because my mother moaned endlessly about the tiled floor in my last house killing her back, even with shoes on. Then I researched a bit and found that it's a known issue.
They do look great though, if you're aiming for that sort of aesthetic.0 -
No, ergonomic. They're really hard on your body. As are tiles.
I know this because my mother moaned endlessly about the tiled floor in my last house killing her back, even with shoes on. Then I researched a bit and found that it's a known issue.
They do look great though, if you're aiming for that sort of aesthetic.
Oh. Because of the underfloor heating the floor will either be tiled or concrete. The reason for doing concrete is that it saves me the insanity of picking tiles for the living areas and having to worry about whether or not I can live with them and keeping the grout clean and so on.... must check up more about what you've said though. I will be standing in the utility and kitchen loads but the rest with be relaxing space0 -
Sorry, you did mention that in your OP.newtoboards wrote: »Oh. Because of the underfloor heating the floor will either be tiled or concrete
Yes, I would definitely pick concrete over tiles.0 -
I have polished concrete in my kitchen/dining room with underfloor heating. I find it doesn't show dirt at all and I have a dog and an external door in that room. Really easy to clean too....go for it.0
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Pygmy Shrew wrote: »I have polished concrete in my kitchen/dining room with underfloor heating. I find it doesn't show dirt at all and I have a dog and an external door in that room. Really easy to clean too....go for it.
Could you post a pic? Did you put in skirting ? Love that it doesn't show dirt? Any maintenance issues?0 -
Friends of mine have polished concrete in their new extension kitchen/dining room with underfloor heating. I think it looks great. They didn't have it polished initially but it definitely looks better done. It is easy to clean but does show dirtmarks like any type of flooring once it's polished. I would say go for it!0
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I wrote the below for someone at work but is relevant for you too. If you've any questions on any parts let me know.
Concrete
The concrete is 35N10 which is reinforced with plastic fibres at 900g per cubic meter of concrete. As a polished floor goes in later it might need to also be a pump mix as you’ll have doors, windows and roof on. Whoever you get to do your floor will help input on this.
Placing of concrete
It’s not just the grinding and polishing of the concrete that’s important. The placing and power floating of the concrete is critical. Unlike a regular concrete floor, a floor poured which will be polished has to be super flat and power floated for hours after. Very few people in Ireland can do this correctly. Formwork for steps and other edges has to be perfect and have 45 degree edges to allow trowels into the corners. Little things like dragging a vibrator, shovel or rake through a floor when placing the concrete the wrong way will result in the drag mark being visible when the floor is polished. These things may not be visible to the untrained eye but are flaws in a lot of cheap or poorly installed polished floors that can never be fixed. Spend time and money on this part as a poorly poured floor can’t be fixed by grinding and could make the errors even more visible. TKM Concrete Services in Laois come highly recommended by a lot of people.
Crack Joint
These have to be around every 6 meters max and are a saw cut made the day after in the concrete about 30-50mm deep which is later filled with a flexible mastic. Don’t have any areas too small as they could rock like paving slabs. Don’t have them long and thin either as they can crack in the middle like a seesaw. If you have a few pipes in the floor, eg heating pipes coming from a manifold it’s a good idea to have a joint here. It’s also good to line these up with any columns you have. Hide them under lightweight internal stud walls and have them at all doors, etc. You have to think about underfloor heating pipes and ensure they’ve sufficient coverage before cutting the crack joints. That’s where the thickness of the floor is important.
Expansion joint
Not to be confused with a crack joint these are flexible day pour joints and are also positioned above expansion joints in the structural floor below. As a result they’re slightly wider than a crack joint but again are filled with flexible mastic. For a house you probably won’t have one however we had one on a larger project I worked on a major project.
Coloured Stone
This is optional. I’ve done it in some projects but not my own floor. Make sure you get the contractors to quote for 4-5 samples if you plan on using coloured stone as you don’t want to get a claim later. You can pick whatever stone you want and also the size of stone. Usually they’re sprinkled over the top during powerfloating. They can be mixed through at the concrete plant but you’ll use a lot more coloured stone and it will be a lot more expensive. Glass which can also be used has to be lead glass as ordinary glass can shatter when grinded.
Slip Resistance
The slip resistance of polished concrete usually complies with all regulations. Like any regular floor it can be more slippery when wet. Additional grinding and polishing doesn’t necessarily impact the slip resistance of the floor so thinking a shiny polished floor will be a lot more slippery isn’t right. As it’s a domestic situation I wouldn’t worry about this however if it’s a public building you’ll need to include in your specification a slip resistance pendlium test to be carried out at the end of the project to prove the floor is safe. This is a useful document to have in the safety file should someone slip in the future. If you want to get it carried out for peace of mind you can.
Sealing
Make sure you ask in your quotes for sealing the floor after it’s grinded and polished as the concrete is porous and will absorb tea/coffee spills and heavy traffic if not sealed. The sealing will make the floor a tiny bit darker but in my opinion is worth it.
Protection
Include in the spec for the contractor to protect the floor after its poured for the duration of the works. We had two layers of cardboard over the floor for three months. It dired out more in areas where it wasn’t protected and at joints but once exposed the variation disappeared. Just ensure it’s well protected everywhere particularly if its not yet sealed as any paint spills etc, will destroy it.
Grinding and polishing
You can very lightly grind the floor and then polish it as normal if you don’t want to expose aggerate or alternatively grind it to expose the aggerate and then polish it. Grinding a floor is time consuming and therefore expensive so include for grinding the floor to expose a lot of aggerate and for a lot of polishing. You can then later decide with samples not to grind as much or go for a reduced polish. If you don’t specify the amount of grinding required they’ll assume a very light grinding with no aggerate revealed. The floor will be grinded in stages starting at 10 grit working through 15 grit, 25 grit, 50 grit, 100 grit, 200 grit, etc. 800 grit is matt finish and 1500 grit would be a medium shine with 3000 grit a high shine. If you want lots of stone aggerate exposed they’ll spend longer at the 10 and 15 grit before moving up.
Reinforcement
We used a plastic fibres reinforcement. You can get thin ones and heavier ones but the heavier ones can appear if you look closely in the finish. It’s 900g per meter cubed that use used which is standard. Don’t use steel fibres and don’t use steel mesh. I researched a lot of failed concrete floors and one major issue with steel mesh is when they cut the crack joints they don’t cut through the steel mesh so the floor can’t crack at the crack joints. The joints are still reinforced and therefore crack elsewhere.
Perimeter
You’ll need flexible insulation 12-15mm thick around all perimeters and at columns, service popups and penetrations, etc. Don’t use rigid insulation as this won’t allow the slab to move and therefore risk cracking. Another issue is with stone walls which are very uneven require thicker flexible insulation. If you intend to dryline do this after the floor is poured and you’ll hide the perimeter insulation easily.
Thickness
Our floor is 100mm thick and that’s the optimum. Don’t go below 75mm as below this is too thin and you’ll risk cracking. If the floor changes thickness anywhere you’ll need additional crack joints. For example if you’ve steps, ramps or around all recessed matwells as you have a change in thickness in the concrete.
Services
All electrical trunking and mechanical services should be cut out of the insulation below the concrete floor. If a 50x150mm electrical trunking was placed on top of the insulation the concrete would crack over the trunking. Where we had several pipes close to each other in the floor we had to include a steel plate to rest over to ensure the concrete remained 100mm think and didn’t flow down between the pipes increasing the depth but also preventing the slab from moving.
Underfloor heating
This works great with polished concrete floors due to the thermal mass of the floor and the slow release of heat. It’s important to have the floor well insulated so put in as much insulation as you can afford otherwise you’ll be paying to heat the ground under the building. Another key point is to ensure the underfloor heating pipes are firmly clipped down to the insulation as any pipes which become loose or if the plastic staples become loose they can be exposed or damaged in the polishing of the floor. Also you’ll be cutting into the slab for the crack joint and if the pipes rise a bit you risk cutting them.
NOTE: I'm aware Boards doesn't like posting of companies but from extensive research and several projects over the last few years these are the only companies in Ireland who cover all of Ireland and as this is an full list without reviews, etc I though it acceptable to list them. Some smaller companies might cover more local areas. eg I know of one in Belfast that does Dublin but haven't included him as he won't cover the rest of Ireland. It can be removed if required and leave the rest of the text.
The following people provide polished concrete floors and you should consult with them at you’re earliest opportunity.
P.Mac Ltd - Harold's Cross, Dublin 12
Renobuild Ireland - Enniscorthy, Wexford
Stone Seal - Clonshaugh IDA, Dublin 17
Topcoat Systems Ltd - Sixmilebridge, Clare
Concrete Concepts - Rathkeale, Limerick
Cutsue - Banteer, Co. Cork2 -
I wrote the below for someone at work but is relevant for you too. If you've any questions on any parts let me know.
Concrete
The concrete is 35N10 which is reinforced with plastic fibres at 900g per cubic meter of concrete. As a polished floor goes in later it might need to also be a pump mix as you’ll have doors, windows and roof on. Whoever you get to do your floor will help input on this.
Placing of concrete
It’s not just the grinding and polishing of the concrete that’s important. The placing and power floating of the concrete is critical. Unlike a regular concrete floor, a floor poured which will be polished has to be super flat and power floated for hours after. Very few people in Ireland can do this correctly. Formwork for steps and other edges has to be perfect and have 45 degree edges to allow trowels into the corners. Little things like dragging a vibrator, shovel or rake through a floor when placing the concrete the wrong way will result in the drag mark being visible when the floor is polished. These things may not be visible to the untrained eye but are flaws in a lot of cheap or poorly installed polished floors that can never be fixed. Spend time and money on this part as a poorly poured floor can’t be fixed by grinding and could make the errors even more visible. TKM Concrete Services in Laois come highly recommended by a lot of people.
Crack Joint
These have to be around every 6 meters max and are a saw cut made the day after in the concrete about 30-50mm deep which is later filled with a flexible mastic. Don’t have any areas too small as they could rock like paving slabs. Don’t have them long and thin either as they can crack in the middle like a seesaw. If you have a few pipes in the floor, eg heating pipes coming from a manifold it’s a good idea to have a joint here. It’s also good to line these up with any columns you have. Hide them under lightweight internal stud walls and have them at all doors, etc. You have to think about underfloor heating pipes and ensure they’ve sufficient coverage before cutting the crack joints. That’s where the thickness of the floor is important.
Expansion joint
Not to be confused with a crack joint these are flexible day pour joints and are also positioned above expansion joints in the structural floor below. As a result they’re slightly wider than a crack joint but again are filled with flexible mastic. For a house you probably won’t have one however we had one on a larger project I worked on a major project.
Coloured Stone
This is optional. I’ve done it in some projects but not my own floor. Make sure you get the contractors to quote for 4-5 samples if you plan on using coloured stone as you don’t want to get a claim later. You can pick whatever stone you want and also the size of stone. Usually they’re sprinkled over the top during powerfloating. They can be mixed through at the concrete plant but you’ll use a lot more coloured stone and it will be a lot more expensive. Glass which can also be used has to be lead glass as ordinary glass can shatter when grinded.
Slip Resistance
The slip resistance of polished concrete usually complies with all regulations. Like any regular floor it can be more slippery when wet. Additional grinding and polishing doesn’t necessarily impact the slip resistance of the floor so thinking a shiny polished floor will be a lot more slippery isn’t right. As it’s a domestic situation I wouldn’t worry about this however if it’s a public building you’ll need to include in your specification a slip resistance pendlium test to be carried out at the end of the project to prove the floor is safe. This is a useful document to have in the safety file should someone slip in the future. If you want to get it carried out for peace of mind you can.
Sealing
Make sure you ask in your quotes for sealing the floor after it’s grinded and polished as the concrete is porous and will absorb tea/coffee spills and heavy traffic if not sealed. The sealing will make the floor a tiny bit darker but in my opinion is worth it.
Protection
Include in the spec for the contractor to protect the floor after its poured for the duration of the works. We had two layers of cardboard over the floor for three months. It dired out more in areas where it wasn’t protected and at joints but once exposed the variation disappeared. Just ensure it’s well protected everywhere particularly if its not yet sealed as any paint spills etc, will destroy it.
Grinding and polishing
You can very lightly grind the floor and then polish it as normal if you don’t want to expose aggerate or alternatively grind it to expose the aggerate and then polish it. Grinding a floor is time consuming and therefore expensive so include for grinding the floor to expose a lot of aggerate and for a lot of polishing. You can then later decide with samples not to grind as much or go for a reduced polish. If you don’t specify the amount of grinding required they’ll assume a very light grinding with no aggerate revealed. The floor will be grinded in stages starting at 10 grit working through 15 grit, 25 grit, 50 grit, 100 grit, 200 grit, etc. 800 grit is matt finish and 1500 grit would be a medium shine with 3000 grit a high shine. If you want lots of stone aggerate exposed they’ll spend longer at the 10 and 15 grit before moving up.
Reinforcement
We used a plastic fibres reinforcement. You can get thin ones and heavier ones but the heavier ones can appear if you look closely in the finish. It’s 900g per meter cubed that use used which is standard. Don’t use steel fibres and don’t use steel mesh. I researched a lot of failed concrete floors and one major issue with steel mesh is when they cut the crack joints they don’t cut through the steel mesh so the floor can’t crack at the crack joints. The joints are still reinforced and therefore crack elsewhere.
Perimeter
You’ll need flexible insulation 12-15mm thick around all perimeters and at columns, service popups and penetrations, etc. Don’t use rigid insulation as this won’t allow the slab to move and therefore risk cracking. Another issue is with stone walls which are very uneven require thicker flexible insulation. If you intend to dryline do this after the floor is poured and you’ll hide the perimeter insulation easily.
Thickness
Our floor is 100mm thick and that’s the optimum. Don’t go below 75mm as below this is too thin and you’ll risk cracking. If the floor changes thickness anywhere you’ll need additional crack joints. For example if you’ve steps, ramps or around all recessed matwells as you have a change in thickness in the concrete.
Services
All electrical trunking and mechanical services should be cut out of the insulation below the concrete floor. If a 50x150mm electrical trunking was placed on top of the insulation the concrete would crack over the trunking. Where we had several pipes close to each other in the floor we had to include a steel plate to rest over to ensure the concrete remained 100mm think and didn’t flow down between the pipes increasing the depth but also preventing the slab from moving.
Underfloor heating
This works great with polished concrete floors due to the thermal mass of the floor and the slow release of heat. It’s important to have the floor well insulated so put in as much insulation as you can afford otherwise you’ll be paying to heat the ground under the building. Another key point is to ensure the underfloor heating pipes are firmly clipped down to the insulation as any pipes which become loose or if the plastic staples become loose they can be exposed or damaged in the polishing of the floor. Also you’ll be cutting into the slab for the crack joint and if the pipes rise a bit you risk cutting them.
NOTE: I'm aware Boards doesn't like posting of companies but from extensive research and several projects over the last few years these are the only companies in Ireland who cover all of Ireland and as this is an full list without reviews, etc I though it acceptable to list them. Some smaller companies might cover more local areas. eg I know of one in Belfast that does Dublin but haven't included him as he won't cover the rest of Ireland. It can be removed if required and leave the rest of the text.
The following people provide polished concrete floors and you should consult with them at you’re earliest opportunity.
P.Mac Ltd - Harold's Cross, Dublin 12
Renobuild Ireland - Enniscorthy, Wexford
Stone Seal - Clonshaugh IDA, Dublin 17
Topcoat Systems Ltd - Sixmilebridge, Clare
Concrete Concepts - Rathkeale, Limerick
Cutsue - Banteer, Co. Cork
Great post, might i add, many of the issues including crack joints can be negated by pouring a product called Cemfloor in as your screed. 75mm is required over underfloor heating.
I've done alot of research on this through my own job and through the construction of my own self build.0 -
Great post, might i add, many of the issues including crack joints can be negated by pouring a product called Cemfloor in as your screed. 75mm is required over underfloor heating.
I've done a lot of research on this through my own job and through the construction of my own self build.
What you have is a polished screed not a polished concrete floor.
Concrete has stones or aggregate in it which when ground and polished allow you to see the fleck or polished stones (and also bits of glass / bolts / nails / sea shells / computer chips or other items to create interest). These create an organic pattern, hide dirt better and can introduce colour and more variation. Every single floor will be different. If you grind concrete to expose the stone then its critical it's placed right which I discussed earlier as the track of a rake could be seen in the pattern of the stones only after the floor is dried and ground.
A screed is a mix of sand and cement. It's like concrete above but without the stone. You can grind and polish it but you won't have an exposed stone or aggregate. Instead of a sand and cement screed you can use products like Cemfloor but it is a different finish and appearance to a polished concrete floor. Every Cemfloor will look similar unlike exposed stone in concrete.0 -
Dudda....you just cleared up a lot of confusion for me in your post.
Am doing an new build this year, and thinking of polished concrete (of course now I realise what I actually want/like is polished screed!).
I wont have any under floor heating...altho I know concrete is a conductor. Is it essential to have underfloor heating? Just thought it would be like walking in tiles in bare feet.0 -
No it’s not essential to have underfloor heating (UFH) but it’s more common in newer builds and USUALLY has more advantages than disadvantages. Like tiles I would suggest as much insulation as you can afford so even when the floor gets cold it doesn’t get super cold.dellas1979 wrote: »Dudda....you just cleared up a lot of confusion for me in your post.
Am doing an new build this year, and thinking of polished concrete (of course now I realise what I actually want/like is polished screed!).
I wont have any under floor heating...altho I know concrete is a conductor. Is it essential to have underfloor heating? Just thought it would be like walking in tiles in bare feet.
It’s for another thread but I’d suggest revisiting the UFH option for a new build. It should be the same price if not cheaper (cost of additional pipes v cost of radiators, most other bits are similar). The running cost is usually lower. You heat water to a lower temperature, about 35 degrees, than radiators 60-80 degrees. If you intend on having a heat pump I’d query your architect or engineer as these heat pumps work far better with UFH.0 -
Thanks for that.
Ill have no central heating/heating in my house. Am going for a passive house. Solar gain and I'll have a stove if I ever need direct heat.
Ill also have a ventilation system that can heat the air a little if needed.0 -
Dudda thanks for a very informative post. Ive been following this thread and had already made contact with two of the suppliers you listed, I hadnt realised there was more so thank you for the info.
Im doing a renovation on a house built circa mid 90s which currently has laminate as the floor. Ive been told that (as it was 90s built) it likely has concrete underneath and that this concrete *might* be polish-able. Which sounds great but had me slightly confused as regards heights of the floor, i.e if I took the laminate out I am guessing it makes the floor some 30 or 50mm deeper? Would I actually need to put another layer of concrete over this to even it out to the level that the doors hang at? Then Im thinking there is no space for insulation or even UFH?
Also I was told about this Cemfloor product. Is it correct to say it is a screed that mimics a proper concrete floor? And is it possible to put items like crushed glass or bronze coins in on top of it before it dries? Any tips much appreciated;)0 -
dellas1979 wrote: »Thanks for that.
Ill have no central heating/heating in my house. Am going for a passive house. Solar gain and I'll have a stove if I ever need direct heat.
Ill also have a ventilation system that can heat the air a little if needed.
Sounds great. I’ve read of a few projects who went this route. What I’d suggest and heard similar from people with the same set up as you is to put in the pipes for UFH as its a very small cost and it’s an incredibly expensive and disruptive process if it has to be done later. All you’re doing is putting down pipes in the floor. You don’t need them connected or any pumps or heating equipment. It’s a just encase measure.0 -
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Is there much of a saving to be made pouring a polished concrete floor compared to tiles? Tiles we are looking at are 35 per square metre but include labour with that would drive that price over 50.0
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Is there much of a saving to be made pouring a polished concrete floor compared to tiles? Tiles we are looking at are 35 per square metre but include labour with that would drive that price over 50.
No saving. You may pay €50-60 per sqm ex vat for polishing, grinding and sealing for a large uncomplicated area. Add in grinding around walls, steps, etc and it will rise. The price depends on how many internal walls you have as the edges have to be done by hand and how much stone you want to grind and expose. It's a very slow labor intensive process. You'll also pay more (or should) for the guy putting in the concrete as they'll have to powerfloat it more.0 -
What you have is a polished screed not a polished concrete floor.
Concrete has stones or aggregate in it which when ground and polished allow you to see the fleck or polished stones (and also bits of glass / bolts / nails / sea shells / computer chips or other items to create interest). These create an organic pattern, hide dirt better and can introduce colour and more variation. Every single floor will be different. If you grind concrete to expose the stone then its critical it's placed right which I discussed earlier as the track of a rake could be seen in the pattern of the stones only after the floor is dried and ground.
A screed is a mix of sand and cement. It's like concrete above but without the stone. You can grind and polish it but you won't have an exposed stone or aggregate. Instead of a sand and cement screed you can use products like Cemfloor but it is a different finish and appearance to a polished concrete floor. Every Cemfloor will look similar unlike exposed stone in concrete.
You are correct but you are also not. Cemfloor liquid screed is made with cement and has 6-10mm stone aggregate in it. Which when you grind, exposes the aggregate the same as a concrete floor.
The floors all look different too depending on the quarry the raw materials come from. The base material all comes from Mcgraths in Cong in Mayo and the rest is batched in a local quarry. Ive seen samples polished that are near white, and the others are a mixture of black or grey. They can add coloured chip etc and it doesnt affect the fact its still a liquid screed.
It cuts down on floating etc as its self leveling so its very easy on labour.0 -
You are correct but you are also not. Cemfloor liquid screed is made with cement and has 6-10mm stone aggregate in it. Which when you grind, exposes the aggregate the same as a concrete floor.
The floors all look different too depending on the quarry the raw materials come from. The base material all comes from Mcgraths in Cong in Mayo and the rest is batched in a local quarry. Ive seen samples polished that are near white, and the others are a mixture of black or grey. They can add coloured chip etc and it doesnt affect the fact its still a liquid screed.
It cuts down on floating etc as its self leveling so its very easy on labour.
One supplier has quoted us for €18/m2 for 50mm of Cemfloor screed and then €21/m2 for finish compound on top of screed with a sealer. Both prices are ex VAT.
The builder has quoted for 70mm of screed and I have read elsewhere that at least 70-75mm of screed should be used.
What is the main difference between the prices I have quoted above and more expensive finishes?0 -
One supplier has quoted us for €18/m2 for 50mm of Cemfloor screed and then €21/m2 for finish compound on top of screed with a sealer. Both prices are ex VAT.
The builder has quoted for 70mm of screed and I have read elsewhere that at least 70-75mm of screed should be used.
What is the main difference between the prices I have quoted above and more expensive finishes?
The thing with the cemfloor screed is if you are using it as a normal screed over UFH then 50mm will do if you are finishing it with tiles or similar. From speaking to them they say they will only stand over the screed as a finished floor over the UFH if it is 70mm.
PS. It sounds like I am a rep or something for this, I am not. However im at that stage with my own house and ive went to loads of information evenings on different solutions and done my own research and this is really coming out on top. So i wanted to save everyone else the hassle.0 -
doesn't that pumped in screed take forever to dry.
I heard that its 1 day for every mm and 2 days per mm over 50 mm.
is that still the case0 -
the_pen_turner wrote: »doesn't that pumped in screed take forever to dry.
I heard that its 1 day for every mm and 2 days per mm over 50 mm.
is that still the case
Thats for Calcium Silicate screeds. Cemfloor is ready in 7 days.0 -
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You can get coloured self smoothing toppings which can be applied at 10 - 20mm on top of ordinary concrete. These can be polished, or left as they are. Very durable and very attractive.Dudda thanks for a very informative post. Ive been following this thread and had already made contact with two of the suppliers you listed, I hadnt realised there was more so thank you for the info.
Im doing a renovation on a house built circa mid 90s which currently has laminate as the floor. Ive been told that (as it was 90s built) it likely has concrete underneath and that this concrete *might* be polish-able. Which sounds great but had me slightly confused as regards heights of the floor, i.e if I took the laminate out I am guessing it makes the floor some 30 or 50mm deeper? Would I actually need to put another layer of concrete over this to even it out to the level that the doors hang at? Then Im thinking there is no space for insulation or even UFH?
Also I was told about this Cemfloor product. Is it correct to say it is a screed that mimics a proper concrete floor? And is it possible to put items like crushed glass or bronze coins in on top of it before it dries? Any tips much appreciated;)0 -
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