Spray painting car

Conorh123

I've an old car and it's sand blasted down to the metal , any ideas on what primer and type of paint to use , I was thinking of going using tractor paint.

wexie

Conorh123 wrote: »

I've an old car and it's sand blasted down to the metal , any ideas on what primer and type of paint to use , I was thinking of going using tractor paint.

I guess it will very much depend on the kind of finish you're looking to achieve and how you're intending to apply the paint.

As in not all paints are suitable to be brushed/rollered and equally not all paints are suitable to be sprayed.

If it's down to bare metal all over then you'll need an etch primer of some sort.

What kind of car is it and how good a finish do you want? I've seen some pretty decent jobs (Land Rovers usually) with a brush and roller. And back in the day (not sure this still happens) a lot of things would have been done by brush with coach enamel (I think tractor paint isn't far off this depending on which one).

Having said that, if you're looking for some fancy pearly or metallic colours I don't think tractor paint will be an option

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

I guess it will very much depend on the kind of finish you're looking to achieve and how you're intending to apply the paint.

As in not all paints are suitable to be brushed/rollered and equally not all paints are suitable to be sprayed.

If it's down to bare metal all over then you'll need an etch primer of some sort.

What kind of car is it and how good a finish do you want? I've seen some pretty decent jobs (Land Rovers usually) with a brush and roller. And back in the day (not sure this still happens) a lot of things would have been done by brush with coach enamel (I think tractor paint isn't far off this depending on which one).

Having said that, if you're looking for some fancy pearly or metallic colours I don't think tractor paint will be an option

It's a b3 passat , i will be spraying it on anyway , is the paint nowadays water based I don't know how u go about mixing that that is the reason I was going to use tractor paint

wexie

Conorh123 wrote: »

It's a b3 passat , i will be spraying it on anyway , is the paint nowadays water based I don't know how u go about mixing that that is the reason I was going to use tractor paint

You can buy lots of different paints really, I sprayed one with 2K bought from here . Was way way cheaper than any motor factor prices I could find and I think only 12 euro shipping. No problems shipping thinners etc either.

First thing I ever sprayed with an underpowered compressor and a cheap spraygun. Very happy with the results. The paint I used doesn't require a clearcoat or anything. The picture attached is before any polishing was done.

Make sure you have a decent mask (with the proper filter) if you're spraying, this stuff aint no joke.

wexie

With regards mixing it I think it depends on the paint. The one I used came with very clear instructions and I just used mixing cups and filters. It was paint (60%) + thinner (30%) + hardener (10%) off the top of my head.

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

You can buy lots of different paints really, I sprayed one with 2K bought from here . Was way way cheaper than any motor factor prices I could find and I think only 12 euro shipping. No problems shipping thinners etc either.

First thing I ever sprayed with an underpowered compressor and a cheap spraygun. Very happy with the results. The paint I used doesn't require a clearcoat or anything. The picture attached is before any polishing was done.

Make sure you have a decent mask (with the proper filter) if you're spraying, this stuff aint no joke.

Fair play looks well- can waterbased paint be sprayed on in a shed or does it have to be baked on ?

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

With regards mixing it I think it depends on the paint. The one I used came with very clear instructions and I just used mixing cups and filters. It was paint (60%) + thinner (30%) + hardener (10%) off the top of my head.

Any idea how much I'd need to spray the car?

wexie

Conorh123 wrote: »

Fair play looks well- can waterbased paint be sprayed on in a shed or does it have to be baked on ?

I don't know to be honest but I don't think so.

If you're going to be spraying in the shed you'll want to wait for drier (and warmer) weather, the longer it takes for the paint to dry the more chance for stuff to get in it and the current humidity would mean it'd take a long time to dry.

Clean it out as much as you can and try to keep the floor wet no matter how many times you sweep the floor you'll get dust everywhere, keeping it wet will keep the dust down.

wexie

Conorh123 wrote: »

Any idea how much I'd need to spray the car?

Geez I don't know, I bought a 7 liter kit (think it was 4 liters paint, 2 liters thinner and 1 liter hardener) which should be enough for a whole car but ended up buying another kit as there were a good few bits I ended up doing again (and again).

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

I don't know to be honest but I don't think so.

If you're going to be spraying in the shed you'll want to wait for drier (and warmer) weather, the longer it takes for the paint to dry the more chance for stuff to get in it and the current humidity would mean it'd take a long time to dry.

Clean it out as much as you can and try to keep the floor wet no matter how many times you sweep the floor you'll get dust everywhere, keeping it wet will keep the dust down.

Did you sand between coats and is there a need for a clear coat / laquer

wexie

Conorh123 wrote: »

Did you sand between coats and is there a need for a clear coat / laquer

I did sand between coats (very very lightly with 1000 or 1200 grit can't remember). Then clean it with panel wipe.

Whether or not you need a clear coat depends on the type of paint you use I think. The reason I picked the paint I did cause it said it wouldn't need a clear coat.

Just to make it clear I'm by no means an expert, just telling you what I've done.
May well be complete bollox but it seems to have worked for me (mostly)

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

I did sand between coats (very very lightly with 1000 or 1200 grit can't remember). Then clean it with panel wipe.

Whether or not you need a clear coat depends on the type of paint you use I think. The reason I picked the paint I did cause it said it wouldn't need a clear coat.

Just to make it clear I'm by no means an expert, just telling you what I've done.
May well be complete bollox but it seems to have worked for me (mostly)

Thanks for that anyway every little helps

wexie

Couple of other things, I found dealz to be very handy for a lot of little things you'll need such as the plastic dust sheets and tapes etc.
By the time all was said and done I'd say I've spent at least as much on those things and things like sand paper and panel wipe etc. as I did on paint.

Then again I'll quite happily admit it could probably all have been done a bit more efficiently as well

Conorh123

wexie wrote: »

Couple of other things, I found dealz to be very handy for a lot of little things you'll need such as the plastic dust sheets and tapes etc.
By the time all was said and done I'd say I've spent at least as much on those things and things like sand paper and panel wipe etc. as I did on paint.

Then again I'll quite happily admit it could probably all have been done a bit more efficiently as well

Preparation is half of the battle anyway

SpitfireIV

Preparation, preparation, preparation.....thats what you've got to focus on!!

I did a home spray job on my Spitfire in a 6x3m poly-tunnel using direct gloss cellulose (no laquer needed). I epoxy primer first, forget your etch primers and all that lark, they're old skool! and then did my body work (filling etc) on top of them and then sealed it again with epoxy primer. This can be sprayed on, I used a 1.4HVLP gun and a small aldi 24L compressor.

Satisfied with the filler and stopper work (that will take a LOT of effort to get right!!) I then sprayed on three good heavy coats of high build primer with a 1.8 HVLP gun and back to sanding again. Sanding is an art! You have to work through the correct grades and sanding blocks, I sanded the primer as far as 800 grit to receive the top (color) coat. But even at the primer sanding stage imperfections will still show up so you'll probably need to fill, sand, guide coat, fill, sand, guide coat and spot prime until you're happy with the finish.

I laid down 5/6 coats of celly using a 1.4 LVLP gun, wet on wet, the finish was a little orange peely but I was able to cut that back starting with 1200-1500-2000-2500 and then onto the compounds and polish.

I cant stress the preparation enough and having everything spotlessly clean! Buy a box of powder free latex gloves and roles of blue paper as well as panel wipe and dont be afraid to use it! Wipe on....wipe off....

Buy a roll of brown covering paper, most autofactors will sell it and decent masking tape (3M, youll be thankful!). Take your time, do it right, do it once!!

Conorh123

SpitfireIV wrote: »

Preparation, preparation, preparation.....thats what you've got to focus on!!

I did a home spray job on my Spitfire in a 6x3m poly-tunnel using direct gloss cellulose (no laquer needed). I epoxy primer first, forget your etch primers and all that lark, they're old skool! and then did my body work (filling etc) on top of them and then sealed it again with epoxy primer. This can be sprayed on, I used a 1.4HVLP gun and a small aldi 24L compressor.

Satisfied with the filler and stopper work (that will take a LOT of effort to get right!!) I then sprayed on three good heavy coats of high build primer with a 1.8 HVLP gun and back to sanding again. Sanding is an art! You have to work through the correct grades and sanding blocks, I sanded the primer as far as 800 grit to receive the top (color) coat. But even at the primer sanding stage imperfections will still show up so you'll probably need to fill, sand, guide coat, fill, sand, guide coat and spot prime until you're happy with the finish.

I laid down 5/6 coats of celly using a 1.4 LVLP gun, wet on wet, the finish was a little orange peely but I was able to cut that back starting with 1200-1500-2000-2500 and then onto the compounds and polish.

I cant stress the preparation enough and having everything spotlessly clean! Buy a box of powder free latex gloves and roles of blue paper as well as panel wipe and dont be afraid to use it! Wipe on....wipe off....

Buy a roll of brown covering paper, most autofactors will sell it and decent masking tape (3M, youll be thankful!). Take your time, do it right, do it once!!

Thank you - u didn't sand between main coats?

Carney97

I attempted to repaint the door sills on my fiesta. After allowing the base coat to dry over night i found some areas were a lighter shade than others. I did this outside in the cold. Should I wait until summer when we get some decent weather?

SpitfireIV

Conorh123 wrote: »

Thank you - u didn't sand between main coats?

No, I didnt sand between coats, I didnt need to with direct gloss cellulose, takes far too much time, you're best laying down 5-6 good coats and then flatten after it has dried. With two part paints you wont need to sand either, get the base coat on and then lay on your protective (lacquer) clear coat and then flat that back.

Carney97 wrote: »

I attempted to repaint the door sills on my fiesta. After allowing the base coat to dry over night i found some areas were a lighter shade than others. I did this outside in the cold. Should I wait until summer when we get some decent weather?

The paint probably bloomed, you cant spray in cold weather, its a no no, the paint will cloud and go milky, you'll have to do it again either in a heated garage or wait until some good weather comes along.

Carney97

SpitfireIV wrote: »

No, I didnt sand between coats, I didnt need to with direct gloss cellulose, takes far too much time, you're best laying down 5-6 good coats and then flatten after it has dried. With two part paints you wont need to sand either, get the base coat on and then lay on your protective (lacquer) clear coat and then flat that back.



The paint probably bloomed, you cant spray in cold weather, its a no no, the paint will cloud and go milky, you'll have to do it again either in a heated garage or wait until some good weather comes along.

Thank you for the advice. Should have expected that to happen. Ill wait until summer and will have another go at it.