Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

emmetlego

So we got our rather nifty looking tethered Morec 32a station fitted today. Guess what? it doesn't work!!! Got electrician to check and double check everything. Still not working! We paid US$ 350 for it and the online reviews were really very good, so to say I'm annoyed that we didn't stick to the advice here, is rather frustrating!!! I should have listened to you all. Cheapskating has struck me down again!!!

I've mailed off the seller and their help lone, we'll see what they say back. At least it will be a really simple job to fit a new station, as all the wiring, isolator and trip switch are all fitted!

Very miffed!

Kramer

emmetlego wrote: »

So we got our rather nifty looking tethered Morec 32a station fitted today. Guess what? it doesn't work!!!

I've been using one for close to a year now, zero issues.
Is it completely dead or does it power up, does the screen work, etc.

I assume you've depressed the switch on the side etc.?

There ain't much in them to go wrong to be honest, but maybe you were just unlucky. Hope you get sorted quickly anyway.

emmetlego

Kramer wrote: »

I've been using one for close to a year now, zero issues.
Is it completely dead or does it power up, does the screen work, etc.

I assume you've depressed the switch on the side etc.?

There ain't much in them to go wrong to be honest, but maybe you were just unlucky. Hope you get sorted quickly anyway.

Actually, on a hunch, the sparky came back with a different isolator switch and hey presto! It's working! I feel so relieved... There was definitely a row brewing in the house tonight! :-)

All in all it cost us (parts only) just over 430, that includes 4 mtrs of cable, an RCBO, the isolator switch (ugly thing will be getting sprayed black as soon as the grant is paid), the silicone and the little cable sealer thingamajig!

Connected to the car now as we speak. Sparky was here for just over 2 hours in total, so I think our 600 grant may well cover most of the cost. Delighted!

Felexicon

emmetlego wrote: »

Actually, on a hunch, the sparky came back with a different isolator switch and hey presto! It's working! I feel so relieved... There was definitely a row brewing in the house tonight! :-)

All in all it cost us (parts only) just over 430, that includes 4 mtrs of cable, an RCBO, the isolator switch (ugly thing will be getting sprayed black as soon as the grant is paid), the silicone and the little cable sealer thingamajig!

Connected to the car now as we speak. Sparky was here for just over 2 hours in total, so I think our 600 grant may well cover most of the cost. Delighted!

On a hunch?

Surely he tested on outgoing side of isolator as one of his first steps in fault finding

Time for a different "sparky"

emmetlego

BrownFinger wrote: »

Time for a different "sparky"

Gosh, you're a tough crowd!

He's a friend doing a favour. As it turns out, I got my interpretation wrong and his diagnosis right!

Cona

Could anyone recommend an electrician someone around Cork? What is the lead time for Electric Ireland install?

kellticwarrior

Hi all,

Does any one on here have a "Pod Point" installed for home charging. Would you recommend? Thinking of getting one

slave1

kellticwarrior wrote: »

Hi all,

Does any one on here have a "Pod Point" installed for home charging. Would you recommend? Thinking of getting one

I got one the last 3.5 years, the untethered version, works 100%, never an issue of any kind charging multiple cars at various times.

kellticwarrior

slave1 wrote: »

I got one the last 3.5 years, the untethered version, works 100%, never an issue of any kind charging multiple cars at various times.

Thank you:) Would you remember if the energy clamp and RCD come with the device for auto power balancing or if this is something the installer supplies?

CathalDublin

McHonda wrote: »

For those of you with the wallbox pulsar, what are you doing with the cable? Does it sit on the unit or is it just hanging on the ground?

Hook from Lidl and a bit of spray paint

*I know I’ve no isolator

slave1

kellticwarrior wrote: »

Thank you:) Would you remember if the energy clamp and RCD come with the device for auto power balancing or if this is something the installer supplies?

I have the basic model, a simple plug is all, I have no need/desire for anything else, all I got extra was a priority switch. I supplied all materials.

st332

Looking at getting a zappi for an upcoming car purchase (ID.3).
I've in a new build in Dublin which has a 3 phase supply (due to heat pump which has a max load of 17kW).
The builders helpfully ran a cable to the front garden on a 3x32A MCB for a car charger.

Will this support a 22kW charger (nice to future proof, but the car in question will only draw 11kW)?

I've also got solar PV, which I think tries to (1) power the house generally, (2) put heat into hot water tank, (3) send it back to grid as a last resort (not sure where the gubbins is for this, so I'm not 100% how it's set up). The solar system looks to be fairly cheap chinese stuff - presumably just to help the BER.

Is it worth getting an eddi or doing anything with the solar system to make the best use of it with the zappi?
If there are CT clamps on the main incoming supply, is this sufficient to sense when the solar is trying to export power to the grid, and hence try to divert it to the car instead?
Is it preferable economically to divert solar to the car in preference of e.g. the hot water tank?

KCross

st332 wrote: »

Looking at getting a zappi for an upcoming car purchase (ID.3).
I've in a new build in Dublin which has a 3 phase supply (due to heat pump which has a max load of 17kW).
The builders helpfully ran a cable to the front garden on a 3x32A MCB for a car charger.

Will this support a 22kW charger (nice to future proof, but the car in question will only draw 11kW)?

I dont think it will support 22kW and leave you enough for your house and heat pump etc. It depends on your max import capacity and the fuse ratings on each phase but let your electrician advise.

11kW is all you will ever need anyway as you will be charging overnight so 22kW is significant overkill.
Lets say you have a 70kWh car... that will take ~6hrs to charge from 0%. In reality you wont be charging from 0% unless you are doing ridiculous daily mileage.

st332 wrote: »

I've also got solar PV, ...

Is it worth getting an eddi or doing anything with the solar system to make the best use of it with the zappi?

You will add a CT clamp(s) to the incoming mains so that the Zappi can sense when there is excess and divert that to the car accordingly. You'd need a decent Solar array to make it worthwhile. A 2kWp array wont do much for you in relation to excess for the car. You'd need 4-6kWp really. What have you got?

st332 wrote: »

Is it preferable economically to divert solar to the car in preference of e.g. the hot water tank?

Yes. Particularly since you have a heat pump that will be heating that water for very little money.

st332

KCross wrote: »

I dont think it will support 22kW and leave you enough for your house and heat pump etc. It depends on your max import capacity and the fuse ratings on each phase but let your electrician advise.

11kW is all you will ever need anyway as you will be charging overnight so 22kW is significant overkill.
Lets say you have a 70kWh car... that will take ~6hrs to charge from 0%. In reality you wont be charging from 0% unless you are doing ridiculous daily mileage.




You will add a CT clamp(s) to the incoming mains so that the Zappi can sense when there is excess and divert that to the car accordingly. You'd need a decent Solar array to make it worthwhile. A 2kWp array wont do much for you in relation to excess for the car. You'd need 4-6kWp really. What have you got?



Yes. Particularly since you have a heat pump that will be heating that water for very little money.

Thanks for the info.

I asked the builder what the MIC was when we moved in and he said 16kVA. My heat pump is rated at 7.96kW (compressor) + 9kW (pump), which could technically exceed 16kVA, so I'm not sure if the 16kVA is overall or per-phase.

Agreed the 22kW isn't needed for most cars (including the one that I'm aiming to buy), but since the zappi can deliver it, it might be useful to have in future. The Renault Zoe and some Teslas can accept 22kW AC.

The solar inverter has a max output of 1500W, so I'm thinking it's probably not worth spending anything on additional hardware to prioritise the car over the hot water.

I would go with the 3 phase one.
For the sake of a few extra quid it will make the install "fool proof" as nobody knows how well the phases are balanced in your house.

KCross

st332 wrote: »

Thanks for the info.

I asked the builder what the MIC was when we moved in and he said 16kVA. My heat pump is rated at 7.96kW (compressor) + 9kW (pump), which could technically exceed 16kVA, so I'm not sure if the 16kVA is overall or per-phase.

The kW figures you are quoting for the heat pump are likely its output, not its input. I'd be amazed if you have a HP that takes 17kW input!

st332 wrote: »

Agreed the 22kW isn't needed for most cars (including the one that I'm aiming to buy), but since the zappi can deliver it, it might be useful to have in future. The Renault Zoe and some Teslas can accept 22kW AC.

Possibly. I wouldnt spend extra for it though.

st332 wrote: »

The solar inverter has a max output of 1500W, so I'm thinking it's probably not worth spending anything on additional hardware to prioritise the car over the hot water.

You wont get anything diverted to a car with 1.5kWp as you need a min of 1.4kW excess to even start the session.

I wouldnt bother with hot water diversion either. You will likely use a very high % of that as it stands. Paying 100s to add hot water diversion will likely never pay for itself.

If you want to look at diverting to car or hot water you need alot more panels put up.

st332

KCross wrote: »

The kW figures you are quoting for the heat pump are likely its output, not its input. I'd be amazed if you have a HP that takes 17kW input!




Possibly. I wouldnt spend extra for it though.




You wont get anything diverted to a car with 1.5kWp as you need a min of 1.4kW excess to even start the session.

I wouldnt bother with hot water diversion either. You will likely use a very high % of that as it stands. Paying 100s to add hot water diversion will likely never pay for itself.

If you want to look at diverting to car or hot water you need alot more panels put up.

See attached photo of nameplate. It's a 12kW heating / 10kW cooling pump, so seems daft alright that it might draw more than that from the wall. My knowledge of thermodynamics is a lot better than my knowledge of electrics and this definitely seems counter-intuitive.
I guess the max input figures on the plate refer to inrush loads for the AC motor drives, but the unit typically runs at something like 3 or 4 kW to give a decent COP (or else what's the point ).

Agreed that the solar system is a bit of a fig leaf and probably not worth interacting with.

KCross

st332 wrote: »

See attached photo of nameplate. It's a 12kW heating / 10kW cooling pump, so seems daft alright that it might draw more than that from the wall.

Its on the nameplate.... the input is 2.5-3.5kW but can boost up to 8kW (when its very cold it will fire up an inefficient immersion).

It looks like its a 12kW (output) heat pump.

Funkyford79

Looking at taking a company car option of EV and as a result won't get any grants so trying to keep costs down for residential chargepoint. Anybody know if a Type 2 Rolec 32amp (7.2kw) EVWP2020 untethered option would work initially for Hyundai Kona (but also to future proof) and if so what to expect a sparky to quote for installation? I see an unused one on Ebay for £150. Appreciate any advice or suggestions. Thanks.

KCross

Funkyford79 wrote: »

Anybody know if a Type 2 Rolec 32amp (7.2kw) EVWP2020 untethered option would work initially for Hyundai Kona (but also to future proof)

They are cheap and cheerful but will do the job fine. Rolec dont have a great name though.

Any particular reason why you want untethered? Tethered is more convenient but maybe you dont want the look of the cable? Personally the convenience outweighed the look for me but YMMV

Funkyford79 wrote: »

and if so what to expect a sparky to quote for installation?

Be sure to tell them you have no grant. You might get a better quote.
The cost will depend on the complexity of the job.... anything from €150 (mates rate) to €350+.... it could literally be any amount. Get some quotes.

Funkyford79

Thanks KCross.

Charge spot will be near front of house so partially aesthetics, partially security and also if I change to a Nissan Leaf or something else don't want to find Tethered option needs upgrading. Anyhow the ESB upgraded the metre recently so hoping this would make electrician's job a bit easier but I could be mistaken

KCross

Funkyford79 wrote: »

Thanks KCross.

Charge spot will be near front of house so partially aesthetics, partially security and also if I change to a Nissan Leaf or something else don't want to find Tethered option needs upgrading. Anyhow the ESB upgraded the metre recently so hoping this would make electrician's job a bit easier but I could be mistaken

All new EV's since 2018 (I think) have a Type 2 connector so unless you are planning on buying a first Gen EV in the future (basically just an old Leaf) you will have no need for anything other than a Type 2 cable.

Even new Leaf's have type 2.


Security isnt really an issue. No one is going to plug into your charge point and charge away for hours on end. If you are away on hols just flip the switch inside the house to cut the power to it.

Aestethics... yea, some dont like that so fair enough. Bear in mind that you will come home and plug the car in anyway so the cable will be across the footpath for many hours of the day regardless but thats your call.

I dont think meter upgrade will make any difference to the install. What will count is where you want the charge point mounted and where is your consumer unit inside the house... and how you get cables between those 2 points.

the_amazing_raisin

To add to KCross's points, it's only the Gen1 Leaf and Outlander PHEV that have Type 1 sockets now. Since you're getting a Kona I doubt you'd be downgrading to a Gen1 Leaf afterward, so unless they release a new plug in the next few years (unlikely) then it's Type 2 all the way.

If you still want untethered then that's grand, but I had the same thought process when I got the Leaf and now my cable is just plugged into my charge point all the time and I just plug the car end in when I get home

You could look at EO chargers, they're nice and small and the basic one is fairly cheap.

Regarding electricians, KCross is right that the cable will be coming from your meter box, so that dictates the complexity of the installation. If your meter box is at the front door then it should be simple enough, just try to get the electrician to match the cable colour to the outside of the house, or tuck the cable away discreetly so it isn't too obvious.

If your meter is in the middle of the house like mine, then it'll be a bit of a job getting the wire out. I had an air duct that the sparks was able to run the cable through so keep an eye out for something like that in your house if needed

Alun

cruisey1987 wrote: »

TRegarding electricians, KCross is right that the cable will be coming from your meter box, so that dictates the complexity of the installation. If your meter box is at the front door then it should be simple enough, just try to get the electrician to match the cable colour to the outside of the house, or tuck the cable away discreetly so it isn't too obvious.

If your meter is in the middle of the house like mine, then it'll be a bit of a job getting the wire out. I had an air duct that the sparks was able to run the cable through so keep an eye out for something like that in your house if needed

It's connected to the consumer unit (CU) a.k.a. the "fuse box" inside your house, not the outside ESB meter box.

the_amazing_raisin

Alun wrote: »

It's connected to the consumer unit (CU) a.k.a. the "fuse box" inside your house, not the outside ESB meter box.

Yes, fuse box, not meter box. My bad!

In my defense, I was up a lot last night

SummerK

Is it possible to instal home car charger point for around €750 incl SEAI grant? I remember electric Ireland was offering one for €750 but price has gone up to €1100 now (incl grant).

Gumbo

SummerK wrote: »

Is it possible to instal home car charger point for around €750 incl SEAI grant? I remember electric Ireland was offering one for €750 but price has gone up to €1100 now (incl grant).

Yes.
Buy yourself.
Get local registered sparks to fit.
If it’s a straight forward install your sorted.

Be savvy and the grant can be more than your outlay. Buy a second hand charger etc

Ionised

SummerK wrote:

Is it possible to instal home car charger point for around €750 incl SEAI grant? I remember electric Ireland was offering one for €750 but price has gone up to €1100 now (incl grant).

EO Mini plus load management module 899 from Electric Ireland.

NEDDURC

Are the Electric ireland chargers good - has anyone ordered this?