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Home charge points (purchase/problems/questions) (See mod note post#1)

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18485878990281

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 591 ✭✭✭Cona


    Cyrus wrote: »
    massive price difference surely?

    Yeah about 700...Trying to figure out if thats worth it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,084 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Cona wrote: »
    Yeah about 700...Trying to figure out if thats worth it?

    i got the eo mini myself but untethered as i can basically have it hidden behind a downpipe, that worked for me, when its not being used it cant be seen.

    its a bit more hassle but i only charge once a week anyway.

    if i had to have something on the front of the house id probably prefer the andersen, but it really depends on your situation and how often you are charging.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    Cona wrote: »
    Trying to make up my mind to install either a EO mini or an Andersen EV. Anyone care to provide some insight?

    Only thing I can see is that the Andersen looks much nicer. Also, it has load sensing capabilities which is good as I have an electric shower. The cable managment on the Andersen is also tidier as it wraps around inside the box. Would I have the patience to be cable wrapping everyday though? Prob not.

    The Andersen being nicer is the main advantage I see with it.

    Wrapping the cable inside th box everyday will eventually become a PITA and you'll probably stop doing it.

    Not worth the price, imo, but the looks are subjective and it might be a deal breaker for some people if the charge point location is prominent at the front of your house, so I can understand that need too.

    Ultimately it will be down to your preference. Both charge points will charge the car! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭loopymum


    I'm probably going for the Zappi as that seems to be the most best priced for my needs, ie heatpump, I don't have solar panels or pv but possibly in the future, who knows.

    Do I need an additional CT clamp? for the heat pump? Help?

    Do I need the Harvi? I'm thinking no?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,403 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Cona wrote: »
    Trying to make up my mind to install either a EO mini or an Andersen EV. Anyone care to provide some insight?

    Only thing I can see is that the Andersen looks much nicer. Also, it has load sensing capabilities which is good as I have an electric shower. The cable managment on the Andersen is also tidier as it wraps around inside the box. Would I have the patience to be cable wrapping everyday though? Prob not.


    You can get an add-on load sensor for the EO mini FYI

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    loopymum wrote: »
    I'm probably going for the Zappi as that seems to be the most best priced for my needs, ie heatpump, I don't have solar panels or pv but possibly in the future, who knows.

    Do I need an additional CT clamp? for the heat pump? Help?

    Do I need the Harvi? I'm thinking no?

    No, you will get one clamp in the box. That will go on your mains feed and that covers the whole house inc the heat pump.

    If/when you get Solar you can get a second clamp then to monitor that, but not mandatory.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,084 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    loopymum wrote: »
    I'm probably going for the Zappi as that seems to be the most best priced for my needs, ie heatpump, I don't have solar panels or pv but possibly in the future, who knows.

    Do I need an additional CT clamp? for the heat pump? Help?

    Do I need the Harvi? I'm thinking no?

    you dont need a zappi because you have a heat pump, i have a heatpump and the eo mini smart home set up from EI.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,542 ✭✭✭eoferrall


    Cona wrote: »
    Trying to make up my mind to install either a EO mini or an Andersen EV. Anyone care to provide some insight?

    Only thing I can see is that the Andersen looks much nicer. Also, it has load sensing capabilities which is good as I have an electric shower. The cable management on the Andersen is also tidier as it wraps around inside the box. Would I have the patience to be cable wrapping everyday though? Prob not.

    When I was looking, I liked the Anderson, but the price was ridiculous. if they are still costing 1000+ just for the equipment i'd pass. unless money is no object and its pure aesthetics, then Anderson.

    i know I don't wrap mine....!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,234 ✭✭✭loopymum


    Cyrus wrote: »
    you dont need a zappi because you have a heat pump, i have a heatpump and the eo mini smart home set up from EI.

    Do you have a priority switch or something with that? What's your set up if you don't mind me asking and how much did you pay? And how do you find it?
    My heat pump can pull as much as 12kw
    I also am installing 2 pyrolytic ovens that need a 16amp each and a 7kw hob


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,084 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    loopymum wrote: »
    Do you have a priority switch or something with that? What's your set up if you don't mind me asking and how much did you pay? And how do you find it?
    My heat pump can pull as much as 12kw
    I also am installing 2 pyrolytic ovens that need a 16amp each and a 7kw hob

    its the EO smart home from Electric ireland (effectively an untethered EO mini with the smart home hub)

    it as active load management (a priority switch is more basic)

    its 1099 from EI (mine was a little extra as i needed some armoured cable)

    works fine, there are pictures of the install in the thread.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,120 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    loopymum wrote: »
    My heat pump can pull as much as 12kw

    Your heat pump probably pulls a max of about 3kW. 12kW is its output.

    From a charge point perspective you will need one that does load sensing as its possible you could have the heatpump, the car and a kettle or oven etc running at the same time so load sensing will be needed.... Zappi, Andersen, EO Mini(with optional extra) etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    Hi all ,I know this question was ask before I just can’t find it. Got a rolec 32a second hard installed tonight but my Nissan Leaf is only charging at 3.0kw any ideas. was told the wires are all connected ok on a 40a breaker.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,091 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    wush06 wrote: »
    Hi all ,I know this question was ask before I just can’t find it. Got a rolec 32a second hard installed tonight but my Nissan Leaf is only charging at 3.0kw any ideas. was told the wires are all connected ok on a 40a breaker.

    Is it tethered or not? The cable may be limited to 16 amp

    Also some leafs only have a 3kw charger in them


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    graememk wrote: »
    Is it tethered or not? The cable may be limited to 16 amp

    Also some leafs only have a 3kw charger in them

    Thanks for the reply it’s only a new leaf so definitely has the 6.6kw and the cable is 32a. I changed the settings in the car to 6kw but still only charging at 3kw. The charger lights up ok. I will do some more searching because I remember reading someone else having the same problem but can’t remember where I read it..


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,091 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    wush06 wrote: »
    Thanks for the reply it’s only a new leaf so definitely has the 6.6kw and the cable is 32a. I changed the settings in the car to 6kw but still only charging at 3kw. The charger lights up ok. I will do some more searching because I remember reading someone else having the same problem but can’t remember where I read it..

    Can you go to a public charge point and verify that you get full speed there?

    Helps narrow down the issue


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    graememk wrote: »
    Can you go to a public charge point and verify that you get full speed there?

    Helps narrow down the issue

    It’s a 40 kWh Leaf so 6.6 OBC is standard. I’d say the problem is deffo in the Rolec charge point

    Can you verify if the chargepoint is 16a or 32a?


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    Yes,when the unit was opened it had 32a on it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    I bought the charger secondhand it was only 6 months old for talking to a lad at Liffey valley while charging. He got a new zappie and solar panels so that was just sitting in his shed it looks brand new as well.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    wush06 wrote: »
    Yes,when the unit was opened it had 32a on it.

    The cable from your fuse board is 6mm Sq? The RCBO in the fuse board is 40a or similar?

    Is it a setting on the Rolec maybe? Maybe the worse go into different terminals for the 32a function?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,091 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Gumbo wrote: »
    It’s a 40 kWh Leaf so 6.6 OBC is standard. I’d say the problem is deffo in the Rolec charge point

    Can you verify if the chargepoint is 16a or 32a?

    Is there any settings in the leaf that limits charging? There is on the Niro, but its buried in the menus


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,091 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Gumbo wrote: »
    The cable from your fuse board is 6mm Sq? The RCBO in the fuse board is 40a or similar?

    Is it a setting on the Rolec maybe? Maybe the worse go into different terminals for the 32a function?

    Doesnt look like it


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,403 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    loopymum wrote: »
    Do you have a priority switch or something with that? What's your set up if you don't mind me asking and how much did you pay? And how do you find it?
    My heat pump can pull as much as 12kw
    I also am installing 2 pyrolytic ovens that need a 16amp each and a 7kw hob

    The power rating for the heat pump is the heat output, not necessarily the electric load.

    You can read the spec sheet for the heat pump or look at the size of the breaker to figure out how much power it might draw.

    Remember to take the immersion into account as well, the heat pump might use this to supplement the output.

    Sounds like active load management would suit you better than a priority switch. A priority switch basically turns off the charger is whatever else is connected is in use.

    Load management on the other hand will adjust the charging current based on how much power the rest of the house is using

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    Gumbo wrote: »
    The cable from your fuse board is 6mm Sq? The RCBO in the fuse board is 40a or similar?

    Is it a setting on the Rolec maybe? Maybe the worse go into different terminals for the 32a function?

    Yes it’s heavy grey cable the new breaker is 40a only installed today. The electrician is reci certified as I needed the grant form filled out but it was not him that came out but two of his workers. When they finished I ask them to fill the form but they said it one have to be the boss that does that so I held back half the money. Not sure about setting on the unit itself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 688 ✭✭✭wush06


    graememk wrote: »
    Is there any settings in the leaf that limits charging? There is on the Niro, but its buried in the menus

    Yes there is but i changed that and it done nothing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,403 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    wush06 wrote: »
    Yes there is but i changed that and it done nothing.

    Is it an untethered charger? It's a long shot but you could have gotten a 16amp cable, like what the older Leaf has. Checking your cable on a public charger will rule that out

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Is it an untethered charger? It's a long shot but you could have gotten a 16amp cable, like what the older Leaf has. Checking your cable on a public charger will rule that out

    This must be it.
    It can’t be anything else now.

    Where are you based?
    All you need to test it is a 32a Type 2 cable from someone nearby.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,403 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Gumbo wrote: »
    This must be it.
    It can’t be anything else now.

    Where are you based?
    All you need to test it is a 32a Type 2 cable from someone nearby.

    Where would it have come from though? It couldn't be a gen 1 leaf cable because the new one uses a type 2 plug. Are Nissan cheaping out on the charging cable now?

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,344 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Where would it have come from though? It couldn't be a gen 1 leaf cable because the new one uses a type 2 plug. Are Nissan cheaping out on the charging cable now?

    You can get 16a and 32a single phase cables. Cheaper to make by pennies but cheaper to sell also. Not sure if this would limit it though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,403 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Gumbo wrote: »
    You can get 16a and 32a single phase cables. Cheaper to make by pennies but cheaper to sell also. Not sure if this would limit it though.

    It'll definitely limit it, I can't remember how but the charger 'detects' the max current the cable can take so it doesn't try to push 32a down a 16a cable

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,091 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Gumbo wrote: »
    This must be it.
    It can’t be anything else now.

    Where are you based?
    All you need to test it is a 32a Type 2 cable from someone nearby.

    Thats why i suggested going to a public SCP, if it charges slow on that, it would point to the cable, if it charges at the full rate.. :shrug:


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