***** Motors chat - round 12 *****

vintagevrs

GustavoFring wrote: »

I would say it getting up to temp is a big thing with these engines though. I work in different locations but 25km into the office, especially in winter, doesn't even have the coolant heated up in mine, so the oil is obviously in the same boat.

Is your gauge for coolant? Think mines is oil temp.

@MM sorry to hear your pain on the car.

wotzgoingon

Just watched a interesting video on VVD. I knew about VVT(VANOS, VVT-i, etc...)and VVL(VTEC, MIVEC Neo VVL, etc...).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhsgdwUX1-w

GustavoFring

vintagevrs wrote: »

Is your gauge for coolant? Think mines is oil temp.

There's an app for that

My dash is the same, only shows oil temp. Dunno if the full digital dash does both maybe.

Leonard Hofstadter

F3Xs show oil temperature only. At least it's better than E9Xs which didn't give you anything. I assume that like with the older BMWs you can get the coolant temperature through hidden menu 7. Oil temperature is more useful than coolant in any case for knowing if the engine is fully warmed up.

vintagevrs

Yeah ye had me worried there for a second. I had a golf before I didn't realise the guage was for coolant not oil.... for a little while at least :S.

mfceiling

Lads who do you need to contact about traffic light sequences?

On my road they've changed the light sequence where it seems they have put a timer at a set of lights....grand except one road has little traffic filtering out bar rush hour in the morning and the other road is out of a housing estate with about 20 houses in it. So now if you hit a red light on the main road you could wait upwards on a minute or more where nothing comes out of either road. This is causing a large back up on the main road and pushing back on to another large enough junction.

punisher5112

mfceiling wrote: »

Lads who do you need to contact about traffic light sequences?

On my road they've changed the light sequence where it seems they have put a timer at a set of lights....grand except one road has little traffic filtering out bar rush hour in the morning and the other road is out of a housing estate with about 20 houses in it. So now if you hit a red light on the main road you could wait upwards on a minute or more where nothing comes out of either road. This is causing a large back up on the main road and pushing back on to another large enough junction.

Local council roads department

For example dublincitycoco .. go onto site select nearest options and email or ring obviously business hours, if it is dangerous there should be emergency contact.

cadaliac

cadaliac wrote: »

Still, not acceptable.

Also, all diesels lead different lives. So, why aren't all the diesels that live on "cold miles" failing? I'll tell you why - they're not all bad designs.

Is the 3.0 diesel BMW a bad design? Do lots of them sh1t themselves like this one?

It's obviously an outlier and my view is the small mileage over 7 years with lots of cold miles was likely a contributory factor to the failure.

MetzgerMeister

BMW are now covering 100% of the engine cost. This brings my bill down to 3k all in.

Wailin

Great news MM.

It pays to keep the service history with bmw big time instead of trying to save 20% from an indy.

vintagevrs

Take the new engine to an indy now

wotzgoingon

Quick question that hopefully someone knows the answer to. My car rolls when parked in gear. All my cars over the years I always leave in second and pull up the hand brake. My current car the first time I noticed it was when I parked a bit of a slope and left it in second didn't pull up hand brake and car started to roll while I was still sitting in it so just pressed the brake and done a bit of testing just in case it was a fluke or wasn't engaged in gear but no my car rolls while in gear. Just thinking when I type this I should have tried other gears but I also put all my cars in second and never had a problem.

Interslice

I'm sorry but all on about cold mileage are talking out of their hoop. It has absolutely no bearing.

colm_mcm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

Quick question that hopefully someone knows the answer to. My car rolls when parked in gear. All my cars over the years I always leave in second and pull up the hand brake. My current car the first time I noticed it was when I parked a bit of a slope and left it in second didn't pull up hand brake and car started to roll while I was still sitting in it so just pressed the brake and done a bit of testing just in case it was a fluke or wasn't engaged in gear but no my car rolls while in gear. Just thinking when I type this I should have tried other gears but I also put all my cars in second and never had a problem.

It’ll roll indefinitely, or for a few inches?

What car is it?

wotzgoingon

colm_mcm wrote: »

It’ll roll indefinitely, or for a few inches?

What car is it?

Roll forever. 1998 Toyota Levin.

MetzgerMeister

vintagevrs wrote: »

Take the new engine to an indy now

I will in me hole :pac:

Gonna ask them if I can take part of the old engine to make a table from.

Ryath

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I will in me hole :pac:

Gonna ask them if I can take part of the old engine to make a table from.

Could end up being sent back to Germany for inspection? That happened with a BMW motorcycle engine I had replaced free under good will, had to pay labour.

vintagevrs

wotzgoingon wrote: »

Just watched a interesting video on VVD. I knew about VVT(VANOS, VVT-i, etc...)and VVL(VTEC, MIVEC Neo VVL, etc...).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhsgdwUX1-w

Cams are so old fashioned....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3cFfM3r510

carsfan2

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

BMW are now covering 100% of the engine cost. This brings my bill down to 3k all in.

Great stuff. Lessens the pain a little bit.

wotzgoingon

They mention Freevalve in that video I posted but Hyundai wanted a mechanical system.

vintagevrs

wotzgoingon wrote: »

They mention Freevalve in that video I posted but Hyundai wanted a mechanical system.

Oops, just watched the Hyundai one to the end where free valve is mentioned.

Surely the one with a lot more moving parts is more prone to issues, but time will tell.

MetzgerMeister

Interslice wrote: »

I'm sorry but all on about cold mileage are talking out of their hoop. It has absolutely no bearing.

Pun intended? :pac:

Sexual Chocolate

Leonard Hofstadter wrote: »

F3Xs show oil temperature only. At least it's better than E9Xs which didn't give you anything. I assume that like with the older BMWs you can get the coolant temperature through hidden menu 7. Oil temperature is more useful than coolant in any case for knowing if the engine is fully warmed up.

One of the reasons I bought a cheap obd2 scanner with live data for mine, and to read fault codes. I know there's some feature in the dash to tell you the coolant temp but I couldn't be arsed pressing a button for 20 seconds then adding numbers and pressing it again 15 times plus the rest.

colm_mcm

wotzgoingon wrote: »

Roll forever. 1998 Toyota Levin.

That’s strange, my totally uneducated guess is you either have poor engine compression or a clutch issue

Interslice

Interslice wrote: »

I'm sorry but all on about cold mileage are talking out of their hoop. It has absolutely no bearing.

Yeah, engines not getting to operating temp most days is great for them.

Interslice

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Pun intended? :pac:

If it winds up a few folk all the better

wotzgoingon

colm_mcm wrote: »

That’s strange, my totally uneducated guess is you either have poor engine compression or a clutch issue

That doesn't sound good.

colm_mcm

Does the Rev counter go up when it rolls (with ignition on?)

wotzgoingon

colm_mcm wrote: »

Does the Rev counter go up when it rolls (with ignition on?)

I don't know and I'm no where near a hill at the minute. What would it mean if it done that?

colm_mcm

It would mean the engine was turning

wotzgoingon

colm_mcm wrote: »

It would mean the engine was turning

Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

selectamatic

If a 20v 4age hasn't enough compression to hold a car in 2nd then it is completely goosed.

Must be a clutch issue?

wotzgoingon

The car seems to run alright. I will get a compression test done some time probably next week.

wotzgoingon

Just thinking about it you would know from driving it was down on compression or would you? I over took two cars today.

Midnight_EG

wotzgoingon wrote: »

Just thinking about it you would know from driving it was down on compression or would you? I over took two cars today.

Not really if wear is linear across cylinders, unless it's down below 70psi

vintagevrs

Had my tyre pressure warning pop up today, screw found in tyre and repaired. Pretty cool the way that system works I thought and saved me potentially wrecking a tyre.

wotzgoingon

Midnight_EG wrote: »

Not really if wear is linear across cylinders, unless it's down below 70psi

I will get the compression test done early next week to be sure.

Sexual Chocolate

Firestone tyres lads ? They seem to tick the boxes. A rating in the wet and C rating for fuel. I know they are made by Bridgestone and that's about it. Wise to put them on a BMW ? Other alternatives in my price range are Uniroyle Rainsports, Hankook or Kuhmos.

I know all are decent tyres for front wheel cars but not sure if I need to look at things differently with a rear wheel ?

CianRyan

The coefficient of friction works the same on Micra’s as it does on 335i’s. :pac:

I had Firestone’s for a while, they were cheap (like myself) and did a good job, even under skidding with no ABS.
Also used Generals on my RX8 which I found pretty decent, even pushing it in wet but they hated the cold.

Bet cheap type I’ve tried of been Nankang’s NS2, they also do a steely sport and track version. Of that tyre. They’re heavier than your average but perform very well, leaps and bound ahead of where most people would rank them.

But if you can afford rainsports then they are the perfect Irish tyre.

Tazzimus

Rainsports would be the choice from that lot.
Perfect for our lovely dry climate, good amount of grip as well.

MetzgerMeister

Goodyear Eagle F1 all day

selectamatic

The only issue with rainsports is the wear rate.

The sidewall is pretty soft too.

Carpentry

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Firestone tyres lads ? They seem to tick the boxes. A rating in the wet and C rating for fuel. I know they are made by Bridgestone and that's about it. Wise to put them on a BMW ? Other alternatives in my price range are Uniroyle Rainsports, Hankook or Kuhmos.

I know all are decent tyres for front wheel cars but not sure if I need to look at things differently with a rear wheel ?

Nexen Nfera SU1. Had them on Lexus IS250, which is rear wheel drive. Great rubber.

Sexual Chocolate

selectamatic wrote: »

The only issue with rainsports is the wear rate.

The sidewall is pretty soft too.

I head that about the Rainsport 3s but things improved with the 5s. Was told certain Hankooks are like that as well.

Had a look at the Goodyear F1s there and the fronts don't seem that bad on price but the rear are more then I'd be willing to spend especially when you add in the cost of fitting and balancing.

morritty

Rainsport 3 are great, but after 12000km they're starting to slip alot in the wet, I'm considering firestone roadhawks, had them on herselfs mazda and she got about 35000km from them.

wotzgoingon

Sexual Chocolate wrote: »

Was told certain Hankooks are like that as well.

I can agree with you there. I had two Hankooks on the front one time and they wore pretty quick. Can't remember the exact model but they were one of their expensive ones.

wotzgoingon

If anyone can remember I mentioned about DynaBeads a while back, well pure snake oil they make your wheels more imbalanced. Got them taking out today after driving with them for about two weeks.

vintagevrs

I checked my rear tyres this week and was surprised they are nearly down to the wear indicators. Just checked when I got them and I've put 25k km on them so not too bad after all, I would have guessed it was a lot less.

**Edit....


I thought that wasnt too bad based on my previous experience. I just googled it typical tyre wear time.



I read 10-15k miles and though ah grand so. Then realised they are saying with that annual millage a tyre should last 3 to 4 years!

punisher5112

vintagevrs wrote: »

I checked my rear tyres this week and was surprised they are nearly down to the wear indicators. Just checked when I got them and I've put 25k km on them so not too bad after all, I would have guessed it was a lot less.

**Edit....


I thought that wasnt too bad based on my previous experience. I just googled it typical tyre wear time.



I read 10-15k miles and though ah grand so. Then realised they are saying with that annual millage a tyre should last 3 to 4 years!

Motorway mainly then one would get more, depending on how you corner.

If you drive back roads this will wear them much quicker and of course if tracking is off.

Leonard Hofstadter

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Goodyear Eagle F1 all day

Seconded.