MTB Brakes - Sintered Brake Pads on "Resin" Disc

brownetara

So i was told that even though my disc has "Resin" printed on it, its okay to use Sintered pads - any thoughts?

Lemming

I'd probably just stick with the resin pads tbf. Or swap out to a different rotor if you are that sold on using sintered pads. Sintered pads will generate more heat (metallic compound mix such as they are), and some lower-end rotors are susceptible to warping under increased heat loads. Increased heat load for such brake setups may possibly also have a detrimental effect on piston seals but YMMV as the expression goes. At the very least, you will most likely discolour your rotors.

Some brands also have warranty clauses regards use of other manufactures brakes; so you may want to consider that also if you think you are still in warranty. What brakes are they anyway? Are they mechanical or hydraulic?

saccades

Resin/organic are better stoppers than sintered/metal but don't last as long.

The rotors are Steel, fit whatever you want but don't drag and check the thickness everything it's your birthday.

Lemming

saccades wrote: »

Resin/organic are better stoppers than sintered/metal but don't last as long.

The rotors are Steel, fit whatever you want but don't drag and check the thickness everything it's your birthday.

Cheaper rotors are typically not heat-treated (and certainly is the case for the cheaper/lower-model Shimano rotors, although that may also depend on year/model, not sure) and ergo will not take kindly to sintered pads in the medium to long run. Also raises questions around the heat build-up on the rest of the braking system as generated heat has to go somewhere if the rotor can't take it; which can result in degradation of piston seals and reducing the effectiveness of the mineral oil or DOT fluid used in hydraulic systems. Since the OP hasn't told us what types of brakes/rotors they have nor whether mechanical or hydraulic, it's all guess work.

But sure, the rotors are steel so fit whatever you want.

brownetara

Not sure if photos will help but these are the discs and brake calipers. It’s a 2017 Kona Blast by the way

saccades

Lemming wrote: »

Cheaper rotors are typically not heat-treated (and certainly is the case for the cheaper/lower-model Shimano rotors, although that may also depend on year/model, not sure) and ergo will not take kindly to sintered pads in the medium to long run. Also raises questions around the heat build-up on the rest of the braking system as generated heat has to go somewhere if the rotor can't take it; which can result in degradation of piston seals and reducing the effectiveness of the mineral oil or DOT fluid used in hydraulic systems. Since the OP hasn't told us what types of brakes/rotors they have nor whether mechanical or hydraulic, it's all guess work.

But sure, the rotors are steel so fit whatever you want.

Jesus, you are massively over thinking this.

Heat treated steel.... Frames Vs steel.... Why are frames heat treated... Something to do with localised heat from welding perhaps?

A steel disc is either laser, water, CNC or stamped out from steel. Nowt fancy apart from the cutting method on say a hope carrier disc.

If you do start to over heat it'll change colour according to the heat.

There isn't the steepness for long enough in Ireland to blue rotors, I've seen it once in 15-20 years when I was in the Alps.

I've been over 100kg running the cheapest brand X stuff from wiggle/CRC and it's fine, I've dragged like a dog with worms. Heavier than quality Shimano/hope carrier discs but not a bother.

Heat build up is a problem on massive alpine descents with someone dragging their brakes on early generation brakes before trips to the Alps were a more normal thing. If your really worried get ice tech pads...

Organic for extra stopping power but shorter life, sintered for pad life.

Rotors... Doesn't matter... If you over heat (colour), swap out, if worn too thin, swap out. If your brakes are over heating either pick a 4 pot more DH orientated system or learn not to drag.

It's not rocket science.

brownetara

Thanks for all the help guys, will run with the sintered til they or the rotor wear out, then may go back to Resin depending on how i find the stopping power with the sintered!