Eir rural FTTH thread II

tsue921i8wljb3

DubInTheWest wrote: »

Thanks navi.

I just logged into the archer and doesn't seem to have 'use as access point.'

I'd want both routers using wireless to have full coverage, so when you say 'assign non over lapping channels,' do you mean I should set separate ssid's on both routers, so I'd have 4 ssid's in total ?

Just another thought. What do you think would be best, to do as I said above and create an access point, or just run a rj45 cable from the 'box on the wall,' sorry don't know the official name for it and again bring it down in a central part of the house and just use the offical eir router from there and don't use any access point.

Right now I'm using that archer c9 and it's a quarter way at the top of the house and it barely reaches the end rooms with a signal so I'd definitely need it a central location and that might actually do the trick if I had the new eir router centralized. Or better to go with an access point ?

No you would not have four SSIDs. You would have 2 SSIDs, one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz. By non overlapping channels I mean set the router to use say Channel 1 and the access point to use channel 11 for 2.4GHz and say channels 36 and 40 for example on 5GHz.

You'd probably get better coverage with the router plus access point method but it's up to yourself what you want to do.

Liamo_mu

MBSnr wrote: »

I bought this TP-Link-AC1200 to use as an AP.

It's basic but it does a good job in my view.

Cheers mate. Leaning towards this one. Was it easy to set up as an access point? Do you use the ethernet ports on the access point? You getting the full speed on them?

DubInTheWest

Dominique Loud Waistband wrote: »

No you would not have four SSIDs. You would have 2 SSIDs, one for 2.4GHz and one for 5GHz. By non overlapping channels I mean set the router to use say Channel 1 and the access point to use channel 11 for 2.4GHz and say channels 36 and 40 for example on 5GHz.

You'd probably get better coverage with the router plus access point method but it's up to yourself what you want to do.

Thanks Dominique Loud Waistband I think I have it now. I'll go with the router and access point. I was confused about the amount of ssids. So all in all for instance, if the ssid's on the eir router is eir1 for the 2.4ghz and eir2 for the 5ghz, when I log into the 'access point' I'd name the ssid's eir1 for the 2.4ghz and eir2 for the 5ghz and both routers will work together signal wise.

I'm down for install on Thursday, so looking forward to it and want to be organized.

babi-hrse

Dominique Loud Waistband wrote: »

Multi level split design using 1:8 then 1:4 splitters. They are housed in the DP boxes AFAIK.

They're housed in splitter boxes looks exactly like a do bpeo box but usually see thicker cables that carry multiple strands and no individual fibre dropwires coming out of them they're mostly underground occasionally on a pole at a crossroads where the fibre goes up different roads from box. What it looks like inside I have no idea never opened one never will don't need a can of worms on my hands.

babi-hrse

Marlow wrote: »

It's their own Sky Q Hub.

/M

Did an install couple of weeks ago sky have new modems dunno what it is but looks alot like the Vodafone sh3000 modem
Wan port is lanport 4 works straight out of the box no requiring to log into router to change DSLonly to wanOE

tsue921i8wljb3

babi-hrse wrote: »

They're housed in splitter boxes looks exactly like a dp bpeo box but usually see thicker cables that carry multiple strands and no individual fibre dropwires coming out of them they're mostly underground occasionally on a pole at a crossroads where the fibre goes up different roads from box. What it looks like inside I have no idea never opened one never will don't need a can of worms on my hands.
Usually easily identified by yellow sticker having tlh 9_00402a/c they have / in the description no idea what it means it's just not a dp

The 1:4 are in the DPs you work on as each premises is connected to the output of a 1:4 splitter.

tsue921i8wljb3

DubInTheWest wrote: »

Thanks navi I think I have it now. I'll go with the router and access point. I was confused about the amount of ssids. So all in all for instance, if the ssid's on the eir router is eir1 for the 2.4ghz and eir2 for the 5ghz, when I log into the 'access point' I'd name the ssid's eir1 for the 2.4ghz and eir2 for the 5ghz and both routers will work together signal wise.

I'm down for install on Thursday, so looking forward to it and want to be organized.

Yep. That is what you do.

babi-hrse

DubInTheWest wrote: »

Lads, I'm not the best at the networking side of things so just looking for a little bit of advice, and if I do need to go down the route I'll open a thread for help. Basically if the engineer installs the eir router in my sitting room I'm screwed as no way will it reach down the end of the house. If he puts it in the hall I 'should' be ok signal wise. But just reading the above posts about access points.

Well right now with my current ADSL, I'm using a 'TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit,' (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beamforming-Technology-UK-Archer-C9/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549394499&sr=8-2&keywords=archer++c9) as the eir modem/router wouldn't reach the house signal wise.

Firstly, is it possible to use this router as an access point, and if so, is the gist of it, I run a rj45 cable from the eir router into the attic, bring it down in a central part of the house and connect the eir router to the archer c9 via that rj45 cable, do some configuration between the 2 routers and when all is said and done I can let the eir router look after the tv's etc.. in the sitting room and let the archer look after the rest of the house (long bungalow.) ?

Have I got the basic idea of things, or should I get some wireless powerline adapters ? The reason I didn't want to use powerline adapters is the house is over 35 years old and not that many plug sockets in it.

If fibre yes you can move the modem to end point of cable run and plug other end in ont
If on ADSL VDSL (copper connection) just crimp an rj11 on white/blue blue pair and plug in the modem which order does not matter polarity doesn't matter just (interesting side note broadband will even work on one leg alone earth or battery it'll just be really crappy with alot of collisions and dropped packets)
But I went into an electrical wholesalers today and I saw a WiFi ap double wall socket.
Dunno how reliable they would be but would work well for someone who didn't want to see devices plugged in hallway.
Basically it's a replacement double socket wall fixture with two usb ports and a WPS button on front to synch to router.
So I guess they exist now. Dunno how well they will work being around that much electricity and basically being a direct conduit for 220vac

savemejebus

DubInTheWest wrote: »

Thanks navi.

I just logged into the archer and doesn't seem to have 'use as access point.'

I'd want both routers using wireless to have full coverage, so when you say 'assign non over lapping channels,' do you mean I should set separate ssid's on both routers, so I'd have 4 ssid's in total ?

Just another thought. What do you think would be best, to do as I said above and create an access point, or just run a rj45 cable from the 'box on the wall,' sorry don't know the official name for it and again bring it down in a central part of the house and just use the offical eir router from there and don't use any access point.

Right now I'm using that archer c9 and it's a quarter way at the top of the house and it barely reaches the end rooms with a signal so I'd definitely need it a central location and that might actually do the trick if I had the new eir router centralized. Or better to go with an access point ?

The archer does WDS bridging so this article should be what you need to use your current modem along with the eir router https://www.tp-link.com/us/faq-1083.html

tuxy

Wouldn't a wired connection to the second access point be much more stable than WDS bridging?

tsue921i8wljb3

tuxy wrote: »

Wouldn't a wired connection to the second access point be much more stable than WDS bridging?

Yeah. Don't use WDS bridging unless no other option.

savemejebus

Obviously mileage may vary but I’m getting rock solid service with an archer c7 using wds with my fritz!box but then I’m in a situation where I couldn’t easily run a cable.

Roen

Ordered 300Mb there Friday 1st Feb. Fingers crossed.

MBSnr

Liamo_mu wrote: »

Cheers mate. Leaning towards this one. Was it easy to set up as an access point? Do you use the ethernet ports on the access point? You getting the full speed on them?

It's fairly straight forward to set up as an access point. There's a mode setting in the config to set it up that way. I can't recall if I had to turn DHCP off on it - that might happen when you choose the mode. Just rename the wireless networks to be the same name (and password) as your existing. I manually set the channels as well, so that neither overlap each other. I'm lucky, there's very little wifi around me.
You connect the input from the main router into the WLAN socket leaving 4 LAN ports free. I have it as an AP using powerline adapters without any of the LAN ports used. I get the speed of the powerline adapters, so it's about 150Mbps most of the time, dipping to 80-100Mbps if electrical things are on. Plenty fast enough for my needs anyhow.

Liamo_mu

MBSnr wrote: »

It's fairly straight forward to set up as an access point. There's a mode setting in the config to set it up that way. I can't recall if I had to turn DHCP off on it - that might happen when you choose the mode. Just rename the wireless networks to be the same name (and password) as your existing. I manually set the channels as well, so that neither overlap each other. I'm lucky, there's very little wifi around me.
You connect the input from the main router into the WLAN socket leaving 4 LAN ports free. I have it as an AP using powerline adapters without any of the LAN ports used. I get the speed of the powerline adapters, so it's about 150Mbps most of the time, dipping to 80-100Mbps if electrical things are on. Plenty fast enough for my needs anyhow.

Cheers thanks for all the info. Bit the bullet and bought it off Amazon.

BandMember

Eir are still giving out free homeplugs, yes? Are they any good? Would you have to go directly socket to socket or would extension leads be an option?

tuxy

Extension leads are know to add interference to the signal.
No idea if the eir ones are any good but there is a big difference in how they perform in different houses so you never know until you try.
I'd only recommend them on slower connections and not FTTH as getting 150Mb is way above the average results I've seen.

Edit: I forgot to say if you have FTTH, need better wifi coverage and there is no way you can run a cable a mesh wifi network is probably your best option.

Andy From Sligo

These power line adaptors (not the wireless ones) they use the mains 230v ac wiring of the house to distribute the signal from the Ethernet don't they? So I am just wondering do they have to be on the same mains ring circuit? Say like you have a 2 storey house and the consumer unit (fuse box) has split mcb's for upstairs sockets and downstairs sockets (which it should do if the house is wired up correctly) do the work OK still if you plug the sender downstairs and the receiver upstairs on a different circuit then ? And what if one or both of them are plugged into a surge protected socket will they still work OK?

tuxy

In both those cases usually the adaptors still work but at a reduced speed, in some cases there will not be a strong enough signal to make connection.

I've tried them in many different houses with very mixed results and in one house I couldn't get them to work at all.

babi-hrse

Don't work well on end of an extension lead don't work well on a spur socket don't work well if in an outbuilding with a separate fuseboard basically they don't like many fuses in the way.
Eir only give homeplugs for broadband and TV

antseanoifig

So finally had KN out to install for me yesterday, all went smoothly with line dropped in overhead as the pole is just outside our house.

A FritzBox 4040 also arrived same day from my ISP, so late last night I sat down to connect it all up eagerly awaiting my move from 8mb wireless to 150mb ftth

However, while the FritzBox portal shows internet connection, WAN etc. none of my devices (laptop, phone, tablet) can get an internet connection.

All are showing "Connected, no internet".

It was late last night so couldn't reach my ISP and in work all day today so before I reach them again later on, would any one here have an idea as to what the issue may be?

MBSnr

Andy From Sligo wrote: »

These power line adaptors (not the wireless ones) they use the mains 230v ac wiring of the house to distribute the signal from the Ethernet don't they? So I am just wondering do they have to be on the same mains ring circuit? Say like you have a 2 storey house and the consumer unit (fuse box) has split mcb's for upstairs sockets and downstairs sockets (which it should do if the house is wired up correctly) do the work OK still if you plug the sender downstairs and the receiver upstairs on a different circuit then ? And what if one or both of them are plugged into a surge protected socket will they still work OK?

I ended up buying the AC1300 version just to get maybe between 50-250Mbps in any location in the house. (No way they run at full speed). On the same ring circuit they are nearly as fast as my internet (300Mbps). Upstairs, over a fuse box, they run maybe 80-150Mbps. I have a set of 4 and if they are all in use, the throughput again drops. It's rare though for me to have all 4 running and you can set them to sleep if there is no data traffic.

So for my setup they are doing the job. I'll be dropping from 300Mbps to 150Mbps after 12 months anyhow (Got blinded by the speed jump from 7Mbps....) and then they'll mostly be running at the same speed as my internet. Ping times are not affected by them, so it's hard to justify the hassle of drilling and installing a LAN cable to those rooms at present.

SoupyNorman

antseanoifig wrote: »

So finally had KN out to install for me yesterday, all went smoothly with line dropped in overhead as the pole is just outside our house.

A FritzBox 4040 also arrived same day from my ISP, so late last night I sat down to connect it all up eagerly awaiting my move from 8mb wireless to 150mb ftth

However, while the FritzBox portal shows internet connection, WAN etc. none of my devices (laptop, phone, tablet) can get an internet connection.

All are showing "Connected, no internet".

It was late last night so couldn't reach my ISP and in work all day today so before I reach them again later on, would any one here have an idea as to what the issue may be?

Engineer didn't test while on site?

babi-hrse

SoupyNorman wrote: »

Engineer didn't test while on site?

They don't they just make sure the light is better than -18 dB and make sure the ont locks to the network.
They can complete their job without customers modem arriving at all.
I'd say he stuck the ethernet into DSL port it doesn't go in there it's not the same as copper network.
Stick in wan/lan1 port

cnocbui

babi-hrse wrote: »

They don't they just make sure the light is better than -18 dB and make sure the ont locks to the network.
They can complete their job without customers modem arriving at all.
I'd say he stuck the ethernet into DSL port it doesn't go in there it's not the same as copper network.
Stick in wan/lan1 port

Er, my KN installer checked on a tablet that there was a usable internet connection as well as checking the signal strength.

chris_ie

cnocbui wrote: »

Er, my KN installer checked on a tablet that there was a usable internet connection as well as checking the signal strength.

When I had my install he briefly checked, said it wasnt working. All his part was working just not the internet. After he left I got at it and he had just plugged it in the wrong port. Can understand why its not up to them to ensure its working.

antseanoifig

babi-hrse wrote: »

They don't they just make sure the light is better than -18 dB and make sure the ont locks to the network.
They can complete their job without customers modem arriving at all.
I'd say he stuck the ethernet into DSL port it doesn't go in there it's not the same as copper network.
Stick in wan/lan1 port

Already in WAN port, have left my LAN ports free for now.

antseanoifig

chris_ie wrote: »

When I had my install he briefly checked, said it wasnt working. All his part was working just not the internet. After he left I got at it and he had just plugged it in the wrong port. Can understand why its not up to them to ensure its working.

As above - he checked via his tablet without my modem as it had not arrived at this point. Said he had the speeds up and down on his tablet with no issue.

I'll go back to my ISP this evening, not sure if its the FritzBox that has an issue or not. Wouldn't expect it to considering it's just out of the box.

babi-hrse

chris_ie wrote: »

When I had my install he briefly checked, said it wasnt working. All his part was working just not the internet. After he left I got at it and he had just plugged it in the wrong port. Can understand why its not up to them to ensure its working.

It's just the level of service agreed. Everything is piecework. It also prevents them getting tied up trying to configure the router. If they're not getting paid to do it they won't do it their even instructed not to do it. I do it if its not going to be an issue but don't expect it to be done.(Customer hands me router sorry i don't know how this goes together do you mind showing me) I have no issue with helping plug it in.
it makes no bearing on my work so long as I have ont working perfectly before I leave.

babi-hrse

antseanoifig wrote: »

As above - he checked via his tablet without my modem as it had not arrived at this point. Said he had the speeds up and down on his tablet with no issue.

I'll go back to my ISP this evening, not sure if its the FritzBox that has an issue or not. Wouldn't expect it to considering it's just out of the box.

He checked synch of ont to network with tablet.
Verifying that he's on correct port and olt is synched with ont
How many green lights on your ont?
You need 3 green lights
You are using an ethernet cable not the ADSL telephone cable?
Sorry not meaning to sound like I'm stating the obvious but I don't know your level of knowledge