Protecting teak (iroko) from new plaster

DamoKen

Hi, getting a new wooden framed window installed over the weekend. It's had a painted finish on the outside to protect it from the elements but I asked the joiner to leave the inside raw as I like an oiled finish on hardwood. However with the replastering around the frame after fitting I'm a bit concerned that oiling won't protect it from plaster splatters which will "burn" the wood. The finish I normally apply to anything I'm working on would be Danish oil firstly and then I seal and finish with a few coats of shellac. For the frame I would prefer just the matt oiled finish though.

So firstly would the Danish be enough to protect the wood?
I've a feeling it won't. If not would a couple of coats of shellac on top be sufficient?
Alternatively maybe just some masking tape??

Any suggestions welcome.

Cheers

kadman

Shellac is not waterproof, so that offers nothing.

Masking tape sounds good to me, and a very tidy plasterer,

No experience of danish oil in such a situation, but would probably help
as the first barrier.

DamoKen

Thanks for the reply Kadman.

I thought as shellac seals the wood it would protect against staining no?

Preference was just for an oiled finish so pushes in that direction. Plus builder just called pushing back a week which gives enough time for applying a number of oil coats throughout the next week before applying masking tape just before plastering and removing straight afterwards.
Plasterers have already been advised to take extra care and wipe any splatters as they go so hopefully that and a light tack masking tape over the oil coats will be sufficient

Interesting to hear the shellac wouldn't provide any protection though.

tabby aspreme

I doubt if masking tape will stick to recently oiled wood

DamoKen

Hi Tabby, yeah thought there might not be enough time for a few coats to dry if the installation was happening this weekend as originally planned (last minute decision yesterday evening hence wasn't already prepped).

By pushing it back til the following weekend should give me time for a few coats plus time to let it dry out before taping.

Thanks

kadman

tabby aspreme wrote: »

I doubt if masking tape will stick to recently oiled wood

According to wiki,

Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, often made of tung oil or polymerized linseed oil, although there is no defined formulation so its composition varies among manufacturers.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form. It can provide a hard-wearing, often water-resistant satin finish, or serve as a primer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish. It is a "long oil" finish, a mixture of oil and varnish, typically around one-third varnish and the rest oil.[1][2]

Contents

kadman

DamoKen wrote: »

Thanks for the reply Kadman.

I thought as shellac seals the wood it would protect against staining no?

Preference was just for an oiled finish so pushes in that direction. Plus builder just called pushing back a week which gives enough time for applying a number of oil coats throughout the next week before applying masking tape just before plastering and removing straight afterwards.
Plasterers have already been advised to take extra care and wipe any splatters as they go so hopefully that and a light tack masking tape over the oil coats will be sufficient

Interesting to hear the shellac wouldn't provide any protection though.

And according to shellacfinishes.com

One chief legend states shellac is not waterproof. Shellac, just as many other finishes, is not waterproof, however, it is quite water resistant. Shellac can easily withstand water for about 4 hours. Even if the surface is not wiped, the resulting faint white stain will still fade away as it dries.

So if you are fast wiping off the splashes...:D

But any plaster getting through to iroko will blacken it .

policarp

Put cling film on frame and celotape around hard edges and masking tape on the reveals.