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Advice on Solid Oak Wood Worktop

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  • 04-07-2018 2:21pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭


    I want a solid wood worktop for new kitchen.

    I have been quoted 1800 from kitchen company,, No thanks.

    We have a family run business, we make oak tables.
    We can make the worktop from the oak we have,
    its 2in thick and deff long enough.

    My question, and one we are not sure about.
    Why do all Oak kitchen countertops have small oak cuts jointed together, Pic below

    Why not make it from planks of wood like we would a table.

    Our guess is price, but we have been told its a warping issue.
    Our tables never warp so I dont see where they are comming from..

    Anybody helpfull input??

    1.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 12,450 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Small pieces easier to come by, more dimensionally stable and allows for ams production, any length you like.
    Table would not be exposed to as much moisture, heat from cookers/dishwashers etc

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,990 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Don't go wider than 10 cm with each plank, if you have a pick of planks choose the ones nearest to radial sawn, it will look much better than the finger jointed worktop. If the units have a full width top, not just a strip front and back , remove the center after you have fitted them, to leave just 10cm front and back as this will allow air to reach the lower side of the worktop when the doors/ drawers are open. Put a few coats of whatever finish you are using on the underside before you fit the worktop


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    Our planks range from 10 - 14inches.
    Could rip them down to 10cm.

    Yea will be oiling it, both top and bottom.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    Our planks range from 10 - 14inches.
    Could rip them down to 10cm.

    Yea will be oiling it, both top and bottom.

    It would be a shame to cut planks down to 10 cms - you will lose a lot of grain pattern.As long as the oak is down to about 10 % moisture they should not cup. As you are in the business I'm sure you know quarter sawn oak is very stable and use that if you have a choice.If you have to use tangenital cut oak, alternate the growth rings top and bottom with each plank.
    The key is to start with dry timber - a month indoors in this weather shod do the trick ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,167 ✭✭✭B-D-P--


    recipio wrote: »
    It would be a shame to cut planks down to 10 cms - you will lose a lot of grain pattern.As long as the oak is down to about 10 % moisture they should not cup. As you are in the business I'm sure you know quarter sawn oak is very stable and use that if you have a choice.If you have to use tangenital cut oak, alternate the growth rings top and bottom with each plank.
    The key is to start with dry timber - a month indoors in this weather shod do the trick ;)

    Truth is in this.
    A full width plank in counter-top would look fabulous, considering it will be close to a table we are making 8ftx5ft from said oak..


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    B-D-P-- wrote: »
    Truth is in this.
    A full width plank in counter-top would look fabulous, considering it will be close to a table we are making 8ftx5ft from said oak..

    Agree - a wide plank would look great. Just anchor it with fittings that allow it to move with the seasons.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,595 ✭✭✭MathsManiac




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