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DPC and Part M

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  • 06-09-2018 12:41pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭


    Hi,

    Could somebody clarify regarding the location of the DPC in the external leaf and ground levels?

    My knowledge might not be up to scratch on this but my previous understanding was:
    • DPC in external leaf min 150mm above ground
    • DPC and DPM on internal leaf at same level
    • Floor level approximately at same level as DPM/DPC so ~150-225mm above external ground level

    However, with Part M level access, I can't figure out how the internal floor level will be the same as the external ground level and also keep the DPC at the right height.

    Any help appreciated!


Comments

  • Subscribers Posts: 41,485 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Hi,

    Could somebody clarify regarding the location of the DPC in the external leaf and ground levels?

    My knowledge might not be up to scratch on this but my previous understanding was:
    • DPC in external leaf min 150mm above ground
    • DPC and DPM on internal leaf at same level
    • Floor level approximately at same level as DPM/DPC so ~150-225mm above external ground level

    However, with Part M level access, I can't figure out how the internal floor level will be the same as the external ground level and also keep the DPC at the right height.

    Any help appreciated!

    Drainage channels


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    I understand that you should use a drainage channel in front of a door but surely you don't need to run one around the whole perimeter of a house?

    2rVMjms.jpg

    In the image, I've explained it a bit better. On the left, you have what I would consider to be the norm for DPC - external level 150mm below DPC. As you ramp up to the level access door, you will have a zone that is all below 150mm.


  • Subscribers Posts: 41,485 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    i suppose it depends on your understanding of why a DPC is required in the first place.
    Its there to stop rising damp coming up through capillary action from below.

    The drainage channel is required at the door becuase thats generally a flat area where rainwater could pool.... but on the sloped access rainwater shouldnt pool and should run off quite quickly.

    There may be an increased risk of the outer blockwork wall getting extra wet from splashing, but that would be down to the failure of the weather proof render in the blockwork, and even at that, the outer leaf is generally expected to be a bit wet anyway.

    also note that you are required to use extra strong concrete blocks (13 Newton) above and below the DPC level in the outer leaf to protect against freeze / thaw action.


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    i suppose it depends on your understanding of why a DPC is required in the first place.
    Its there to stop rising damp coming up through capillary action from below./QUOTE]

    QgiQrdF.jpg

    Could you have the DPC up 150mm above the floor level for the external leaf so? And lower for the internal leaf?

    This would seem against Part C of the TGD manual but this was written about 13 years before Part M:
    ZLeCdHG.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    Just to follow on from the previous message, I've seen a few house extensions online and can't quite figure out the detailing of the DPC, e.g:
    F3Fbdnt.jpg from https://www.dezeen.com/2018/08/20/al-jawad-pike-peckham-house-extension-london-architecture/

    Other examples of external and internal level being very similar:
    davisville-road-al-jawad-pike-architecture-residential-extensions-london_dezeen_2364_col_1-1704x2473.jpg

    etch-house-by-fraher-architects_dezeen_2364_col_14-1704x2556.jpg

    stamford-road-pamphilon-architects-london-extensions-residential-architecure-houses-uk_dezeen_2364_col_1-1704x1136.jpg


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  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭dusteeroads


    You can't assume that the images posted are compliant. I would have installed continuous channels to all parts of such elevations


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    You can't assume that the images posted are compliant. I would have installed continuous channels to all parts of such elevations

    I just have noticed with a lot of new extensions that have access directly into the garden that they don't have the typical step that I used to see before.

    Could compliance be found by assuming that the 'ground' element in Part C is actually the base of the patio rather than the top? If they had grass running up to the building, they would be non-compliant but a paved surface allows them to keep the 'ground level' ~150-200mm below the finished level.


  • Subscribers Posts: 41,485 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    I just have noticed with a lot of new extensions that have access directly into the garden that they don't have the typical step that I used to see before.

    Could compliance be found by assuming that the 'ground' element in Part C is actually the base of the patio rather than the top? If they had grass running up to the building, they would be non-compliant but a paved surface allows them to keep the 'ground level' ~150-200mm below the finished level.

    youre getting caught up in the prima facia compliance of the TGDs

    The regulation C4 states
    "The floors, walls and roof of a building shall be so designed and constructed as to prevent the passage of moisture to the inside of the building or damage to the fabric of the building."

    and yes, theres nothing stopping you putting another DPC 150mm above the outside level if you feel it necessary.

    google 'hidden aco drainage channel' for plenty of examples of how those details in teh pics above can be done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    youre getting caught up in the prima facia compliance of the TGDs

    For things like a house extension, I wouldn't have thought you needed to go outside the TGDs. I thought Part M would have sorted it out and it seems like such a common detail that I'm surprised you would need a professional to sign-off on the compliance.
    sydthebeat wrote: »
    google 'hidden aco drainage channel' for plenty of examples of how those details in teh pics above can be done.

    Yes, this is a neat solution (at a price!). I can't see the slot in the above pictures but maybe they have this in place.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,139 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    For things like a house extension, I wouldn't have thought you needed to go outside the TGDs. I thought Part M would have sorted it out and it seems like such a common detail that I'm surprised you would need a professional to sign-off on the compliance.



    Yes, this is a neat solution (at a price!). I can't see the slot in the above pictures but maybe they have this in place.

    Lots of factors at play.

    Drainage

    Orientation

    Detailing..

    Is the cost of professional opinion/certification the issue?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 31,062 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Those discreet drainage slot solutions look like a blockage waiting to happen.

    I'd want something that didn't require pulling up paving to clear out, something like a simple box channel with a removable grille.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,724 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    The channel below the slot needs to be roddable for maintenance. Otherwise you are correct about it being a clog risk.

    But if it can be accessed for rodding or jetting it's not really much different to a buried sewer pipe.

    In my line of work I see the practical and functional being ignored in favour of the aesthetic and form much too often. There's no reason why the two cannot go hand in hand. In my opinion this is one of the key aspects of being a good designer.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,039 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Lumen wrote: »
    Those discreet drainage slot solutions look like a blockage waiting to happen.

    I'd want something that didn't require pulling up paving to clear out, something like a simple box channel with a removable grille.

    They come with an end piece that you can remove and rod or put s power washer into. I was looking into them when I done my garden recently.


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    BryanF wrote: »
    Lots of factors at play.
    Is the cost of professional opinion/certification the issue?

    No - just that level thresholds (Part M) seem to bring a lot of complication to a building (waterproofing and thermal break) and I thought I would find a lot more information online.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,547 ✭✭✭✭Poor Uncle Tom


    No - just that level thresholds (Part M) seem to bring a lot of complication to a building (waterproofing and thermal break) and I thought I would find a lot more information online.

    No real complication, drain across the entrance at the DPC / footpath edge.

    2rVMjms.jpg

    In the image, I've explained it a bit better. On the left, you have what I would consider to be the norm for DPC - external level 150mm below DPC. As you ramp up to the level access door, you will have a zone that is all below 150mm.

    It's all down to design, who says the ramp has to be in contact with the wall?


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    It's all down to design, who says the ramp has to be in contact with the wall?

    I just made the diagram to explain the area I was having trouble understanding - the zone between the external path being 150mm below finished floor level and the level threshold. I included images of the house extensions as this is another area where the 150mm DPC could be an issue.

    In summary, I had a good understanding of how the DPC system worked in external leafs before we had level thresholds. Now, there seems to be a grey area in projects with flush access to patios that don't appear to have drainage at the base of the wall.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,077 ✭✭✭rayjdav


    The "level" areas outside a building are not supposed to be flat. 1:50 (which is deemed to be "level") gradient to patios/paths will allow for run off away from the building thereby eliminating ponding at structure and need for drainage channels.


  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    rayjdav wrote: »
    The "level" areas outside a building are not supposed to be flat. 1:50 (which is deemed to be "level") gradient to patios/paths will allow for run off away from the building thereby eliminating ponding at structure and need for drainage channels.

    But is the DPC at finished floor level in the external leaf (+0mm to the external ground level) or at +150mm to the external ground level? This is the bit I'm trying to understand.

    So far in this thread, my understanding is that the DPC would remain at low level if you have a drainage channel, i.e. top of drainage channel and DPC would be at approximately the same level.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭dusteeroads


    It amuses me always to see such images published like you have VH ( I am not poking fun at you in ANY way ). You never see published shots of these design after 5 years of weathering when green slimy moss and prematurely degraded pointing will take their toll on "the concept". Even the glazed screen level with the the external grade will be hard to maintain as pictured - will be forever covered with a waterline of gritty rain splash. DPC at 150mm above GL plus render plinth level to it is not trendy. But is has it's simple virtue - of working.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,724 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    It amuses me always to see such images published like you have VH ( I am not poking fun at you in ANY way ). You never see published shots of these design after 5 years of weathering when green slimy moss and prematurely degraded pointing will take their toll on "the concept". Even the glazed screen level with the the external grade will be hard to maintain as pictured - will be forever covered with a waterline of gritty rain splash. DPC at 150mm above GL plus render plinth level to it is not trendy. But is has it's simple virtue - of working.

    If I could thank this post 10 times I would!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 60 ✭✭Victorian House


    You never see published shots of these design after 5 years of weathering when green slimy moss and prematurely degraded pointing will take their toll on "the concept"..

    I'd love if I could find pictures of these buildings after five years!


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