Neglected Bike back in use gets a buckle!

cormie

Hey folks,
I've owned my bike, a Giant SCR 3, for about 11 years. I actually bought it off a user here for €500, it cost about €1,200 new I believe and I got it in pretty good condition. I'm sorry to say that over the first 10 or so years, I rarely used it and I didn't give it much attention at all. In the last year, I've been using it far far more, I've started cycling everywhere, so it's easily gotten more use in the last year, than the 10 years before it.

Unfortunately when I gave it in for a service about 6 months ago, the guy could tell it had been neglected and I started taking better care of it since, but recently I got a bungee cord tangled up in the rear wheel as I came off a kerb and it snapped a spoke and put a bad buckle in the wheel.

I handed it on for a service and was told it needed a lot of work to get it back to good.

Block and Chain - 65
Bottom Bracket - 55
Rear Wheel - 250 for similar to what was on it (Mavic ksyrium elites) or 70 for a cheap one
Front pads - 12
Head Set bearings - 60
Cheap chain set - 70

So €340-500 to get it back to glory.

The guy was saying that the gears are probably slipping all the time, but this isn't the case, it was riding perfectly fine until the buckle. I don't ride competitively and I don't need a perfectly smooth ride. I'm giving it more attention lately and would much rather keep it than get a new one as I don't think it's necessary, not yet anyway.

They were saying about the bike to work scheme to get a new one on that, but I'm self employed and I'm not sure I'd be able to claim half of the money of a new bike back, but I don't think it's necessary, not yet anyway, I think there's still plenty of life in the bike.

Just wondering what folk here would do? I might just look for a second hand rear wheel and I'd guess once I sort that, I'll still get a lot of use from it still

magicbastarder

Is the bottom bracket showing any signs of issue, e.g. noise or looseness? And does the steering feel notchy? The headset bearings may just need a tighten and clean.

Post a photo of the teeth on the chainwheel. Assuming he's claiming it needs replacing due to excessive wear.

Wishbone Ash

cormie wrote: »

...The guy was saying that the gears are probably slipping all the time, but this isn't the case, it was riding perfectly fine until the buckle....

Gear slippage is much more noticeable when you're out of the saddle on a climb. If you were mainly riding on the flat you may not have noticed.

A worn chain will also wear the cassette and chain rings so unfortunately you'll probably have to replace them all.

You'll get a chain and cassette on line for about €40 and a single set of pads won't cost anything like €12 - I'd expect at least 2 pairs for that.

magicbastarder

Where are you based?
There have been a few sets of wheels for sale in the adverts section here recently. How many gears does the bike have?

cormie

Thanks a lot for the replies everyone! I'm based in Dun Laoghaire! Would it be better to get a wheel set and have both front and back the same, or it doesn't matter and I'd just need the back? The front one if fine, I believe the wheels on it are expensive, so may as well keep the front one?

Gears wise, it's got 8 sprockets at the back and 3 at the front, so I guess 24 speed?

So are the 3 sprockets at the front known as the "block and chain", with the chain, and then the "cheap chain set" he refers to is the chain and the sprocket at the back? So he's mentions the chain twice, but really all I need is the sprocket at the front, sprocket (cassette) at the back and then a chain?

I climb often enough on my cycles and have never had any slippage. There wouldn't be any major climbs, up Mount Merrion Ave, Mount Anville Road say on a cycle from Blackrock to Tallaght, and then back again, but performance of the bike is absolutely fine on these.

With regards the bottom bracket, when I actually went into the shop, he was showing me how "loose" it was, but there wasn't any play in it at all, he even said it himself when he went to show me with the bike on the ground, he said something like "oh it seemed more obvious when it was in the stand" but I had a feel myself and there doesn't seem to be any play in it or looseness or noise so I definitely think that'll be fine for another long time.

I've been perfectly happy with the bikes performance, I know I didn't give it the attention I should have, but by no means I think it's at the end of its life and I'm taking better care of it now. As long as it gets me from A-B safely and without too much annoyance (slippage etc, which isn't happening at all yet) I'm happy.

I'll try get a photo or video of it up soon

Mr. Grieves

The block is the cassette with 8 sprockets at the back. The good news is you'll be looking for 8 speed chain and cassette, which are cheap.

I'd keep using the front wheel and get a cheap or secondhand rear wheel. Sometimes it's easier (or similar price) to buy the pair but you can keep the new front wheel as a spare in that case.

Don't touch the bottom bracket unless you yourself notice play, sounds or roughness.

CJay1

Is you're based in DL. Can I ask what shop you took it to?

magicbastarder

mod note - No mentioning the shop, please.

But get a second opinion.

CJay1

magicbastarder wrote: »

mod note - No mentioning the shop, please.

But get a second opinion.

Apologies. Yeah, definitely get a second opinion.

magicbastarder

Also, you can bet a chain wear checker for under a tenner. If the wear is greater than 1%, you need a new chain and block. If it's 0.75%, you might just need a new chain. But eight speed chains are fairly durable I think.

Not sure what demands a wheel which takes an eight speed cassette would place on trying to source a replacement though - wheels of a similar quality these days are built to take 11 speed. Others here would know better than I would if that would cause problems.

Wishbone Ash

cormie wrote: »

... and then the "cheap chain set" he refers to is the chain and the sprocket at the back? So he's mentions the chain twice.....

Perhaps he meant the chain rings (i.e. the 3 rings at the front).

CramCycle

cormie wrote: »

Block and Chain - 65 20 +6
Bottom Bracket - 55 If its not causing issues, no need to change
Rear Wheel - 250 for similar to what was on it (Mavic ksyrium elites) or 70 for a cheap one - about right, actually quite reasonable, I would have thought a new one at about 75 online
Front pads - 12 - 2 sets for that
Head Set bearings - 60 Tighten
Cheap chain set - 7020

So 150euro if you can do it yourself or 225 if you drop into a shop and tell them what you want done. Some shops will also let you buy it elsewhere and pay them labour (between 60 to 100euro).

cdaly_

Did nobody mention the notion of replacing the broken spoke and truing the wheel? An awful lot cheaper than a whole new wheel...

CramCycle

cdaly_ wrote: »

Did nobody mention the notion of replacing the broken spoke and truing the wheel? An awful lot cheaper than a whole new wheel...

I presumed the buckle was too bad to fix by the description

cormie

Thanks for the replies everyone. The spoke itself seems to be fine, it's where the spoke attaches to the centre of the wheel that's snapped off and I had to tie the spoke to another spoke to stop it flopping about.

I've uploaded a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ueb5HQNWKp0

I forgot to record me turning the head set, but it's really only a little stiff.

Alanstrainor

cormie wrote: »

Thanks for the replies everyone. The spoke itself seems to be fine, it's where the spoke attaches to the centre of the wheel that's snapped off and I had to tie the spoke to another spoke to stop it flopping about.

I've uploaded a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ueb5HQNWKp0

I forgot to record me turning the head set, but it's really only a little stiff.

That buckle doesn't seem too bad. But the rim could be badly worn, and there could be concern that the rest of the spokes could go given the condition/age of the bike. If I were you I think I'd get a shop to replace the spoke, the chain and the brake pads (maybe brake cables too). That really is the bare minimum to get it back on the road. The cassette does look worn, as do the chain rings up front, but they might be serviceable for now.

I do think the shop was quite expensive, but their advice wasn't bad either. If you want the bike fully on the road it'll need a good bit of work. But it's possible you could get it moving again with the first bits, then you could see how you go and do the rest over time.

Wishbone Ash

cormie wrote: »

....I've uploaded a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ueb5HQNWKp0.....

Once I saw that you put the bike upside down, I had to turn it off! :eek::eek::eek:

cdaly_

cormie wrote: »

Thanks for the replies everyone. The spoke itself seems to be fine, it's where the spoke attaches to the centre of the wheel that's snapped off and I had to tie the spoke to another spoke to stop it flopping about.

I've uploaded a video here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ueb5HQNWKp0

I forgot to record me turning the head set, but it's really only a little stiff.

Yeah, that hub is dead. 1:59 to 2:16 in the video. The retaining point for the spoke is broken. You could go looking for a dead second hand wheel to take the hub from and rebuild but you'd want to be happy that the rim wasn't too worn to make it worthwhile.

cormie

Thanks for the replies Wishbone, what's wrong with having the bike upside down?

Thought it was the best way to show the parts mentioned


Alanstrainor, you seem to be suggesting to keep the back wheel and just get the spoke repaired, but I see you're thanking cdaly's post saying to look for a dead second hand wheel?

Would I not be better just going for a cheaper newer back wheel maybe?

I wonder at what price point I'd be better off just getting a new bike altogether? I mean if i could get it on the road and lasting me another year or 2 for €150 or so, great, but if it was going to cost me €500, maybe I'd be better off just getting a new bike altogether?

ford2600

cormie wrote: »

Thanks for the replies Wishbone, what's wrong with having the bike upside down?

Thought it was the best way to show the parts mentioned


Alanstrainor, you seem to be suggesting to keep the back wheel and just get the spoke repaired, but I see you're thanking cdaly's post saying to look for a dead second hand wheel?

Would I not be better just going for a cheaper newer back wheel maybe?

I wonder at what price point I'd be better off just getting a new bike altogether? I mean if i could get it on the road and lasting me another year or 2 for €150 or so, great, but if it was going to cost me €500, maybe I'd be better off just getting a new bike altogether?

You probably just need
*new chain
*new cassette
front rings look ok, if they skip with new chain then replace. Chain and cassette will cost you 25 combined.

Bottom bracket is a square taper; they are typically really durable and cheap. 15 tops.

I'd ask Bee Cycles or similar to replace parts plus his labour charge.

Ask him to build you a strong rim high spoke count wheel with easy to service hubs. A tiagra hub, with a rim like this
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/32-rigida-sputnik-700c-622-touring-rim-black/
could probably be put together for 120 or so.(20+25+30+50(build cost)) That way you are not buying some one elses trouble.


The rim above is heavy and strong. Light costs money and is often less durable.

CramCycle

ford2600 wrote: »

You probably just need
*new chain
*new cassette
front rings look ok, if they skip with new chain then replace. Chain and cassette will cost you 25 combined.

Maybe I am tired but I was going to say the opposite, cassette looks grand but the chainrings need a change,a long with the chain.

Revising my former costing:
Chain - 6
Rear Wheel - 70 for a cheap one (Shimano RS010 etc.)-
Front pads - 6 euro
Head Set bearings - Clean
Cheap chain set - 20

So 120 + labour (ie buy the parts and get someone else to do it if your not comfy). Somewhere between 50 to 100 for labour depending on how difficult things are to remove.

Wishbone Ash

cormie wrote: »

....Wishbone, what's wrong with having the bike upside down? ....

You'll have to familiarise yourself with "The Rules" http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/

Rule #49 // Keep the rubber side down.
It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn one’s steed upside down for any reason under any circumstances. Besides the risk of scratching the saddle, levers and stem, it is unprofessional and a disgrace to your loyal steed. The risk of the bike falling over is increased, wheel removal/replacement is made more difficult and your bidons will leak. The only reason a bicycle should ever be in an upside down position is during mid-rotation while crashing. This Rule also applies to upside down saddle-mount roof bars.23

Would you turn your van upside down?

Subcomandante Marcos

Buy a second hand wheel for cheap on adverts or the advert forum here.

I actually think the chain, cassette and chain rings are grand, give them a wash and index the gears and I'd nearly bet a tenner they've a fair bit of life in them. The bottom bracket is probably fine too,but as said if it needs to be replaced they are cheap as chips. Clean off the headset yourself, easy job, just check a youtube vidjo on it.
Breakpads, again, buy a set online for small money and put them on yourself.

If it's an old bike anyway and only being used for a commute keep your spend as low as possible, you could easily end up paying more to "fix" things than don't really need to be fixed than the bike would sell for if you tried to flog it.

cormie

Thanks again for all the input. I know a guy who used to be the mechanic for a bike shop in town and he's going to have a look at it for me thankfully!

He said "The issues you're describing are pretty much impossible to accurately diagnose without physically seeing the bike so no one online will be able to give sound advice really - it mainly just boils down to 'it depends'"

He'll look it over, advise what's needed then I'm gonna just order parts to his place and he'll fit them and I just pay him the labour

I was getting pretty confused with all the different things being advised here, or maybe it was the same things being advised, but different names and that given to the parts, so I was getting a bit overwhelmed :pac:



Wishbone, them rules ain't for me, I think they only apply if you wear lycra and use cleats :D

Is Bee Cycles a user here, or a shop somewhere?

Do you reckon building a wheel is a safer bet than just buying a second hand one? I mean if I could find an unused second hand one that someone took off their new bike to replace with a better one, maybe one like that would be a good idea

CramCycle

cormie wrote: »

Do you reckon building a wheel is a safer bet than just buying a second hand one? I mean if I could find an unused second hand one that someone took off their new bike to replace with a better one, maybe one like that would be a good idea

Yes, just make sure it is the right speed or compatible, your friend will set you straight on that.