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arc fault devices

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    #32
    Risteard81
    Registered Users Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    Thammer wrote: »
    From memory the UK domestic was 100 amp

    DP main isolating switch as there was different service types,TT etc
    It's either 60A, 80A or 100A and is essentially up to the individual DNO.

    Double pole main switch is because domestic is not under the supervision of electrically skilled or supervised persons so is irrespective of supply type. However this Regulation does not apply to a three-phase installation with a TN supply (Either TN-S or TN-C-S).


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    #33
    Andy From Sligo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,794 ✭✭✭✭Andy From Sligo


    sure anyway with the Irish system even if you have a single pole mains isolator switch it normally (on newer systems anyway) the next hardware in the CU is a RCCB anyway and thats douple pole so when you kill that switch your disconnecting the neutral anyway arent you to the rest of the house wiring?*

    *well apart from a split system - whereas the part of the CU is not protected by a RCCB still has neutral connected


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    #34
    EdgeCase
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,471 ✭✭✭EdgeCase


    What is the logic of the single pole main switch here?
    I'm assuming it's sticking rigidly to the idea what a neutral shouldn't be switched due to possible bonding implications ?

    (Although bonding would be done at the meter, so shouldn't be disconnected by the switch anyway)


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    #35
    Andy From Sligo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,794 ✭✭✭✭Andy From Sligo


    EdgeCase wrote: »
    What is the logic of the single pole main switch here?...

    its not because of this I am sure , but I have often thought with mechanical double pole switches like this with phase and neutral going into one switch like this if they fell to bits/disintegrated - you have a direct short there and in this case it would blow the main (you would hope) utility fuse next to the meter. - at least with one pole at least you have the neutral no-where near the live terminal

    but most people when they are working on something electrical in the home would feel more comfortable in the knowledge that both Live & Neutral are both disconnected when you turn of the mains switch (maybe most people believe they have killed both L and N when they turn off the mains switch in the CU in Ireland because there is no tell tale sign to most that its just a SP switch) so if they kill the mains switch and unscrew that bulb in the ceiling light pendant fitting and the bulb breaks they have only killed the live to the fitting and not the neutral (if the lighting circuit is not going though an RCCB in the CU - some split boards only put the RCCB on the sockets and dont have an RCCB on the lighting circuit)

    But yes - most probably the something to do with the earth system bonded to the neutral over here and dont want to put DP switch in because it would interrupt the neutral/earth bonding system

    Am sure an electrician on her could explain it away better than I can...


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    #36
    Thammer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 55 ✭✭Thammer


    EdgeCase wrote: »
    What is the logic of the single pole main switch here?
    I'm assuming it's sticking rigidly to the idea what a neutral shouldn't be switched due to possible bonding implications ?

    (Although bonding would be done at the meter, so shouldn't be disconnected by the switch anyway)

    It's because there's no need to switch it for main isolation here as the neutral is reliably at earth potential

    At the appliance end it's safer for the consumer to switch both poles and convenient for installation testing


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    #37
    Andy From Sligo
    Registered Users Posts: 11,794 ✭✭✭✭Andy From Sligo


    Thammer wrote: »
    It's because there's no need to switch it for main isolation here as the neutral is reliably at earth potential

    At the appliance end it's safer for the consumer to switch both poles and convenient for installation testing

    not all switches on all 13a sockets are DP though are they - 20a spurs are normally DP I think .. and then light switches are SP


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    #38
    EdgeCase
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,471 ✭✭✭EdgeCase


    No they’re generally only DP if it’s specifically mentioned. The switches are entirely optional too. Some of the better brands like MK definitely use DP switching but I certainly wouldn’t rely on all 13 amp sockets cutting both poles and also I wouldn’t be entirely convinced that they’re always reliably wired in the correct polarity either.

    If you’re working on something - the plug should be pulled out of the wall socket entirely.


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