Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV

Shefwedfan

kanuseeme wrote: »

It starts in battery mode, on my 151 gh3, you can pick save, which will keep the battery at its current level, it will do 35 km at 80 km,

The air con on mine runs off the battery, range drops as a result, turning on the heater will start the engine on gh3, but as far as I know not on the other models, range reduced with them also.

yesterday I drove 32km in a hilly area, used 4% petrol on the trip,

Try the BMW 225e, only found out about it last night, prices seem good, range is less.

Do you have the option on the car to pre-heat/pre-cool if you set leave time?

Shefwedfan

https://www.smithygarage-mitsubishi.co.uk/new-cars/outlander/phev/battery-warranty

The rest of the components on the car only has a 5 year/62k miles warranty. That's why you see all the Irish dealers bringing in Outlanders with plus 62k miles. They are buying cheap in UK because the price drops off a cliff after 62k miles.

No idea on the rest in regards to warranty moving, I talked to Electric autos before and as far as he was aware it would be valid. The battery is not going to go on these, unless you are extremely unlucky.

kanuseeme

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Do you have the option on the car to pre-heat/pre-cool if you set leave time?

Not on mine, other versions you need to check, the other guys car is a UK import, there is the possibility that its not covered by Mitsubishi warranty because its not sold originally by a Mitsubishi dealer.

New vehicles that have not been supplied in the UK by an authorised Mitsubishi Motors Dealer and sourced through the Colt Car Company Limited may not benefit from this warranty.

https://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.uk/owners/warranty

If the dealer here is going to stand by it, no harm. I just said check.

stimpson

You can preheat/cool on GX4 and up. The downside is that there is a bug in the timer, so if you use the car timer to charge on night rate and the heat timer to preheat in the morning then your preheat comes from the battery. I use the timer on the Zappi and it works fine - hot (or cool) car in 20 minutes and full battery.

Looking at your numbers you should be fine and use very little ICE. If you don't have the full range, then favour save move on the faster roads and EV in town. I work across town and often go through town instead of M50 as it's shorter distance and the stop/go traffic suits EV much better. I arrive in work with ~45% of battery left after the M50, but 70-75% if I go through town.

rolion

I understood that the car doesnt have the same functionality in respect to "remote access" as a LEAF, where is running over a 3G mobile data network, available EU wide.

You have connection to car ONLY if your end device and the car is on the same wireless network.
That means only at home, on same home wifi ?!!

stimpson

rolion wrote: »

I understood that the car doesnt have the same functionality in respect to "remote access" as a LEAF, where is running over a 3G mobile data network, available EU wide.

You have connection to car ONLY if your end device and the car is on the same wireless network.
That means only at home, on same home wifi ?!!

Not quite. It has its own WiFi network so you need to be in range and connect to it. It’s not a great solution TBH but it’s good enough for setting timer: etc. Some people have extended it using a 3G phone in the car but I can access it when sitting on the couch so haven’t been too pushed.

Dev1234

stimpson wrote: »

You can preheat/cool on GX4 and up. The downside is that there is a bug in the timer, so if you use the car timer to charge on night rate and the heat timer to preheat in the morning then your preheat comes from the battery. I use the timer on the Zappi and it works fine - hot (or cool) car in 20 minutes and full battery.

How do you set the timer on the Zappi stimpson? I had a quick look at the manual there and it wasnt jumping out at me.

Shefwedfan

stimpson wrote: »

You can preheat/cool on GX4 and up. The downside is that there is a bug in the timer, so if you use the car timer to charge on night rate and the heat timer to preheat in the morning then your preheat comes from the battery. I use the timer on the Zappi and it works fine - hot (or cool) car in 20 minutes and full battery.

Looking at your numbers you should be fine and use very little ICE. If you don't have the full range, then favour save move on the faster roads and EV in town. I work across town and often go through town instead of M50 as it's shorter distance and the stop/go traffic suits EV much better. I arrive in work with ~45% of battery left after the M50, but 70-75% if I go through town.

Any reason why they are not fixing the bug?


Not sure how you use the Zappi? so you charge the car at nightime and then when preheat comes on do you start charging again? sorry I know I am probably been stupid....

rolion

I don't think is a bug !

In my L24 I had similar "bug".
The pre-heating timer works only if the battery level is over 80%.
Otherwise, it will not run.
So I had to connect the cable, setup the charging from the charger interface and then, at pre-heat time, the heater will run and then after it finishes and time left, recharge the battery back to right levels.

See pictures H E R E.

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

I don't think is a bug !

In my L24 I had similar "bug".
The pre-heating timer works only if the battery level is over 80%.
Otherwise, it will not run.
So I had to connect the cable, setup the charging from the charger interface and then, at pre-heat time, the heater will run and then after it finishes and time left, recharge the battery back to right levels.

See pictures H E R E.

That’s a lot of messing, with the EGolf it just charges and then preheats

stimpson

Dev1234 wrote: »

How do you set the timer on the Zappi stimpson? I had a quick look at the manual there and it wasnt jumping out at me.

It’s called boost timer in the manual.

rolion wrote: »

I don't think is a bug !

In my L24 I had similar "bug".
The pre-heating timer works only if the battery level is over 80%.
Otherwise, it will not run.
So I had to connect the cable, setup the charging from the charger interface and then, at pre-heat time, the heater will run and then after it finishes and time left, recharge the battery back to right levels.

See pictures H E R E.

It’s a bug alright. You can calculate how much it loses as the heater is 3.8kW. If you run it for 30 mins you lose 1.9 kWh of charge.

The trick is to set a boost timer to finish at say, 6am. Then another one to run from 6:15 to 8AM, and have the cars heater timer set to finish at 8AM. When you get in the car it will be toasty and have a full battery.

smokybacon

kanuseeme wrote: »

Not on mine, other versions you need to check, the other guys car is a UK import, there is the possibility that its not covered by Mitsubishi warranty because its not sold originally by a Mitsubishi dealer.

New vehicles that have not been supplied in the UK by an authorised Mitsubishi Motors Dealer and sourced through the Colt Car Company Limited may not benefit from this warranty.

https://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.uk/owners/warranty

If the dealer here is going to stand by it, no harm. I just said check.

Mine is a uk 2015. From 1 Jan 2015 became the 5 year Warranty. Mutsu irl warranty cover it. They confirmed it. It had a hand break recall. No other issues. It is immaculate.
BUT it is for sale and is cheapest on web and absolutely no interest for id say a month.

Shefwedfan

smokybacon wrote: »

Mine is a uk 2015. From 1 Jan 2015 became the 5 year Warranty. Mutsu irl warranty cover it. They confirmed it. It had a hand break recall. No other issues. It is immaculate.
BUT it is for sale and is cheapest on web and absolutely no interest for id say a month.

How much? Which version?

rolion

Is correct to say that the 3.7KW on-board charger can be a pain the battery, sometimes !?
Even if you use the right cable or a faster charger unit, the car still goes at 3.7 !?
Thanks

kanuseeme

its just as fast as 3.6 kW on the leaf or fluenze which had no rapid charging option only battery swap, at least you can start your engine and go, pure EV's need to wait till the charge suits the range they need.

Correct, only way to decrease charging time is to use a rapid charger and thats limited to 17 kw to 22 kWh so I am told

rolion

kanuseeme wrote: »

its just as fast as 3.6 kW on the leaf or fluenze which had no rapid charging option only battery swap, at least you can start your engine and go, pure EV's need to wait till the charge suits the range they need.

Correct, only way to decrease charging time is to use a rapid charger and thats limited to 17 kw to 22 kWh so I am told

Thanks.
And the ice engine "chages" the battery while running, how's that god or bad, in terms of a owner' words ?

kanuseeme

It can, I have not figured the best way, whether to let it do its own hybrid thing, press charge or save,
it is more economical to save the battery for urban driving, last trip I done to the airport and back was 320 km got 45 mpg or 6.277 L/100 km
I left with a full charge and when the engine came on, I pressed charge and then used it that when i got 15 km range and pressed charge again, it was slow to charge, doing 120 kmph probably means not a lot left over for charging.

Rapid charged in Dublin airport while getting MacDonalds and straight home, did not bother much just set the cruise control and drove.

Main advantage is when you do 50 km commutes and charge and back home.

Shefwedfan

Ok after a weekend test drive in rav4 the result is 6.8ltr/100km. Now when I done a similar test drive I got 7.6-7.8ltr so as I figured my foot is rather heavy

Just wondering what people are getting in outlander?

stimpson

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok after a weekend test drive in rav4 the result is 6.8ltr/100km. Now when I done a similar test drive I got 7.6-7.8ltr so as I figured my foot is rather heavy

Just wondering what people are getting in outlander?

With no charge it will probably do 7.5l/100. But when the first 35km is practically free, it has an impact on your total mpg. Today I drive Dublin to Navan and back, with an 80% charge in Navan. It returned 68mpg = 4.1l/100km. On a longer journey it would be worse. On a shorter one it would be better.

rolion

PHEV explained:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4I5SkNT6UY

PHEV naked:

https://youtu.be/rfE9C3OediU



From looking at this videos...is a 4 x 4 only on EV mode not on the ICE motor !??

stimpson

rolion wrote: »

PHEV explained:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4I5SkNT6UY

PHEV naked:

https://youtu.be/rfE9C3OediU



From looking at this videos...is a 4 x 4 only on EV mode not on the ICE motor !??

It’s almost always in EV mode. Even when the engine kicks in it’s charging the battery to run the motors. It’s only over 125kph that it clutches into the drivetrain and drives the front wheels.

One advantage is that you have 4x4 without a prop shaft and associated losses/servicing. Another is that the drive can be controlled by software, so you just have a button for a locking diff and normally the car will distribute drive between the axles as it sees fit. It’s a pretty good system.

og2k7

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok after a weekend test drive in rav4 the result is 6.8ltr/100km. Now when I done a similar test drive I got 7.6-7.8ltr so as I figured my foot is rather heavy

Just wondering what people are getting in outlander?

I get regularly 40-44 mpg - calculates 5.88036 L/100 or better - did 600miles with no charging and 5 passengers when traveling around

Normally dont even touch the petrol so got the buy petrol alert in order to mix the old with new

stimpson

og2k7 wrote: »

I get regularly 40-44 mpg - calculates 5.88036 L/100 or better - did 600miles with no charging and 5 passengers when traveling around

Normally dont even touch the petrol so got the buy petrol alert in order to mix the old with new

That’s impressive. You mustn’t have a heavy right foot.

Vizzy

What cost are ye factoring in for a full charge ?

The onboard calculator is telling me about €1.60 but I reckon that this is a bit low ( My electricity cost is 17.5c per unit)

If the €1.60 is correct, then I did 194 miles(310km) on €10.30 of petrol and €9.16 of electricity or €0.10 per mile(€0.16 per km)

stimpson

Vizzy wrote: »

What cost are ye factoring in for a full charge ?

The onboard calculator is telling me about €1.60 but I reckon that this is a bit low ( My electricity cost is 17.5c per unit)

If the €1.60 is correct, then I did 194 miles(310km) on €10.30 of petrol and €9.16 of electricity or €0.10 per mile(€0.16 per km)

I have night rate. Paying 8.5c a unit, so a full charge is less than a euro. If you are using a full charge per day then it probably makes sense to switch to night rate.

Shefwedfan

Vizzy wrote: »

What cost are ye factoring in for a full charge ?

The onboard calculator is telling me about €1.60 but I reckon that this is a bit low ( My electricity cost is 17.5c per unit)

If the €1.60 is correct, then I did 194 miles(310km) on €10.30 of petrol and €9.16 of electricity or €0.10 per mile(€0.16 per km)

Do you not use night rate electricity?

Vizzy

stimpson wrote: »

I have night rate. Paying 8.5c a unit, so a full charge is less than a euro. If you are using a full charge per day then it probably makes sense to switch to night rate.

Not using night rate. I presume that I would pay a premium for night rate as most of my electricity usage would be from 9.00am to say 9.00 pm, with only lights and a TV outside these hours.

Charging the car about every 1.5 days( if that makes sense), full charge on one night and probably about a half charge the next night.

Does the cost of €1.60 seem correct based on 17.5c per unit

Shefwedfan

Vizzy wrote: »

Not using night rate. I presume that I would pay a premium for night rate as most of my electricity usage would be from 9.00am to say 9.00 pm, with only lights and a TV outside these hours.

Charging the car about every 1.5 days( if that makes sense), full charge on one night and probably about a half charge the next night.

Does the cost of €1.60 seem correct based on 17.5c per unit

Yes you pay more standing charge but if you have timers on white good(washing machine/dish washer) then I switched those over to nighttime....


Also night rate run till 9 during summer....this means all the showers etc in the morning are done on night rate....I am running at a 50/50 average now so it makes sense.....


It must be noted I have been charging a 26kWh battery at night as well...the Outlander has 11kWh is I remember correctly

stimpson

Vizzy wrote: »

Not using night rate. I presume that I would pay a premium for night rate as most of my electricity usage would be from 9.00am to say 9.00 pm, with only lights and a TV outside these hours.

Charging the car about every 1.5 days( if that makes sense), full charge on one night and probably about a half charge the next night.

Does the cost of €1.60 seem correct based on 17.5c per unit

Sounds about right. It’s approx 10kWh for a full charge.

You should check your usage. On a day you’re not charging the car look at your meter at 8AM. Note down the reading. Do it again at midnight. Now you can see how many units you are using during the day. Now you can calculate the cost saving by charging the car at night and check it against the higher standing charge for night rate.

Shefwedfan

Last question, the guys at garage said the little flappy paddles behind the steering was to change gear.....but watching a review of the 2019 and it mentions it is to change regen? did they swap for the 2019 model or is the salesman wrong?

Mike9832

stimpson wrote: »

Sounds about right. It’s approx 10kWh for a full charge.

You should check your usage. On a day you’re not charging the car look at your meter at 8AM. Note down the reading. Do it again at midnight. Now you can see how many units you are using during the day. Now you can calculate the cost saving by charging the car at night and check it against the higher standing charge for night rate.

Must be pretty heavy on juice?

More than 30kWh/100km with those figures

stimpson

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Last question, the guys at garage said the little flappy paddles behind the steering was to change gear.....but watching a review of the 2019 and it mentions it is to change regen? did they swap for the 2019 model or is the salesman wrong?

Salesmen know SFA. There are no gears. It’s for setting regen levels.

DublinDilbert

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Last question, the guys at garage said the little flappy paddles behind the steering was to change gear.....but watching a review of the 2019 and it mentions it is to change regen? did they swap for the 2019 model or is the salesman wrong?

Salesman is wrong. Its to increase/decrease the level of regeneration from the electric motor when you take your foot off the accelerator.

Shefwedfan

I would be switching rates, go to www.bonkers.ie and see ratesand what suits you best.....15.20 available at the moment,......

duploelabs

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Last question, the guys at garage said the little flappy paddles behind the steering was to change gear.....but watching a review of the 2019 and it mentions it is to change regen? did they swap for the 2019 model or is the salesman wrong?

Salesman is wrong, they're for regen amount

Shefwedfan

I love a bit of regen so even better if I can switch up & down.....it is the wifes car so she was driving so I couldn't really start messing around....

Any idea's if any of the garages allow a weekend test drive on them? she would like to do her trip to work & back and see what it would do......

duploelabs

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I love a bit of regen so even better if I can switch up & down.....it is the wifes car so she was driving so I couldn't really start messing around....

Any idea's if any of the garages allow a weekend test drive on them? she would like to do her trip to work & back and see what it would do......

I'd be interested too about the weekend test, got a once around the block with Grace and Harvey in Glasthule but that really wasn't enough

kanuseeme

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Last question, the guys at garage said the little flappy paddles behind the steering was to change gear.....but watching a review of the 2019 and it mentions it is to change regen? did they swap for the 2019 model or is the salesman wrong?

yes regen only.

On mine (2015) it starts on B2 akin to the regen on the honda/lexus, when you flap up or down, it will stay on that level untill you use cruise control then it will go into B2 again, cancel cruise it stays in B2.
more flapping to B5 and its as good as breaking, all of this is depending on battery level, there is no regen if the battery is full, it can catch you out.
I believe there is no brake light when using regen.
Using the brake pedal will I believe cycle through the regen levels till you need to stop and then its break pads.
you can go to B3 by using the gear stick, by pulling down once, pull again it goes to B5, use the steering wheel paddle to get back to B0

biko

Yes, Outlander PHEV paddles were never for gears, the salesman got that wrong (prob because they are usually for gears in other cars)

When using regen to brake there is no brake lights illuminated.

n97 mini

Shefwedfan wrote: »

I would be switching rates, go to www.bonkers.ie and see ratesand what suits you best.....15.20 available at the moment,......

What's the standing charge though? It's probably high. The higher ones are around double the lower (which in turn have higher unit rates. Really need to use a calculator. Our annual usage is around 3600 units give or take, with a 52/48 night/day split. The lowest standing charge and highest unit rate worked out cheapest for us, especially as there was also 150 euro cashback.

Now that I've added a few solar panels I've reduced the day usage too, so we're looking at 65/35 ratio or thereabouts.

biko

Guys, this thread is intended as info about the Mitsibishi Outlander PHEV itself, not the charging options that you can discuss in a home charging thread.

rolion

Hi happy owners,

Got finance approved for a car....max in lower €20k_ish
However, the way things were handled,the car has to be on Irish plates.
Can't buy one from UK... hmm.
Booked tickets to pick this one H E R E.

I am looking around on the local market with Irish plates ... and im really confused of the low range of cars availble in model series GX4 or GX5 HS models... most of them are low specs 3 and 4. Asked dealers,explained honestly that the others ones are too expensive...

OK, question to you, is it really important,nice,desired,fussy to have the "s" in the 4 model ? Does the "s" safety functionality makes a real sense ??
I know what that "s" series of buttons / functionality is and i feel like if i don't get it, i will not enjoy the car...

Thanks.

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

Hi happy owners,

Got finance approved for a car....max in lower €20k_ish
However, the way things were handled,the car has to be on Irish plates.
Can't buy one from UK... hmm.
Booked tickets to pick this one H E R E.

I am looking around on the local market with Irish plates ... and im really confused of the low range of cars availble in model series GX4 or GX5 HS models... most of them are low specs 3 and 4. Asked dealers,explained honestly that the others ones are too expensive...

OK, question to you, is it really important,nice,desired,fussy to have the "s" in the 4 model ? Does the "s" safety functionality makes a real sense ??
I know what that "s" series of buttons / functionality is and i feel like if i don't get it, i will not enjoy the car...

Thanks.

Electric autos have a lovely one....would buy myself if I could sell on the Galaxy :mad:


I always use parkers to get spec


https://www.parkers.co.uk/mitsubishi/outlander/estate-2012/specs/


Both seem to offer the exact same spec based onthat.....no idea what the S stands for....I would ring Phil

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

Hi happy owners,

Got finance approved for a car....max in lower €20k_ish
However, the way things were handled,the car has to be on Irish plates.
Can't buy one from UK... hmm.
Booked tickets to pick this one H E R E.

I am looking around on the local market with Irish plates ... and im really confused of the low range of cars availble in model series GX4 or GX5 HS models... most of them are low specs 3 and 4. Asked dealers,explained honestly that the others ones are too expensive...

OK, question to you, is it really important,nice,desired,fussy to have the "s" in the 4 model ? Does the "s" safety functionality makes a real sense ??
I know what that "s" series of buttons / functionality is and i feel like if i don't get it, i will not enjoy the car...

Thanks.

The reason why they have the lower spec is because they can buy high mileage/low spec Outlanders cheap in the auctions in the UK. The Outlander is the biggest seller new in the UK. So when it comes to second hand if the mileage is over 64k miles it is outside warranty. If it is lower spec then they are cheap


So the dealers are picking up cheap, whacking on a huge margin and then flogging in Ireland. Most buyers in Ireland are coming from cars which lack any spec at all. Air con and cruise control is seen as a huge jump and the people are selling.



It's all about huge margin for the dealers. Means the standard Irish buyer is getting a s**t deal. I hate to say it too many times but it;s worth talking to Phil....he can order in exactly what you need from supplier in UK....of course you are paying Phil a margin but it is worth it compared to some other dealers....


Now Next Eco cars and other dealers do the same so price around

rolion

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Electric autos have a lovely one....would buy myself if I could sell on the Galaxy :mad:


I always use parkers to get spec


https://www.parkers.co.uk/mitsubishi/outlander/estate-2012/specs/


Both seem to offer the exact same spec based onthat.....no idea what the S stands for....I would ring Phil

Called them... spoke with Sinead or Siobhan.
She was nice and calm, explained back to me my options,many thanks.
Phil was "between" 2 customers and i felt he was ,how can i say it...busy !
Asked to check the battery status,capacity and SOC and been told to don't listen to all the guys online,especially on boards.ie ... ahahhaaa

That model is a 2015,older than 2016 but at 2016 prices...is th eonly GX4HS in Ireland available.
Also,i think the major upgrade was performed in 2016 and not in 2015 models.

The "s" stands for Safety...behind the right side of the wheel is a row with lots of buttons. Lane Assist, Adaptive Cruise Control and Overtaking something dead angle !?
On the missing "s" models they are blank.

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

Called them... spoke with Sinead or Siobhan.
She was nice and calm, explained back to me my options,many thanks.
Phil was "between" 2 customers and i felt he was ,how can i say it...busy !
Asked to check the battery status,capacity and SOC and been told to don't listen to all the guys online,especially on boards.ie ... ahahhaaa

That model is a 2015,older than 2016 but at 2016 prices...is th eonly GX4HS in Ireland available.
Also,i think the major upgrade was performed in 2016 and not in 2015 models.

The "s" stands for Safety...behind the right side of the wheel is a row with lots of buttons. Lane Assist, Adaptive Cruise Control and Overtaking something dead angle !?
On the missing "s" models they are blank

Oh right, I need an S model so :P

It's Siobhan, she is lovely. They know about me annoying their head about cars :-)



From what I know, Phil sent me a vid but I have to watch yet, its the newer model so would be the same as a 2016. That's what I think Phil said....

rolion

Shefwedfan wrote: »

The reason why they have the lower spec is because they can buy high mileage/low spec Outlanders cheap in the auctions in the UK. The Outlander is the biggest seller new in the UK. So when it comes to second hand if the mileage is over 64k miles it is outside warranty. If it is lower spec then they are cheap


So the dealers are picking up cheap, whacking on a huge margin and then flogging in Ireland. Most buyers in Ireland are coming from cars which lack any spec at all. Air con and cruise control is seen as a huge jump and the people are selling.



It's all about huge margin for the dealers. Means the standard Irish buyer is getting a s**t deal. I hate to say it too many times but it;s worth talking to Phil....he can order in exactly what you need from supplier in UK....of course you are paying Phil a margin but it is worth it compared to some other dealers....


Now Next Eco cars and other dealers do the same so price around

Siobhan explained how AIB finance works,in the way that car will be paid only on Irish plates and with pro-forma invoice or receipt. They cannot buy the car from UK and then register it and sell it to me and AIB will pay Electric Autos.
Even if i found a garage that for a deposit upfront they will bring my chosen car,register/VRT/NCT and then sell it to me and they gets the money from AIB.

That means,i am restricted or limited to local market...

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

Siobhan explained how AIB finance works,in the way that car will be paid only on Irish plates and with pro-forma invoice or receipt. They cannot buy the car from UK and then register it and sell it to me and AIB will pay Electric Autos.
Even if i found a garage that for a deposit upfront they will bring my chosen car,register/VRT/NCT and then sell it to me and they gets the money from AIB.

That means,i am restricted or limited to local market...

Irish banks


You could try avant card or some of those, they have good rates and I would hope not so limited

rolion

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Irish banks


You could try avant card or some of those, they have good rates and I would hope not so limited

No,i think is the way my loan has been processed.
Is out of the Outlander topic sorry, but i think becasue is a business loan,AIB has done work on a hire & purchase (aka lease) rather than car cash loan. Car stay under their name until fully paid opposite with cash loan when you own the car. Hope makes sense,just got some replies in the morning so i am still digesting it myself here...

While everyone is in business to make a profit,i feel that is a huge discrepancies in prices,here compared to UK.
I am confident to say is a up to €5,000 net profit on some dealers and on some cars ! And thats for few effective hours of work.

Shefwedfan

rolion wrote: »

No,i think is the way my loan has been processed.
Is out of the Outlander topic sorry, but i think becasue is a business loan,AIB has done work on a hire & purchase (aka lease) rather than car cash loan. Car stay under their name until fully paid opposite with cash loan when you own the car. Hope makes sense,just got some replies in the morning so i am still digesting it myself here...

While everyone is in business to make a profit,i feel that is a huge discrepancies in prices,here compared to UK.
I am confident to say is a up to €5,000 net profit on some dealers and on some cars ! And thats for few effective hours of work.

No idea's on loan....I just fire in a number and most times they come back and say yes Sir Shefwedfan :-)



Some Irish dealers are buying the Outlanders at circa 10k and have them up over here at 18k and more. You will see a lot of low spec and high mileage.



Huge mark up. Could you buy from one of those import companies,