Asus G20ci - power problem

podgeandrodge

Anyone with an Asus G20ci Rog? Having power problem, supply (180w+230w) was checked and still delivering power. So could be power button but, having opened the case, it's like Fort knox inside so while I got the 1080 card out which hides the 2 power inputs, and they seem OK, the cpu etc hides access to behind the power button so I can't check there.

So, any ASUS maestros out there, or advice re an Asus servicer?

ED E

Wow, thats a bit of a cludge what they did with the dual external PSUs. C'mon ASUS.


None of the pictures are good enough to determine remotely but one of the cables on the motherobard, a thin little on, will be the power switch. Its physically away from the front USB/mic etc so it'll probably be on its own.

If you can find the header it connects to and are sure then shorting the two pins with a screwdriver will be the same as pressing on. That'll rule in/out the switch.

smuggler.ie

Possibly you have seen these already:
[Guide] Here is the G20 (CB) Teardown
Asus Rog G20ci review

podgeandrodge

ED E wrote: »

Wow, thats a bit of a cludge what they did with the dual external PSUs. C'mon ASUS.


None of the pictures are good enough to determine remotely but one of the cables on the motherobard, a thin little on, will be the power switch. Its physically away from the front USB/mic etc so it'll probably be on its own.

If you can find the header it connects to and are sure then shorting the two pins with a screwdriver will be the same as pressing on. That'll rule in/out the switch.

smuggler.ie wrote: »

Possibly you have seen these already:
[Guide] Here is the G20 (CB) Teardown
Asus Rog G20ci review

Thanks lads. I had given up and arranged with Asus to do an out of warranty repair but they're charging €50 to pick it up alone with an unknown bill for repair, it's 2 weeks out of warranty

So I still have the pc and had got to Stage 11 of the Rog guide (without the guide!) posted by Smuggler before nerves overtook and I closed it.

Gonna use ED E's advice and rest of Rog guide and go for it. Way I'm looking at it now is that even if I destroy the pc, I still have a 1080 graphics card, 256 ssd, 16gig memory and 2tb drive to play with.

And my data is probably safer with me than Asus.

podgeandrodge

This is a screenshot from the Web of the corner behind the power button.. Thoughts?

podgeandrodge

And another shot from another video. Still haven't reopened myself!

smuggler.ie

It appear that you have got an opportunity to be The First who will make nice tutorial how to troubleshoot power issues on Asus G20ci Rog

podgeandrodge

Yes, more like I'll be the first to show how NOT to do it

smuggler.ie

Definition of

trial and error
: a finding out of the best way to reach a desired result or a correct solution by trying out one or more ways or means and by noting and eliminating errors or causes of failure

also : the trying of one thing or another until something succeeds

Some one has to be first....

podgeandrodge

OK I have stripped down to power cable (and will probably never fit it back together:D

podgeandrodge

This is it... Looks like small print says power led and power button. ED E's suggestion makes me nervous though with electricity on and inserting screwdrivers! I'm no electrician!!

smuggler.ie

Post some pics here, also if available motherboard model - who know, might be there is some pin-out on G search available.
Any way, power switch wont have more than 12v, more likely 5v or even 3.3v

podgeandrodge

Here :

podgeandrodge

Another

podgeandrodge

And wider pic, this sure is a fun way to mess with a €1,300 computer! Not!

smuggler.ie

Guessing Green/White pair

podgeandrodge

yep, me too. I tried crossing the 2 pins with a screwdriver (i.e. tried to get metal to cover both pins) and nothing at all. Tried a few of them actually and not a thing.

podgeandrodge

this makes me wonder is there something at the other end where the 2 power inputs (180 + 230) go into the GPU. Or at least one goes to the GPU as it powers it, the other one wings it's way across the motherboard to those pins I guess...

smuggler.ie

Well, you have second pair of pins to test.
Looking at my boards here(as well as images on G) despite print on your board, green - PWR_LED, red - PWR_SW

smuggler.ie

Obviously you want rest of components connected as much as possible.
First sign of "life" usually would be fans. Be careful with that "heavy" connector block next

And be ready to pull power cord OUT if it starts - no CPU fans blowing heat-sink

podgeandrodge

I'm defeated. GPU out now and out of ideas.
I need someone near Terenure to drop by and help!
The 2 power inputs are on the top left side.

podgeandrodge

smuggler.ie wrote: »

Well, you have second pair of pins to test.
Looking at my boards here(as well as images on G) despite print on your board, green - PWR_LED, red - PWR_SW

Tried 2nd set (assuming I'm correct in simply getting the tip of the screwdriver to touch both pins)

smuggler.ie

Wouldn't mind, but i am ~100km away from Terenure.
It is your call of course, and if not feel confident better leave to some one with knowledge/experience.
You correct assuming "shorting" two pins activates PC.


Sorry for asking, but from your last pic, cant see power supply near by. You had power connected to the PC on testing don't you?

podgeandrodge

smuggler.ie wrote: »

Well, you have second pair of pins to test.
Looking at my boards here(as well as images on G) despite print on your board, green - PWR_LED, red - PWR_SW

Yep, but you're correct to ask, that would be typical! I unplugged the leads afterwards as I was poking around inside!

smuggler.ie

One more...
How you tested your PSU unit?

Usually, if plugged to the wall, even if PC is powered down, USB ports still have power - can you confirm this. Phone charger should work.

podgeandrodge

smuggler.ie wrote: »

One more...
How you tested your PSU unit?

Usually, if plugged to the wall, even if PC is powered down, USB ports still have power - can you confirm this. Phone charger should work.

I'll try that tomorrow Smuggler thanks, appreciate it.

ED E

podgeandrodge wrote: »

was checked and still delivering power

Mind me asking how it was checked?

smuggler.ie

If simple multi-meter available, front panel connector could be checked for "continuity" on power button side. LED pins should have continuity depending on polarity, power switch pins should get on depressing button.

podgeandrodge

ED E wrote: »

Mind me asking how it was checked?

Someone I know with access to an electrician. But I'm now beginning to think second opinion necessary, unless it's rare that psu's fail.

Will try usb later as smuggler suggested.

Thanks

smuggler.ie

podgeandrodge wrote: »

Someone I know with access to an electrician. But I'm now beginning to think second opinion necessary, unless it's rare that psu's fail.

Will try usb later as smuggler suggested.

Thanks

Right....
All suggested steps above were based on "(PSU)was checked and still delivering power"


You might like to start from scratch...
1. Wall socket has power. Obvious , but please confirm.
2. Wall plug has fuse(marked on plug or fuse itself) rated 13/10/??A - to be confirmed "good". Replace with same rating if needed.
3. PSU box itself provide output power - ratings should be on label on the PSU box.
4. "USB port power" - might be not accurate as on some MoBo can be disabled(by default or manually) within BIOS/UEFI menu or might be not supported. If power present on USB port(s), could indicate that PSU is OK, but problem further down the chain.
5. If USB power present - switch "continuity" to be tested.
6. If switch, USB and PSU OK - back to issues on board itself - might be beyond repair, MoBo replacement needed.


Comeback with as much info as you can.

ED E

You're troubleshooting this as if the PSU is the PSU, but its not really.

This is like a laptop and the external PSUs are just what would normally be called chargers. If they read 15/17/19v or whatever the chances of them malfunctioning are near zero. Tend to be very binary.


Assuming there's no board power I'd be going straight to the internal power circuits. (Ignore the circles)


You'd need somebody with a little experience to check theres the correct DCV at certain points. Assuming there is, more troubleshooting. If there isn't then its an expensive repair that you may have trouble finding somebody to take on.