Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Immersion wiring question

Options
  • 05-11-2018 5:45pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭


    I'm replacing my old immersion switch

    GnWytEZh.jpg

    with this new one

    rM9QJDnh.jpg

    and was wondering if I need to do anything different with regards to the wiring?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Looking at that, the original wiring is incorrect. Looks like both bath and sink are on together when the bath/sink selector is in one of its positions.


    What was the reason for replacing?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭Squaredude


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Looking at that, the original wiring is incorrect. Looks like both bath and sink are on together when the bath/sink selector is in one of its positions.


    What was the reason for replacing?
    Switch started acting up and needed to be turned on and off a few times before it would come on and now it's not coming on at all. Any help would be appreciated


  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭Randyleprechaun


    Could do with seeing clearer picture of old switch, it looks as if it's connected totally wrong to me


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭Squaredude


    Could do with seeing clearer picture of old switch, it looks as if it's connected totally wrong to me

    Here's a link to the full size image if that's any help https://i.imgur.com/GnWytEZ.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Squaredude wrote: »
    Here's a link to the full size image if that's any help https://i.imgur.com/GnWytEZ.jpg

    Its completely wrong.

    The black and brown in the 4 core flex should be connected to L1 and L2 of the selector (2 way) switch. It would be best to also take a photo of the 4 core flex connections to the immersion itself to confirm

    The link at bottom connecting L in to L2 should be removed, and used to connect L out to common.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭Randyleprechaun


    First one is wrong yes.

    Live and neutral from the supply(3 core) are ok.

    Neutral from the 4 core is ok.

    The brown link shouldn't be there.

    L out should connect to common.

    Brown and black should connect to sink & bath or L1 and L2

    New switch will be the same


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    The way it is wired in the photo, both elements can be on together.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭Squaredude


    Would this be the correct way to wire the new switch? https://imgur.com/aIWYjZy


  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭Randyleprechaun


    Yes

    Although, cannot guarantee that sink and bath are proper way around


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭Squaredude


    Yes

    Although, cannot guarantee that sink and bath are proper way around

    Thanks for the help


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Squaredude wrote: »
    Thanks for the help
    Yea when you switch it on, check the ESB meter while someone changes from sink to bath.

    The meter should speed up on bath compared to sink. Easier to see with very little else running.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,187 ✭✭✭Squaredude


    Success! And I didn't electrocute myself or burn the house down

    s8dWgBwh.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,254 ✭✭✭Kevin Finnerty


    Well done. I'd throw a clip or two on that flex onto a timber batton as near as you can to the switch.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 130 ✭✭Thomyokk


    There 's a lot going on with those main bonding conductors

    There's a spare one sticking out and i see they've chopped the 10sq going into the clamp


Advertisement