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6800 shifters with R8000 FD

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  • 27-01-2019 3:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭


    Anyone tried this? Shimano compatibility chart says they’re compatible with each other.

    I have just built up an S-Works Roubaix with 6800 and the FD is very stiff, it works fine up/down just takes a lot of force to change from small to big ring and I’m afruad it’ll break the cable if I leave it as it is. Withthe cable undone theshifter moves easily and without force. The FD moves in and out with force also so the issue is with the cable, either the routing or the cable itself.

    So I’m wondering if the R8000 FD might be easier set up and allow easier shifting although if the cable routing is the problem then it might be the same.

    The cable inner/outer are brand new jagwire items, would Shimano Dura ace cable offer slicker shifting?

    Any advice appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 475 ✭✭sin_26


    Have mounted RS685 shifters which is hydraulic version of 6800 ones I believe and it works a charm with both 8000 series derailleurs.
    FD8000 is a little bit tricky to set but once done it works like a charm.

    Cheers

    Edit: I am using using Ultegra so called polymer coated cables. No issues with front derailleur.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,561 ✭✭✭Eamonnator


    Funny this.
    I've had the exact same problem on my Planet X with Sram Force groupset.
    FD seemed to move freely, shifter seemed ok, changed cables inner and outer, still shifting was very very stiff. Then Eureka, I discovered that through time the inner cable had worn the bottom bracket cable guide, so that the cable had to move through a very narrow groove. New cable guide solved the problem.

    Could this be your problem?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Eamonnator wrote: »
    Funny this.
    I've had the exact same problem on my Planet X with Sram Force groupset.
    FD seemed to move freely, shifter seemed ok, changed cables inner and outer, still shifting was very very stiff. Then Eureka, I discovered that through time the inner cable had worn the bottom bracket cable guide, so that the cable had to move through a very narrow groove. New cable guide solved the problem.

    Could this be your problem?

    The cable runs internally so It simply runs in through a hole on the downtube and through a cable guide on the bottom of BB and back to the e frame again and out on the back of the seat tube. The cable guide appears in good order and both front and rear cables are level with each other. Rear shifting is perfectly smooth/slick so I don’t ththink the guide is the problem but I’ll examine it closer tomorrow.

    I’m going to try and attach the cable on the inside of the cable clamp rather than the recommended outer side of the clamp bolt to see if it makes any difference as I think the straighter cable line will mean less force to move the FD arm.

    And if the above doesn’t work then I’ll try with the converter in the on position as it’s currently in the off position (pin nearest the outside)


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    Just to update this: Got it sorted today, changed the (new) Jagwire cable to a shimano cable and hey presto slick and easy shifting again! The jagwire cable is only minutely bigger in diameter than the shimano cable but it was obviously making a big difference somewhere along the cable route.

    Note to self: No cheaping out on cables anymore...Shimano cables from now on. :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 475 ✭✭sin_26


    Just to update this: Got it sorted today, changed the (new) Jagwire cable to a shimano cable and hey presto slick and easy shifting again! The jagwire cable is only minutely bigger in diameter than the shimano cable but it was obviously making a big difference somewhere along the cable route.

    Note to self: No cheaping out on cables anymore...Shimano cables from now on. :rolleyes:

    Glad to hear that.
    Has been long time user of Jagwire cables myself but that polymer coated Shimano ones does great job so no looking back anymore :).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,658 ✭✭✭TheDocMan


    Think you might find the outer polymer coating on the shimano cables will ware off at any point of friction. This I've seen numerous times ( when cables aren't changed regularly) causing shifting issues- it builds up and acts like an enmeshed bung on the cable. I'd advise a high quality stainless steel inner cable used with Shimano SLR outer when you're changing those shimano inners.
    Also if anybody has a cable that feels tight or stiff in the outer due to multiple bends etc it's worth trying a Sram inner wire. It's 1.1mm compared to 1.2mm standard inner size. Might be useful info for someone


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    TheDocMan wrote: »
    Think you might find the outer polymer coating on the shimano cables will ware off at any point of friction. This I've seen numerous times ( when cables aren't changed regularly) causing shifting issues- it builds up and acts like an enmeshed bung on the cable. I'd advise a high quality stainless steel inner cable used with Shimano SLR outer when you're changing those shimano inners.
    Also if anybody has a cable that feels tight or stiff in the outer due to multiple bends etc it's worth trying a Sram inner wire. It's 1.1mm compared to 1.2mm standard inner size. Might be useful info for someone

    The shimano cable I had fitted is stainless not the one with the brown PFTE coating


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