VW e-Golf

unkel

Old diesel wrote: »

Am I being unfair to the 30 kwh class of car here?????.

Nope, your assessment is very fair.

I've one thing to add though. Ireland has very mild winters. We get days like last Monday when we had night frost and driving temps of 1-2C at 8AM about 15 days per year. If you drive like normal, your range is reduced by 25%. If you are an experienced EV driver, you can easily compensate for a lot of this reduction by reducing motorway speed, have the car pre-heated, drive smoothly and use heated seats instead of cabin heating.

This is a choice though. Personally I would prefer to spend less and make those compromises on those 15 cold days, but there are other people who prefer not to have to do that and they have to dig a lot deeper for a longer range EV

I guess it depends as well on how often you need the full range of your car on a very cold day. If nearly every day (commute), people would naturally be more inclined to go for a longer range car

Old diesel

unkel wrote: »

Nope, your assessment is very fair.

I've one thing to add though. Ireland has very mild winters. We get days like last Monday when we had night frost and driving temps of 1-2C at 8AM about 15 days per year. If you drive like normal, your range is reduced by 25%. If you are an experienced EV driver, you can easily compensate for a lot of this reduction by reducing motorway speed, have the car pre-heated, drive smoothly and use heated seats instead of cabin heating.

This is a choice though. Personally I would prefer to spend less and make those compromises on those 15 cold days, but there are other people who prefer not to have to do that and they have to dig a lot deeper for a longer range EV

I guess it depends as well on how often you need the full range of your car on a very cold day. If nearly every day (commute), people would naturally be more inclined to go for a longer range car

I suppose the thing for me is that the car will also be driven by people not into EVs - or indeed cars.

Were I the only driver - I'd buy the eGolf and accept that charging more often is a price worth paying for the car I want.

Last week's trip would mean putting eGolf on a 22 kw charger and charging at 7 kw for a while to ensure it definitely make it home comfortably.

I'd live with that - id go and have a meal or something and then come back. It's how I roll because I'd actually have that meal or walk around the town etc even in an ICE car. I hate rushing back.

The person who actually made the trip however would resent the time. Even if it was a rapid and thus 10 minutes would do it.

So looks like Zoe at the minute - I DID enjoy my Zoe test drive the other month.

Mupchease

Mike9832 wrote: »

Did you expect better Charlie?

Do you think your were mislead by main dealer, posters here, reviewers etc

20kWh/100km is pretty decent in this weather, was below freezing this morning

Thats 150km max from your 32kWh useable battery, 300km from a 64kWh eNiro, 350km Tesla Model 3

No EV is doing much better than 20kWh/100km, eGolf is very efficient

I lied Unkels will do 13kWh

I’ve only started finishing my charge and preheat to high within 5 minutes of me leaving for work in the mornings and I have seen a massive improvement in kWh. I hit 14.7kWh over 21km on this same morning. I didn’t have the heat on cause the car was toasty. I’ve no heat pump in my egolf.

Mupchease

I reset my long term driving each month to get a good guide of how efficient the car is. Here is the last 7 months shown and I roughly do the same milage each month.

I have gotten smarter in my driving, I stopped driving hard so I aim for no more than 3 bars of power when driving . Below 2 is ideal but obviously overtaking or every now and again or If I just want to have some fun il go above it. I leave it on normal the majority of the time because I’f you follow that rule it’s as efficient as eco / eco plus with all the power available when you want to use it. I try preheat the car if I remember from a charger before it’s charged so use your app and turn on the heat while it’s charging on a fast charger lads it makes a massive difference. I set that to high for pre heating and heating at the fast chargers, when driving then I’d turn it on to 24 degrees and maybe a heated seat if it’s particularly cold once I’m driving a few minutes because I let the car drop to roughly that temp from high. I find the Gom doesn’t drop drastically doing this unlike I’f you didn’t pre heat to begin with. For other times when the temp is in the low teens I find the heated seat only is usually enough but like that if it’s pre heated sure you take away all the hassle.

When motorway driving I mainly drive at 100km but other times 110 Depending. 95km does wonders if you had to be efficient it’s the same as eco + mode. I found when I use to drive faster in my old car my 100km usual trip was only around 7/9 minutes faster than when I drove at 100km so it won’t kill you to slow down a bit. At least now I’m not wondering how fast I was going when a gatzo van is on the motorway.

I have the exec so I’ve no eco alloys and I’ve no heat pump. I hope this helps.

Mupchease

Another thing I’d say is forget about B mode or any regen breaking for that matter. Get use to the car coasting when somebody breaks and give them some space in front of you for you to coast into 3/4 car lengths if you can. You use less energy than regaining some just to speed up and use more. I find pulling it into b mode is handy for coming up to lights as a way to break in regen without breaking too much and using both regen and your actual breaks. Also use cruise control only when the roads aren’t busy. If you don’t your car will be slowing and speeding up inefficiently since your car is just matching the speed of the car in front. I’d also reduce the car spacing down to one when cruise control is on so if you come to a car you are going to overtake on the motorway you have more room to make the manovour before your car slows down.

kris_2021

Mupchease wrote: »

Another thing I’d say is forget about B mode or any regen breaking for that matter. Get use to the car coasting when somebody breaks and give them some space in front of you for you to coast into 3/4 car lengths if you can. You use less energy than regaining some just to speed up and use more. I find pulling it into b mode is handy for coming up to lights as a way to break in regen without breaking too much and using both regen and your actual breaks. Also use cruise control only when the roads aren’t busy. If you don’t your car will be slowing and speeding up inefficiently since your car is just matching the speed of the car in front. I’d also reduce the car spacing down to one when cruise control is on so if you come to a car you are going to overtake on the motorway you have more room to make the manovour before your car slows down.

To avoid driving like you I decided not to buy egolf even though it is great car but not fit for any longer commute. I couldn't drive 100 or 105km/h on motorway.

charlieIRL

Mupchease wrote: »

I reset my long term driving each month to get a good guide of how efficient the car is. Here is the last 7 months shown and I roughly do the same milage each month.

How do you reset the driving data? Through the We Connect App?

unkel

kris_2021 wrote: »

To avoid driving like you I decided not to buy egolf even though it is great car but not fit for any longer commute.

I agree with you if you have to drive like above on most days. Personally I drive the bejaysus out of my car and only use above techniques on the rare occasion that my range is getting a bit tight

Dempsey

kris_2021 wrote: »

To avoid driving like you I decided not to buy egolf even though it is great car but not fit for any longer commute. I couldn't drive 100 or 105km/h on motorway.

I do 180km a day in an egolf, ~40% motorway & aircon on all the way, no bother :P

unkel

Dempsey wrote: »

I do 180km a day in an egolf, ~40% motorway & aircon on all the way, no bother :P

In winter? You must apply some serious range extending techniques to get that out of an eGolf on a bad day.

Dempsey

unkel wrote: »

In winter? You must apply some serious range extending techniques to get that out of an eGolf on a bad day.

Nah, I just charge it :pac:

unkel

Ah, you're cheating. Charging at home and at work

Dempsey

unkel wrote: »

Ah, you're cheating. Charging at home and at work

Making sure work is taking the biggest hit

liamog

Dempsey wrote: »

Making sure work is taking the biggest hit

This one simple trick will eliminate range anxiety.

Plug in your car!

Mupchease

kris_2021 wrote: »

To avoid driving like you I decided not to buy egolf even though it is great car but not fit for any longer commute. I couldn't drive 100 or 105km/h on motorway.

That’s fair enough and you were dead right not to buy one if you have a regular longer commute without a charger at your destination. I was only throwing out another type of driving to show some people the car would suit that the range can be enough for them. A tweak or two in your driving and below 20kwh/100km is an easy task. Myself I’d only drive slower on the Motorway for the long drive I do once or twice a week. Other than that I’d always do the speed. I don’t always use the tips I’ve said besides the pre heating one that makes the biggest difference. You could 100% get better efficiency than what I get if you were a person who wanted to drive very economically even at that I don’t pre heat/ charge as much as I should. Setting your car to charge before you drive it has the battery temperature up and makes the car a lot more efficient. You will hear people talking about charging their car from cold it’s a big thing. I just know it works from trying out different driving patterns the past few months out of curiosity. With IONITY in place I don’t need to be driving slower it’s just part out of habit at this stage since I use to do it incase the esb at Gorey was down and I needed to make it back to coynes. This car is phenomenal driving around city’s / back roads and using the m50. It’s downfall is long motorway runs unless you have a charger at your destination for them like a work charger then this car isn’t for you.

kris_2021

Mupchease wrote: »

That’s fair enough and you were dead right not to buy one if you have a regular longer commute without a charger at your destination. I was only throwing out another type of driving to show some people the car would suit that the range can be enough for them. A tweak or two in your driving and below 20kwh/100km is an easy task. Myself I’d only drive slower on the Motorway for the long drive I do once or twice a week. Other than that I’d always do the speed. I don’t always use the tips I’ve said besides the pre heating one that makes the biggest difference. You could 100% get better efficiency than what I get if you were a person who wanted to drive very economically even at that I don’t pre heat/ charge as much as I should. Setting your car to charge before you drive it has the battery temperature up and makes the car a lot more efficient. You will hear people talking about charging their car from cold it’s a big thing. I just know it works from trying out different driving patterns the past few months out of curiosity. With IONITY in place I don’t need to be driving slower it’s just part out of habit at this stage since I use to do it incase the esb at Gorey was down and I needed to make it back to coynes. This car is phenomenal driving around city’s / back roads and using the m50. It’s downfall is long motorway runs unless you have a charger at your destination for them like a work charger then this car isn’t for you.

I test drove for 24h and loved it. Range was the only problem for me.

Mupchease

charlieIRL wrote: »

How do you reset the driving data? Through the We Connect App?

You have to do it in car.

1. Press the menu button
2. Press the vehicle button
3. Press settings in the lower right hand corner
4. Press instrument cluster settings
5. Scroll to the bottom
6. Press reset “Long-term” driving data

L-M

Mupchease wrote: »

You have to do it in car.

1. Press the menu button
2. Press the vehicle button
3. Press settings in the lower right hand corner
4. Press instrument cluster settings
5. Scroll to the bottom
6. Press reset “Long-term” driving data

You can do it through the multi function display as well.

If you’re on the “Driving Data” menu, scroll down to whatever you want to reset. If you briefly press Ok it will change from “Since start” to “Long term” etc then just press and Hold the OK button on the steering wheel and that’ll reset it.

Mupchease

How have others found getting their car serviced ? Did you get given battery readings ect ? What information did you receive that is any different than an Ice car service ?

I got mine done today in Vw. I couldn’t bring it over myself so I couldn’t ask a load of questions. The sheets I got given back and the feedback was they are claiming it should have been done every 15k which is completely wrong. It says the warranty is only 90k on it too. I’ve other sheets when I bought the car of 180k and I’ve checks apparently done on the engine and gearbox .....

Edit : the car was spotless hovered and cleaned. I got the usual video checks for the tyres. It does mention cable checks and high voltage battery checks just no readings or feedback on this. The parts talking about the engine could just be in just out of laziness on vw part of not updating their sheets. Also the sheet mentioning servicing oil checks ect and the 90k could be a generic sheet too with the service price. Il ring up and question it all tomorrow but if anybody had any feedback of what extra I should be looking for or if they got compleatly different service sheets it would be much appreciated.

charlieIRL

My GOM is reading 190kms now, in Eco+ and no heating on, will be great in the warmer weather!!!

I'd drive all day in Eco+ if i had to but its impossible when there's only cold air blowing

unkel

charlieIRL wrote: »

My GOM is reading 190kms now, in Eco+ and no heating on, will be great in the warmer weather!!!

I'd drive all day in Eco+ if i had to but its impossible when there's only cold air blowing

Have you no seat heating? If you're really gung ho about getting max range, they are selling a seat pad in Lidl at the moment for about €11 that plugs into your cigarette lighter

charlieIRL

unkel wrote: »

Have you no seat heating? If you're really gung ho about getting max range, they are selling a seat pad in Lidl at the moment for about €11 that plugs into your cigarette lighter

I do but the cabin still gets cold once the pre-heating wears off.

I think I’m just getting too wound up over the range. For work it’s perfect, for the weekend - not so much.

Mango Joe

Can I please ask - The Independent did a round-up of electric cars recently and the e-Golf seemed to be at the very bottom of the rankings in terms of its range?

I think it was listed as 200 or 220 Kms or similar with many cars being 2 or 3 times this value..... is this based on outdated or incorrect data?

Just wondering how there would be such a large gap here.

charlieIRL

Mango Joe wrote: »

Can I please ask - The Independent did a round-up of electric cars recently and the e-Golf seemed to be at the very bottom of the rankings in terms of its range?

I think it was listed as 200 or 220 Kms or similar with many cars being 2 or 3 times this value..... is this based on outdated or incorrect data?

Just wondering how there would be such a large gap here.

The golf is an ice car adapted to an EV, not built from the ground up on a dedicated platform etc. so therefore is less efficient than the rest.

unkel

eGolf just doesn't have a particularly big battery, hence the lowish range. It's quite an efficient car though, no 4 most efficient EV after Hyundai Ioniq, Tesla Model 3 and BMW i3

JPA

charlieIRL wrote: »

The golf is an ice car adapted to an EV, not built from the ground up on a dedicated platform etc. so therefore is less efficient than the rest.

That is not the reason. Simply has one of the smallest batteries of current EVs.

charlieIRL

JPA wrote: »

That is not the reason. Simply has one of the smallest batteries of current EVs.

Hasn't an Ioniq has a smaller battery but longer range?

Mickeroo

charlieIRL wrote: »

Hasn't an Ioniq has a smaller battery but longer range?

The article they're on about only factors in the new Ioniq with the bigger battery I think.

charlieIRL

Mickeroo wrote: »

The article they're on about only factors in the new Ioniq with the bigger battery I think.

Well they should have compared an ID3 instead of an e-golf then, like for like!!

P.S. I didn't read the article so not sure what cars were used.

unkel

charlieIRL wrote: »

Hasn't an Ioniq has a smaller battery but longer range?

Yes the 28kWh Ioniq classic has a smaller battery than eGolf, but a higher range (in real life). It is just extremely efficient and aerodynamic.