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Megane 1.5dci DPF - wrong spec oil in it?

  • 11-02-2019 7:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 150 ✭✭


    Hi lads,

    my apologies if this is not the right forum for my question. Anyway, garage poured wrong spec oil into the car which I figured out ~3 months later when I actually read the receipt and went to check it. In this particular case car has 5w40 rn0700 (or 0700+0710) poured in it instead of 5w30 rn0720 (because of the dpf).

    Would anyone have any advice how to deal with it now? Should I just leave it and carry on, change it and carry on or something else?

    Knowing everybody's opinion about DPF and it's repair costs, I would say that I'll do the oil+filter change definitely again before the NCT (within a month). But just wanted to touch base with you as well and hear your opinion (if we have some oil expert here :) )

    Thanks!


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    I am sure there is no possible damages if the oil was fully synthetic. Part synthetic or mineral then it is bad story.
    Replace soon as possible, because engines are made for specific oil(s) only.

    That is too possible they add the right oil but entered to the receipt the wrong spec.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,934 ✭✭✭Renegade Mechanic


    You'll be fine, OP.
    5w30 is basically as follows.
    Viscosity of 5 when cold, (so both oils are identical)
    Winter, so again identical.

    Now, the 30 in the position after the w is an indication that the 5 oil you have when cold will not thin out more than a 30 oil would at the engines full operating temperature.
    That's how the multigrade system works.

    So despite being both synthetic and both identical in viscosity starting out, once you reach operating temperature the 5w40 oil will simply be a little bit thicker. This would only be a problem maybe in Russia, or perhaps with a 2019 1.5 dci with tighter bearing clearances, but by no means dangerous.
    Drive on :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,061 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    You'll be fine, OP.
    5w30 is basically as follows.
    Viscosity of 5 when cold, (so both oils are identical)
    Winter, so again identical.

    Now, the 30 in the position after the w is an indication that the 5 oil you have when cold will not thin out more than a 30 oil would at the engines full operating temperature.
    That's how the multigrade system works.

    So despite being both synthetic and both identical in viscosity starting out, once you reach operating temperature the 5w40 oil will simply be a little bit thicker. This would only be a problem maybe in Russia, or perhaps with a 2019 1.5 dci with tighter bearing clearances, but by no means dangerous.
    Drive on :D

    On modern engines the xWxx is a useful guide but you need to make sure that it's the correct API as per the owners manual


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,934 ✭✭✭Renegade Mechanic


    Del2005 wrote: »
    On modern engines the xWxx is a useful guide but you need to make sure that it's the correct API as per the owners manual

    It's a French car in the European continent. Accidentally getting an oil made for a 60s Oldsmobile Cutlass will take some doing :D

    But on a more serious note, it is indeed worth checking the API, though I've generally seen it to be within the xWxx rating for any of the cars I've done. Plus I don't service many posh yokes :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    The SAE classification (0W30, 5W40 etc) is really irrelevant in this age. European classification ACEA is a good guidance - with C1 and C4 oils being appropriate for modern diesel engines. But both of those differ significantly in HTHS parameter.

    However, these days complex engines and post treatment systems require various properties of oils, which often are contradictory between models and no single classification can cater for all of those requirements. Oil that is well aligned with the engine can mitigate a lot of "typical" problems with particular engine - exp. for 1.6HDI carbon buildup in the turbo feed pipe.

    Each manufacturer tests oils to meet those requirements for particular engine. And only oil with proper approval should be used - as long term the engine will not work with optimal lubrication nor protection. Of course, there is no immediate damage to using incorrect oil.


    In OP's case I would not split the hair, but change the oil to proper one soon enough. Engine will not suffer, but the post treatment system might get clogged with the ashes coming from oil not designed for DPF equipped cars.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭FDave


    grogi wrote: »
    The SAE classification (0W30, 5W40 etc) is really irrelevant in this age. European classification ACEA is a good guidance - with C3 and C4 oils being appropriate for modern diesel engines.

    This. Car manufacturers quote multiple viscositys for different climates so i wouldnt be worried too much there. The Api spec mentioned relates to the detergents for keeping engines clean.
    For cars with dpf ACEA C1 and C4 are low SAPS oils and the spec u should be most concerned with. Check your owners manual to find the correct spec for your car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭porsche boy


    You'll be fine, OP. 5w30 is basically as follows. Viscosity of 5 when cold, (so both oils are identical) Winter, so again identical.

    It's a lot less to do with viscosity and a lot more to do with the sulphated ash, phosphorus and Sulphur (known as SAPS) and the effectcthese additives have on a DPF system.

    It will drive fine and nobody would notice the different oil but it can have a detrimental effect on the lifespan of the DPF.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    Everything are nice but nobody does not know what oil there actually are. If mineral oil, it is just a ticking bomb.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭porsche boy


    w211 wrote:
    Everything are nice but nobody does not know what oil there actually are. If mineral oil, it is just a ticking bomb.

    Is English your first language???


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    Is English your first language???
    Do not start that BS again!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 181 ✭✭FDave


    w211 wrote: »
    Everything are nice but nobody does not know what oil there actually are. If mineral oil, it is just a ticking bomb.

    Never heard anybody describe mineral oil as a ticking time bomb as you do. There are still cars driving around that require mineral oil and it lubricates them just fine. Many semi syntetics are heavily mineral based with added detergents.

    As mentioned in the op's case the wrong type oil in the engine will have most effect over time on the dpf if it isn't a low SAPS oils.


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