Flash & AA batteries

The Black Oil

Hey. I've an SB 700 Nikon flash. I don't use my camera (D50) much, once or twice a year for a conference or two. Main thing I'm not sure about is the AA batteries for the flash and how long they last. It's not that I'm taking loads of photos, only of the 5-6 speakers, really. In the past I've gotten the low warning symbol pretty quickly. I'm not sure if battery testers are reliable, say a pound shop type thing. Is it best to just get with fresh ones each time? Ones lying around at the bottom of the page...the 'seal' may be gone, yeah? The tester might say there's power left, but maybe it's only enough for a TV remote, etc, and not a flash.

Bacchus

Don't complicate things for yourself with testers, chucking together random batteries from the ends of packs, or going for cheap batteries that will let you down (it's not just about how many flashes you get out of them but also how quickly the flash can recycle).

Just get reliable brand AAs, and bring a spare set or two in case they run out of juice. Once a set are dead, put them aside in a pouch/bag and recycle them at your earliest convenience.

Also... http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/camerareview/nikon-sb-700-af-speedlight-review/3/

Battery life is estimated at 160 shots with alkalines, 260 with 2600 mAh NiMH, and 330 with lithium.

The Black Oil

Thanks. They're Kodak and Philips, and probably fairly depleted. As you say, best to keep it simple. I'll pick up some new ones during the week.

https://www.scantips.com/lights/flashbatteries.html

CabanSail

I get packs of 30 Varta Alkaline AA's from the local Hardware Chain. They cost $10 for the blister pack. They probably last the same as the known brand one's as they most like come off the same production line. If not they last about 90% the distance. If using flashes I put in a fresh set each time.That's AU$1.35 a set, so less than a Euro.

Don't stuff about with old batteries which are likely to give you grief. Lash out and spend a quid.

ED E

Go to Ikea. Get these. They're really Eneloops.
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/smart-home/chargers-batteries/ladda-rechargeable-battery-art-70303876/

Two packs, charge both up before an event. Will give you oodles of juice.


Curious as to why you bother with a D50 anymore though....

The Black Oil

I threw some of the older batteries into those electric lamps for fun, just to see, barely powered them. Adios to those.

ED E wrote: »

Curious as to why you bother with a D50 anymore though....

Aye, not much of a photographer and don't have anything else. Still, might drop Gunns a line to see.

CabanSail

ED E wrote: »

Curious as to why you bother with a D50 anymore though....

.... and why not use a D50?

It would still do quite a good job for general photography and I cannot see much demands for this sort of shoot that needs more capability.

blackbox

I found that it's best to take out the batteries when not actually using it.

ED E

CabanSail wrote: »

.... and why not use a D50?

It would still do quite a good job for general photography and I cannot see much demands for this sort of shoot that needs more capability.

Old bodies are fine in daylight but in poor light the DSP that a decent phone does destroys them. Especially for an amateur who wont be recovering detail from RAWs.

Bacchus

ED E wrote: »

Old bodies are fine in daylight but in poor light the DSP that a decent phone does destroys them. Especially for an amateur who wont be recovering detail from RAWs.

... but you did see the bit where he's using a flash?

For the OPs needs, the D50 and a single flash can do the job. I'm not saying better kit won't help (couple more flashes, modifiers, umbrellas, reflectors would all technically help) but there's nowt wrong with someone who breaks out the camera twice a year for some headshots using this kit.

The Black Oil

The other thing is group photos. I don't have much experience here and am not sure how best to take them with a flash. Taking photos of a single speaker (I could use 50mm lens more often here, tbh, otherwise it's just 18-55mm kit) at a podium has worked out from OK to good in the past, good enough for an annual report. I think past group shots have seemed under powered or maybe drowned in flash, I can't recall which. Mindful of background clutter in the venue too.

Was at an event in TCD last night and the photographer was taking shots of the speaker - had a long ish lens, no flash. He didn't stay for the full event otherwise I would have asked.

CabanSail

With newer bodies the noise performance is so much better that you can just push up the ISO rather than use a flash. I am afraid that this is where the D50 will fall down. You will have to stay below about 800.

For the group shot it would be best if you can bounce the flash.

Bacchus

The Black Oil wrote: »

The other thing is group photos. I don't have much experience here and am not sure how best to take them with a flash. Taking photos of a single speaker (I could use 50mm lens more often here, tbh, otherwise it's just 18-55mm kit) at a podium has worked out from OK to good in the past, good enough for an annual report. I think past group shots have seemed under powered or maybe drowned in flash, I can't recall which. Mindful of background clutter in the venue too.

Was at an event in TCD last night and the photographer was taking shots of the speaker - had a long ish lens, no flash. He didn't stay for the full event otherwise I would have asked.

If you are looking to improve your set up there's a couple of relatively cheap things to look at first.
- I'd look at how you are using your flash. Are you correctly bouncing it off surfaces to create a more ambient looking light or are you fire straight on at the group? Firing straight on is going to result in harsh light.
- You could look at flash modifiers to diffuse the light a bit and create a softer light on the group. There's plenty of options at any price range available for this.
- If you're not happy with the "power" of the light, learn about the different modes on the flash (if you don't already understand them). TTL is great but can be inconsistent and you're relying on the camera thinks you need from the flash. Instead, personally when I use flash I keep in on manual. It's surprisingly simple to control your flash/exposure in manual mode, particularly in a static scene/scenario such as yours.

ED E

Bacchus wrote: »

... but you did see the bit where he's using a flash?

For the OPs needs, the D50 and a single flash can do the job. I'm not saying better kit won't help (couple more flashes, modifiers, umbrellas, reflectors would all technically help) but there's nowt wrong with someone who breaks out the camera twice a year for some headshots using this kit.

My point is comparing a Pixel 2/3 or P20Pro to a D50 + Flash only the latter will give you a deer in a headlights shot. If the thing in your pocket gets a more natural result the DSLR becomes obsolete.

Yes you could start getting diffusers etc but for twice a year you have to weigh up the economics.

The Black Oil

Thanks for the comments, I wasn't sure where to put this thread originally - here or the off topic chat one. I think it was pixbyjohn who gave me advice some years ago: 1/160, f5.6, ISO 200, maybe 400 and use the white card if needed. I just got a new work phone today, going from a 5s to 6s, that might help a bit if camera based group shots fail re harsh lighting, etc. Work's mental at the moment so I don't have time to practice. Would like to do more photography to learn properly...running is my main hobby these days. I've been in the venue of the upcoming conference a few times before. Ceiling is a bit higher than a house, iirc. I think when I've bounced up before and the results has been a little weak. Could this be length of travel of the beam? During the lectures/presentations the ceiling lights are usually reduced. If bouncing's not turning out well, is this where bumping EV (?) settings might help? Oh, forgot to say I've generally been leaving the stock thing defuser on. This yolk https://www.adorama.com/alc/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/shutterstock_533907670.jpg I'll have a look at some of last year's when I get to work's server.

Anyway, it's late and sleep is due - thanks.

Bacchus

The Black Oil wrote: »

Thanks for the comments, I wasn't sure where to put this thread originally - here or the off topic chat one. I think it was pixbyjohn who gave me advice some years ago: 1/160, f5.6, ISO 200, maybe 400 and use the white card if needed. I just got a new work phone today, going from a 5s to 6s, that might help a bit if camera based group shots fail re harsh lighting, etc. Work's mental at the moment so I don't have time to practice. Would like to do more photography to learn properly...running is my main hobby these days. I've been in the venue of the upcoming conference a few times before. Ceiling is a bit higher than a house, iirc. I think when I've bounced up before and the results has been a little weak. Could this be length of travel of the beam? During the lectures/presentations the ceiling lights are usually reduced. If bouncing's not turning out well, is this where bumping EV (?) settings might help? Oh, forgot to say I've generally been leaving the stock thing defuser on. This yolk https://www.adorama.com/alc/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/shutterstock_533907670.jpg I'll have a look at some of last year's when I get to work's server.

Anyway, it's late and sleep is due - thanks.

A high ceiling is going to work against you. You should be able to compensate the TTL output to give you more power (if it's not already giving you 1/1 power). That stock diffuser isn't going to do much either. Get (or make) a better one that will create a larger light source for you. At least that way you can get away a bit with pointing the on-camera flash straight at your subjects.

ED E wrote: »

My point is comparing a Pixel 2/3 or P20Pro to a D50 + Flash only the latter will give you a deer in a headlights shot. If the thing in your pocket gets a more natural result the DSLR becomes obsolete.

Yes you could start getting diffusers etc but for twice a year you have to weigh up the economics.

I get where your coming from here and the Pixel 3 by all accounts is excellent at low light wizardry. However, just in the context of the OPs thread the original posts came I didn't it was necessary to question the OPs gear when the OPs gear can do the job just fine. It's a valid point you make there that if the OP has a Pixel 3 (or one of the other current flagship camera phones), that could do a good job for him.

Speaking of "weighing up economics" though, I think a diffuser (which you could make yourself with a milk carton and some tape) is more economical than a €800 phone :pac:

The Black Oil

Sit rep. Did a few test photos before the main event, just of the empty podium, etc. Took a few without flash once proceedings kicked off. Should have known better to rely on the camera's screen to think these were 'good', as they were mostly not. Other than being less grainy, they were not much better than my 6s, really. Flash on helped a good deal - side bar, was at an event later and pro there had stock defuser like I linked above, high ceiling there too! The worst stuff from today was closed eyes, just the wrong facial expression, etc, and probably my lack of skills. Not much need for group shots in the end (in the main part of the building the lights were good enough). Main emphasis was on the speakers - one of them was quite animated and a little challenging to get good shots of. I was conscious of trying to pick my moments and not being too trigger happy, maybe I should have clicked more often with the flash to improve the chances overall. Think I got enough for the annual report anyway, will review them in full on Monday. Presume modern cameras with wifi, etc, mean you can upload them easily and therefore plonk good DSLR shots onto your social media fairly lively.

Batteries :pac: got a handful of shots before the old ones went, followed by the others that had been loose in my bag. After that, I stuck in a set that came out of their original wrapping, but didn't work at all. Quick check, oops expiry March 2017 and one was a bit corroded. Good thing I picked up a back up set in Dunnes last night. Must have over a dozen to recycle now. Right. Enough work talk, should be off the clock now.

€800 for a phone would make me feel sick. I'd hate carrying that and would rather spend that on a holiday, or new camera.

CabanSail

Well done. Sounds like you did better than was expected.

WiFi etc. will only let you upload the Jpegs out of the camera. If your RAW shots are like mine then you would not want anyone seeing them at that stage. Show them the images after they are processed and edited.

The Black Oil

No RAW here.

OK, situation #2 arose, a different event and setting (hotel). There were big wigs around and a pro this time so I didn't really want to stand up compared to the other event, I was also tweeting, etc. Anyway - due to my n00bness, I was unsure what the balance was overall, in trying to capture the person and not drown out the natural artificial/ceiling light and its glow, by flash. I've seen one of the pro's group shots used for an article, he had a bit of flash going on (pointed up, iirc), and the venue's lighting is in tact, plus branding backstand/banner thing - no whitewash effect. I think he had a long lens for when people were speaking (the position of the laptop was a little annoying) and used some flash there too. I'd like to know some more myself about not needing to use flash for close up shots (settings allowing) when someone's talking, good focus and a clear outcome...and knowing the mechanics of same.

I have a copy of 'Understanding Exposure' by Bryan Peterson which I need to get on with reading...

CabanSail

I was asked to cover an event last night too. It was a talk and responses by some politicians in a local pub. I decided to use flash rather than available light for the speakers. My setup was two Speedlights on stands, one either side of the stage, bouncing off the white ceiling. I had the Flash Controller on the camera and used the 70-200 lens at f4 and 125th sec and ISO100.

For the crowd shots I changed over to Aperture Priority at f2.8 and turned off the flash controller. I also switched the Auto ISO on, so it ramped up quite high for most of those shots and I processed to reduce noise in post. Here are some examples.

The first two are completely lit by flash, the second two is available light.

The Black Oil

I'd have been happy enough with something like the examples you've posted, were I able to manage that for the events I attended. At least now I'm slightly more clear in my own head about how to do it. I wasn't aware auto ISO existed until you mentioned it. D50 doesn't have it, iirc. Only copped today that I hadn't updated the clock - it was a bit ahead.

I'm a few pages into the Bryan Peterson book. Does seem like he has a bone or two to pick manufacturers in the digital age and confusing Joe Consumer. Sounds fair enough to me. The book is current ish (2010), fourth edition came out in 2016. Yesterday, I was looking through a free local town magazine yesterday which had a few photos and trying to mentally judge what would be required for each shot - pancakes on a plate with chocolate sauce and a dog running through water - eyes, face, ears, paws were clear, background was blurred and the spray of the water was what you'd expect with an animal bounding through.

Anyway, I pottered up to a local 4 mile race today. I had a quick look at these pics before hand. https://www.flickr.com/photos/86489211@N00/albums/72157706236620024 He's on boards too.

I didn't wear glasses when I bought the D50, I do now and need them to see properly through the viewfinder. 50mm probably isn't ideal for a race, really. First up was just this cone which was more of a 'can I take it without having then immediately delete it due to it being too dark?' type job. :pac: Race got underway shortly after. Anyway, most shots ended up like one Eoin has here, or worse. https://www.flickr.com/photos/86489211@N00/46896123961/in/album-72157706236620024/ iirc, I started off around 1/200 and tried to bring it up a little, I did tinker a little with the ISO a jot. I'm happy enough with lighting, think I got a bit stuck on not knowing enough about using M/A/S and juggling those...and thus largely stuck with S which perhaps wasn't ideal. The Peterson book has a note about trying not to get stuck at 5.6...

Some examples attached, incl the cone. :pac: Not editing these (sorry about the file sizes), t'was just to try things out.

pixbyjohn

Hi Black Oil.
My advice regarding AA batteries for your SB 700 is to buy 8 rechargeables in Ikea or www.7dayshop.com I usually mark each set of 4 batteries so I know that I keep the same 4 batteries together, 7dayshop will actually supply plastic cases that hold 4 batteries. Always fully charge your batteries before every event.

https://www.7dayshop.com/products/7dayshop-aa-hr06-nimh-high-performance-rechargeable-batteries-2900-series-extra-value-8-pack-in-cases-wh2-ds-102
And if you buy above items it is free delivery to Ireland, buy a charger as well.
I use these batteries and get over 500 flashes from SB900

Cheers , John

The Black Oil

Thanks John. Only went to Ikea once when it first came here.

Wanted to post this, seeing as flashes are in situ. Probably an overcast/dull day, by the looks of it. How likely is that flash is used?

https://twitter.com/marktigheST/status/1101520350515478528