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LED Flood Lights staying on dimly

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  • 24-03-2019 8:36pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,884 ✭✭✭


    Hi foks,

    Hoping somebody can help put.

    I replaced today a broken outdoor light. I took down an incandescent lamp and put up an LED one.

    Problem I am having is that even when the light switch is off, the lamp is staying on at reduced capacity. Voltage to the lamp when switched off is 102 Volts.

    The light is on a 3 gang switch and also fitted with a PIR sensor outdoors.

    Any thoughts ?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,250 ✭✭✭pixbyjohn


    Maybe a leak of voltage across the switches in the 3 gang unit


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭keithdub


    Sounds like back feed on the neutral try turning off all other lights


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,884 ✭✭✭Tzardine


    keithdub wrote: »
    Sounds like back feed on the neutral try turning off all other lights

    Its the same when the other lights are off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,163 ✭✭✭ZENER


    What are you using to switch the light ? If it's a sensor then it's quite possible there is some form of RFI suppression across the relay contact which is allowing enough voltage through to the LED ?

    Ken


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,583 ✭✭✭alan4cult


    You could be getting a ghost voltage but that seems high at 102 volts. A fluke meter on low impedance setting will tell you if this 102 is stray or not.

    What are you using to measure the voltage? As the previous poster said you could be getting stray across the relay, but if the switch is off you should be getting nothing measured live to neutral, else you have a neutral to earth fault. Is this circuit on an RCD?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,596 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    pixbyjohn wrote: »
    Maybe a leak of voltage across the switches in the 3 gang unit
    Highly unlikely.


    A little “noise” on the neutral can cause this with LEDs.
    To ensure the the lights are turned off fully a simple solution is to switch both the neutrality and the phase (live). If a sensor controls these lights simply get it to switch a contactor which in turn feeds the LED lights. This contactor can switch the phase and neutral.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,005 ✭✭✭kirving


    I have the same issue with a landing light that can be switched on from either upstairs or downstairs. It happens in both combinations of up on/down off and up off/down on.

    I haven't checked the actual voltage at the outlet, but this has reminded me to do so.

    From my limited knowledge of wiring of industrial machinery, where you don't run power line beside sensor lines, I had theorised that a voltage was being induced in the cable. But 102V does seem high I would have thought.


  • Registered Users Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    Is the 102v "real"
    Induced?
    Perhaps install a high impedance load (eg a 15 W lamp) between your measured 102v contacts and see if the voltage collapses?

    Perhaps my thoughts are wrong.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Tzardine wrote: »
    when the light switch is off, the lamp is staying on at reduced capacity. Voltage to the lamp when switched off is 102 Volts.


    The switch does not switch the light off.
    Use a double pole switch.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Capacitive coupling to the floating switch wire is a possibility,

    Can we assume that there is no unswitched supply to the fitting as well as the switched one?

    100v is a high reading for cap coupling even for a digital meter.

    With pir sensors involved, anything is possible, unless the wall switch disconnects the only phase supply.


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