Home LED lights very dim.

Just moved into a new house and bought these for my kitchen recently:

MR16 GU5.3 LED Light Bulbs,COOWOO... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XP8WBDD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There are 12 in the kitchen in total. They're controlled by 3 switches, each switch controls 4 lights. One of the switches appears to work fine, the lights come on as normal. The other two switches, comprising of 8 lights, when you turn them on they flash to the brightness level they should be but then instantly dim to a level that is basically useless. Could anyone suggest what's going on there? I'm replacing older incandescent lights.

Again 4 of the 12 lights seem to work fine so it appears TH be related to the switch /circuit for the faulty ones, rather than the bulbs not working.

ted1

Raylan Eager Speedometer wrote: »

Just moved into a new house and bought these for my kitchen recently:

MR16 GU5.3 LED Light Bulbs,COOWOO... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XP8WBDD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There are 12 in the kitchen in total. They're controlled by 3 switches, each switch controls 4 lights. One of the switches appears to work fine, the lights come on as normal. The other two switches, comprising of 8 lights, when you turn them on they flash to the brightness level they should be but then instantly dim to a level that is basically useless. Could anyone suggest what's going on there? I'm replacing older incandescent lights.

Again 4 of the 12 lights seem to work fine so it appears TH be related to the switch /circuit for the faulty ones, rather than the bulbs not working.

Why are you replacing incandescent lamps with low voltage ones ? Why not just use GU10s?

Does each one have its own transformer ? What’s the transformer rated for? If there is only 1 transformer Are the lamps in series or parallel ?

punisher5112

Look at GU10 and what would be ideal is likes of IKEA WiFi GU10 or Philips hue etc.

You change back to 230v and no transformers so no issues like you are having now.

shane b

As mentioned above it's either the transformers aren't rated to work at that low a wattage or if they are on a dimmer switch it's not led compatable. 50 watt down to 5 watt may be too big of a jump for 12v.
Best option would be remove the transformers and change to 240 volt. You will need new bulbs and possibly new holders/fittings.

ted1

ted1 wrote: »

Why are you replacing incandescent lamps with low voltage ones ? Why not just use GU10s?

Does each one have its own transformer ? What’s the transformer rated for? If there is only 1 transformer Are the lamps in series or parallel ?

Most of the bulbs were blown so I wanted to replace them with LED as they use less power and don't blow as regularly, or so I understood.

I don't know about a transformer, don't even know what I'd be looking for.

punisher5112 wrote: »

Look at GU10 and what would be ideal is likes of IKEA WiFi GU10 or Philips hue etc.

You change back to 230v and no transformers so no issues like you are having now.

GU10 is the connection right? They don't fit into the connectors that are there at present, so I didn't get them. Are we saying those would be more suitable than the bulbs I got?

shane b wrote: »

As mentioned above it's either the transformers aren't rated to work at that low a wattage or if they are on a dimmer switch it's not led compatable. 50 watt down to 5 watt may be too big of a jump for 12v.
Best option would be remove the transformers and change to 240 volt. You will need new bulbs and possibly new holders/fittings.

There's no dimmer, just a switch on the wall.

Thanks all anyway, thought it would be as simple as taking one bulb out and putting another in but obviously not. Still can't really understand why some work and some don't

shane b

You 2 options left. The cheaper and easier option eould be to go back to the 12 volt halogen bulbs. The other option is new Gu10 bulbs and fittings. This would include removing the transformers as well and wiring the ne fittings in. Bit of time and expense involved to change all 12.
If it's a rented house I'd just replace the 12 volt ones that are blown

punisher5112

If you go gu10 and WiFi route you can set scenes, connect a wireless sensor, change colour if colour lamps are bought but obviously not necessary, control fully from a wireless switch and phone or tablet.

Scenes can be like you know after a certain hour you wouldn't want all lit or set up only a few come on or all etc.

So much can be done.

Basically you need to pull lamp down and springs holding fitting to ceiling but be careful pulling these down and be gentle but firm, you then need to pull down the transformer, disconnect the transformer cable leaving mains in connector, then connect new GU10 tails into the live and neutral mains.

Fitting depending on type should be ok but they aren't too expensive to change either way.

Thanks again both. I had a look at what the lights were connected to for the ones that weren't working and the ones that were, screenshots attached.

I'm sure you've gathered I'm no electrician, but the ones that aren't working just connect to that plastic block, the live and neutral go straight into it, and it does not appear to be a transformer to me.

The ones that are working have that Robus thing which I guess might be the transformer?

Are we saying I do not need a transformer for the GU10 lights? It's our house, not rented, so would like to do a decent job of it. Sorry I'm sure this is all very basic.

A procedure like this for example would do to replace?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BISDFk1RvQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A10NuH4jSfE

punisher5112

1st pic is just the porcelain connector.

You need to pull further and you will come across transformer, what most likely is wrong are cables burnt from the heat of the 50 watt bulbs as these are extremely hot.

This would explain the flashing etc.

SCOOP 64

Sorry to butt in just to confirm if you know you have a transformer running standard GU10 50 watt and want to change to LED GU10 for cheaper running cost you cannot just change them, the transformer has to removed? thanks

punisher5112

SCOOP 64 wrote: »

Sorry to butt in just to confirm if you know you have a transformer running standard GU10 50 watt and want to change to LED GU10 for cheaper running cost you cannot just change them, the transformer has to removed? thanks

They weren't GU10 they plugged in like for like....

Things have moved on so much from having a transformer at each light.

GU10 230v is where it's at.

SCOOP 64

punisher5112 wrote: »

They weren't GU10 they plugged in like for like....

Things have moved on so much from having a transformer at each light.

GU10 230v is where it's at.

The reason im asking got some GU10 outside lights in sofit with transformer, think of changing to LED.

2011

SCOOP 64 wrote: »

The reason im asking got some GU10 outside lights in sofit with transformer, think of changing to LED.

GU10 lamps don’t use a transformer as they are designed to operate at mains voltage. MR16 lamps look similar and use a transformer.

ted1

SCOOP 64 wrote: »

Sorry to butt in just to confirm if you know you have a transformer running standard GU10 50 watt and want to change to LED GU10 for cheaper running cost you cannot just change them, the transformer has to removed? thanks

GU 10 run off mains and don’t use Transformers. So it’s a straight swap

Just be careful Some dimner switches won’t work with GU10s

SCOOP 64

ted1 wrote: »

GU 10 run off mains and don’t use Transformers. So it’s a straight swap

Just be careful Some dimner switches won’t work with GU10s

Say your right, haven't taken them out in years, think they have 2 small pins sticking out.