VW ID.3

eagerv

heron_joe wrote: »

Saw my first one in the wild today, at the charger in Lahinch. Can’t wait to get my own, will hopefully have it by next weekend.
What would be the average time to charge from 20% to 80% at 22kW chargers?

About three and a half hours to allow for a bit of loss.

Rusky rusky

heron_joe wrote: »

Saw my first one in the wild today, at the charger in Lahinch. Can’t wait to get my own, will hopefully have it by next weekend.
What would be the average time to charge from 20% to 80% at 22kW chargers?

Theoretically 3h10min

KCross

heron_joe wrote: »

... What would be the average time to charge from 20% to 80% at 22kW chargers?

20-80 is 60% of 58kWh which is ~38kWh including losses.

Charging at 11kW at eCars charger would take ~3.5hrs

EDIT: Snap with Rusky and eagerv!

graememk

heron_joe wrote: »

Saw my first one in the wild today, at the charger in Lahinch. Can’t wait to get my own, will hopefully have it by next weekend.
What would be the average time to charge from 20% to 80% at 22kW chargers?

Afaik as I know the car has a three phase 11kw charger in it and 20% to 80% is about 33kwh (assuming a 55kwh battery)

So you could pull 11kw from a 22kw charge point, - 3 hrs would get you to 80%

the_amazing_raisin

heron_joe wrote: »

Saw my first one in the wild today, at the charger in Lahinch. Can’t wait to get my own, will hopefully have it by next weekend.
What would be the average time to charge from 20% to 80% at 22kW chargers?

Probably 3 to 3.5 hours assuming you're charging at 11kW all the way

I don't think anyone has tested it, but you can probably maintain the 11kW above 90%, since the DC charging tests seemed to be pulling 25kW almost to 100%

Rusky rusky

kris_2021 wrote: »

U must have drove very slow?

What KCross said:) You don’t want to have car sickness on the road between Kinsale and Timoleague.
The car def bobs a lot more than my highline golf estate.

jonnythefox

Rusky rusky wrote: »

What KCross said:) You don’t want to have car sickness on the road between Kinsale and Timoleague.

Terrible terrible roads down there.

Rusky rusky

jonnythefox wrote: »

Terrible terrible roads down there.

It’s a beautiful drive on a sunny day, but it def challenges your vestibular system. It has effing awful road surface, so much so that our 2 months old baby couldn’t stay asleep from all the bumps. And this road is a part of the west Atlantic way! Poor unsuspecting tourists:)

KCross

Its not scientific but its close enough. Seems to manage close to a 7sec flat 0-100 time as long as you are in Comfort or Sport mode.

10s to 120km/h and 17s to 160km/h... not to be tried on the way to Clonakilty!
80-120km/h took 5s

eagerv

Finished work this evening at about 6 and went to car for the short trip home.
Tired and hungry after a busy 10 hours.



Blipped car, but nothing happened. Not the end of the world, obviously flat fob battery. Has happened to me before on other cars with keyless start. Obviously though shouldn't happen on a 6 day old car.


Took key out of fob and unlocked drivers door manually without any problem. But wouldn't allow me to drive. Message came up above speedo "Key not detected. Hold key next to intended surface. Consult vehicle wallet." Tried every obvious point in car, but no luck.



Assumed wallet means manual, which by now with light starting to fail I couldn't read the tiny print. So back into work to great hilarity from my work mates, I was even offered a 22 yr old Toyota to get home without all these fancy complicated gizmos.:D


Read the manual for ages to try and find out where to hold the key or fob so as to enable the immobiliser. But no luck, nearest was page 71 which tells you how to get into car, but not how to drive it..


Accepted lift home to get spare key, back to car and all worked fine as expected. Back home not too long ago, googled how to drive VW with flat key fob battery but each model appears to have a different way of enabling driving. And VW don't appear to have told us how to do it in the ID.3. Or if they have, I couldn't find it.



Just as addition to my problems I decided to put a new battery in my Fob. I have a pack of round flat batteries of different sizes. Carefully opened fob as per manual not wanting to force or damage it. Opened easily, but all the spring bits for the key holding mechanism flew out. Eventually got it all back with surgical tweezers having to open the working fob even more gently to see where the bits went.


Of course the battery size would be the only one I don't have in my pack, have to wait until tomorrow to buy the correct size.


Will be on to VW in morning, could be very awkward if I had been far away from home.

jonnythefox

eagerv wrote: »

Finished work this evening at about 6 and went to car for the short trip home.
Tired and hungry after a busy 10 hours.



Blipped car, but nothing happened. Not the end of the world, obviously flat fob battery. Has happened to me before on other cars with keyless start. Obviously though shouldn't happen on a 6 day old car.


Took key out of fob and unlocked drivers door manually without any problem. But wouldn't allow me to drive. Message came up above speedo "Key not detected. Hold key next to intended surface. Consult vehicle wallet." Tried every obvious point in car, but no luck.



Assumed wallet means manual, which by now with light starting to fail I couldn't read the tiny print. So back into work to great hilarity from my work mates, I was even offered a 22 yr old Toyota to get home without all these fancy complicated gizmos.:D


Read the manual for ages to try and find out where to hold the key or fob so as to enable the immobiliser. But no luck, nearest was page 71 which tells you how to get into car, but not how to drive it..


Accepted lift home to get spare key, back to car and all worked fine as expected. Back home not too long ago, googled how to drive VW with flat key fob battery but each model appears to have a different way of enabling driving. And VW don't appear to have told us how to do it in the ID.3. Or if they have, I couldn't find it.



Just as addition to my problems I decided to put a new battery in my Fob. I have a pack of round flat batteries of different sizes. Carefully opened fob as per manual not wanting to force or damage it. Opened easily, but all the spring bits for the key holding mechanism flew out. Eventually got it all back with surgical tweezers having to open the working fob even more gently to see where the bits went.


Of course the battery size would be the only one I don't have in my pack, have to wait until tomorrow to buy the correct size.


Will be on to VW in morning, could be very awkward if I had been far away from home.

Sounds like a bad experience. To link the key to the car you need to place it in the cup holder. The bottom of the cup holder has a key icon.

heron_joe

cruisey1987 wrote: »

Probably 3 to 3.5 hours assuming you're charging at 11kW all the way

I don't think anyone has tested it, but you can probably maintain the 11kW above 90%, since the DC charging tests seemed to be pulling 25kW almost to 100%

Thanks to everyone for the replies on the charging time Wasn’t sure what to factor in for losses etc.

L-M

It’s in the cup holder just under the radio there’s a picture of a key there!)

Pity it happened, they should probably start replacing those key batteries on PDI

eagerv

I should have come on here first:) Thanks for that.
Is that in the manual?

L-M

eagerv wrote: »

I should have come on here first:) Thanks for that.
Is that in the manual?

I don’t know I just happened to see it the other morning.

eagerv

Just went out to see if car would work putting the dud fob into front cup holder. Yes worked fine. But at night, even with the bright LED internal lights, I could not see the key icon. I could feel something alright.
VW should make it clear to all owners in the manual, I tried the fob everywhere except there!

Irishjg

That’s a very handy thing to know, just goes to show how much useful info can be stared on these forums. BTW how does the car know the dead fob is in the holder ? Is there some kind of chip or reader in the fob that doesn’t require any battery power.

DaveyDave

Don't break my heart with the prices of non-1st models €41k is pushing it for my budget.

Rusky rusky

Have anyone tried to make a phone call using the “favourite” contacts on the 3rd screen? Mine wouldn’t work today. Another gremlin?

eagerv

Rusky rusky wrote: »

Have anyone tried to make a phone call using the “favourite” contacts on the 3rd screen? Mine wouldn’t work today. Another gremlin?

Yes, mine seems to be working I have that and radio stuff on my second screen. Even the gesture control now seems to be working, wasn't at first even though I had the box ticked.
Nothing seems to work smoothly though for the first minute or so of driving, seems to take quite a while to boot up correctly.

L-M

DaveyDave wrote: »

Don't break my heart with the prices of non-1st models €41k is pushing it for my budget.

Oh you’ll get them from 33k upwards.

TitianGerm

L-M wrote: »

Oh you’ll get them from 33k upwards.

Is the small battery base model coming in under 30K?

L-M

TitianGerm wrote: »

Is the small battery base model coming in under 30K?

Yeah but from the middle of next year. I ass-ume it’ll be 29,995 or something

eagerv

eagerv wrote: »

Blipped car, but nothing happened. Not the end of the world, obviously flat fob battery. Has happened to me before on other cars with keyless start. Obviously though shouldn't happen on a 6 day old car.


Took key out of fob and unlocked drivers door manually without any problem. But wouldn't allow me to drive. Message came up above speedo "Key not detected. Hold key next to intended surface. Consult vehicle wallet." Tried every obvious point in car, but no luck.





Read the manual for ages to try and find out where to hold the key or fob so as to enable the immobiliser. But no luck, nearest was page 71 which tells you how to get into car, but not how to drive it..

In relation to my post last night, I eventually found in the manual how to start car with a flat battery in fob.


It's page 131 "Electronic Immobiliser Troubleshooting".

They show pic of rear cup holder, but it should be front cup holder.

alfa_aficionado

Has anyone increased the % SOC they're charging to?

VW suggest that restricting it to 80% is best for battery life but I'm thinking of changing it to 90%. Can't see how this would make a huge difference in the longterm given that there's already spare capacity not accounted for (ie this is probably at least a 62-64kWh battery)

drunkmonkey

alfa_aficionado wrote: »

Has anyone increased the % SOC they're charging to?

VW suggest that restricting it to 80% is best for battery life but I'm thinking of changing it to 90%. Can't see how this would make a huge difference in the longterm given that there's already spare capacity not accounted for (ie this is probably at least a 62-64kWh battery)

My intention is to charge to 100%, I don't really understand why their recommending only to 80%. VW have put a buffer in there so when you charge to 100% your not charging to 100% of the battery capacity, I'd guess this is to allow themselves lee way to reduce battery warranty claims.

KCross

drunkmonkey wrote: »

My intention is to charge to 100%, I don't really understand why their recommending only to 80%. VW have put a buffer in there so when you charge to 100% your not charging to 100% of the battery capacity, I'd guess this is to allow themselves lee way to reduce battery warranty claims.

Tesla also recommend not charging to 100%. Other OEM's also give the same recommendation so this isnt a VW thing.

The ID.3 1st does have a buffer (4kWh... 58kWh usable from 62kWh gross), as do all OEM's, but it is still better for every Li-ion battery to sit between 20-80% for its life. Its hard to quantify how long of a difference it will make over the cars lifetime. Maybe the battery lasts 20yrs instead of 15... who knows, its too early in the EV transition to say with any accuracy.

If you only have the car for a few years and dont care about how long its life is then charging to 100% will be fine for you.... just dont let the car stitting at 100% while you go on a 2 week holiday.

If on the other hand you rarely need the cars full range then charging it to 80% is better for the battery and doesnt impact your life, so why not.

alfa_aficionado

KCross wrote: »

Tesla also recommend not charging to 100%. Other OEM's also give the same recommendation so this isnt a VW thing.

The ID.3 1st does have a buffer (4kWh... 58kWh usable from 62kWh gross), as do all OEM's, but it is still better for every Li-ion battery to sit between 20-80% for its life. Its hard to quantify how long of a difference it will make over the cars lifetime. Maybe the battery lasts 20yrs instead of 15... who knows, its too early in the EV transition to say with any accuracy.

Difficult to know... is there something specific to vehicle Li-ion batteries? Certainly don't take phones or laptops off charge at 80% (although leaving them plugged in continuously isn't good for their health).

Was this advice also given with the earlier BEVs? I've been charging my i3 (only 60Ah / 22kWh) to 100% at least once a day and it's now 5years old with no noticeable reduction in range. (tbf it was never outstanding anyway)

the_amazing_raisin

DaveyDave wrote: »

Don't break my heart with the prices of non-1st models €41k is pushing it for my budget.

The prices on the site are before VRT and SEAI grants, you have to go through the configuration and tick the boxes for both in the options to see the final price

the_amazing_raisin

alfa_aficionado wrote: »

Difficult to know... is there something specific to vehicle Li-ion batteries? Certainly don't take phones or laptops off charge at 80% (although leaving them plugged in continuously isn't good for their health).

Was this advice also given with the earlier BEVs? I've been charging my i3 (only 60Ah / 22kWh) to 100% at least once a day and it's now 5years old with no noticeable reduction in range. (tbf it was never outstanding anyway)

Basically the lifetime of Li-ion batteries is measured in discharge/recharge cycles. Avoiding charging the battery to full and discharging the battery to empty increases the number of cycles before the battery loses capacity. Here's some articles about the topic:



https://cleantechnica.com/2016/05/31/battery-lifetime-long-can-electric-vehicle-batteries-last/
https://cleantechnica.com/2018/08/26/the-secret-life-of-an-ev-battery/



Also, the batteries don't like sitting at 100% for a long time, if your car isn't being used much (due to lockdowns, etc) then it's better to discharge the battery down to 80%.


The top buffer allows for degradation to occur before eating into the usable capacity, and also allows the charge to charge at a fast rate up to 100%


Laptop and phone batteries would last longer if the charge was limited in a similar way. The reason they aren't is because the expected lifetime of a smartphone is 3 years, whereas a car is expected to last much longer


Now, the key thing you mentioned is that you're planning on charging to 100%. I'm gonna guess this is because you need more than 80% to cover your daily needs? If that is the case then it's better for you to charge to 100% (or 90% if that's feasible) since this avoids time (and money) spent recharging en route


If 80% will cover your daily drive however, then I'd recommend leaving the charge limiter at 80% and only charging to 100% before a long trip