VW ID.3

drunkmonkey

I don't remember reading that your meant to drive around in a duffle coat to get near the WLTP. The windows constantly fog so it's pretty much impossible to not have some kind of heating on unless it's a short journey.

Rob5156

drunkmonkey wrote: »

I don't remember reading that your meant to drive around in a duffle coat to get near the WLTP.

Never had an issue to see between 360 and 420km of range for the past 4 weeks in my car.

drunkmonkey

Rob5156 wrote: »

Never had an issue to see between 360 and 420km of range for the past 4 weeks in my car.

What kind of driving are you doing?, that's good range like eagerev...

eagerv

Lads, I reckon a lot of the problems are software related, my GOM etc seems to have settled down since the update a few weeks ago..


I used to notice that the trip would sometimes show quite high even when driving fairly gently and then settle down to a more normal kWh/100km after a while.


Yesterday did 162 km, about 90km on rural roads at about 70km/h average. And a trip last night of 62km (About 40km@ 80-100km/h and rest city driving). Total for day showed 14.4kWh/100km on trip. Certainly wasn't driving like Miss Daisy either, just normal keeping up with traffic. And heating on my usual temp of 18.5C.



Above included waiting outside University Hospital Waterford for about 1 hour with car powered up and heating on. Also had heating on when fast charging for about 20 mins, but that would have come from charger.


A screen shot of my app an hour ago..

the_amazing_raisin

drunkmonkey wrote: »

I don't remember reading that your meant to drive around in a duffle coat to get near the WLTP. The windows constantly fog so it's pretty much impossible to not have some kind of heating on unless it's a short journey.

Unfortunately WLTP doesn't take any sort of heating or cooling into account. EVs always suffer in winter as a result

Irishjg

cruisey1987 wrote: »

Unfortunately WLTP doesn't take any sort of heating or cooling into account. EVs always suffer in winter as a result

That’s true indeed for all vehicles, however some EV’s suffer greater range loss compared to others. The ID3 may be one that’s particularly affected. We don’t know yet of course because we haven’t had our winter. Temps are still autumnal ranging between 10 to 12 degrees for the moment. We’ll get a clearer picture once the ID3’s system upgrades are completed and we get through Dec, Jan and Feb.

eagerv

Irishjg wrote: »

That’s true indeed for all vehicles, however some EV’s suffer greater range loss compared to others. The ID3 may be one that’s particularly affected. We don’t know yet of course because we haven’t had our winter. Temps are still autumnal ranging between 10 to 12 degrees for the moment. We’ll get a clearer picture once the ID3’s system upgrades are completed and we get through Dec, Jan and Feb.

I thought(Remember reading somewhere) the ID.3 had some sort of heat scavenging system? I find that the ID.3 heating (On the few cooler days) is not much less efficient than our Ioniq which has a heat pump. But trips so far for me with the ID.3 have been relatively short, not much more than 80km each way. Only doing essential driving, looking forward to a few Dublin runs which are long overdue, but not essential. When lockdown over hopefully will give me better figures to work on in colder weather.

TitianGerm

If I'm charging from 35%-80% and the car is estimating 6 hours 50 minutes to do that does that mean my car is charging around 3.5kw/h?

eagerv

TitianGerm wrote: »

If I'm charging from 35%-80% and the car is estimating 6 hours 50 minutes to do that does that mean my car is charging around 3.5kw/h?

Yes, looks like it (3.82kW)

TitianGerm

eagerv wrote: »

Yes, looks like it

It's only the second time I've charged at home so I'm thinking it could be something to do with the charger install.

Might have to get the electrician back out to look.

eagerv

TitianGerm wrote: »

It's only the second time I've charged at home so I'm thinking it could be something to do with the charger install.

Might have to get the electrician back out to look.

You did say yours was tethered, didn't you? Is there any set up on your charger?

TitianGerm

eagerv wrote: »

You did say yours was tethered, didn't you? Is there any set up on your charger?

Yep tethered EO Mini.

Set up?

I've posted a question over in the Home Charge Point thread so as not to derail here.

the_amazing_raisin

TitianGerm wrote: »

Yep tethered EO Mini.

Set up?

I've posted a question over in the Home Charge Point thread so as not to derail here.

The charger might be set at a lower current setting, that'll reduce the charging speed.

Instructions to check
https://www.eocharging.com/s/EO-Mini-Current-switch-values-r3f7.pdf

TitianGerm

cruisey1987 wrote: »

The charger might be set at a lower current setting, that'll reduce the charging speed.

Instructions to check
https://www.eocharging.com/s/EO-Mini-Current-switch-values-r3f7.pdf

Surely your allowed to open the front cover and check that yourself are you?

Cyrus

Rob5156 wrote: »

Never had an issue to see between 360 and 420km of range for the past 4 weeks in my car.

Forget what the car shows have you actually achieved that range ?

the_amazing_raisin

TitianGerm wrote: »

Surely your allowed to open the front cover and check that yourself are you?

It's up to you what you feel comfortable doing. Just make sure the breaker is off and it's unplugged from the car and it should be safe enough.

If you still manage to electrocute yourself after that then I'd probably say the electrician did a pretty poor job installing it

Irishjg

If the cable running from your main board to the charger is less than 6sq you can’t get 32a on a single phase supply to achieve 7kw. Smaller cable cannot carry that current. As I said many pages back advising you to check the cable size going from the main board feeding the charger.

TitianGerm

Irishjg wrote: »

If the cable running from your main board to the charger is less than 6sq you can’t get 32a on a single phase supply to achieve 7kw. Smaller cable cannot carry that current. As I said many pages back advising you to check the cable size going from the main board feeding the charger.

Sorry I actually got a photo of the cable and forgot to post it.

Not sure if you can make anything out on this?

Irishjg

Cheers TitianGerm. Hard to be sure from the pic but the larger cable certainly could be 3x6. If you check along the length of it every meter or so the cable size will actually be printed or embossed on it. I’ll try post a pic of what it should look like.

Irishjg

https://www.efixx.co.uk/Cable%20sheath%20marking.jpg

Something like that. Also check that the rotary isolator switch that was installed is also rated minimum 32amp. It should be printed on it.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61aViX6udfL._AC_SX679_.jpg

TitianGerm

Irishjg wrote: »

Cheers TitianGerm. Hard to be sure from the pic but the larger cable certainly could be 3x6. If you check along the length of it every meter or so the cable size will actually be printed or embossed on it. I’ll try post a pic of what it should look like.

The cable was run through a black flexible pipe under ground about 30 feet and then connected to the charger. I'll see if I can see any writing on the cable where it connects to the EO Mini tomorrow in the daylight.

I'll look at the switch as well.

the_amazing_raisin

TitianGerm wrote: »

The cable was run through a black flexible pipe under ground about 30 feet and then connected to the charger. I'll see if I can see any writing on the cable where it connects to the EO Mini tomorrow in the daylight.

I'll look at the switch as well.

Yeah I wouldn't go changing the switch position, if it's set to a lower current then it might be for a good reason.

I'd just check it for now to see if that is the issue

TitianGerm

cruisey1987 wrote: »

Yeah I wouldn't go changing the switch position, if it's set to a lower current then it might be for a good reason.

I'd just check it for now to see if that is the issue

I've added photos in the charger thread so going to post over there rather than here so I don't derail any further.

Silent Running

Quick question for current owners.

To play media from external storage like a thumb drive etc., can it be plugged in to any of the USB C sockets or is it via Bluetooth only?

I presume there is no storage built into the infotainment.

Thanks.

rocketspocket

Silent Running wrote: »

Quick question for current owners.

To play media from external storage like a thumb drive etc., can it be plugged in to any of the USB C sockets or is it via Bluetooth only?

I presume there is no storage built into the infotainment.

Thanks.

Never tried it as use bt but I believe it's only 1 of the 2 front usbc supports data. There was someone posted on this forum a month back the schematics when we were talking about retro fitting a wireless phone charger..

charlieIRL

eagerv wrote: »

I personally don't think it's worth the money, depends really if you need the maximum range in Winter which I don't.


From crude tests I have done, the heater appears to use about 2kWh/100km. That is to raise the temperature by about 10C. It has been less lately, with temperatures quite high for almost mid November. I like the car about 18.5C, warm enough for me.. OK, if weather gets really cold I am sure it will use more than 2kWh/100km.



I don't leave house till the sun is well up (If we have sun:)) so don't suffer from frosty mornings usually. And winters aren't usually that bad here.. In just over a month the days will be getting longer again. Roll on...



At 7c/kWh for most of my charging, I would have to drive millions of km in winter to pay for a heat pump. But if it was included in car I wouldn't say no..



Also, don't heat pumps use similar power to non heat pumps if your trips are very short? I suppose the best efficiency is pre heating your car before leaving.

Sorry for going back a few pages but for someone heading into my second winter in an EV that doesn't have a heat pump i have to say i really regret not paying extra for one, using the heater absolutely annihilates the range on my eGolf. I pre-heat the car before the school / work run but once temps go below 10 degrees you will need some heating on. Go below 10 degrees and winter my range drops nearly 90kms.

Cyrus

preheating also requires you to have the car plugged in aswell surely? otherwise you are still using the battery preheating right?

charlieIRL

Cyrus wrote: »

preheating also requires you to have the car plugged in aswell surely? otherwise you are still using the battery preheating right?

you can pre-heat on battery power but I always do it when the car is plugged in therefore using electricity to heat it.

Mickeroo

Cyrus wrote: »

preheating also requires you to have the car plugged in aswell surely? otherwise you are still using the battery preheating right?

Depends on the car. My ioniq needs to be plugged in to preheat but I know leafs (leaves?) can preheat without it I'm pretty sure. not sure what the set up is with an ID 3.

Rusky rusky

Mickeroo wrote: »

Depends on the car. My ioniq needs to be plugged in to preheat but I know leafs (leaves?) can preheat without it I'm pretty sure. not sure what the set up is with an ID 3.

ID.3 can be preheated without plugging in.